PPN
TopGreen X-Max Representative
Since it's a 510 dry herb atty he can post here, I choose to go simple but I dig to see more sophisticated builds!
510 DIY dry herb vape
- Thread starter PPN
- Start date
mikolmarakas
Active Member
Hi guys. After reading all this I like to say also about my experience from my 510 dry herb attachment. After stop smoking and start vaping liquid's I was not like anymore to smoke my favourite herb and my favourite pipes tobacco. I read about dry herb vaping buy some cheap vaporiser that smell like plastic the most of the time. I saw splinter, steampod and dreamwoog glow and I thought that I have almost all the equipment to build something similar. So I took my drill and start working. It was take a bit of research but believe me it's working fine. A bit of problem is the temperature control for me as well not in my eleaf invoke mod because with the Arctic fox everything is working great, but with my dna 75 mod . Sometimes is working fine and sometimes not at all. I use geekvape tsunami atomisers with staggered fused Clapton ss316l and they give a lot of heat with almost not glowing. I will be grateful for any help I can get . All the best to you guys. Thanks for everything.
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mikolmarakas
Active Member
Hello and thanks for answering. Yes my friend. Locked or unlocked is exactly the same. After a message I sent to the DNA company they answer that my wire is too complicated to have good results with TC. The point is that is doing the same even with just a simple ss316 22ga wire. So I just have it as a spare mod for power control and that is so pity for a dna.
mikolmarakas
Active Member
I use the same atomiser and the same wire in both mods. The dna is the jack vapor75 . The problem is that sometimes is working Great start with 0,58 ohs and start counting temperature until the limit I put. After without changing anything maybe it will start in different ohm's that keeps changing and the mod say off and the wire start glowing without to stop. Is very strange because its happening almost 50-50. Sometimes working fine and sometimes not at all. I will understand it if not working at all . But that's very strange. I also tried very simple single coil wire ss316 . Does the same. Thanks for trying to help
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Maybe you got a dodgy soldering job under your 510 port? Could explain the varying resistance reading. If you can, open your mod and look for cracks or cold joints. Could be a bad contact with the 510 center pin too.
Most of my weird issues were solved by forcing a resistance lock in escribe, but you said you already tried that.
Most of my weird issues were solved by forcing a resistance lock in escribe, but you said you already tried that.
mikolmarakas
Active Member
I will check that too Kerozen and let you know. Thanks allot.
I agree wholeheartedly with these DIY adventures. The 510 mods are the best. End of story.
However, I honestly gave up on using TC with my Project. I've tried many mods and some work OK but find myself always fiddling. I love my latest mod which is a Vapefly Brunhilde SBS. The widest 25mm SBS I found and fits the Project perfectly. The 21700 battery is just right for a full day of vaping for me. 6-7 bowls + my trusty DIY vape pen works out well for me. The Vapefly works with my project in TC Ti mode in the lowest temperature settings or in SS mode in the highest temp settings. No programmable options. However, the same consistency problem as other mods. Seems to act differently every time you change the battery. Likely the reading of resistance is different each time. Regardless, back to fiddling.
The solution is what @PPN has been doing. I now just use power mode around 34 watts and control the temp with inhaling speed. No-fuss and no fiddling. Just fill and get high.
As for those hot spots, I added a modded stainless steel key ring. It took me a while to find 100% SS as most keyrings are made of unknown metals and should not go into the vapor path. I tested these ones by heating one over and over and checked that it would still wipe clean and have no signs of off-gassing. Come out as smooth as new so I think this is good SS. Anyway, be very careful what goes into the vapor path.
So I bend it so it will go under and around the outside of the heater screen and then goes through the screen with a finger that comes through the screen on an angle such that when I twist the bowl, the goods get stirred. Since the bowl gets hot, I added more Orings to the outside to make the twisting easier on the fingers. I found I have to reduce the load to about 60-70% in filling the bowl. Still lasts a long time.
This is still my go-to vape after a few years now without any needed maintenance. I just haven't seen any on-demand unit this works so well with minimum maintenance.
However, I honestly gave up on using TC with my Project. I've tried many mods and some work OK but find myself always fiddling. I love my latest mod which is a Vapefly Brunhilde SBS. The widest 25mm SBS I found and fits the Project perfectly. The 21700 battery is just right for a full day of vaping for me. 6-7 bowls + my trusty DIY vape pen works out well for me. The Vapefly works with my project in TC Ti mode in the lowest temperature settings or in SS mode in the highest temp settings. No programmable options. However, the same consistency problem as other mods. Seems to act differently every time you change the battery. Likely the reading of resistance is different each time. Regardless, back to fiddling.
The solution is what @PPN has been doing. I now just use power mode around 34 watts and control the temp with inhaling speed. No-fuss and no fiddling. Just fill and get high.
As for those hot spots, I added a modded stainless steel key ring. It took me a while to find 100% SS as most keyrings are made of unknown metals and should not go into the vapor path. I tested these ones by heating one over and over and checked that it would still wipe clean and have no signs of off-gassing. Come out as smooth as new so I think this is good SS. Anyway, be very careful what goes into the vapor path.
So I bend it so it will go under and around the outside of the heater screen and then goes through the screen with a finger that comes through the screen on an angle such that when I twist the bowl, the goods get stirred. Since the bowl gets hot, I added more Orings to the outside to make the twisting easier on the fingers. I found I have to reduce the load to about 60-70% in filling the bowl. Still lasts a long time.
This is still my go-to vape after a few years now without any needed maintenance. I just haven't seen any on-demand unit this works so well with minimum maintenance.
mikolmarakas
Active Member
Hi guy's and thanks allot Kerozen for your help because with your idea I finally fix my dna mod . The problem it was the little elastic that separates the 510 pin from the body of the mod. It come loose so sometimes was touching the body. I change it and now I have the most accurate temperature control I ever had. Probably that was the problem for the very first begging. Thanks again and all the best to all of you.
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kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
Hello people! Is this a good place to post 510 experiments? 
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
i'm trying to use the strange coil of the vandy vape Maze deck to make a small 510 dry herb.
First i sanded some holes on the deck to make te airflow go under the coil in a circular way. Then i did flip the "body" to use the native airflow system but with the new holes. And finally i attached a tm stem+capsule in the top of the unit (wich surprisingly fit xdd).
this is just a raw try. i would have to make a wood body and short stem to make it more effective and to have a better airflow (and make it smaller).
the coil is made of 316l SS. I find the same coils but made of kanthal from aspire, wich i will try
What do you think?
Edit: i find regular dual coil be more powerful but more inconsistente too. With this i have less power but more consistency. But all is about balance i guess
First i sanded some holes on the deck to make te airflow go under the coil in a circular way. Then i did flip the "body" to use the native airflow system but with the new holes. And finally i attached a tm stem+capsule in the top of the unit (wich surprisingly fit xdd).
this is just a raw try. i would have to make a wood body and short stem to make it more effective and to have a better airflow (and make it smaller).
the coil is made of 316l SS. I find the same coils but made of kanthal from aspire, wich i will try
What do you think?
Edit: i find regular dual coil be more powerful but more inconsistente too. With this i have less power but more consistency. But all is about balance i guess
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