PPN
Volute of Vapor
Hi Guys, I'm not sure a dedicaced thread is the best but I didn't know where to post my own creation.
I built an atty using the following parts:
- Quartz Quest V1 deck
- SS wire I got from @Pipes with the Project
- Wood heater cover I re-sized (Got it from @RastaVapa but it was a part of a butane vape!)
- S&B dosing capsules
- Mouthpieces (I have glass, wpa 18mm and silicone)
I choosed to use a S&B capsule cause my bet is to built a "no stirring needed" atty, here a pic of the beast on the top of my heavily used Evic:
(nb: the black silicone band is here to block fully or partially 2 tiny air inlets, their purpose is not to increase airflow but to add turbulences... not totally sure they work as expected, for now I tend to don't use them)
Another pic of the dismantled atty, here I used the silicone mp which is my favourite cause it reduce the airflow slightly and it fits directly in any 14mm joints.
As you can see I didn't tried to build a special coil but only build 2 resistances in an easy shape, initially it was a 0.18ohm coil but now it reads 0.23 usually, I have to tighten the screws but it looks like one is not functionning properly... Never had success in TC mod, first it took ages to heat and now it shutt off in power mode directly (I can't see any short). So I use it in power mode with great success at 25-28w, coil get a faint glow after 8s of power activation but without air moving around it. I pre-heat myself with a 3-4s pre-heat and take 10s draw (sometime I add a few seconds if I want more Oomph. The first hit is usually no vapor except if you run 2 full cycles but after that I get a great vapor production.
Initially I inserted 2 fine mesh screens in both ends of the S&B caps, one to act as a filter and another front of the heat in order to avoid hot spots, I removed finally the last one cause it robbed too much heat and reduced vapor production although I got a perfect abv with. Without this screen I can get hot spot if I want very big vapor and If I not rotate a few times the wood heater cover which contains the caps. Abv comes out a bit darker on the center but well vaped on all the thickness of the caps.
The issues I got are the TC issue I can solve with a bit more of reading here or maybe building another coil and the capsule who can fall on the heating element, usually it stucks in the wood body and stay it very well, I even need to take off the silicone mp in order to push it out with a tool. But sometime it fall on the heating element without I'm noticing it cause this is not causing any combustion issue or shorts but I don't think it's healthy to get aluminium in contact with a heated coil. I have to think about that issue even if it happens rarely.
I'll try to post a pic to show vapor production and abv. I always think I scortched my load in regard with the vapor production but when I open the caps I see it's still very light in color, very big vapor, a water tool is required sometimes.
More to come
Mod note: feel free to move this thread in the appropriate thread if it exists, thanks to everybody!
I built an atty using the following parts:
- Quartz Quest V1 deck
- SS wire I got from @Pipes with the Project
- Wood heater cover I re-sized (Got it from @RastaVapa but it was a part of a butane vape!)
- S&B dosing capsules
- Mouthpieces (I have glass, wpa 18mm and silicone)
I choosed to use a S&B capsule cause my bet is to built a "no stirring needed" atty, here a pic of the beast on the top of my heavily used Evic:
(nb: the black silicone band is here to block fully or partially 2 tiny air inlets, their purpose is not to increase airflow but to add turbulences... not totally sure they work as expected, for now I tend to don't use them)
Another pic of the dismantled atty, here I used the silicone mp which is my favourite cause it reduce the airflow slightly and it fits directly in any 14mm joints.
As you can see I didn't tried to build a special coil but only build 2 resistances in an easy shape, initially it was a 0.18ohm coil but now it reads 0.23 usually, I have to tighten the screws but it looks like one is not functionning properly... Never had success in TC mod, first it took ages to heat and now it shutt off in power mode directly (I can't see any short). So I use it in power mode with great success at 25-28w, coil get a faint glow after 8s of power activation but without air moving around it. I pre-heat myself with a 3-4s pre-heat and take 10s draw (sometime I add a few seconds if I want more Oomph. The first hit is usually no vapor except if you run 2 full cycles but after that I get a great vapor production.
Initially I inserted 2 fine mesh screens in both ends of the S&B caps, one to act as a filter and another front of the heat in order to avoid hot spots, I removed finally the last one cause it robbed too much heat and reduced vapor production although I got a perfect abv with. Without this screen I can get hot spot if I want very big vapor and If I not rotate a few times the wood heater cover which contains the caps. Abv comes out a bit darker on the center but well vaped on all the thickness of the caps.
The issues I got are the TC issue I can solve with a bit more of reading here or maybe building another coil and the capsule who can fall on the heating element, usually it stucks in the wood body and stay it very well, I even need to take off the silicone mp in order to push it out with a tool. But sometime it fall on the heating element without I'm noticing it cause this is not causing any combustion issue or shorts but I don't think it's healthy to get aluminium in contact with a heated coil. I have to think about that issue even if it happens rarely.
I'll try to post a pic to show vapor production and abv. I always think I scortched my load in regard with the vapor production but when I open the caps I see it's still very light in color, very big vapor, a water tool is required sometimes.
More to come
Mod note: feel free to move this thread in the appropriate thread if it exists, thanks to everybody!
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