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both ash catchers have a passthru. the choice is dropdown or not.

in my experience the bubble trap stuff is very piece specific. when i first got my blue bubbletrap stuff it looked kind of like plain cobalt blue. I love that color but was disappointed that it didn't look like the photos in the listing. I found out to my surprise that viewing with a flashlight...

Thank you! I've just found a new way to make art with the things I already have so I'm having a real blast with it all! Here is one with the ZX on top of the Funkler, this is the usual daily setup if I'm using water: https://streamable.com/6w9uv3

Hi! I was going to Verde Natural but it seems to have closed down. Today I went to Seed & Smith because i like the idea of being able to buy cuttings of strains I like. They are hydroponic where Verde did the living soil thing. I eat mostly organic food so I tend to value things on the safer end...

Hiya! I made a rip vid with my ZX and a new bubbler i just got :) https://streamable.com/2h7kmh

My ZX and Hornet continue to be my daily drivers as shown in the current state of my 1'x2' vaping area. I built myself a conduction station for the next stage of my tolerance experiments, but recently i seem to have taken a hard turn towards convection and sativas. I've been working on mastering...

i just pressed it out with a stick or something. the silicone doesn't always come with it but it comes out easily too

i have always heard back quickly via email and you need to run everything through tm anyway. at their instructions you would send it into vgoodiez for us service

Here is a pic of the blue bubbletrap version: I might be reading the vapor path wrong but it doesn't seem like there is any recycling in this design? Regarding the joint size I recently standardized on 14mm because it seems like a lot of the 18mm bowl designs are for larger loads than i want...

I leave my t1 in the half bowl position for microdosing and my t2 in the full bowl position for bigger days and social vaping. I never had any complaints about the roast in the half bowl position and assumed most of the improvements were to get a more even roast in the full bowl position. What...

and be made of crystallized titanium!

did it work for you from the very first time? i thought i saw in this thread that maybe folks need to use a real screwdriver until it breaks in a little?

does you meter take time into account and report in Ah rather than A? or do you have to time the hits yourself and do the math? Any decent molicel can easily handle 10A, the question is if a heatup takes say 5 seconds with the inductor, then how many amp hours would cover 50 heatups or whatever...

Oh I suppose thats true, one could move the bms to the tool instead of the pack, but like you said then people could use bare cells unless they make proprietary packs for "safety"

I believe every battery pack that is composed of multiple cells has a bms. probably the cheapest one that the manufacturer could find but still. Its not much of an expense and is the reason all the bare cells say not for vaping lol

oh that is nice and compact! if you can build in some strain relief a little heatshrink would make it a nice cable when you are all done. if you add an XT connector after the rheostat you could put a meter in there to tune the rheostat and then just leave it minimal. but like i said, step 0 is...

i just got a mh sleeve in the mail and the feel of the leather is excellent! i have had full grain leather products before that felt dry and stiff. I learned from a maker the importance of the tanning process, The horween chromexcel stuff I have feels both supple and waxed at the same time and...

Maybe something like this could work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5LN9262?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 This is a cheapie amazon usb-pd charger for milwaukee m18 batteries that I bought to charge the batteries on the road. If something similar exists for OP's batteries perhaps...

oh thats smart! so the 40V battery output connects to basically a glorified rheostat which connects directly to the lighter head! What put me off the inductor was the need to have a giant box on my desk. Not to drift too far off topic but then it should be possible to just buy the lighter head...

I checked out the product page for the inductor. it looks like the power input to the VVPS is AC. Is the Idea to skip the VVPS? Or to use an inverter to convert battery DC to AC for the VVPS which then converts it back to DC?