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[UPDATE] v.1.0.1 Change-log: (*) Substituted 18F-18F for the base and 18M-18M for the middle GonGs. (Previously 18M-18F both) Virtually no effect, other than some looseness at connection between coconut and cork-base. Reason being different circumferences of different GonGs at their middle...

Before this gets deleted or ignored for the good, are there any mold-able high temp (medical or food grade) silicone recipe? I am on search for mold-able silicone for a diy 'foreskin restorer' project, if there are high temp ones would rather search for them. viva l'intactism

Well, are they up to the task near 200C? Or do we have special kind of silicone for that specific temperature range? They could probably survive at least 100C. They might come intelligibly handy if endurance is well. If has been answered before, drop a link message and report please. Sincerely!

Since it is revived from the afterlife anyway, I would like to propose a black body for such use, increasing juice from the laser: Even though it is mentioned simple resistors are more efficient and so on, one might want to isolate air path from electronics somewhat better(?). Then of course...

Greetings from ANKARA! This thread will serve as a showcase for my possible future vaporizers. First working design v1.0.0 (codename: HaloNut) is below. First of all great thx to @Abysmal Vapor for the name and his thread "Halo-log" which have been my main inspiration. A collection 'might' be...

Just a simple thought, instead of 2 wires into the log, provide common ground - dimmer attached anode - and bare anode with a switch to alternate anodes(?) as you wish. if dimmer is left out bulb works full power. All the bulky stuff still on desk-top. Might be pure fantasy though, depends on...

I am letting some friends try design v.0.9.0 (above). I've recently come across "Vandy Vape 316L SS" mesh and wire supplies, won't advertise any site here, yet these are the only online 316L I've found so far. Ordered 200 mesh and 0.9mm wire. 30 business days :\

I built a prototype which will be upgraded to v1.0.0 when first successful vaping occurs. Design is below, actually coconut is not necessary yet is easy and cool to implement, thx @Abysmal Vapor (also for the name). A tutorial and FreeCAD file to be uploaded in separate thread. From there on...

The steel got hot and even yellowed from the heat previously. I have another 19F-19M for the job, however can't find a mortar long enough I believe. Till weekend will checkout coconuts for sure. I've ordered dimmer months ago yet did not arrive, half the things I order from AliExpress end up...

I have obtained a mortar (pestle maker - not weapon), cut some excess part from bottom by hand and now have a design in mind (see pic below). Coloring is arbitrary, yet a lovely log with probable design flows is modeled in FreeCAD v0.17 (final sketch will be uploaded as FOSS). I need to know...

That is nice to hear than experience. That I might try. My intention is to form a glass air path (except for screen and SS leads) with reflector surrounding it first, and cover with good old wood afterwards to not burn myself. That said, I want this prototype to be do-able with [ Bauhaus + Lab...

Been a while, I now have a prototype which can reach 200 C provided there is some insulation (tried socks so far, they've burned). 35W lamp without a dimmer does not sustain enough heat for draws I believe. Will look into cylindrical steel shell, however the GonG adapters seems to be the real...

Could not edit previous. My bad again the Osram G9 type was also 230V, no wonder that thin metal at the lamp. Got a G4-12V-20W I know will cool down faster with draws, yet fits the groove perfectly, I'll find a way to fit G6.35 type later on. @blokenoname I meant the silver solder, not the...

@Abysmal Vapor I got the 3mm SS from OSTIM/Ankara, by going into a shop, because could not find any website to send in small quantities reliably. The notching (forking) of an end is easy but might need carving an helix too. I will add photos after I fit the lamp to them. I got a Philips...

Some news, firstly I am able to notch the 3mm SS with hobbist metal saw. And bought type G9 halogen bulb, which can fit 18mm female yet gets stuck at 18mm male. Maybe I should use tubes rather than gong connectors. And lastly, ordered thermo-couple, learned mosfets can be dimmers w/ arduino etc...

Got ss316 from organized industrial site in Ankara, 3metre-3mm for less than a USD. The store did not have any mesh though. Could not find any reliable website to buy from, in Turkey. I will experiment with saw and SS now (parantheses reserved for editing). Also 350-450 Celsius is a bit over my...

Received bubbler, gong adapters. Remains analog temperature control. Also bought 3mm ss316 today, yet can't make spirals, so either RoHS soldering or sawing off middle to fork the terminals. I wonder if Silver Solder in air path is safe. Even if it is it skyrockets the complexity, I can't find...

Late response sry, there is that for Solo 1: [ ] And I recently bought a knockoff from dhgate, not shipped yet. (Planning on using with Abysmal Vapor's Halo-log alike to be produced) [https://www.dhgate.com/product/mouthpiece-stem-water-bubbler-14mm-with-glass/393988277.html]

@Abysmal Vapor I will probably knockoff your design eventually, for personal use. But I haven't made up my mind on screens yet. I know there are circular, dome (like that Arizer on you've shown), and glass honeycomb screens. Why did you apt for dome though, isn't glass supposed to be more...

I can totally stand behind the 12v logic. Yet, aren't halogen bulbs weakened if contacted oils, etc; and ceramic G4 holders are not to be trusted IMO (as you mentioned unidentified metals and not so credible ceramic). I truly wonder if there is an insulator that could seal the glass-wood gap to...