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I messed about with my geekvape mod - have a scroll back in the thread - i just about got it working but with my mod having a 10 sec cut off was a hassle. TCR is good but is very hard to do with stainless steel and after some testing realised it doesnt give the correct temp of the glass tube...

I have no housing around mine - it lives in a glass jar when not in use and i hold the top of the tube or the solid core copper wire on the side - once in a while like, really only a few times, i touch the exposed coil briefly and not had any nasty burns or anything yet. Its pretty simple to...

A couple of months in and Im still using mine as my daily driver - not got around to doing much with batteries yet nor made another heater part with a smaller diameter tube. I have now got a nice routine going with it - i start off vaping some fresh material at about 170 not too much maybe...

The retailer I bought it from replaced it with a new unit - i suspect it is possible to repair as i think all that happened is it got too hot and the dial/variable resistor just died so if you can get a similar one and solder it on as a replacement but no idea of what part to get or how easy...

I started off from a different angle and ended up with something very similar to @Hippie Dickie I messed about with TCR and found stainless steel a hard one to a get the true temp with a mod - i also went with the max6675 and a mircocontroller to handle the pid/pwm and other control - been my...

If you can keep turning the temp like that then its broken - happened to my first one and had to get the whole tm2 replaced.

As far as i remember these just have a kanthal coil inside? If so could very easily be controlled by a pid just hook the coil up to a mosfet or solid state relay and the pwm output of a pid

Take a look at: https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/bakx-heating-principle-inspired-desktop-vape.54964/ there are a few ideas based around the heated tube

The pwm is connected to the mosfet breakout board which is optically isolated from the pico: https://protosupplies.com/product/lr7843-mosfet-control-module/ From the pico the pwm voltage is 3.3v and higher current/voltage side has 12v (it needs between 6-28v) so think all ok and just my...

I finally put it all into Box V2 Currently powered by 12v mains power brick but will look at batteries again. Whats in the box? So much neater and no soldering other than the mosfet / power part but thats part of the vape side of things. I see the setup as 2(3) different parts. 1. The...

Note to any one else who is pissing about with mosfets and killing them regularly - they dont like being shorted. I made a nice little arrangement of two of them really nice soldering job - most happy with my efforts when i was done. Wired it up and all looked ok - plugged into the heating...

I needed to do an order for some bits and spotted this little neopixel ring which looked like was the perfect diameter to sit on top of the tube so just couldn't resist getting one as they are pretty cheap and have pimped the tube. Glow effect: A chase effect: It starts at 150C at blue...

Well already got some ideas for V2 but am so happy with V1 and the lack of wires or fiddling. Minor update to the code in case anyone is using it with main.py on the pico - when booting up if you hold down dial or if you have a separate switch it will disable the watchdog (you should hear...

I have been using the box version of the setup a fair bit until for i cant remember how many times i had to re-solder on a wire after opening it up to plug in the usb cable - so moved back to the bread board version and again with the odd loose wire or knocking one out could occasionally need a...

After reading the unregulated thread i decided to give the setup a go with the pid set to 300 and just run it with the manual overide so is on demand rather than session. Worked well up to when i didnt realise how hot it was getting as i was using a water adaptor and needed two hands to hold it...

I saw this card and it made me think of this thread and what the wait was like

Sounds like the thermocouple is wired the wrong way round I suspect its a thermocouple based on the max6675 or similar See: https://protosupplies.com/product/max6675-thermocouple-temperature-module-2/ Module Connections When hooking up a thermocouple, the red lead of the thermocouple...

Looks very breakable especially if your prone to dropping stuff. Im not sure how compatible glass and accidents are.

Here you go the coil now has a nice glass or ceramic housing Current stem selection the big one gives about a 20 mins session and you can just dip it in and out of the tube so the only thing your holding is the stem.

Looks pretty rapid 270C! I can see why you need the water adaptor. Have you managed to combust it yet? FRiES as in fries the weed? I had an idea for a name for mine - Hot Hole - just dont put a finger in