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Your forgetting about the part of the vape before goes through the weed and gets vapour - ie the air intake when its cold - if drawing over hot electronics or other glue which has been heated by the heater?

Literally ordered some of those mini volt meters earlier today

@Flotsam thanks for the concern - i am keeping an eye on the min voltage after a session to make sure they dont drop too low - i have messed with these batteries a fair bit so have prior experience - also i am keeping a close eye on their temp as well...

Its ‎Uxcell - nichrome 80 I rekon for a really cheap version you could use some old toaster element. I havent got any hash or oil at the moment to try it with but suspect you could just pop some in the inner tube and let it come in direct contact with glass and once producing vapour just use...

@Hippie Dickie - my regulated one is using the 3mm nichrome and has been working well - thank you for putting me on to the nichrome. I have to adjust the pwm so it only run at 60% of what it would draw fully as my mains adaptor can only handle 10 amps. The 4mm resistance is so low it will...

Been testing a fair bit - has a nice heat profile - the heaters outer layer of glass keeps the heat in much better than my regulated versions current design - i will be upgrading the regulated one with this new heater as i managed to squeeze a thermocouple in between the tubes with the nichrome...

Inspired by work on the regulated version on this thread https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/bakx-heating-principle-inspired-desktop-vape.54964/ I was messing about with some test tubes and 4mm nichrome and came up with a very simple unregulated design which works very very well - took me under...

Check out https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/bakx-heating-principle-inspired-desktop-vape.54964/ for a pi pico micro python version

Do a search on the print maker Matsumoto Hoji he did lots of animal woodcuts - there are more fog/toad ones https://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p16028coll7/id/16367/rec/4 A few images down there is a guy smoking a pipe - he does look very happy and a bit of a stoner...

Maybe they will be delivered by

Yes my dial looked off center like that - can you move the dial bit about a little bit so its off center and touches the edge somewhere else?

I suspect your temp dial is broken - after using mine too much in beast mode what your describing with no heat on 6 and then too hot on 7 is similar to the symptoms mine showed. Eventually the dial just stopped working and you could rotate it past 0 or 10 and just keep turning round. I had to...

I have a pinecil soldering iron which is similar to the ts80 - i also have a few 510 soldering iron bits - the pinecil is great and could work but needs some kind of external power (perhaps just a battery with usb3 could work). The pinecil is not cheap and I wouldnt be too keen on vaping...

Well about a week ago i dropped it while using - annoyingly i managed to break a new 18mm j-hook, glass straw and yanked the thermocouple so it somehow shorted out. Been too busy to fix as the thermocouple is a pain to rewire with the element and get just right in the hole so its not too far...

@Postlark cheers - the main part of the project is pretty much done and proof on concept is working rather well. I would like to make some nice wooden body for it. Also i have various ideas for some different sized tubes with different arrangements of balls and potentially little holes in the...

Still using mine as my daily driver - but new update recently with some glass balls I added about an inch at the bottom of the tube and let them heat up for about a minute When i load the stem i leave about 1/2 inch at the bottom below the herb to allow some space. When you put the stem in...

This thread is a good read

If your talking about the coils for vape liquid or concentrates i would think they are a bit too short to be able to wrap around a tube as they have quite high resistance like kanthal I found the really thin stainless steel flat wire just about got the temps high enough but the nichrome really...

I think you will need a custom firmware to get it working with a mod - mine also gave me a too hot error and had to let it cool down before it would let me mess more. I gave up on using a mod/510 device with TCR and think the termocouple/pid solution is more accurate and think probably simpler too.

The TCR is basically the mod measuring the element's resistance change as it get hotter - it then compares that against the cold resistance temp when the element was initially installed - there is a lookup table for each element material type built into the mods firmware and from that it works...