If you have a revolve stem you could get the upgrade kit.
Or, they still have upgrade kits in stock in black and titanium, and still have the revolve gen 2 cooling units in black and rainbow - this is basically a tempest and the differences aren't worth worrying about.
They still have the heads...
Try closing the stem, leave airflow in the head open a little bit.
Maybe upping the temp will help, it's worth adjusting temp as battery level drops.
Try going up in 10c increments.
Run it until the time out message if head is cold.
For repeat bowls, heat until the 2nd marker and see how it is...
The sic are a good halfway house between the boro and zirc.
The Boro heat up really fast and can be quite aggressive, good for running through water.
The sic are good for quick punchy rips using it natively.
I like to have one with sic and one with zirc on the go.
Just remember to pay attention...
I got another wand adapter yesterday, it has a holographic look to it on one side....
It looks cool I think, is that just the type of material it's made from?
Will it last or will it fade away?
Never looked at the first ones that closely so no idea if they were like that to start with.
Also...
At this point of anyone in Edinburgh Scotland has issues with the he upgrade kit, give me a shout, I'd be happy to help out.
Appreciate that won't help most folk though...
No worries, you can still use it, I'd just screw on the indicator housing without the indicators fitted and start timing it and seeing how it goes.
If you had a wand you can easily do it, but agreed it will be trial and error with a torch.
I'd still be giving it a go though 😂
Hopefully it's...
I think sometimes when you buy something, and there's something about it that's really pissed you off, it can have a detrimental effect on your overall experience.
I get your stance on the sleeve, totally understand, but it's done and it was sent. The animals aren't killed to make tempest...
The Boro heat up super fast and aggressively, don't fill it to the top of the bowl, watch how hard you draw on it while you get used to it, I ended up going below the suggested temp on the manual for Boro.
They are the most punchy of the balls on offer.
A good option for glass pieces.
I much...
It says in the manual to stop heating one mark earlier so it is explained.
The 2 I have, both with updated parts, on reheats there are slight differences in when I remove them from the heat, one is just as the indicator has touched the third mark, the other is when the indicator is exactly on...
He really has done a great job of getting all the info in there, but also keeping it straightforward.
Yeah it's really handy, but it is a rough guide to start you off.
As an example, with the stainless 2.5mm balls, it says to start at 320c, I was trying the stainless for the first time at the...
Starting temp for Boro is 250°c/470°f
I was running my Boro at 240c and was getting good results with it, that temp suited my draw strength better.
Check the tempest manual and scroll down to the table where it tells you about different temps for different ball types...
I just think it adds a complication that isn't needed. But the flexibility of the device does lend itself to being used in all sorts of ways, so each to their own 🙂
If you leave the stem airflow as it is, leave the wand setting as it is, but change the head airflow on every bowl, you'll see how...
Leave the airflow in the head open a crack, airflow in the stem open a crack or closed.
Set wand to 300°c or Fahrenheit equivalent, run it on auto until the time out message and hit it.
As the batteries deplete, up the temp by 5-10° at a time, I generally don't go higher than 330c, unless I'm...
Full review from Lee at ttb. His method of removing from the heat and putting it back on feels more complicated than it needs to be in my opinion. But each to their own.
It's like an overly complicated Dyna ritual - just heat the sodding thing and hit it 🤣
His last video others felt he didn't...
Can you get in touch directly then?
Thread is supposed to be about using the device, not discussing your annoyance.
It just clogs the page up from the good/interesting/helpful stuff people actually came here to read.
No worries. I played with mine for a couple of days before I settled on that.
The stem is closed most of the time now.
I have sensitivity issues in my throat, always used the revolves at least half open or fully open, oddly enough even for me having the stem closed, doesn't really affect me...
Flow on the head open a crack, airflow on stem open a crack or closed, set wand to 320c and run on auto till time out, then blast away.
I usually up my temp on the wand as the batteries run down, I don't normally go above 335c.
Once the wand hits 1 bar, change or charge the cells.