It's no longer an issue, it only affected a certain batch batch or splinters from a few months back, anything new you buy from now on will not have this issue.
I think they changed the way the splinters are glued so that they're less likely to come unglued. I still avoid taking my Z of my mod while it's hot though.
Yeah I'm not a fan of the 3 battery design or the bronze (I think it looks horrible), but for that price I can't really complain much. And if a DNAc mod ever comes close to it in price then I'll just sell the wisemec and probably not lose any money.
I gave it a wax last night. It definitely feels nicer but it didn't seem to absorb as much of the wax as my unpainted tubo or my other solid wood vapes. So my guess is the paint partially seals the tubo, from what I remember the paint @funkyjunky uses is watered down acrylic so it makes sense...
The C chips give you access to the menu on the mod more easily than the older chips, this means you don't have to connect your mod to a computer to change settings. The C chips also give you the ability to use replay mode and are apparently more efficient but I'm not sure on that last bit.
@leveltree Guess I'll have to wax my painted tubo.:lol: I wasn't sure if the paint sealed the wood or not and I haven't had any cracking after over a year of near daily use.
The tubo firmware comes with the TCR set to 180, you don't need to change this as it is optimized for stainless steel. The only value you need to change it the tubo number, which is just your resistance. You can change it by going into the menu>coils>manage and then set the tubo value to your...
I know this is a late response but I was also concerned about my purpleheart vapes fading and did some research. UV rays are responsible for both giving purpleheart its vibrant color and it's eventual fade. Good luck though as beeswax filters out UV rays so a combination of keeping your vapes...
I use underbutter and dynawax to wax my wood vapes, but that's just because I have those, I'm sure that Edd's tnt butter will work no problem. I've also found that my tubo's don't need to be waxed as often as my solid wood units and I've never waxed my painted tubo as I don't think it would...
Boil some water in a kettle and hold the stem above the steam with some tongs. The heat/moisture will expand the wood and should let the glass slide right out. Make sure to dry the wood completely afterwards and wax it to add moisture back.
From my understanding the V1 and 2 are manufactured in China but assembled in the US for quality control until Ryan feels confident enough to move production entirely to China while he focuses on exotic models and other projects.
There you are, not sure if you can tell from the photo but I wrapped the adhesive side flush with the end other the joint once and them spiraled the paper up the joint to hold the paper in place better.
Sorry of the image is too big this is my first time posting an image here and I'm not very...
@Shit Snacks The adhesive used on rolling papers is gum arabic (aka sugar gum) and is completely nontoxic. I don't think you will need xl papers as the ones I use are more than long enough, although they are xl papers. I've tried putting the adhesive at the top and bottom of the joint and have...
I mentioned earlier in this thread that rolling papers work great for getting loose joints to fit tight, and the adhesive on them is meant to be inhaled so no health concerns there.
From my understanding artic fox has a slower ramp up time than the tubo firmware. The tubo firmware is also already set up with tcr for these stainless steel heaters, so there's no need to mess around with settings, simply input the resistance of the coil and select your tempertempe and you're...
The US (custom) version is $50 while the Chinese version is only 25. They both work great in the tubo, add lots of cooling without restricting airflow at all. The only real difference between the two is the thickness of the glass (the us version is a hair thicker) and the joint on the Chinese...