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i use borosilicate glassware for my vape and absolutely love it. however, @envyxoa question brought back memories of a discussion about spallation. so i asked copilot: explain for borosilicate glass. can thermal cycling up to 450°F cause spallation? Borosilicate glass is known for its low...

still Nordic Track skiing ... my feed (gotta love the AI) now is showing me a bit more VO2Max comments. saw a short clip of Peter Attia saying how longevity is ruled by VO2Max. i turned on my smart watch heart rate monitor to get my overnight low - and it is 50 at about 6 am not bragging...

now, some interesting new performance results ... i am thinking the cold solder joint has been there for a long, long time. now, i am getting about 20°F overshoot on warm up. and the temp climbs about 2 degrees with a strong inhale. haven't seen this since earlier units. looks like the PID...

wonky again ... so i did a deeper dive into the internals to really locate the problem ... sometimes, when looking at this 1.75" pcb though the magnifying light on my desk i swear it seems so much bigger - like the Tardis ... anyway, upon removing the nichrome80 ribbon coil one of the copper...

is that the manufacturer's battery? if it is 10v then that is only 3 amps - may not be enough to keep the heater temp constant. i really don't know - i have never used one - i thought i remembered it used LiFePO4 batteries, which i use, and they can put out 70 amps or 200+ watts. plus 1000s...

i appreciate the advice. that explains my problem, but there is no way i can eat that much food - like an extra 4 hamburgers per day. i have cronometer to track macro nutrients - nice app but kind of tedious to get setup - i need to use for a while and see what protein i am really getting.

i agree with you. since sept 2018 my diet has been spot on. no sugar. only complex carbs. healthy fats. maybe a little light on protein - but close to 70 grams per day. i am 6' and weigh 160 lbs. and maintain that with no problem. only drink well water. never-ish eat out - only to be...

one of my earliest prototypes used a button to control power to the coil - i think i used a car cigarette lighter coil. i found the current drain would eat the button. a cnc router is what i use now. after making several cubes per year by hand for a dozen years i finally standardized on a...

update time ... my cube was starting to act wonky (technical term - meaning some type of operator assistance (i.e. whack on side with knuckle) was needed for functional operation). so for the first time in several years i took it apart and found the copper connector holding one end of the...

i added some floor exercises to my strength training segment specifically to work on my abs. 6-pack by Christmas!! bookmarked some nice ab workouts on X and follow them. one i tried was kneel down on one knee, other foot flat on the floor, then reach/stretch up above the knee that's up then...

nichrome can come as wire (round) or ribbon (flat). i use nichrome80 ribbon to wrap around my oven tube. much better than nichrome60 in that it doesn't corrode. i use about 13" with resistance about 0.3 ohm per foot. i have to look it up but i think it is 1/8" wide by 0.01" thick (28 ga)...

i'm still thinking about price. it will include the vape, two 36" power cables, two 6" power cables, two battery packs, a 3amp charger - recharge a dead power pack in 60 minutes for 90 minute runtime. 6 bud vials, 6 draw tubes (it takes some experience to learn to not drop the glassware), 6...

agree ... i am more interested in consistency and stability than accuracy. the reading of 420°F is just a guide to let me know what to expect from the session.

ok, call me a fool but i found 1°F stability to be doable. i use a BBQ thermometer as a "fair witness" for the temp readout, measuring the hottest part of the heater. the middle of the bud vial hits this temperature in the first 5 seconds of the draw. the mighty has +/- 5°F temperature swing...

the pid control turned out to be very straight forward - once i found the MAX6675. i had tried a PWM controller i got on eBay but it used a potentiometer to control the setpoint. not only did the 3A current burn through the desired setting, but i couldn't provide enough mass to hold heat...

as Radwin shows with that diagram, the air flow is contaminate free - definitely not in the same environment as the electronics and not passing across the heating ribbon. the vial is inside the oven tube and isolated from the vape interior.

my DIY vape, The Herbal Cube (project name was Bud Toaster) is an only glass air path vaporizer. Air path is completely isolated. It is battery powered but too cumbersome to be considered "portable" - i say "mobile" - all gear fits in a leather case which is easy to take out to the balcony for...

thank-you for the pixs but i can't tell anything from them. i don't know what "D" means, but the wires are very heavy gauge for powering an LED. i have my LEDs soldered to my PCB. i hope to get back to working on my vape in the next week or 3. i have to relearn wtf i did after so much time...

i'm trying to settle into two days of exercise followed by one recovery day. so, one day doing lower body and leg stretches floor exercises (30 minutes) followed by my normal 30 minutes of aerobics on the Nordic Track (which, sadly, is only available on eBay now). next day for upper body on...

could the temperature sensor be out of position? do you have any internal photos or diagrams?