There should be no difference using the FET switch. You have not changed anything but values and oscillating frequency. Maybe a wiring slip up?
@Dick Emery, a box mod will not work as a power source as not true DC but rather a PWM, "Pulse Width Modulator" type source for driving heater elements...
This has been an ongoing quality issue with these drivers. They use the cheapest FETs or maybe even rejects from huge batches. I had many issues with them for the first few months as they would blow or have random firing issues. Very few are actually up to snuff. You notice the price change from...
Well, let's just say it's on a back burner that may be a while before I get back to it.
The Induction heater endeavor has taken up all my time these days and not giving me a breather. If/when things cool off there, I'll get back to the Projects. Until then. :ninja:
Yes, started to use peek insulators near the end. Nylon works fine if using normally. However, will deform if overheated or left on too long.
Here is the comparison between Nylon and Peek. It was actually the lower nylon insulator that caused a short on the peek side one. The peek never did fail.
Yes, I have. It's identical to the regular driver, except one less choke coil. This means that the work coil must have a center tap to function. Which would be an addition wire going halfway into the windings. The board itself is identical and in fact, one can rewire the normal board to be like...
Cool, thanks. It's a medical grade supply, which might have something to do with it. I found this article which explains a little bit about peak load applications and picking the right supply. Basically, some supplies are set to go into protection based more on heat build up rather then a...
I'm guessing the rating is not correct and/or very conservative. Keep in mind that our application is not a continuous drain and only 10-15 second bursts at most. If a protection circuit is not set at it's rating, then some over drawing of current is possible. However, if let on longer term...
Relays have contacts in them that do the switching, and with contacts, there is mechanical ware and voltage bounce. Old technology replaced by solid state mosFET switching.
Getting fancy are we... :cool: :tup:
I'd avoid using relays. Check this puppy out if you want to add a delay circuit. It also has provisions for the soft switch and nice display.
Good luck and have fun!
The booster was for driving the gates only. Low power. The main drive voltage isn't as important for it to oscillate.
Not really feasible to boost the drive voltage as would be a much bigger undertaking.
Getting into ecig mod power stuff now which is not a pure DC but rather pulsating DC and...
I'm afraid it's hit and miss. And all suppliers seem to get the bad stuff. Like I have said before, get extra FETs at the same time. Best you can do is look for a supplier which shows units with "QC PASSED" stickers affixed to the drivers. At least this should cut down on reversed diodes but...
Ensure you have the switch turned on to charge. Should be green when not charging and red while charging.
If you're having further difficulties, shoot me a PM. ;)
They almost always both go. I've never had good luck just changing one out. Regardless what they seem to measure. Usually turns into changing back and forth a few times before you say fuck it and change both at once with fresh ones... Taking the factory mounted ones off is easy compared to...
Bam, that'll do it in an instant. I have said this a few times now. Those blue connectors suck and should not be used for the work coil. For a connection you only get one crack at, solder is highly recommended. Even some sites that sell them recommend direct soldering. With no work coil there is...
Your getting a handle on it. Only thing off is that this BMS does not balance the cells. It does however, monitors each cell and will go into protection if too far off or if one cell gets too low ahead of the other cells. Generally they will balance themselves after a few cycles if all in the...