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Great idea for the growing pile of ABV I have sitting around. Question though; could you maybe draw on that ABV a little longer in the vape device to get more of the goodies out?

:) thanks FWIW; I get 1.15V across the power head of the V1.0 PA at full power plugged into a new launch box. The input reading to the converter is 10.6V at 2.8A so basically 30 watts; given maybe 80% efficiency including line losses puts us in the 24 watt neighborhood [guessing started] so...

Delivery of all that current explains why the head of the PA gets hot. Losses is simply a price they were willing to pay in the delivery of power. I'm thinking a highly flexible coax cable with a very short run at around 14ga will work wonders. Maybe even a 510 connection on the controller...

Thanks @OF The low voltage is the challenge. Agreed on the CC design.

In that case there is hope. MF sells only MAHA 2600 cells now which they call 'silvers'. No more Glyphs although no one explained why the site still says they are; https://www.magic-flight.com/club/accessories/battery-set Anyway, they will be sending a new pair of these MAHA cells. Still...

Not to worry @Vapenvy. I am from the Ni-Cad world of off-road racing. I know well about what you say. I have 6 cells now. 2 that are well 'worn'. And that does happened. I have 2 that really kick ass but they've vented; and I have 2 that came to me at zero volts. Not a trickle...

Too funny. Well, this is my only vape ATM. The PA is almost a must to get dark ABV out of it. Figured out the trick to combustion issues - remove power while drawing - just bake; shake; draw; bake shake draw... I'm well kitted out by now. Batteries are a real issue. Their glyph cells...

A reading on the v1.0 PA to the LB: ... okay, that's suppose to be an image :rolleyes: Imageview is a sanctioned site? Modnote: Edited to display image

And today I receive ceramic halogen sockets on the very same day a separate order for a halogen bulb comes in the mail. What could go wrong? ....right socket, wrong bulb!

I remember a suggestion of not placing it fully within the coil. Less incursion, less heat.

Now that's a cool gadget! I was originally thinking 'overkill' on the heat by using heat gun innards with a much smaller and slower fan. This thing should be producing vapor faster than on can get their mouth situated on the mouth piece. Damn the watts :p Oh, and maybe a popcorn popper heat...

[hot rollers]

that "Secondary air" is basically a carb. Why not make it a style element. Bring in only one hole at 45 degrees (on the flange's edge) and scoop it for a nice finger-tip fit. A real gimmick is to have it operate a valve that is normally closed in this arrangement. Just a thought. They're free.

@shervin2 I'd go for the portable version of that :science:

You want to stuff a bud in and out comes rosin vapor, and somewhere in the middle, magic happens. Is that about right?

Very nice idea. Definitely following with interest.

LOL... good 'ol fashion kind that I know of. I seem to replace the bulb in my outside light about one every 3 months. Next time I will photograph it. Basically, they are normal bulbs with the brass plate with a wire soldered to it. You peel that away and you have a purply-blue glass...

You know that is EXACTLY what is going to happened.

Ah... where the stem is inserted into the outer bulb, there is normally an 1/8" or so diameter recess maybe 1/4" deep (reaching far back into damaged gray matter here!)... Anyway, you wrestle that around (rock back and forth with a screwdriver, for instance) and it will break nicely at the ridge...

Okay, technique may be required. 'Gently' break out the stem by rocking it after bustin' out the purple glass bit. The screw-in-metal-part is needed for support and remains in place. That's pretty much where I stopped in a past life. You could take a flame to the epoxy and see if it will...