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Thanks :) No worries, I wrote the above while ~50mg of full spectrum NL#5 munchables were coursing through my cortex. While glass is ~20x more thermally conductive than air I still am thinking most of the energy will be found in the center of the cup bottom. Near-field radiant heat may be...

So ~10% diference between the bottom of the sidewall and half way up. Could you check the temp in the center of the bottom vs half way up the cup on the inside of the glass

I need to find an air path diagram. Thinking of getting one so I’m curious. Edit: Figured it out. The cup is SS. Heat does not spread through it quickly. The heat is heading up the rod on the bottom of the cup and spreading out in a circle. The bottom acting like a thermal capacitor as it is...

This one in A2 Steel is my favorite so far. Once it gets warmed up... Boo ya:D The bluing is from a heat test I did on it. Wanted to see how heat traveled down the tip. Geometry works perfectly. I think the stem is mahogany. Friend who makes acoustic guitars gave me a bunch of scrap.

So the cup is both heating the incoming air and warming the glass to keep vapors from condensing on it within the bowl. Good design.

If someone does not have the proper knowledge and tools to build a heating element correctly throwing out half information is dangerous. Especially if they plan to attach it directly (unregulated) to a Lithium ion cell. Or even worse two cells in series. I recommend using...

Wood will weaken as it drys out. Keep it wet with mineral oil and it’ll last a long time. Also when you take the tip out don’t bend it back and forth. Pull straight out. (I actually want this one in the out-o-context thread :D )

Woohoo!! What flood? Will I need a boat? __________________________________________ Day two of slowly dying Agenda: fix yesterday’s design. Not a total fail but close. I went too far with the low temp extraction maths. I learn more from failure than success

I’ll play. I want to build a dual cell DNA75C much like this mod I built for a customer with matching one off custom RDA. Everything in this pic was made by me from scratch. I invented the high performance Radiator coil design. I’m currently designing making and testing DinaVap tips...

Is there not also air being drawn down between the holder (thing the cup sits in) and the metal cup?

Unless you are extracting the leftover duff for nighttime edibles. The vapor has condensed to aerosol before it gets anywhere near your lungs. Plus you want that aerosol to stick to your lungs, that’s how it works. Easy experiment: Measure out two equal portions of the same bud. Separate one...

Not quite primed. Too early in the day. :D

Apparently my focus while dying is pretty good. Ti tip and Ironwood stem.

Okay okay... I’ll make one thing today for the Vap. Which sickness is stronger. The flu or tinkering. We shall see :D

Making bits for my Vap is on hold. I am married to the worlds sexiest librarian. :luv: Problem with librarians is come flu season they become Typhoid Mary. I have the plague :rip:

I have no issue with what others do as long as it doesn’t harm. I get the fun of exhaled vapor. Heck I’m one of the inventors of the modern e-cig, I really understand the value in quitting combustion. Yes, I’m that Boden I just think the top weedtubers might want to dial back the excess in...

For what it does to the air it’s a very simple and efficient design. I consider that clever

Well what is the purpose of the condenser? To condense, or in this case to cool the material passing through. The more mass it has the longer it will stay cool. SS has more mass. But Titanium is more thermally conductive. It will draw heat faster. A plus for the short duration of a draw...

Holding the cap a bit further away from the blue flame should help. Need to use more diffuse heat.