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The outlet on the Holmes filter is on the top of the unit, behind the switches. You can see it clearly in the photos on Amazon. Air goes in the front, the filter is just behind the grill. The box, actually one of these guys (FT-33)...

You should check it out. Such HEPA filters are designed to do just that, and generally do a good job. It's a diminishing returns thing of course, hard to get the last few atoms out and all, but given enough CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) such filters are generally considered effective at a dozen...

Well, yeah sorta. Isn't that what the base unit in my opening post is? A optimized "chamber full of carbon" and a fan behind it? But that only eventually removes the smell. Using the exhale tube guarantees an instant 100% capture of your exhale. It's a time and completeness advantage I'm...

Thanks for trying. It makes no sense from here. Glowing red and not enough heat transfer? Perhaps Matt will have some insight, he's no doubt 'seen it all' by now. Too much glaze on the underside of the doughnut???? OF

One other thought to throw into the mix, as a user you're a LOUSY judge of smells, especially this one. Ever know a cigarette smoker who didn't think his closet reeked? Or a kid who successfully hid experiments with cigarettes from non smoking parents? OF

Thanks, but basically you just repeated what you said? I don't care about the low voltage light show, it won't charge properly at 9 Volts anyway. And I get the idle LED is lit and the charge LED is solid (which it normally never is). But none of the step LEDs is lit? That is the charge...

Bummer. The 'low voltage light show' is normal, but of course the lack of charging is not...... What do the seven level LEDs show while it's trying to charge? Does the charge LED flash normally? I like the 'troubleshoot by substitution' approach, a powerful one indeed. When I used to teach...

Yes, with a couple of qualifications. First, typical Carbon, like the coal photo above, isn't really useful WRT to smells. Ever smell a Coal Miner up close? All that Carbon didn't help much there........ This is a surface game, surface area carries the day. Coal is much too solid to help...

Unless you've a solid reason, you should never depressurize any pressure system (nor let vacuum systems 'up to air'). Seals depend on pressure differences (things like the fill or metering valve leak?) and it can be an invitation to contamination (a tiny bit of water vapor can bring an Iolite...

You should be quite happy with it. You might wonder by the Divine Tribe thread: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/divine-tribe-attys.14455/ The power demands are similar, and we've kinda beat up the 'bitty box mod' topic. Also worth considering are the IStick TC40W (smaller, fixed battery...

A couple of times in the past month or so Members have posted 'how much is this going to smell' and 'what can I do to further limit smell' sorts of questions in the threads I haunt. I thought this might be a good time and place to give a couple of thoughts on the general topic? First point, as...

You are correct. Think about it a minute. That factor is 'how many percent does the resistance change per degree'. With some 'decimal point shifting' thrown in to keep it from being too easy. Normally this sort of value is expressed in PPM (Parts Per Million), 1/10,000th of a percent. But...

Strange indeed. What resistance does it read for the new atty? How about the old one? You might try changing to VW mode and setting it for 12 Watts. That should take you over 425F or so (it won't display temps in that mode). TIA OF

You're in for a real treat for sure. You need a solid 'torch type' lighter to make it work correctly. I recommend you order a couple of these (maybe one or two from both sellers so they can race to your house). 3 bucks each (shipped), tough as can be, hold lot of gas...

Since nobody seems to have come up with a 'shorter version of the Doob Tube for stem and brush storage', I think I'll throw my hat in the ring: Why not cut off the genuine Doob Tube at the length you want? I've done this several times for various reasons. It saws easily, I even cut one off...

If you check back you should find discussions on how the genuine units glow in flat, broad areas between the terminals when over heated? The clones (at least some) show a 'zig-zag' pattern (the apparent result of wire rather than continuous film), which as I recall is how that discussion got...

No, not really. The charge control is built into the Solo, the part that actually monitors and controls the charging and ends the cycle. Normally such packs use a 'balance charger' (like is used on R/C models) that has an extra lead brought out so each cell is charged as an individual. This...

I agree. Perhaps "Best possible" is in play here? Or maybe this is the source of the English expression 'no compromises'? I wonder how that translates? Probably 'the right way' or something? Very 'tick tock' folks, the Swiss. At least the ones I've had the pleasure to have known...

Yep, it's also not wire. At least not on the genuine units. It's a deposited metal film on the ceramic base. I suspect vacuum coated (using a mask to control deposit). That is the parts are heated in the vacuum then exposed to the vapor of boiling metal (which condenses atom by atom) into...

Bummer for sure, but this time with a sliver lining? Good of Arizer to swap with you, perhaps they'll learn something useful in analyzing it? Sounds like you'll soon be in tall cotton with a brand new Solo backing up your 'great deal used unit' from a fellow Member? That's cool, too. Sadly I...