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Welcome aboard :wave: Halogen bulbs are a great place to start as the element itself is encased in a glass bubble and fittings are readily available. A few others I've tried Heater cartridges Soldering iron elements Ohmite resistors Nichrome, Kanthal, SS ... ecig wire or mesh

Nice work :tup: Love it when the balls line up like the one in the top right :love: What heating elements are you using ?

The best of thread http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-dynavap-vapcap.24345/

Does your gauze in the stem/roasting tube need a clean?

Distillers like these are often cheap on ebay, Amazon ..... I think I paid about $100 for a digital one with a glass jug https://www.amazon.co.uk/KITGARN-Distiller-Adjustable-Temperature-Stainless/dp/B07THQ88PV Which is basically the same as a Green Oil Machine https://www.greenoilmachine.com/...

Don't think the French really do 4/20 Prices on lacentralevapeur are a little cheaper when you log in so when you use the 10% off code for FC members (FC13LCV10) it brings the basic Herborizer kit down to €180 , which is the cheapest I've seen it.

Welcome to the club :wave: Can you light the dodgy torches with the bic, for now ? (I think they usually get like that as the electrodes move and tarnish over time)

Just wanted to say thank you to @Alan and @blokenoname once again for the heat spreader disc idea The change to the heat spread and consistency is quite impressive with the addition of a 7 or 8mm SS disc at the tip of the bulb in my BudEaters :clap::tup:

I bought a Zk-j5x which works well for my halogen vapes n diy things but only goes up and down in .05 increments so I've got a Xys3580 on order...

Banggood usually list the best instructions I've found for these things I think this is the same one ...

A plume of vapour from the top of the weedeater when you stop drawing It's caused by the backwash as the water settles back down to its natural level in the bong when you stop drawing. As a result, vapour and air are forced back up the downpipe The amount of water displacement as you draw, how...

I like them with a side arm for a handle as it saves you the bother of having to bend some wire or something to make one A cheaper one from far far away https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/18-18mm-glass-adapter-with-14mm-carb-glass/408713325.html Or there's these with a thinner handle...

Have you tried the pinch n roll technique? - pinch the airport and roll the Vapcap as you draw to adjust the airflow

Not safe for work - bad language

I thought a front XLR socket would be better but it reduces access to the up and down buttons. If you're a set and forget kinda vaper it doesn't make much difference but if you like to temp step or tinker with the dab temps I find it a bit awkward with the XLR socket on the front.

They make kick modules to go in ecig mech mods to limit power and prevent over draining https://www.fasttech.com/search?Kick%20module Or there's chips like these to do the same job if you're building a box mod...

Press the fire button 3 times to enter edit mode (or however many Clicks you have Edit set to in Interface>clicks) - the top line will flash when in edit mode. Press the down button (left) repeatedly until the battery icon flashes. Press the up button to cycle through the display options. Press...

I haven't tried it but it says you can in the description here https://www.elev8glassgallery.com/elev8r-heater-quartz/ "The ELEV8R heater is made with quartz, which is extremely resistant to changes in heat. Carefully dunk it in a water bath after you heat it to quickly cool it down!"

It's called the G43 as there's a 4mm rod inside (I THINK it's quartz) with a SS coil wrapped around it, and 3mm glass beads around that. Yes, you can use a power supply and a step down converter to power the mod version G43 I power mine with a 12V 5A PSU and a DPS3005 or a ZK-J5X step down...