My first vaporizer

[AlexT2]

Hello friends, first sorry with my English, it is very bad.
Well, with so much free time I have lately, I have decided to get my first vaporizer.
I have taken as an example of course, the MLFB.
This is the result, I did it with a removable cover to be able to clean it better, and above all to allow me to make modifications, since it is still a Beta version.
The battery is an INR18650
I have some problems, which I comment after the photos.

[url=https://ibb.co/bmMKZQk] [/URL]

The problems are due to excess energy, if you get confused it burns the matter very easily, it has to be very tactful.
And the battery and the 3mm bars that are made of 950 silver also get very hot, at this rate of discharge the battery dies very soon.
Is there any way to control that excess enrgia?
As simple as possible
Greetings.

 

[GoldenBud]

it looks nice imo! i liked the idea.
my first thing to cross my mind is, how you protect from overdraining the battery? MFLB has AA battery afaik, less energy than here's 18650.. you should use some control or so? you don't wanna take the battery to its limit although most of them got protection

 

[AlexT2]

Hello, the battery does not have protection, I control it with a multimeter, in fact I use 2 batteries that I insert so that they recover from the heater.

 

[GoldenBud]

@KeroZen any tips?

 

[KeroZen]

Without creating a more elaborate electronic circuit nope. But please measure your heater resistance and do the math, it must not exceed your cell CDR rating. And it's best to leave some margin.

 

[AlexT2]

Hi KeroZen, thanks for your help.
This is the measure of resistance, actually it is a bit more because I don't count the curve that makes the resistance.
Could you give me the link to be able to do the necessary calculations?

[url=https://ibb.co/YX4yrDT] [/URL]

 

[KeroZen]

Ah well no, it's very complex to compute the resistance of a mesh from scratch. The best solution is to measure it with a multimeter (or well the best solution is to have directly a top notch Ohmmeter but they cost a lot)

You could get an approximation using those cheapo ohmmeters for e-cig coils but you would need to hook your circuit to it and that would add extra parasitic resistance...

Anyway probably easier with a multimeter and a CC source, or two meters with or without a known value power resistor. There are some hints here for instance: https://electronics.stackexchange.c...-you-measure-low-resistance-accurately/188895

The trick is that your ammeter probably will max at 10A and you might be exceeding that value. If you got a 20A one that could do the trick, otherwise you can limit the current using a calibrated power resistor like those (image shown for reference you can find some on aliexpres etc):

 

[AlexT2]

Unfortunately my knowledge in this matter is nil, if I want to continue evolving on this topic I would have to learn more about these issues.
At the moment I upload these photos with measurements that I do not know if they are useful, I also measured a resistance that I made to test.

[url=https://ibb.co/bNK8N5p] [/URL]

 

[Hippie]

They make kick modules to go in ecig mech mods to limit power and prevent over draining
https://www.fasttech.com/search?Kick module

Or there's chips like these to do the same job if you're building a box mod
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010021/2093101-x6-3-2-4-2v-vv-variable-voltage-control-module

 

[scy123]

I would have to suggest you be very careful with what you are doing the way it is now. You are intentionally shorting the battery on a screen with unknown resistance. With an 18650 this may not end well. The battery getting very hot would be an indication that it is running past what it can handle.

To accomplish what you are trying to do safety, getting a solid ohm reading at the battery connections would be critical. To put things in perspective, the mflb has a resistance of 0.07ohms or so. If you ran it on an 18650 it would be trying to pull 50a and 185 watts. The highest rated 18650 is rated 30a or so with some being as low as 7a.

I made some advancements on the mflb, you may be interested to read the thread as you can definitely benefit from the ideas behind it.

 

[KeroZen]

Yeah before you go further and blow half of your face and palm, please have a read at this thread first: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/18650-battery-safety.18527/

As said above, if you can't measure your resistance properly (and no just a direct DMM measurement like you tried won't cut it, for small resistances like that you are basically measuring your probe leads, you'd need to do a 4 wire measurement) the cell temperature should give you a hint already.

If it's getting anything more than luke-warm after use, it's probably not good. Either the cell is not up to the task or your heater resistance is much too low.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/experiments/chpt-3/4-wire-resistance-measurement/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

But the alternatives I posted earlier might be more practical for DIY depending on the kind of gear you have access to.

 

[AlexT2]

They make kick modules to go in ecig mech mods to limit power and prevent over draining
https://www.fasttech.com/search?Kick module

Or there's chips like these to do the same job if you're building a box mod
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010021/2093101-x6-3-2-4-2v-vv-variable-voltage-control-module

Thanks Hippie, interesting links, the first one is out of stock, the second one if it is in stock, that reminds me of the BECs used in Drones, I don't know the output amps it supports.

I would have to suggest you be very careful with what you are doing the way it is now. You are intentionally shorting the battery on a screen with unknown resistance. With an 18650 this may not end well. The battery getting very hot would be an indication that it is running past what it can handle.

To accomplish what you are trying to do safety, getting a solid ohm reading at the battery connections would be critical. To put things in perspective, the mflb has a resistance of 0.07ohms or so. If you ran it on an 18650 it would be trying to pull 50a and 185 watts. The highest rated 18650 is rated 30a or so with some being as low as 7a.

I made some advancements on the mflb, you may be interested to read the thread as you can definitely benefit from the ideas behind it.

Thanks for your advice, I am aware of the danger involved, and I am sure that if I continue to use it like this, the batteries will die very soon.
In any case, lithium-ion is safer than lithium-polymer, and these have been years of experience dealing with them.
I will read the thread of the MFLB, I hope it is not many pages.

Yeah before you go further and blow half of your face and palm, please have a read at this thread first: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/18650-battery-safety.18527/

As said above, if you can't measure your resistance properly (and no just a direct DMM measurement like you tried won't cut it, for small resistances like that you are basically measuring your probe leads, you'd need to do a 4 wire measurement) the cell temperature should give you a hint already.

If it's getting anything more than luke-warm after use, it's probably not good. Either the cell is not up to the task or your heater resistance is much too low.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/experiments/chpt-3/4-wire-resistance-measurement/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

But the alternatives I posted earlier might be more practical for DIY depending on the kind of gear you have access to.

Thanks for the information, I will read this publication carefully, very interesting, to see if I am able to retain something jajaja.
Surely I will buy a module that manages the current as most portable vaporizers have.
I have reviewed my 18650 batteries and no more than 10A output, for these uses better 20A or 30A is ideal
My dream is to do something similar to the TM, but it is just that a dream.

 

[scy123]

Judging by the pics and measurements taken, I would say your resistance is well below what a mflb is. If the mflb will try to pull 50a, what yours is pulling will be much more. Safer does not equal safe.

The thread is actually very long. If your dream is to do something like a tiny might you will 100% have to know this stuff. The TM operates on the same principles I am incorporating. I will save you the trouble and summarize.

Most metals will change resistance as it heats. You can use this change in resistance to accurately determine the temperature of the element. The element will essentially be acting as a temp probe. This will allow you to do 3 things of importance. 1. Limit and control the temp of your element. 2. boost with full power to achieve set temp in the least amount of time. 3. maintain set temp throughout pull.

This sounds like a hard task to accomplish but, an ecig mod already incorporates this and will basically do everything for you.

 

[AlexT2]

Fantastic explanation. Thanks a lot.
My idea is to make a portable vaporizer type MT.
I also want to experiment with silver as a conductor of energy, I think it is very efficient, more than safe copper. And it's not that expensive either.
But for that there remains a learning course, which in my case, given the little knowledge of electronics, will have to be based on trial and error.
I have seen some modules that control the temperature type
Stick Pico 75W Styled that to start I think they are fine.

 

[scy123]

1 thing to keep in mind. Many mods have ohm limits. Most you can only go down to 0.1ohm. Some you can go lower..... I think the lowest I seen is 0.03ohm. For your application getting something that supports the lowest ohms would be ideal.

 

[AlexT2]

Well, I managed to resurrect my pax 2, now it is on demand, off board, I put new quality battery and continue to work.
the efficiency of this resistance and its bowl are very good,
Too bad the button, I have to get something more quality.

[url=https://ibb.co/0BZxNd1] [/URL]

You know, don't throw away the broken pax.