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That's pretty much all I had at the time I made mine. Just start with a small bit and work your way up. As I posted a couple pages back, leave a lip on the top end to hold the O rings inside. This would be the easiest to do. For the Bull, thicker O rings for the bottom, or maybe tubing as I...

AWG 22 Ti.

Very true, Titanium will oxidize at 1200 degrees, which is very red hot. At 600-650 degrees we're running here, there is no problem. A reason I do not recommend running in power mode as easy to goof up. TC ONLY. Using SS has caught my interest but decided to pass as you will lose accuracy in...

So I made a couple video's to help those having a hard time with their coils. No need for the slit tube as I found an easier method for you guys. Just need a couple straws.... And for those having trouble mounting it.... That's .28 ohms hidden under the "click to play" which is what that 8"...

It sure can be. But after a while it gets much easier. @StonerSloth had a rough start and is getting a leash on it. In fact he's very close and going to nail it shortly. Definitely touching the sides is a no no. Worth mentioning along this vein, when picking which terminal to connect the coil...

Your very welcome. This is the post you are referring to I think. An even tighter coil is needed. Although a VV /VW mod will work, no real control on combustion is present. TC is the way to go. @E0x, we need to use Ti wire in Ni mode to gain an extra 100 degrees or so. If you used the same Ti...

Good stuff!! Too much on my plate currently but can help here. This is the ticket for the tubing. 14mm 304 Stainless Steel Tubing. Should help out any takers for what your purposing. Have ordered myself for a similar vape Project and can vouch on it's grade. (passes the non-magnetic test) And he...

Originally, yes, that was my thinking. But always go for simpler is better. (And easier) The only needed hold down is the top lip. As the force will always be a downward push, no need for a lowest restraint. The order of assembly is important as I noted above. Inserting the first 3 followed by a...

I think many coil types will work fine. Figure the key is to fill the oven up as evenly spaced as possible. Making air pockets as uniform as possible. Agreed fine tuning the inner wrap verses the outer winding is kinda difficult to hit perfectly. I was thinking a little larger diameter inner...

The method I've been using to make the coils is in this post. With exception of material used, which is now 22 gauge Ti at around .3 ohms. @xenodius is trying a different coil now and sounds like a good one as well. I had tried a single stove top type before but never a double. Good stuff.

Well, you are very welcome! It has been a fun ride. Good question about the intake holes. First time that has come up. I have 2 holes 5/64" placed 180 degrees apart along the middle grooved ring. Ideally, the holes should end up between the terminal posts when screwed down. To do this mark the...

Lovin seeing this type of initiative. Fun stuff. Little concerned about the diameter though as never tested. An alternative base unit might be this puppy for under $12. Again I never tested but it caught my eye. Just remove the guts and install a couple screens. It has that magic 14mm diameter...

Yepper, never really need to but it does unscrew.

You might also set your oven to lowest setting. Open bottom and unscrew the top place on a cookie sheet for 2+ hours. As long as no attempt to turn on while wet, you have excellent survival chance. Good luck. Would be a definite piss off moment.

Give the ss a shot. Curious on how it works out. Here is a graph of how temperature effects the resistance of the 3 (usable) metals. Notice how little change there is with stainless. IMO, just not enough to have an accurate device. This graph also shows how come using Ti in Ni mode makes for a...

Thread showing activity... love it! I have played with adding extra heating surface with ceramic. The problem is the extra mass takes more "time" to reach temperature. The key to why this scheme seems to be working is the fact that there is over 40 watts to work with to maintain the element...

Qman has being doing his homework. IMO, best path for vapor is from heat source through load with as little heat loss as possible along the way. Meaning, minimising air restriction and heat sink effect. So I find using a fine stainless steel screen the best. A few pages back just after going...

LOL, I figured it out after 2-3 burns. Have it down now, the dang thing gets hot. Sorry, just had to. Really though, compensation?

Thinking you are asking about the mouthpiece end. Yes, you need to adapt a mouthpiece. Options, 1: Adapter to be able to use standard 510 tip. or/and 2: DIY with dowling and O rings. (Can help out here as well) Never tried the E-leaf but imagine it will work. Anything 40 watts or over should be...

Howdy @tepictoton, welcome aboard! The EVIC Mini is the unit I'm using after comparing to 3 others. Higher temp might be nice but the tricking has been working fine. By tricking I mean as you said, use titanium in nickel mode. For example, but note numbers are for my set up and are meaningless...