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Not much happened this weekend - a few replacement pico's arrived otherwise still waiting for various width nichrome wire - i thought was coming from a local supplier on ebay but looks like its on the way from china so could have a weeks wait before any more build stuff happens. Have had some...

Amazon have killed a lot of things unfortunately and the quality of some of their stuff is questionable. My placement of the thermocouple is going to be at the oppose end of the tube to the intake and possibly shielded from it entirely so may try out some of the 800C spray paint on it.

I had an idea for an insulator for the thermocouple - anodised aluminium foil - just did a quick read up on how to do it and looks simple enough with sulphuric acid + distilled water and a battery. I realise would be quite fragile but maybe a nice way to allow almost bare metal contact between...

I followed your method but think just was too quick with the heating after scoring the glass - there are some nice videos on youtube - one using a dremel type tool which is really pushing me towards getting one - and some of non dremel copies look quite good and pretty cheap and i do want to try...

yes i have had to keep cutting the length of the steel ribbon down to get it hot enough hence me now looking at the nichrome - and have realised i need to do some kind of pwm to control it - tbh im a bit unsure how the tiny mighty 2 element pushes out so much heat if its about 20cm long and is...

Not done much today as i dont have a pi and well i do need to do some work once in a while. @Hippie Dickie - im going to look at nichrome as the the heater element - the reason i used the stainless steel ribbon is i had it and also its what the tm2 and other heater elements seem to be made of...

More messing with test tubes and steel wire to come to a very elegant one. The heavy copper wire provides power but is also the stand. If you look at the right hand image there is the adjustable strip to change the length of the coil however i had a brainwave - it could be used to split the...

The problem for me with the pico is im using the usb interface as a console and to program it and also power I also got about 5 or so of most things - but the place only had 2 of the picos in stock at the time. Just fried my second one - i was using the power supply i used for the induction...

Well i think i have fcked one of the picos i have - fortunately i have 2 - the ground on the batteries is at 12v and the pico is at 3.3-5v but thought it was ok as for the induction heaters i used a common ground for the pico, mosfet trigger switch thing and heater and no probs but it seems i...

Bit of experimenting with the element heater - the hall sensors turned up already as well as some victoria clips. So put together a basic heating thing - it struggled with just the one battery and even with 3 in series with about 12v is pushing somewhere around 1-1.5 amps though the ribbon...

Finally fixed the menu issue and a lot happier doing a code dump to github now. https://github.com/highvaper/heater-controller the main program is a bit dirty still and need a clear up but think should be in a lot better state for people to look at and even give it a go

Ah thanks for clearing that up was doing some reading on buck convertors for that but looks like i can power the pi directly from one of the many molical p28a i have - i realise not as decent as the batteries your using but i have a load of them for my mod and tm2

I thought the voltage regulation would be more involved compared to just flipping the current on/off with the mosfet - i will have more of a read on the vregs and perhaps try out both methods - im enjoying learning all of this very much. Who would have thought that there were so many different...

very good point - im looking at doing a heating element with the ribbon wire but of course i dont need the source voltage do i ? only to keep eye on battery and how its performing. Ah it could be useful to work out the resistance of the element on the fly - if i have input V output V and...

I like the jubilee clip idea - could be useful for controlling the stainless steel ribbon - thanks for the link and idea. I have got side tracked now looking at element heaters - but have finished separating the menu from the display classes as they had become very intertwined and now have a...

@Hippie Dickie - your way ahead of me on all of this (like decades) and your input is really appreciated - was just reading up on your use of the bbq thermistor and was just looking at the HT-NTC100K as they are quite cheap and seem to be able to handle up to about 300 - i saw your post on them...

@Hippie Dickie just re-reading your build thread backwards to see how to actually deal with powering the heating element and saw the line "i have labored over the probe positioning since the beginning" - this is something im obviously dealing with as well and had this idea and was wondering if...

@Hippie Dickie your thread of the Bud Toaster has so much useful information in it. I kind of went down the induction route as a way to avoid having a hot coil type thing - i have a screwball vape and its really nice but wanted an all glass arrangement like the Vaponic but without butane and...

Well development has slowed other than adding an LED to indicate when its in session mode or manual (so i could get back some screen space on the graphs and remove the "Session: xx" timer display) also it will flash 3 times with a gap and repeat if when it boots up cannot initialise the display...

So the glass straws arrived and they are purple - i misread the description but guess what they work great. First proper go was better than i expected with minimal amount producing a really nice buzz - i had been hitting the TM2 most of the day and this was so nice in comparison i really was...