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If you dont find a EU local source I can ship a replacement from US (shipping cost is kinda high). PM for more info

the OEM is Loctite Hysol M-21HP or Loctite Hysol M-121HP (I think the cure color is the difference, not 100%), but they are a bit expensive and need an applicator gun. There's a single use FDA epoxy people use for one off repairs - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTGVCWI should work fine

Only one way to find out. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to do 100 more bowls and see

i tried to clean one of these screens with a torch before… don’t do that. it will turn it all kinds of random colors and look worse. the only real fix is to remove the glass and replace the screen. but it will still look different

new dabber variant 'Darth Maul' style lol. trying out some glass lined wooden stems too.

I haven't used a regular splinter nearly as much, so I don't know how optimal these settings are but this is what I've got set in the profiles - 42W, TCR125, 360F the Z is just way way better unless you really value portability

new stand variant - added a space for basket screens

100%. fastest and most thorough

for Z I like to use - TCR160, 380F, 55W, lock resistance to cold

what were you using before? it may just be the common v2 settings passed around are insufficient. the TCR 125 / -0 has a delta of 0.057 and the TCR 185 /-0.022 has a delta of 0.077, which is 35% higher. you can lock ohms at 0 and use TCR 145 for comparable performance, or you can lock ohms at 0...

I dunno how other mods do it, but on arctic fox the cold ambient temp is set in the config, its 70F by default. looking at a Z - ambient cold ohm TCR temp delta live res 21.1 0.378 185 204.4 0.12818169 0.50618169 21.1 0.397 100 204.4 0.0727701 0.4697701 @GoldenBud no not close at...

I made a spreadsheet awhile back to help me understand TCR math, here's a link in case anyone wants to dive into the math a bit more - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19rWRkrfSfqlYWCJpGu7Axa_TubS7fqiIlJ3Sex6WFrw/edit?usp=sharing ex - sheet 2 can be used to compare TCR values. at a...

depending on what kind of glue it shouldn’t be in the airpath regardless of temp. i don’t think the wood company pressed the panels together with medical epoxy. it’s just another material that wasn’t meant to be breathed through. at the end of the day it’s just a cost cutting measure. solid wood...

clearly, it’s some kind of plywood. and to argue it’s not is disingenuous. this is the kind of bs i point to when saying that any criticisms are not allowed. of course it’s a layered wood glued together why would you even argue that point. and my initial comments about the airpath were because...

you’re unlikely to damage the heater from any TC that is set properly. but the main source of damage to these units is if the wooden body is allowed to get too hot with no airflow going through it pulling the heat out. at a certain temp the glue will fail and the glass will fall out or the base...

I can probably do it. What kind of repair?

late update to the repair - turns out the power supply was failing also. it would drop from 12v to about 9v, and the supply would get hot but the vapbong didn’t heat up. the coil repair worked and after swapping supplies it’s back to functional. 12v drops about .3v instead

I know but it looks so constricted and ugly :D exhibit A, look how narrow - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0017/1828/8436/products/20221108_095821_2048x2048.jpg?v=1667919908 exhibit B, look how convoluted - https://i.ibb.co/wZHrJYw/20221115-225947846.jpg edit: I think i quoted the wrong...

My friend sent me the measurements and it fit almost perfect on v1. pretty stoked. Wasn't intentional but it has a really nice friction fit snap into place on the battery caps

whats the cold ohm reading of the Z?