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In my experience i want it to be slightly glowing, that's abouy the ideal temp for good performance. And the presence of the glwoingdoesn't imply its damaging the coil, it's just blackbody radiation.

You mean that the Zirconium does oxidise and degrade over time? And if so, does it do it only if severely overheated? Anyway I don't think the oxidation is that much of a big deal for health, it probably creates only like 0.01% additinonal bad fumes to your lungs or something like that.

Sure, if you want to do it TC mode, you have to use a SS (or other material able to TC) coil, and should take off the wood to expose the coil, and tune the TCR curve, try some height of that step, and then set in on max temp and press the button, if you see the coil begin to glow you immediate...

Isn't the nicrome also capable of running in TC mode? And why would using TC destroy the coil? It just lowers the wattage when it's overheating to keep the desired temp steady and prevent you from combusting.

If you want the smoothest safest best performance you should power your Musa 510 with a DNA mod, and create a special Musa TCR curve. That will give you great temp control for your Musa 510. It's not precise or accurate (because of the musa simplicity and because of the hacky way that TCR is...

The Thelemusa

The airflow sound changes significantly when the coil is hot, I wonder why that is, maybe because the hot wire makes the air more turbulent...? Air molecules that tuch it get sped up, soair pressure might radiate from them. Anyway the sound is useful for noticing the battery is locked before you...

i want to use TC with my DNA mod, that has faster heatup and protection against overheating - much better safer more predictable than wattage mode. Kanthal and nichrome are not able to work in TC afaik. Zirconium can. And as I said, I'd rather not the screws agains, they are very worn out, and...

been noticing than my SS coil is slowly rising its room temp resistance over weeks. so its slowly getting colder at the same setting until I remeasure and the ohms go up a few percent. I guess that would be better if I used some other material like that recommended zirconium, though that might...

TC Musa with a tiny hydratube:

do you still have those? maybe take a photo of them next to to the proper ones from the deck, so I could have better idea, just make sure to make the photo as perpendicular as possible to minimize perspective. And what do you mean by not perfect? It's not possible to fit, or just very hard, but...

so i got a set of o-rings, sadly none of them are usable, they are all 2mm thick and that's too thick, no way I could force the wood over them. Anyway 18-20mm ID does fit well on the deck, 17mm or 21mm might still fit too, though that would not be ideal. Fortunately I've also found a small...

I measured the diameter of these slits as about 19 or 20 mm, i guess the o-rig has to stretch a bit and gets thinner as it stretches. I already ordered 16,18,19 and 20 ID, and sent an email asking to switch the 20 for 14 lol. Hopefully at least something works. edit: Digging through my DMs, I...

If 18mm if OD and thickness is 2mm i guess inner diamater is 16mm I wonder if this one would do, it is silicone. https://www.vkloziska.cz/krouzek-o-16x2-mvq80

Anyone know where I should look for those silicone rings? I broke both of them and so my Musa doesn't hold together. I'd like to fix that as it's a really good and my only portable vape. Can I know the specs? Is it 20mm diameter, 1mm thickness? I have a hard time finding any shop that would even...

It's a crack, it just run like an inch upward, its flat liek crack do so both sides, thoguh I can't feel it on any side since there's nothing chipped.

A small crack has formed on my long dry stem, don't know when and how, should I be worried? How likely it is for such a crack to tu just suddenly break the piece one time?

Thankfully my EVO is a keeper, still kickin, has far outlived all the broken previous ones, I hope it will never die. A living memory of the pinnacle of all-glass vaping.

So I cut off the crimp caps, I did not have any new ones, so I used a screw-in junction instead. It lacked the metal lining inside, so the screw could not be tightened very tightly, but I coiled the lightbulb and ceramic wires around the power wire and so far it seem to work after I put it all...

So not long after the socket on my E-Nano broke and I went back to the older backup E-Nano (that already had as much usage before I got the newer one), the old backup one is now broken too. I guess after so much time of the socketless cord being bent back and forth at the point of ENano...