I just contacted the manufacturer of the 510 deck. They will hopefully know the correct size
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Musa 510
- Thread starter MUSA Vaporizer
- Start date
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
so i got a set of o-rings, sadly none of them are usable, they are all 2mm thick and that's too thick, no way I could force the wood over them. Anyway 18-20mm ID does fit well on the deck, 17mm or 21mm might still fit too, though that would not be ideal. Fortunately I've also found a small rubber ring that also does fit, and is thin and soft enough to be useable, I've only got 1 though, it's enough to hold it together. It's just soft kitchen rubber, so it will probably break very fast, so I'll try to not disasseble the musa anymore, the coil work well, no need to fiddle with it anymore.
I also tried Ø17-20mm with 1,5mm thickness and its not perfect, too.
Maybe its not a metric measurement... The wotofo manufacturers sadly didnt answer my request yet. I probably contacted them in the past already, i would wonder if not
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
do you still have those? maybe take a photo of them next to to the proper ones from the deck, so I could have better idea, just make sure to make the photo as perpendicular as possible to minimize perspective. And what do you mean by not perfect? It's not possible to fit, or just very hard, but possible? I guess the softness plays a role too, because if they are too soft, then I ccan only put one on there on the upper groove, and it will move to the bottom one as I put the wood on, if I put two soft ring into both grooves, then they just smoosh on th bottom and it doesn't fit.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
TC Musa with a tiny hydratube:
I most likley found the correct size now. But I still have to aprove it. Its 16mm inner diameter, and thickness is 1,2-1,25mm. I am awaiting the arvial of the orings
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
been noticing than my SS coil is slowly rising its room temp resistance over weeks. so its slowly getting colder at the same setting until I remeasure and the ohms go up a few percent. I guess that would be better if I used some other material like that recommended zirconium, though that might be quite hard to find and also I dont want to make a new coil, it takes a lot of time and effort and the two deck screws sare getting worn out so I worry I might not be able to tighten another new coil.
I would not recommend to use zirconium.
Better use nichrome or kanthal.
I would recommend to tighten the screws with little pliars. They will keep tight, doing it like this.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
i want to use TC with my DNA mod, that has faster heatup and protection against overheating - much better safer more predictable than wattage mode. Kanthal and nichrome are not able to work in TC afaik. Zirconium can. And as I said, I'd rather not the screws agains, they are very worn out, and don't seem loose at this point, and trying to tighten more just makes the screwdiver slip and wears out the screw even more.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
The airflow sound changes significantly when the coil is hot, I wonder why that is, maybe because the hot wire makes the air more turbulent...? Air molecules that tuch it get sped up, soair pressure might radiate from them. Anyway the sound is useful for noticing the battery is locked before you could start feeling the warmth.
Dankvinci
Well-Known Member
I love simple vapes. This is definitely interesting!!Hey guys, let me show you my recent project!
I may can answer some questions of you in advance:
- Coldstart preheat is about 2 seconds (depends on the setting).
- The heater is a selfmade ss316 coil, shaped like a tornado and can (but not must) be replaced.
- As mouthpiece i use the arizer glass stem. An airtight connection is guaranted because of the oring inside of the vaporizer. 14.5mm glass is available.
- runs with 30-37W (depending on drawspeed)
- 24mm stainless steel RDA based.
- Diameter 30mm, hight 40mm
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
The Thelemusa
AssistedLiving
Well-Known Member
he recently started making the 510's again, email him to get on the list
tobias
tobias
musa.vaporizer@gmail.com
Thank you so much for your help!
Unfortunately, the new batch is for the people who joined the waiting list about two years ago. Right now the waiting list is not open for new customers, im so sorry!
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
List closed. I’m in the list since June 2021 and still nothing.
I havent produced the portable version for almost two years. But i started to work on them again
BigJr48
Well-Known Member
Last night I sent you a email requesting to get on board.I havent produced the portable version for almost two years. But i started to work on them again
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
If you want the smoothest safest best performance you should power your Musa 510 with a DNA mod, and create a special Musa TCR curve. That will give you great temp control for your Musa 510. It's not precise or accurate (because of the musa simplicity and because of the hacky way that TCR is designed), but it's dependable. You can set your desired temperature between 200-315. It's not the real temperature, but if you tune it correctly than 200 will be just not hot enough to vape it, 250 would be like low temp vaping, 300 would be like hightemp vaping. You press the button, wait 1 sec, start inhaling, release the button about 3-5 seconds before you stop inhaling, and you get a good hit. And it will never acidentally combust, unless you set up the TCR curve or ohms wrong.
You will need to make your own stainless stell coil, because the default coil is nicrome which doesn't support TC.
These are some examples of my TCR curves, so you can get the idea how to do it. It's for stainless steel coils. The curves are increasigly more hot. They are tuned for my coil so you will have to figurew out how high you make the step yourself. For example Musa0 material is the coldest, Musa3 is the hottest, that means that for example Musa0's 300°C setting would target a colder temp than Musa3's 300°C setting.
Also if you like my DNA theme design with that cute face mode that you can see on my previous post up there, you can download it here.
The battery mod in that photo is Lost Vape Thelema Solo 100W DNA with wooden style, I think that is the best match for Musa in both aesthetics and practicality.
You will need to make your own stainless stell coil, because the default coil is nicrome which doesn't support TC.
These are some examples of my TCR curves, so you can get the idea how to do it. It's for stainless steel coils. The curves are increasigly more hot. They are tuned for my coil so you will have to figurew out how high you make the step yourself. For example Musa0 material is the coldest, Musa3 is the hottest, that means that for example Musa0's 300°C setting would target a colder temp than Musa3's 300°C setting.
Also if you like my DNA theme design with that cute face mode that you can see on my previous post up there, you can download it here.
The battery mod in that photo is Lost Vape Thelema Solo 100W DNA with wooden style, I think that is the best match for Musa in both aesthetics and practicality.
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Very interesting to read the details about your technique! Thank you!
But please dont use TC everyone else. I used stainless steel coils only in my first batch and swapped to a different coil material later. Nowadays the Musa 510s doesnt work in TC mode anymore and it would destroy the lifetime coil!
They are desinged for wattage mode. Its because i dont like the material properties when it comes to heating stainless steel. And i made a similar experience with zirconium. But i can only talk about my personal construction and experiments.
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Only stainless steel and zirconium are capable of running in TC mode, from what i know.
The stainless steel coil was not a lifetime coil in my actual construction. There was potential to break the coil if your personal technique required the coil to run too hot for the material.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
Sure, if you want to do it TC mode, you have to use a SS (or other material able to TC) coil, and should take off the wood to expose the coil, and tune the TCR curve, try some height of that step, and then set in on max temp and press the button, if you see the coil begin to glow you immediate release the button to not burn the coil, and then adjust the TCR curve a little lower and try again. When you find that sweet spot where the max temp just makes it glow midly red, then you have successfuly tuned the TCR curve, you can then put the wood back on, and the TC mode will just work, and will never overheat the coil, even if you just press the buttton and hold it without inhaling.
And for the nicrome, it sucks that it cannot do TC, what issues did you get with zirconium? I think that could be perfect material for a Musa TC coil.
And for the nicrome, it sucks that it cannot do TC, what issues did you get with zirconium? I think that could be perfect material for a Musa TC coil.
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XpeeN
Well-Known Member
Nicrome doesn't change its resistance when heating up, so TCR (and TFR) can't be used to calculate how hot the heating element is. So if you try to use TC with unsupported wire, it'll just keep firing at max watt as long as it's activated (or barely give any power if you set the TCR low enough), which will overheat the heating element and damage it.