stonedBBer
Well-Known Member
Any guides on adjusting the bowl depth
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The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
Tried rubies today, and liked how they perform...but I'm not sure how would they compare to Quartz. Quartz still punchier?
Also, had to back down from 0.2 bowl, too much for spontaneous hit here and there during day...will come more handy on special times.
You can use a penny, to help you adjusting depth on Wand.
I prefer it positioned slightly higher than recommended. But Wand and batteries may play a role in this...
Also, had to back down from 0.2 bowl, too much for spontaneous hit here and there during day...will come more handy on special times.
There are some guidelines in the v2 manual on MH web page. https://madheaters.co.uk/pages/tempest-2-manual
You can use a penny, to help you adjusting depth on Wand.
I prefer it positioned slightly higher than recommended. But Wand and batteries may play a role in this...
stonedBBer
Well-Known Member
That isn't a guide on adjusting bowl depth that is for adjusting the depth of the head on wand.
I'm asking about the depth of the bowl itself which there is NOT a guide for on @breyno website. There is a guide to adjust the bowl depth for the V1 ONLY
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
Oh, 0.2 bowl is indeed heavy! 
Here are some pics from previous example...
I recently also tried to mount/eject the screen using helix tube and wooden cylinder from phattpiggie.
Here are some pics from previous example...
I recently also tried to mount/eject the screen using helix tube and wooden cylinder from phattpiggie.
Doug.dimmaglow
New Member
Was curious about this myself. Has anyone tried faceted rubies in the tempest? Very interested in how that would play out
Chicken No Name
Dazed and confused
The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
People really like closing the airport huh? I only close mine when the bowl starts cooling down and vapor productions significantly diminishes My clouds are much more puffy than this smoke-like thick vapor... I couldnt really pull of (effectively at least without reheats) that joint style...
fuckcombustion.com
@.d even included a photo guide!
stonedBBer
Well-Known Member
HaggisHunter
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I am indeed a bit of a fiend for the Mad Heaters gear. Truly changed my vaping experience a few years ago, stuck with them sinceThat pic is amazing ! A true Mad Heater lover
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
Depends on what kind of config you like for mtl. I like the 2,5 balls because the more restrictive airflow. And glass balls or SiC balls because the punchier performance (if they are punchier, then you dont need long puffs and it is better for mtl)
HaggisHunter
Well-Known Member
I've had good results with the SS balls. I have some heavy material here, I'm getting about 7 good pulls from the 0.1g bowl when doing MTL.
I'm using 3mm at the moment, but might swap to the 2.5mm this weekend after being reminded of their more restrictive airflow by @kokolokokolokon comment there.
Jozin88
Well-Known Member
My clicks have been calibrated now it seems. I was also combusting by the time the indicator reached the third notch. I opened the cap and tapped around it lightly to ensure the outermost ring appeared to make contact with the wall.
Im using rubies and heating with a torch (cap fully open with the stem almost closed) and I'm getting a consistent click and awesome hits.
Im using rubies and heating with a torch (cap fully open with the stem almost closed) and I'm getting a consistent click and awesome hits.
Falconflys
Well-Known Member
Hey all....Received my T2 a couple days ago. Been absolutely loving it but still getting it dialed in. The issues im having is that the indicator seems to move kinda stop and go. Not as smooth as my T1. also the clicks....the first happens around the first notch or slightly after and the 2nd is about at the 2nd notch. but the indicator also stops at about the 2nd notch. no matter how hot i get it, it won't go to the 3rd notch.
Any advice, I'd appreciate it.
also all this with torch to see the indicator
Hey I think I just found something....I'm sure the disc's should be in the head like in the T1 opposite each other.
I just disassembled and it seems they were the same way!
So reassembling and we will see
Any advice, I'd appreciate it.
also all this with torch to see the indicator
Hey I think I just found something....I'm sure the disc's should be in the head like in the T1 opposite each other.
I just disassembled and it seems they were the same way!
So reassembling and we will see
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Sorry for the inconvenience, please try to unscrew the indicator housing and check if the outer end of the spring is in it’s place within the side wall.
Falconflys
Well-Known Member
Hey @Brenyo thanks for the response.
I just got it back together with the disc's the right way I think.
Giving it a go now...ill give an update shortly
Yeah idk....I've got to heat for a while to get to the 3rd notch. Damn hot!
It's clicking on the 2nd notch with so-so results.
I ran it empty to get it up to the 3rd notch
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General Disaster
Schrödinger's rat!
I've read here some people have had what sounds like a similar issue, and have fixed it by either manually moving the indicator by hand to smooth any slightly rough edges in the slots it shows through. In some cases I think some have dismantled the indicator housing to use some fine abrasive to smooth it down. I think there's also been an issue where the indicator housing has been heated too much and the spring that moves the indicator needs reseating - but this may be less likely your issue.
{edit} Sorry - I should have refreshed the screen - just seen Brenyo's replied.
{edit} Sorry - I should have refreshed the screen - just seen Brenyo's replied.
Falconflys
Well-Known Member
Do you have a choice of spiral? Mine only has 1 spiral
HaggisHunter
Well-Known Member
There's only one with the device itself. There is another with more twists coming when the device fully launches, not available yet.
SpinachTrooper
New Member
Hi guys, how can I undo anodization on my Tempest 1? I'd like it to be the same "color" (raw titanium) as my Tempest 2. Thanks.
HaggisHunter
Well-Known Member
To get the T1 back to raw and polished will take a lot of work....
It's not easy and there's issues with every method, due to the complexity of it's design, it's going to be really difficult to get all the little intricate bits without the right gear.
Was the blue anodised, or was it a coating? I can't remember.
_Eladamri_
Active Member
it's not gonna be a walk in the park.... i've always considered anodization as a final irreversable step - let us know if you figure it out !
General Disaster
Schrödinger's rat!
It's a thin layer of oxide on the surface of the metal, but not irreversible. The thickness effects the colour (if you want to know how you'd best read up on quantum physics!
), and this can be removed by various methods which others here know better than I, but as @HaggisHunter says, it's those small intricate parts where it may be harder to get to (e.g. with physical abrasion). I believe Ti is a difficult metal to work with in general being so hard.
jbm
Well-Known Member
Arrived, no extra charges. Put about 5 bowls through it so far. First 3 native, last couple with airport closed through a (carbed) Prophet. Great taste so far, getting good AVB in one heat cycle. Wand with v1 adapter, working fine.
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