Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
tb42091
Well-Known Member
Personally my dabbing/double decker range is 620-670F, I'm sure some people find dabs at 670F a little harsh but it helps the flower bowl and the dab finish in similar lengths of time.
Those are some nasty burns, I learned early on to not reach over the stand when the head is hot
I have been staying with family since early July and been using concentrates only. Started my 2000 mile trip back today and ill be back with my flowerpots on Sunday. Looking forward to using it again!
Those are some nasty burns, I learned early on to not reach over the stand when the head is hot
I have been staying with family since early July and been using concentrates only. Started my 2000 mile trip back today and ill be back with my flowerpots on Sunday. Looking forward to using it again!
Summer
Long Island, NY
The worst vape burn I ever got was when I, quite naturally, lowered my hand to my lap & I had the hot-tipped vapcap in the hand. Lowered in right on my inner thigh ... wearing shorts. Ouch! That was truly painful & oozed for days. But the very worst was when I put the heated M tip (backwards) to my lips to take a hit. My lips smarted for days. Imagine how uncomfortable it would be to live with the mouth burn you get from pizza for days. 
So, the point of my post is that if this is what happens from just a tiny vc cap smaller than a dime, I don't even want to fathom what a burn from a FP head would feel like. Even though I can imagine the pain, I don't want to even entertain the thought of it. And I agree with @arb, it could very well lead to a stint at the ER - which only makes a bad situation even worse.
So, the point of my post is that if this is what happens from just a tiny vc cap smaller than a dime, I don't even want to fathom what a burn from a FP head would feel like. Even though I can imagine the pain, I don't want to even entertain the thought of it. And I agree with @arb, it could very well lead to a stint at the ER - which only makes a bad situation even worse.
Zoltani
Well-Known Member
Well a hot vapcap to the lips sounds pretty bad to me! The FB head is running so hot that I dread the day I burn myself with it. The rules I have are don't reach across it, keep on stable surface when not in use, don't use drunk, and use the auto timer.
If you happen to just drop the PF head in your lap it would be unimaginable. Now that I think about it, I often sit back on the couch using the FP, taking my hand off and just letting the FP head sit on the bowl while inhaling. Just thought of a new rule, always keep hand on handle when not using on a table.
If you happen to just drop the PF head in your lap it would be unimaginable. Now that I think about it, I often sit back on the couch using the FP, taking my hand off and just letting the FP head sit on the bowl while inhaling. Just thought of a new rule, always keep hand on handle when not using on a table.
Rastakolnikov
Well-Known Member
Ignore the old reviews on the page. I bought one last month and it's the angled 1 hole cap.
someTooL
Well-Known Member
To compare temps. Sticky Icky live resin tonight at 635 in the dish. GG4 in the glass 18mm. First attempt at a double decker and a total success. I was a little nervous about adding the dab to the dish but no burns and covered nicely. Remembered to spin the carb cap about 1/2 way through the first pull. Added maybe a little too much. Maybe.
murf2010
Well-Known Member
I need to watch a few dab videos before I do my first on the vrod
Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
Perhaps you can start by watching some Double Double Deckers...
Stay vaped!!!
Mantente de la mente!!!
or just a single Double Decker
Imho & e less is more in a VROD dab.
I always try to do small rice grain size dabs, no pooling, no caking between SiC dish & Ti top VROD head nut.
I try to keep temperatures between 555F or lower than 606F.
(I’ve measured the SiC dish with an IR heat gun, and there’s a big difference between PID reading and SiC real temperature inside and at the bottom of the dish, like a good -50/100F plus, I can’t really recall now)
I try to dab on the external inside wall of the SiC dish, not next to the retaining top dish nut, if you dab close to that nut, caking and residue could get down the convection shaft, it wouldn’t affect performance, but it could result in unwanted flavors and harder cleaning/disassembling the VROD head.
Bigger dabs will also take longer to finish and the longer they take, the flavors decays.
Do not let the carb cap sit too long on top of the VROD without inhaling and working the dabbing, it will get really hot, it will dry the dab and cook it, becoming stale.
Try NOT to fell in the “terp pearls” trend, they don’t add imho & e anything good to the experience, rather than unwanted caking, residue, harder to clean, risk of flying hot pearls, and they’re a pita to clean if you are doing back to back dabs, or have more people waiting.
They will keep smoking after the dab is finished, if not properly cleaned, they’ll stank your room, same smell and smoke you’ll get if you don’t q-tip the SiC clean after dabbing.
Flying HOT pearls aren’t cool at all !!!!
Q-tip with distilled or plain water after a dab, and your SiC dish will stay pristine.
ISO will work too, but it’s a waste too.
Save and re-use/recycle the last q-tip, that one that’s used for drying or last touch, as first dry one for first cleanup after finishing the dab, makes sense??
DO NOT FORCE THE DABBER into the SiC dish, it’s hard, but it isn’t indestructible, I used to kind of dab with a firm hand in the past, like if I put pressure it will hit harder
, nope, same if you gently place the dab with your dabber, or just drop it inside the dish.
It’s for dabbing, not construction work!!
I have a D-Cup too, with SiC dish as well.
And a 710coils axial barrel coil, that I attach to the 30mm Toro Opaque Grail Quartz banger.
But after trying all kind of enails, Ti, SiC dishes, quartz dishes, etc etc, I always come back to the trusty and most flavorful of them all,
just the torch heated 30mm Toro Opaque Grail Quartz banger.
Any cold start quartz dab, or regular torch quartz dab will always taste better imho & e than any convection dab.
I used to have my doubts before, but after several years of dabbing from both, I have convinced myself, that torched quartz bangers are the best dabs.
You’ll still find skeptical people that will try to convince themselves that any kind of enail will taste better than the OG old school torched quartz banger.
Same reason real chefs cook with flames and not electricity, same reason a pizza taste better from a brick wood oven rather than a freaking pizza chain crapola.
They always tell you fire
& oils aren’t a good match, not in the dabbing world!!!
VROD and T-Bucket are good and nice, they do their job with excellent results, but they’re not the end of the road!!!
Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!
I remember I posted this video before, here’s again.
Aaaaa, just pure inert clean , all the way quartz to boro, and not adding any extras to the 550F heated 30mm Opaque Toro Grail bucket tasty dab.
Salud
Stay vaped!!!
Mantente de la mente!!!
or just a single Double Decker
Imho & e less is more in a VROD dab.
I always try to do small rice grain size dabs, no pooling, no caking between SiC dish & Ti top VROD head nut.
I try to keep temperatures between 555F or lower than 606F.
(I’ve measured the SiC dish with an IR heat gun, and there’s a big difference between PID reading and SiC real temperature inside and at the bottom of the dish, like a good -50/100F plus, I can’t really recall now)
I try to dab on the external inside wall of the SiC dish, not next to the retaining top dish nut, if you dab close to that nut, caking and residue could get down the convection shaft, it wouldn’t affect performance, but it could result in unwanted flavors and harder cleaning/disassembling the VROD head.
Bigger dabs will also take longer to finish and the longer they take, the flavors decays.
Do not let the carb cap sit too long on top of the VROD without inhaling and working the dabbing, it will get really hot, it will dry the dab and cook it, becoming stale.
Try NOT to fell in the “terp pearls” trend, they don’t add imho & e anything good to the experience, rather than unwanted caking, residue, harder to clean, risk of flying hot pearls, and they’re a pita to clean if you are doing back to back dabs, or have more people waiting.
They will keep smoking after the dab is finished, if not properly cleaned, they’ll stank your room, same smell and smoke you’ll get if you don’t q-tip the SiC clean after dabbing.
Flying HOT pearls aren’t cool at all !!!!
Q-tip with distilled or plain water after a dab, and your SiC dish will stay pristine.
ISO will work too, but it’s a waste too.
Save and re-use/recycle the last q-tip, that one that’s used for drying or last touch, as first dry one for first cleanup after finishing the dab, makes sense??
DO NOT FORCE THE DABBER into the SiC dish, it’s hard, but it isn’t indestructible, I used to kind of dab with a firm hand in the past, like if I put pressure it will hit harder
, nope, same if you gently place the dab with your dabber, or just drop it inside the dish.It’s for dabbing, not construction work!!
I have a D-Cup too, with SiC dish as well.
And a 710coils axial barrel coil, that I attach to the 30mm Toro Opaque Grail Quartz banger.
But after trying all kind of enails, Ti, SiC dishes, quartz dishes, etc etc, I always come back to the trusty and most flavorful of them all,
just the torch heated 30mm Toro Opaque Grail Quartz banger.
Any cold start quartz dab, or regular torch quartz dab will always taste better imho & e than any convection dab.
I used to have my doubts before, but after several years of dabbing from both, I have convinced myself, that torched quartz bangers are the best dabs.
You’ll still find skeptical people that will try to convince themselves that any kind of enail will taste better than the OG old school torched quartz banger.
Same reason real chefs cook with flames and not electricity, same reason a pizza taste better from a brick wood oven rather than a freaking pizza chain crapola.
They always tell you fire
& oils aren’t a good match, not in the dabbing world!!!VROD and T-Bucket are good and nice, they do their job with excellent results, but they’re not the end of the road!!!
Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!
I remember I posted this video before, here’s again.
Aaaaa, just pure inert clean , all the way quartz to boro, and not adding any extras to the 550F heated 30mm Opaque Toro Grail bucket tasty dab.
Salud
Last edited:
Rastakolnikov
Well-Known Member
Maybe I am just unskilled with a torch, but i think the T-Bucket/sapphire dish combo is on another level for flavourful big hits.
Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
Old videos with different rigs.
D-Cup and axial coil are resting unused.
Still plain old torched quartz tastes better.
Through a Clear Möbius Matrix...
Thrhough a Boom Felazi RBR....
D-Cup and axial coil are resting unused.
Still plain old torched quartz tastes better.
Through a Clear Möbius Matrix...
Thrhough a Boom Felazi RBR....
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Welcome to the family!
Dargin B
Well-Known Member
I brought my whole set up on vacation this weekend except for the bowl and now I've been reduced to taking bong rips. I'm now in the position of trying to get as much smoke in my lungs with a beaker than I do vapor with my WE. How times have changed! I'd love to be able to taste this Billy Kimber OG and Cake Mints 
arb
Semi shaved ape
Has it maimed you yet?
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
635F is the temp I've been using most of the time so far.
murf2010
Well-Known Member
Because I’m just learning; how do you usually use the carb cap while drawing with the vrod? Like how long do you hold it there? Lift it? Etc
Just long enough to aid vapor production. Leave it on too long and you will combust.
tb42091
Well-Known Member
Conversely, for flower I leave the carb cap on 100% of the time. IMO it makes the AVB more consistent without stirring and it gives me bigger hits while being less focused on my draw speed.
I got to use my FPs for the first time in 3 months last night, and was able to finally test out my Designer Sci glass gridded inline - a great combo! I drilled an extra hole in my showercap a while ago and am enjoying the performance since I leave it on the head.
I got to use my FPs for the first time in 3 months last night, and was able to finally test out my Designer Sci glass gridded inline - a great combo! I drilled an extra hole in my showercap a while ago and am enjoying the performance since I leave it on the head.
Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
Many variables and many different techniques and different people.
Different weeds and humidity and grinds.
Different PID controllers.
Different countries, rest of the world runs on 210-220V 50Hz.
Remember that “americans are super proud” of being “different of the rest of the world” by their measurements systems.
“america runs on 110V-60Hz”
While the rest of the world runs on 210-220V-50Hz, because it’s better for improving delivery of electricity to population.
That’s what I read.
Always saying they want “equality, but they go against the rest of the world, always”
Go figure “north americans”
Many variables will affect capping the FP heads lineup.
It all depends on the temperature, in my experience, and bowl load amount and drawing too, to leave or not to leave a carb cap all the time on top of a VROD or SH.
Imho & e, If you go above 666F and you don’t crank your draw speed, you’ll most likely combust.
If someone has a different experience, please POST A VIDEO as proof, words are so lightweight, that even thoughts blow them away
I tend to use any FP lineup flower head (SH,VROD,WE) not above the 666F numbers on the PID controller.
If I cap till the end of the hit, more than 0.15-0.25g at 666F, and depending on weed grind and moist, it will most likely combust.
I’ll be pushing it and risking combustion.
Same with the 666F WE plus inverted 565F SH combos, it’ll combust at some point, if I don’t apply the right technique.
Below or at 636F, capping will be a not brainer.
You can try it and dial it pretty fast.
Best way, to test.
Load a lightweight spoon of weed in your Ti bowl if possible.
In my case, Ti bowls are less prone to combustion.
Like a fluffy 0.1g, that will probably barely cover the bowl screen. Better that way. If load is packed, it’ll combust easier.
Try to start at 565F and cap it.
I’d draw as slow as possible, trying to risk combustion, that way you’ll minimize error, by mimicking worst case scenario, or a friend that isn’t experienced with vaping.
Makes sense??
Imho & e, trying to combust will teach and train you how NOT to combust.
From watching your slow capped hit ABV, you’ll start by going up in temperature, I’ll go by 15-20F increments, always capped, letting it heat soak for a few minutes before hitting it slow again.
WARNING
DO NOT LEAVE the FP head sitting on the bowl all the time, it’ll add a lot of conduction/radiation, your herb will dry a lot, and you’ll most likely risk combustion.
I’d say, that following this technique, you’ll most likely dial your capped dry flower FP hits.
Most likely you’ll be setting between the 606F-636F.
At or above 636F, your technique and bowl prep will play an important role in combustion or not.
By the way, I like my ABV very very dark brown black chocolate, my last hit will be wispy and flavorless, with a hint of popcorn.
Since I like to finish my bowls at 666F capped, I’ve dialed it to cash it like that, so my before last hit vapes all the goods, and I don’t need to push it to that last wispy flavorless one.
All this experiment I talked befis with a slow to regular draw.
If you dial it for yourself at a high speed draw, you’re going to really like it too, but if you share it often, people that don’t know, might combust easier.
Higher speed draws need higher temperatures too.
If you have visitors, or friends, most likely someone that never experienced a FP, and you don’t assist them, it’ll draw at a regular slow pace, with your capped FP, dialed to your high speed technique, and it can end up in combustion.
Do the slow draw while experimenting for yourself, and reach that technique first, then you can start playing with the higher temperatures.
Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!
P.s: sorry about the clacking, VIDEO is coming as proof
Loading bowls....
L-R to top row-bottom row...
Left side 14mm glass bowl is a mix of one hit ABV plus a few unvaped specks.
14mm Ti Panhead bowl
18mm Ti Shovelhead bowl
18mm glass bowl
18mm, Glass Symphony “funnel bowl”
14mm female post, Ti bowl NO screen with 0.05g microdose “Arizer EQ basket screen”(Amazon 15pcs $7 tops, avoid scalpers)
Glass Symphony at 793F
ShowerHead (SH) at 565F
OG VROD at 616F
WeedEater (WE) at 666F
Herborizer DigiTi at 696F
Almost ready for “Dracarys clouds”
Long story short of the video... Sour Tangie strain...
All capped or inverted convection heated airpath added...
Starts with
18mm glass bowl,
-SH 565F Stone Glass Works SGW Waffle perc, by Preston Hanna,
18mm TI shovelhead bowl
-VROD 616F SGW waffle perc
14mm female post Ti Shovelhead bowl
microdose 0.05g in arizer EQ basket screen
2013 OG LE Official FuckCombustion Showerhead Custom bubbler
WE at 666F capped with inverted SH at 565F
14mm glass bowl with ABV and fresh specks
2013 OG Mobius Clear Matrix
WE at 666F
14mm Ti Panhead bowl
Mobius Clear Matrix
I started with the WE, but then I change my stoner mind, and swapped heads,
VROD at 616F capped with native WE at 666F
to wrap up, and to compare a kind of normal draw at the FP lineup system,
the GS requires a full speed draw to release real dracarys powers....
that heater delivers, "stadium bowl" maybe soon, stay tuned...
18mm glass funnel bowl
Glass Symphony at 793 in the heater, 808 PID
Dracarys!!!!!!
Enjoy in 4K 60fps if it works, that's what the iPhone video camera says at least, who knows??
ABVs were all even,
-you can see in the second bowl from the left, Ti 18, a speck that’s a bigger chunk or a stick or center of the nug, I can break it after, no need to make a longer video
-the 3rd bowl from the right, the ABV vaped very well, but green specks vaped normal,
-Glass Symphony ABV has a smaller darker area because screen is tilted, and I don’t want to mess around with what already works well
In general they are pretty even.
I’d like to take more time in each draw to make them darker, but that will be a even longer video.
Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!
HD still processing
Different weeds and humidity and grinds.
Different PID controllers.
Different countries, rest of the world runs on 210-220V 50Hz.
Remember that “americans are super proud” of being “different of the rest of the world” by their measurements systems.
“america runs on 110V-60Hz”
While the rest of the world runs on 210-220V-50Hz, because it’s better for improving delivery of electricity to population.
That’s what I read.
Always saying they want “equality, but they go against the rest of the world, always”
Go figure “north americans”
Many variables will affect capping the FP heads lineup.
It all depends on the temperature, in my experience, and bowl load amount and drawing too, to leave or not to leave a carb cap all the time on top of a VROD or SH.
Imho & e, If you go above 666F and you don’t crank your draw speed, you’ll most likely combust.
If someone has a different experience, please POST A VIDEO as proof, words are so lightweight, that even thoughts blow them away
I tend to use any FP lineup flower head (SH,VROD,WE) not above the 666F numbers on the PID controller.
If I cap till the end of the hit, more than 0.15-0.25g at 666F, and depending on weed grind and moist, it will most likely combust.
I’ll be pushing it and risking combustion.
Same with the 666F WE plus inverted 565F SH combos, it’ll combust at some point, if I don’t apply the right technique.
Below or at 636F, capping will be a not brainer.
You can try it and dial it pretty fast.
Best way, to test.
Load a lightweight spoon of weed in your Ti bowl if possible.
In my case, Ti bowls are less prone to combustion.
Like a fluffy 0.1g, that will probably barely cover the bowl screen. Better that way. If load is packed, it’ll combust easier.
Try to start at 565F and cap it.
I’d draw as slow as possible, trying to risk combustion, that way you’ll minimize error, by mimicking worst case scenario, or a friend that isn’t experienced with vaping.
Makes sense??
Imho & e, trying to combust will teach and train you how NOT to combust.
From watching your slow capped hit ABV, you’ll start by going up in temperature, I’ll go by 15-20F increments, always capped, letting it heat soak for a few minutes before hitting it slow again.
WARNING
DO NOT LEAVE the FP head sitting on the bowl all the time, it’ll add a lot of conduction/radiation, your herb will dry a lot, and you’ll most likely risk combustion.
I’d say, that following this technique, you’ll most likely dial your capped dry flower FP hits.
Most likely you’ll be setting between the 606F-636F.
At or above 636F, your technique and bowl prep will play an important role in combustion or not.
By the way, I like my ABV very very dark brown black chocolate, my last hit will be wispy and flavorless, with a hint of popcorn.
Since I like to finish my bowls at 666F capped, I’ve dialed it to cash it like that, so my before last hit vapes all the goods, and I don’t need to push it to that last wispy flavorless one.
All this experiment I talked befis with a slow to regular draw.
If you dial it for yourself at a high speed draw, you’re going to really like it too, but if you share it often, people that don’t know, might combust easier.
Higher speed draws need higher temperatures too.
If you have visitors, or friends, most likely someone that never experienced a FP, and you don’t assist them, it’ll draw at a regular slow pace, with your capped FP, dialed to your high speed technique, and it can end up in combustion.
Do the slow draw while experimenting for yourself, and reach that technique first, then you can start playing with the higher temperatures.
Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!
P.s: sorry about the clacking, VIDEO is coming as proof
Loading bowls....
L-R to top row-bottom row...
Left side 14mm glass bowl is a mix of one hit ABV plus a few unvaped specks.
14mm Ti Panhead bowl
18mm Ti Shovelhead bowl
18mm glass bowl
18mm, Glass Symphony “funnel bowl”
14mm female post, Ti bowl NO screen with 0.05g microdose “Arizer EQ basket screen”(Amazon 15pcs $7 tops, avoid scalpers)
Glass Symphony at 793F
ShowerHead (SH) at 565F
OG VROD at 616F
WeedEater (WE) at 666F
Herborizer DigiTi at 696F
Almost ready for “Dracarys clouds”
Long story short of the video... Sour Tangie strain...
All capped or inverted convection heated airpath added...
Starts with
18mm glass bowl,
-SH 565F Stone Glass Works SGW Waffle perc, by Preston Hanna,
18mm TI shovelhead bowl
-VROD 616F SGW waffle perc
14mm female post Ti Shovelhead bowl
microdose 0.05g in arizer EQ basket screen
2013 OG LE Official FuckCombustion Showerhead Custom bubbler
WE at 666F capped with inverted SH at 565F
14mm glass bowl with ABV and fresh specks
2013 OG Mobius Clear Matrix
WE at 666F
14mm Ti Panhead bowl
Mobius Clear Matrix
I started with the WE, but then I change my stoner mind, and swapped heads,
VROD at 616F capped with native WE at 666F
to wrap up, and to compare a kind of normal draw at the FP lineup system,
the GS requires a full speed draw to release real dracarys powers....
that heater delivers, "stadium bowl" maybe soon, stay tuned...
18mm glass funnel bowl
Glass Symphony at 793 in the heater, 808 PID
Dracarys!!!!!!
Enjoy in 4K 60fps if it works, that's what the iPhone video camera says at least, who knows??
ABVs were all even,
-you can see in the second bowl from the left, Ti 18, a speck that’s a bigger chunk or a stick or center of the nug, I can break it after, no need to make a longer video
-the 3rd bowl from the right, the ABV vaped very well, but green specks vaped normal,
-Glass Symphony ABV has a smaller darker area because screen is tilted, and I don’t want to mess around with what already works well
In general they are pretty even.
I’d like to take more time in each draw to make them darker, but that will be a even longer video.
Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!
HD still processing
Last edited:
someTooL
Well-Known Member
@newvape918 Any of those 14mm glass bowls coming back in stock? And Btw, how about an ABV can
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
Agreed with most of the @Zangano Cruel informative post EXCEPT:
“Remember that “americans are super proud” of being “different of the rest of the world” by their measurements systems.
“america runs on 110V-60Hz”
While the rest of the world runs on 210-220V-50Hz, because it’s better for improving delivery of electricity to population.
That’s what I read.
Always saying they want “equality, but they go against the rest of the world, always”
Go figure “north americans”
Like to know where you “read” that?
Most Americans don’t know anything about electricity, so they certainly couldn’t be “super proud”, or not. It’s an OLD system we are basically stuck with, long before most were born. Any Americans, that are knowledgeable, certainly acknowledge that the 220v. system is superior!
I won’t comment on the last part of your quote above, as that’s just ignorant, and should not have been included in your otherwise informative post. Great photos as always....
“Remember that “americans are super proud” of being “different of the rest of the world” by their measurements systems.
“america runs on 110V-60Hz”
While the rest of the world runs on 210-220V-50Hz, because it’s better for improving delivery of electricity to population.
That’s what I read.
Always saying they want “equality, but they go against the rest of the world, always”
Go figure “north americans”
Like to know where you “read” that?
Most Americans don’t know anything about electricity, so they certainly couldn’t be “super proud”, or not. It’s an OLD system we are basically stuck with, long before most were born. Any Americans, that are knowledgeable, certainly acknowledge that the 220v. system is superior!
I won’t comment on the last part of your quote above, as that’s just ignorant, and should not have been included in your otherwise informative post. Great photos as always....
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I don't normally use the carb cap with flower.
I prefer the free-flowing air in the flowerpot when vaping flower only. If I want to draw as slow as the carb cap forces me to, I just draw that slow. I don't like the feeling of the restriction the carb cap adds, even when I'm drawing that slow.
I almost only use the cap when I'm using concentrates in my Vrod.