Sorry to hear of your problems, electronics can sometimes just 'break'. As @vapviking advised, you will have better luck with your problem by talking directly to customer service and letting them know you want the replacement...
Phone: 9095171100
XVape XLUX ROFFU
- Thread starter XpeeN
- Start date
Phone: 9095171100
Thank you for the info. much apricated.
WonderBread
New Member
I have been looking everywhere but I can’t find a good answer regarding the vapor path. The Roffu “appears” to have an isolated vapor path but nothing on their site description says that, I would think if it was isolated it would be a selling feature.
Does anyone know about the vapor path, I’m trying to avoid plastic in it if possible, at least near any heat. Any of you that own one, If you cover the holes while using it on the side does it totally stop being able to draw through it? That would pretty much tell me if it’s isolated or not. I don’t want to be breathing in any heated electronics. So far it meets all my other requirements but that is the only thing I am not sure of. Trying to find a nice small portable with the purest safest (material wise) vapor path with USB-C. I wish I could see the materials in the oven as well but I don’t think anyone has done a tear down of it yet
Does anyone know about the vapor path, I’m trying to avoid plastic in it if possible, at least near any heat. Any of you that own one, If you cover the holes while using it on the side does it totally stop being able to draw through it? That would pretty much tell me if it’s isolated or not. I don’t want to be breathing in any heated electronics. So far it meets all my other requirements but that is the only thing I am not sure of. Trying to find a nice small portable with the purest safest (material wise) vapor path with USB-C. I wish I could see the materials in the oven as well but I don’t think anyone has done a tear down of it yet
hinglemccringleberry
Well-Known Member
When I block the holes on mine it cuts out around 90% of it. I can still draw a tiny bit of air in.
I just tried with my 3x units and I can still draw while the inlet holes are covered (it just slows down the draw speed for me). The only time I have had no airflow was when I assembled the CU silicone incorrectly.
hinglemccringleberry
Well-Known Member
Yes I had to go verify after I posted that and then I edited my post. Read it again.I just tried with my 3x units and I can still draw while the inlet holes are covered (it just slows down the draw speed for me). The only time I have had no airflow was when I assembled the CU silicone incorrectly.
deadsouthernblake
Well-Known Member
Has anyone had trouble with the thicker screen that goes in the metal herb chamber not sliding into place but just falling on through. It looks like part of the rubber ring fitting that fits into the groves around the edges has come off. So is there maybe some type of fitting I could easily buy to replace the one that's melted so it will fit like it should??
Dumb Question......What are the couple of little extra O rings for that comes with the package? They look a little big to replace the O rings on the screen.
Dumb Question......What are the couple of little extra O rings for that comes with the package? They look a little big to replace the O rings on the screen.
Old Stoner1958
Well-Known Member
They are for the screen/filter in the glass or metal chambers
deadsouthernblake
Well-Known Member
Yea, I see that they do now, when I first tried them I thought they were just a hair to big to fit there because when I'd start to push the screen down into the chamber one side of the o ring would start to bunch up. But now it seems to be working fine.
Glad you worked it out, I too found the fit of the 0-ring a bit loose so I tried a few different sizes before settling on these to do the job a little better, pretty good upgrade for a couple dollars as the disc is held a little more 'snug',
Size...7.5x4.5x1.5mm
Philossifer
Member
Do you know if the o-rings mentioned above work for the heater too? I'm referring to the o-ring that requires the special removal tool?
I received the tool with a couple of extra o-rings, but I'm a pretty heavy user and would like to find a source for the heater o-rings. As you probably already know, XVape doesn't list the Roffu o-rings on their website.
BTW, XVape customer service is awesome, I received the tool and a couple of o-rings free for the asking, and shipping was very fast.
Petetbay
Well-Known Member
Still waiting on those.
Philossifer
Member
How long ago did you contact them? I contacted them on Saturday April, 1st and the tool and o-rings arrived 5 days later on Thursday April 6th.
Sorry @Petetbay, you will just have to work with our other fix for your problem as I was told they had abandoned that fix kit as being too fiddly...so you did well @philosopher.
They do all fit and the classifieds may help if you list all the models to get a wider audience.
Philossifer
Member
I wasn't sure where the o-ring was located. At first, I was poking around the middle section of the heater because there appeared to be an indentation. Then I realized that the o-ring is located at the bottom of the heater. Also, there was a piece of the old o-ring that either burned or melted onto the heater. That little piece of melted o-ring drove me nuts trying to remove it, and if you don't get all of the old o-ring out, the new o-ring won't seat into the groove.Sorry @Petetbay, you will just have to work with our other fix for your problem as I was told they had abandoned that fix kit as being too fiddly...so you did well @philosopher.
I think the tool is good, maybe better instructions would help. IMO, the biggest issue is if the old o-ring gets too worn out or burned, it makes it tough to remove.
That's why I'd like to find a source for the o-ring so I can change it before it gets too worn out.
Phil
deadsouthernblake
Well-Known Member
Where on the heater is there supposed to be an o ring? I want to think I remember seeing one somewhere around heater back when I first got it. But looking around that area now I don't see one at all.
The upper assembly of one of my two Roffus came apart. Referring to the exploded view in the manual the upper assembly has five components. The Zirconia Mouthpiece, Silicone Part, Zirconia Cooling Airflow Box, Cooling Cap and the grommet Filter. I now have seven components. The Cooling Cap is now three pieces. There is an almost square magnet inside which has become dislodged. It appears to have been glued into place? The cooling cap no longer is magnetically attracted to the main body. I can use a couple of pieces of tape to hold it in place.
I believe the glue melted and released the magnet causing the whole cooling cap to separate into three pieces including the magnet.
Can I just glue the magnet back in place? What kind of glue? A drop of epoxy? Epoxy doesn't always work well with plastic and what about the heat?
Is my vaping style at fault? I have been using three minute session mode at 320°F/160°C. It is almost a continuous draw throughout the three minutes. As soon as I exhale I start the next draw and continue until the session expires. The mouth piece does get progressively warmer approaching hot. I had recently increased the temperature on the failed Roffu to 340°F/171°C still using three minute sessions which I am guessing may have cause the failure.
Any thoughts??
I believe the glue melted and released the magnet causing the whole cooling cap to separate into three pieces including the magnet.
Can I just glue the magnet back in place? What kind of glue? A drop of epoxy? Epoxy doesn't always work well with plastic and what about the heat?
Is my vaping style at fault? I have been using three minute session mode at 320°F/160°C. It is almost a continuous draw throughout the three minutes. As soon as I exhale I start the next draw and continue until the session expires. The mouth piece does get progressively warmer approaching hot. I had recently increased the temperature on the failed Roffu to 340°F/171°C still using three minute sessions which I am guessing may have cause the failure.
Any thoughts??
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
I don't think the temps and times you mention could be wrong. I do way more extreme things with mine and it gets hot but doesn't fall apart. It's something else that happend or a defect... But this happened to me with my xmax vr3 pro which is kind of week and I force it a bit. The roffu is way more effective at high temps for me. You can always put it back with a bit of paper to fit snug and see if it stays. See if you have warranty if not. But put it with the right pole right away if you put it wrong you could force it to take it off and damage it. Also you don't need to take off this part when it's hot to see your load. Unlike the v3 pro where it's the bowl opening.The upper assembly of one of my two Roffus came apart. Referring to the exploded view in the manual the upper assembly has five components. The Zirconia Mouthpiece, Silicone Part, Zirconia Cooling Airflow Box, Cooling Cap and the grommet Filter. I now have seven components. The Cooling Cap is now three pieces. There is an almost square magnet inside which has become dislodged. It appears to have been glued into place? The cooling cap no longer is magnetically attracted to the main body. I can use a couple of pieces of tape to hold it in place.
I believe the glue melted and released the magnet causing the whole cooling cap to separate into three pieces including the magnet.
Can I just glue the magnet back in place? What kind of glue? A drop of epoxy? Epoxy doesn't always work well with plastic and what about the heat?
Is my vaping style at fault? I have been using three minute session mode at 320°F/160°C. It is almost a continuous draw throughout the three minutes. As soon as I exhale I start the next draw and continue until the session expires. The mouth piece does get progressively warmer approaching hot. I had recently increased the temperature on the failed Roffu to 340°F/171°C still using three minute sessions which I am guessing may have cause the failure.
Any thoughts??
Edit : while I think it your temps are low but this continuous draw for 3 minutes is unusual and certainly not the projected use of the device... I end it in max temp but never hit it for more than 30_ 40 seconds. Generally 10-15...
Last edited:
Thanks for the response. I think it needs the magnetic force to hold the cap to the body. I don't know where I would insert paper. There is an internal piece of plastic? that is visible when you look at the cap from the bottom. The magnet was glued to the inside of this plastic. The magnet then holds this piece of plastic to the rest of the cap. Then the whole cap assembly is held to the body using this magnet which now acts a unit with the rest of the cap.
The way I see it I can tape the cap to the body, glue the magnet in place or buy a replacement for $35.
I don't understand? the right pole?? I reassembled it without the magnet with the components in the proper order and used a couple of pieces of tape to hold it into position and it works that way but I would rather not have to deal with tape.
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
If it's set the right way for the magnets and they don't repell it's OK.
What I was saying is to try to put a bit of rolling paper on the side to see if it can stay force fitted in the hole. I would hesitate to put any glue personnaly or think about what it's made off.
What I was saying is to try to put a bit of rolling paper on the side to see if it can stay force fitted in the hole. I would hesitate to put any glue personnaly or think about what it's made off.
We have had a few examples with cracks appearing on the black plastic in the bottom of the CU but this is the first time I have heard of a full separation.
That is what was suggested when the magnets came loose in the V3Pro but not sure how the Roffu internals work in regards to retaining the magnet.
The mouthpiece is classed as a consumable part and is not normally covered by warranty, as per the XVAPE website only the body of the unit is covered and all other parts are classed as consumable (unless it was obviously broken/unusable when new/received of course).
@Sativapo ( Daprezz) do you use iso to clean the CU. I have dunked my whole CU in 100% iso but never soak it, just a quick dip on occasion even though it is not recommended and I have had no problems with my cooling units.
Almost at the bottom of the heater post inside the body of the unit, it can be seen with a jeweler's loop and good light (it is what the oven/roasting tube interference fits onto when installed on the unit)...if you squint!
Philossifer
Member
This is what happened to mine. (see pic) I think in my case it was a manufacturing defect because tiny cracks appeared after the first use. By day two or three, this is how it looked. The magnet is very strong and can cause the mouthpiece to snap fairly hard onto to the body; I bought a new mouthpiece and now I'm very gentle with it when placing onto the main body. No problems so far.
I wouldn't use any glue or epoxy because of fear of inhaling the fumes.
Phil
If this happened so soon after getting it you should have contacted where you got it from straight away as it should last for some time even though it is considered a consumable.
I do like your point about the strong magnets 'snapping' into place as being a possible culprit for cracking as I have not seen any in my own units but I do employ 'mechanical sympathy' with all my vapes (my Ghost Mv1 latch still works great by simply not snap closing it).
Darr1
Well-Known Member
Saw this yesterday and thought I'd try it this evening !!! Different vape entirely. Thanks for that
