Leolo

New Member
[

@Leolo
If you can't get it back to default, try flashing the memory while updating with the Arctic Fox software. I described it a few posts before already. Only make sure to set your unique resistance afterwards.
This should rule out any settings problems.

Thanks for the advice! Might try that. But it's really my last resort since these kinds of tasks usually are very time consuming for me..

:peace:[/QUOTE]
 

Leolo

New Member
Oh I was not recommending you switch to AF. Tuboevic is definitely the way to go with the FJ's vapes. I was just wondering whether it exposed a parameter to set the mod internal resistance (ie. the fixed part of the equation that doesn't change with temperature)

Some posts above you said you resistance was constant 0.185 but then just above you said you upped it to 0.260? I think it should be set to whatever cold resistance reading you really get, not to what other users have. Every heater is slightly different.

M1 M2 and M3 are set to 185. Under coils next to Tubo: I've toyed with different settings .228-300. Right now its set to .228, but when i turn on my tubo the values on the screen reads PWR 70, Coil .282 temp 180.. The Coil value also jumps around while vaping. Is this normal?
 
Leolo,

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
Hey I just noticed that one coil seems to be much brighter during a warm-up and I used my cap stem for like the 3rd or 4th time and noticed that an area seemed more vaporized than the other areas in a s&b capsule. Is this normal?
 
Azn2101,

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Hey I just noticed that one coil seems to be much brighter during a warm-up and I used my cap stem for like the 3rd or 4th time and noticed that an area seemed more vaporized than the other areas in a s&b capsule. Is this normal?

No, I don't think so. Normally you're not looking for the coils to glow, I've only seen mine during warm-up from winter car cold, and never uneven.

Can I ask what temps you were at ?
 
MonkeyTime,
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Azn2101

Well-Known Member
No, I don't think so. Normally you're not looking for the coils to glow, I've only seen mine during warm-up from winter car cold, and never uneven.

Can I ask what temps you were at ?

Yeah thats the only time I see them too, I should've specified in Warm-Up mode can you see all 3 evenly? I figured that maybe because one is brighter than the other 2 on warm-up it could carry over to regular heating. Is there anyway to determine what coil is recieving a certain amount of power?

Im running it at 200c for half a cycle than finishing at 210-215. Ive never run it on-demand but I hear you have to run it a bit hotter than what you would on cruise control, no problems with that, just really love it in Cruise.
 
Azn2101,

almost there

Well-Known Member
Yeah thats the only time I see them too, I should've specified in Warm-Up mode can you see all 3 evenly? I figured that maybe because one is brighter than the other 2 on warm-up it could carry over to regular heating. Is there anyway to determine what coil is recieving a certain amount of power?

Im running it at 200c for half a cycle than finishing at 210-215. Ive never run it on-demand but I hear you have to run it a bit hotter than what you would on cruise control, no problems with that, just really love it in Cruise.
I was thinking that also bc 2 of the 3 coils heat brighter in warmup but once I turn off all the lights I confirmed all 3 were glowing. I get even heating so it’s not a concern for me at least
 
almost there,
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Azn2101

Well-Known Member
I was thinking that also bc 2 of the 3 coils heat brighter in warmup but once I turn off all the lights I confirmed all 3 were glowing. I get even heating so it’s not a concern for me at least

Ya see thats the thing, from reading the tips and tricks in the thread once I recieved real batteries (if you guys remember my ass bought Ebay batteries lol) to go in a dark area and look at to see them glow but not get like red RED. I just looked thru the slits at first and the one that gets super bright is also the same one that is facing the screen and I just figured they were all that color but for sure one gets brighter. Im not sure if its overcooking in that one area or undercooking in the other 2 areas but since I finally scrapped together enough for a Exotic Stem (stoked =D) to cover my other stem that was cracking but doesn't seem to be anymore after doing this test. So I got my brightest green material and loaded a s&b cap at cruise at 200c TStepping to 210-215c and there is an general darkened ABV but where in the area with the bright coil seems to be where there's darker ABV. Im not sure if it's cause im using the Apollo that it doesn't seem as powerful but with the Glass stem it seems to vape completely even but seems to take longer to finish or completely darken what I put in.
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
18650 issues to be aware of.

My Tubo vapes were not receiving the love and use they deserve. I wanted to really try using the dosing cap stems and the Tubos have more room in the female joint.

I pulled by Tubo and my Dual out and attempted to use them.

One of the cells from the Dual seems to be completely dead and the other registered 1.43 when put on the charger.

The Tubo og battery had also degraded, but it seems to charging.

Bottom line: If you are not planning on using your Tubo for more than a day or 2, remove the batteries.

Can't wait for the next drop!

Welcome to FC, don't wait for the next drop. If you want to purchase be in touch with @funkyjunky via private message.
 
sickmanfraud,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
The 1.43V cell is probably toasted too. You might recover it with a slow charge (provided your charger has such a recovery mode) but it's likely damaged internally. If you really want to keep using it, mark it clearly and keep it under close watch. If it sags too much or doesn't hold a charge (like dropping to less than 4V after 15 minutes removed from the charger) it's good for recycling (not the trash bin, nasty chemicals inside)

But yeah, as a rule of thumb, if your electronic device has a soft power button (something that is not a clear on/off two positions switch) then it's bound to consume some quiescent power and it will eventually discharge your cells. Some manage to completely open the circuit before they pass the 2.5V no-return voltage but some just keep drawing until it's too late.
 

Support@lamart

Company Representative (Lamart Tubo)
Company Rep
2a7zkb9.jpg


I'm testing a Vapcap to 18mm Capsule stem adapter at the minute - Any vapcap tip/stem can be used in the Tubo, such as this @phattpiggie beauty..

29xg4rs.jpg


We might get a few in stock with the next batch of stems, depending on when @Aezhenn can find the time :)

 

almost there

Well-Known Member
2a7zkb9.jpg


I'm testing a Vapcap to 18mm Capsule stem adapter at the minute - Any vapcap tip/stem can be used in the Tubo, such as this @phattpiggie beauty..

29xg4rs.jpg


We might get a few in stock with the next batch of stems, depending on when @Aezhenn can find the time :)

That adapter is awesome! I wonder is it possible to make one that hides the tip completely?
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
The 1.43V cell is probably toasted too. You might recover it with a slow charge (provided your charger has such a recovery mode) but it's likely damaged internally. If you really want to keep using it, mark it clearly and keep it under close watch. If it sags too much or doesn't hold a charge (like dropping to less than 4V after 15 minutes removed from the charger) it's good for recycling (not the trash bin, nasty chemicals inside)

But yeah, as a rule of thumb, if your electronic device has a soft power button (something that is not a clear on/off two positions switch) then it's bound to consume some quiescent power and it will eventually discharge your cells. Some manage to completely open the circuit before they pass the 2.5V no-return voltage but some just keep drawing until it's too late.

Is a 18650 cell that reads 0.00 safe to store, with regards to arching, until I can recycle it?
 
sickmanfraud,

leveltree

never wanted to beat that one ;)
Is a 18650 cell that reads 0.00 safe to store, with regards to arching, until I can recycle it?
I would say yes, since energy (and "current flow motivation") in it is basically gone and lithium batteries are mostly dangerous when unbalanced or overcharged, but KeroZene might say something different.
You should handle it carefully just in case and if you put it in something "unmeltable" like porcelain it should be fine. (of course don's keep it close to burnable stuff)

:peace:
 

nosmoking

Just so Dab HAppy!
I have an eVic Basic mod which I have installed the most recent firmware update from lamart.ch in the past 2 weeks.

The maximum temp I can set my device to is 500F. Is this because of the device or is that a limit set in that particular firmware? When I search for the max temp ratings on the device most websites state 600F. Is the maximum temp of 500F something that is part of the Tubo firmware?
 

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
I have an eVic Basic mod which I have installed the most recent firmware update from lamart.ch in the past 2 weeks.

The maximum temp I can set my device to is 500F. Is this because of the device or is that a limit set in that particular firmware? When I search for the max temp ratings on the device most websites state 600F. Is the maximum temp of 500F something that is part of the Tubo firmware?

Damn man what are you planning on vaping at 600F! Haha.

I think it's the TUBO Firmware but im in Celsius and not sure lol
 

nosmoking

Just so Dab HAppy!
Damn man what are you planning on vaping at 600F! Haha.

I think it's the TUBO Firmware but im in Celsius and not sure lol
I am working on a project that requires much more heat than we tradionally use. Basically I need a heater to run at 30 watts for about 50 seconds to get the object I am heating to the temp I want. If I use TC it takes much longer because the mod will bounce from 28/29 watts down to 1 or 2 watts or less. This becomes very counterproductive in my project. It would be idea to set the temp higher at like 600F to see if this would keep the watts higher early on in the cruise session.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Is a 18650 cell that reads 0.00 safe to store, with regards to arching, until I can recycle it?

At zero volt it's harmless and safe to recycle without any extra precautions.

I am working on a project that requires much more heat than we tradionally use. Basically I need a heater to run at 30 watts for about 50 seconds to get the object I am heating to the temp I want.

Then you would need some kind of cruise mode but in VW mode, not in TC mode. Don't know if FJ's firmware allows that has it's potentially dangerous.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Then you would need some kind of cruise mode but in VW mode, not in TC mode. Don't know if FJ's firmware allows that has it's potentially dangerous.

In Wattage mode, you can double-click (or whatever you've set up) to engage Cruise, which simply means the firmware is holding down the fire button for you. This is how I use it with my Splinter. I've set the timeout at 30 seconds. Sometimes I cut it off before the time is up, but I usually let it complete the cycle. I don't know about the Tubo, but I've not had an issue using it this way with the Splinter. What risks am I running?
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
You? Probably none! You know pretty much what you are doing. But say a 30 minutes (or worse, infinite as sur_myevic apparently can do) cruise mode in VW mode triggered by accident in a bag could set something afire.

As for RBT vapes, we know pretty well how over 5 minutes of accidental trigger time will make the wood char so much it's visible on the outside. I imagine it's even worse with the Splinter that has only a very thin layer of wood.
 

nosmoking

Just so Dab HAppy!
You? Probably none! You know pretty much what you are doing. But say a 30 minutes (or worse, infinite as sur_myevic apparently can do) cruise mode in VW mode triggered by accident in a bag could set something afire.

As for RBT vapes, we know pretty well how over 5 minutes of accidental trigger time will make the wood char so much it's visible on the outside. I imagine it's even worse with the Splinter that has only a very thin layer of wood.
Good thing this project only consists of glass and metal. I have been using cruise control in wattage mode for a couple days now with no issue. I really wanted TC to be an option for my project but I can always settle for VW. I am sure once I get it out in the wild, people will find ways to tune it in better but I am trying to have a steady baseline to start with.
 
nosmoking,
Placed an order recently and wondering exactly how to load a bowl on the tubo evic? Is there an image that shows exactly how to do so? Been reading up on the device and want to make sure I use it correctly when it comes.

Also, does it come with a battery? I didn't select that option when ordering.

Lastly, does anyone have experience with the short glass stem? Should I have opted for the long bent stem?

Any insight for a newb would be great!
 

caliganja420

Well-Known Member
Placed an order recently and wondering exactly how to load a bowl on the tubo evic? Is there an image that shows exactly how to do so? Been reading up on the device and want to make sure I use it correctly when it comes.

Also, does it come with a battery? I didn't select that option when ordering.

Lastly, does anyone have experience with the short glass stem? Should I have opted for the long bent stem?

Any insight for a newb would be great!

Hey there, the best way to load a bowl is in the wooden capsule stem with dosing caps, its very simple and clean.
Since you got a glass stem, its a bit tricky to pack it.
The most simple way is putting a basket screen half way down the stem, and packing that screen itself and give it a little tamp so it doesnt fall out into the heater screen, which it will anyway.
Also, putting the rimmed basket screen on top, might work but my stem joint is too long and doesnt accept a top hat screen.
Tubo does not come with a bettery, you could have ordered one when you purchased, or email lamart and ask to add it in to your order and you can pay for that seperately, i highly recommend getting at least 2 18650 batteries and a dual nitecore battery charger. I have never charged my tubo thru the micro usb port

Also the short stem is good if you dont use temperatures above 380, anything higher is extremely harsh and HOT. I would ask Lamart to switch that out asap

Next time, ask your question when you are curious, very often we see people complaining about products that they have NO CLUE about
 
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