TinyMight / TM 2

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
I dropped my tinymight from a 4ft bench to a concrete workshop floor today.

Same here, I once dropped the device ~4 feet with the long stem inserted on a carpet floor, not sure where exactly it got hit, but there was no damage done. It's most likely not unbreakable, but quite a sturdy thing.
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, read back a bit. Can't see how that would make any difference to the flavour whatsoever really. Seems like having something unnecessarily breaky just for the sake of it tbh

I had to contact Tinymight dude and he resent my order for 2 of the glass stem chamber sleeves. Ordered end of Feb and still not here...so he resent.

Anyway, I was thinking that probably nothing to gain from changing the metal sleeve to glass. But....if you take that metal sleeve out.....tell me what it smells like.

;)


Exactly. But it is obviously not keeping the stem from hitting the aluminum ring which is the reason for the breakages, in my opinion.

The only place the MP stem can touch anything when inserted...is the bottom area where it sits on the metal edge of the screen piece. At the top of the tube with the big o-ring....the stem never touches anything but that o-ring at any time.

So if anything is needed....it would be in the oven screen area. But I have not had any issues with that. I use my TM only upside down in a rig....so I put a good amount of torque on the stem area. If you are using the stock stems or using stems to draw directly to mouth.....your use is much less able to stress the stem or cause issues.....unless you drop it....haaaaa
 

dimmusp

Well-Known Member
Properly recessed screw; properly treated wood housing; mindful of protrusion of the adjuster dial; updated firmware to allow temp offset; optional quartz outer-tube in the air-path; insight from other user; and the peace of mind that this is now a well reviewed vape that seems to be ticking a lot of boxes. So while I am inventing things for VapCaps and Magic Flight Launch Boxes, I can wait for supply to catch up. When KG Woodcrafts gets them in stock, I have PayPal waiting.

I still want a sticky felt pad for the base though :2c:

Does anyone know if the latest hardware improvements get rid of the gap that lets some of the air go over the electronics?

(http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tinymight-vaporizer.44563/page-40#post-1440463)

I know that Ville said there is no cause for concern, but I'd rather have a fully clean air path from start to finish :)
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@LabPong - Indeed I understand the design concept and in practice I would expect you are absolutely correct. The o-ring will take significant torque.
I also understand the concerns on the other end.
 
TommyDee,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
The air has to go under the heater and the heater is on the PCB. Sealing that may be some effort.
 
TommyDee,

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
Does anyone know if the latest hardware improvements get rid of the gap that lets some of the air go over the electronics?

I don't think so, but when in doubt, ask the Tinymight dude himself. From what I understand the air is actually drawn from the tiny holes on top of the tube holder, I don't think much air is coming from the bottom and definitely no hot air is running over the electronics.

I'd be a bit careful with the list of upgrades @TommyDee provided here btw, it is anything but official and rather a collection of bits and pieces rumored in this thread.

The air has to go under the heater and the heater is on the PCB.

It is connected to the PCB, not *on* it.
 
mhh .. now I wonder if this is medically questionable, because you always hear that it is important that the air is separated from the electronics

Edit:
But I can hardly imagine that the developer did not think of separating them, especially with a vape in the price range
 
dynamonster,

Brewervapesalot

Well-Known Member
air is actually drawn from the tiny holes on top of the tube holder, I don't think much air is coming from the bottom and definitely no hot air is running over the electronics.

For sure. Air is dawn through the holes in the top, and directly under the coil. The coil is attached to electronics, but there is a gap between the coil and electronics. The way the air flows, not over any electronics, I haven't really given any more thought. For those concerned though, that's how it works.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Semantics, Siebter - both are true. It is in fact stood on a post on the PCB so air can get under it and wires too. Why do you need to start shit every time I post? Post a picture of it would be a lot more helpful.

20200307_003415.jpg


The board's majority components are not in the direct air path but they are in the cavity. The center screw to the right of the dial is what holds the coil to the board. Fiberglass outgasses at temperature (n) [epoxy]. I don't know how well this screw is isolated from the heat source. To date, I don't think we've seen a good image of the mounting of the coil or the materials involved near the heat source. I suspect Teflon is involved too. Teflon is good to 475'F in general before off-gassing.
 
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Siebter

Less soul, more mind
But I can hardly imagine that the developer did not think of separating them, especially with a vape in the price range

He is mindful of that, but also is transparent on how fully isolated the air path is. It's up to you to decide whether it's an issue.

The electronics sits on the metal plate at the bottom of the device. An small part of the electronics board is in the same air space than the airflow compartiment separated by a sheet of wood. The airflow is not completelly isolated since there are two holes in the sheet of wood, one for the coil connection and the other one to let the red led light pass thought the compartiment to the top of the glass stem.

I asked to the owner and he say that all parts and solder are according to specification following the RoHS directive and the air flow is not passing mainly through the electronics board and the hot air does not touch it. He also explained to me that the only harmful material when burned is the solder stop mask located in the battery contact spring but is on the other compartiment.

I don't see an issue at all, but I'm not a doctor.
 

Brewervapesalot

Well-Known Member
"the only harmful material when burned is the solder stop mask located in the battery contact spring but is on the other compartiment."

Edit:

Fiberglass outgasses at temperature (n) [epoxy]. I don't know how well this screw is isolated from the heat source

The bottom of the unit has not even got really warm or hot in my usage. Not even warm, although the wood will get warm, not hot. I suppose the some radiant heat gets to the electronics, from the battery compartment warming with use.

I guess I'm just not very concerned with the design. If the unit starts to burn, I'll throw away or send back?...
 
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Brewervapesalot,
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
I do see an opportunity - the board seals against the wooden housing and if there are no cuts along the heated chamber's cylinder, that makes this a passive seal from the electronics.

@Brewervapesalot - overall the heat is well managed. I have no concern that this is like every other vape that has electronics built in. Local hot-spots on circuit board could present a minute level of epoxy off-gassing like the region around the coil's mounting post. We have little in guidelines as to what is acceptable.

FR4 - a common PCB material, is functionally rated for 130'C. That means breakdown begins to happen at some margin over that.
 
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Brewervapesalot

Well-Known Member
@Brewervapesalot - overall the heat is well managed. I have no concern that this is like every other vape that has electronics built in. Local hot-spots on circuit board could present a minute level of epoxy off-gassing like the region around the coil's mounting post. We have little in guidelines as to what is acceptable.

Sounds possible, but pretty speculative. I guess I'm just not worried about it.

A whiff of gasoline at the gas station sounds more harmful and I dont really worry about such things.

Something for version 2 to improve as a selling point for some maybe.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Semantics, Siebter - both are true. It is in fact stood on a post on the PCB so air can get under it and wires too. Why do you need to start shit every time I post?

This is Not Nice so you shouldn't post it. If @Siebter is breaking a rule, report the post and do not respond. If you feel you must reply, use a PM. If no rule is broken, ignore it and move on. This is the internet, and those with thin skins should probably stay off.
 
pakalolo,

Tweakz

Well-Known Member
@TommyDee -I don't want to argue with you , but I've had my tm for almost a month, and I've been testing it hard and disassembling it. and never at the highest temperature did I notice any foreign tastes or smells. always only delicious and smooth vapor.


I also decided to check how well the tm and elev8r staf extraction is performed.
it is very surprising how tm can evenly and maximally evaporate everything

LXNnehZ.jpg
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
Fiberglass outgasses at temperature (n) [epoxy]

Then in general PCB's usually are good to about 125C or so.....there are different manufacturing practices now and they can be less harmful in things like vapes if they got "out-gassed" at the manufacturing end process.

But that said.....I'm super sensitive to taste and have no problem detecting taste-able and smell-able electronic emissions. I have no sense of it in the Tinymight air/vapor path and I did not worry or think of it because of that. I am always worried about this with any electronic vape. First thing I do is burn off several times and wipe with ISO every part in the path I can.

But sure....I'd luv to see the PCB area get sealed off from the airpath totally.
 
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