TinyMight / TM 2

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Sorry for asking again. What part of the warping/cover you all talking about? I have a pair old 18650 wrapped in tight blue plastic but after years some tiny bits plastic is worn off here and there and the blank metal of the battery starts to show. They still work great tbh but now I`m concerned, is it dangerous to still use them and if so, why is it dangerous?

BUY some wraps and terminal covers:



A heat gun works best, but a hot hair dryer can also work, takes longer…
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
noticed that there is a small learning curve though, I don't get consistent results. I'm not really used to the open airflow yet I guess. Tips are welcome :)

Best bet is to search the thread at the top, you can try the word "tips" perhaps since this question has been asked a lot, rather even without the question the answer is shared a lot, by many different members, who don't continually come back to repeat that information though... Not sure if you've ever used on demand pure convection, but it is pretty manual so yes it requires a lot of getting used to since there are so many variables involved in the use

Do y'all prefer a coarse or a fine grind?
With my old Mighty coarse seemed to work better, but maybe I should try a fine grind for the TM2.

Anything will work, comes with pros and cons, generally I like a nice consistent medium grind for the TM ideally... (BCG with any plate and OMD grinders)

Oh and ehm, has anyone tried using the Arizer Extreme Q dome screens in the Tinymight

No, you have to buy the rimmed screens from TM, those are the only ones that will fit properly... The other rimmed basket screens like the ones from EQ will not clear the o-ring when you try to remove the stem, it will cause the screen to pop out into the TM as you remove the glass... Pretty annoying lol I don't really like them anyway, better to use a rimless basket screen inside the stem, to have it be a little further away, better for various loads imo

Also, does anyone know if the Arizer Go batteries are compatible with this unit? I've got three of them (one Samsung and two NCR batteries) and a dual battery charger I'm hoping to reuse for this, but haven't installed one yet to try it out. I have a healthy respect for these batteries and realize the TM2 draws a lot more current than the Arizer.

No, no no, Arizer portables are pretty weak, they do not require much power, their batteries are not compatible with the demands of pure convection portables... Stick to molicel p26/8a, LG HG2/HE4, Samsung 25R, Sony VTC5/6 (ideally molicel)
 

Wozz

Well-Known Member
Got one of these delivered today. Not the cheapest (it‘s glass, so I’ll break it sooner or later :(), but really nice, very well made and it‘s delivering fantastic vapour.

I also picked up one of these this week from Azz.
I'll second that 💚, looks great,performs great, fantastic vapour 👍 couldn't be more happy. Also have a couple of his mouth pieces 💚
 
Wozz,
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
Even with my XTAR VP4 Dragon I still charge at 0.5A per cell, unless I find myself in a rush and need a faster charging speed. It's a good charger that's well reviewed but, I try to be as gentle as possible on my cells so they last a while.

You could limit the charging current of the TM by using a low output charger (0.5A for example) if you want to reduce the heat (and wear on your batteries).
 

TheDankness

Extremely Moist
No, no no, Arizer portables are pretty weak, they do not require much power, their batteries are not compatible with the demands of pure convection portables... Stick to molicel p26/8a, LG HG2/HE4, Samsung 25R, Sony VTC5/6 (ideally molicel)

thanks, I was fairly certain this was the case. I’ve ordered some molis from the battery store.
 

gangababa

Well-Known Member
I wanted to examine the heater/glass of my TM2 to see if it was broken. When I disassembled the device (just unscrewed the torx screws, nothing more) I looked at the control board and saw what look like burn marks. What are these? Is this safe to use in this condition? I have pics but cant figure out how to link https://www.reddit.com/r/Tinymight2/comments/14n0pet
It does look like electrical arching. The other side of the circuit board might better reveal damage.

You have done us all a service with the picture of the bottom of the body showing the plugged hole isolating the electronics.
The circuit board picture shows the holes in the board into which fit the metal pegs pictured below.
what-are-these-marks-v0-32xtf4i7s59b1.jpg
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Nyogel, huh? I recently cleaned my TM thoroughly but did not use Blu-Tac on the battery cap threads as I always I’ve always done. It’s almost like there’s sand in there now, it’s hard the screw the battery lid on - and it was always very smooth until recently for almost 3.5 years too.

I will try Blu-Tac in the morning. Just used my TM after coming home from a few days with family too. It’s such an important and excellent vape not to get those threads silky smooth again 🤞:peace:
 
Vaporific,
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Nyogel, huh?

You might find it cheaper, used by flashlight enthusiasts and manufacturers…..

NyoGel 760G Dielectric Synthetic Grease 50g (1.76oz) Tube​

keywords=Nye+Lubricants&qid=1688181532&sr=8-6

Originally posted 2020 here:

 

Varden

Well-Known Member
Is there any real-world difference between the different brand batteries that TinyMight recommends?

I use mostly the recommended Samsung 30Q because that is the one that I could easily source and I'm happy with it, but are the recommended Molicel, Sony or LG any better?
 

stuey

Well-Known Member
Is there any real-world difference between the different brand batteries that TinyMight recommends?

I use mostly the recommended Samsung 30Q because that is the one that I could easily source and I'm happy with it, but are the recommended Molicel, Sony or LG any better?
From what I have just read, the P28A / P26A has a much higher discharge current than the 30Q. 25A vs 15A. High discharge current is definitely something we want. The 30Q has a slightly higher capacity than the P28, 3000mAh vs 2800 mAh. Although capacity is something we also want 200mAh isnt going to really add much in terms of session length.

As for real world difference... I dont know perhaps get one and let us know! Basically the higher discharge current should mean the P28A has quicker heat up times. In terms of session length there shouldn't be any real noticeable difference.

If you are happy already then get the easier one to source as it should IMO only effect the length of heat up times and only by a few seconds.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
You might find it cheaper, used by flashlight enthusiasts and manufacturers…..

NyoGel 760G Dielectric Synthetic Grease 50g (1.76oz) Tube​

keywords=Nye+Lubricants&qid=1688181532&sr=8-6

Originally posted 2020 here:

Thank you, as always! I’ll put it on my online order list which I’ll be completing very soon. I did use Blu-Tac just now which made a big difference and the batt door screws on much better now than before. I also think the bottom contact is a bit more pressed in (without a battery inserted) than before, and it was slightly adjusted during my only RMA last year and it hardly had any spring before the RMA (my own doing). Nyogel will be good to have on hand anyway. Over the long weekend (for me) I’ll try to pull up the bottom battery contact. I can appreciate the TM2 battery door redesign - and look forward to having a TM2 someday…

But yeah, the TM rocks - every single time! :love::peace:
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
From what I have just read, the P28A / P26A has a much higher discharge current than the 30Q. 25A vs 15A. High discharge current is definitely something we want. The 30Q has a slightly higher capacity than the P28, 3000mAh vs 2800 mAh. Although capacity is something we also want 200mAh isnt going to really add much in terms of session length.

As for real world difference... I dont know perhaps get one and let us know! Basically the higher discharge current should mean the P28A has quicker heat up times. In terms of session length there shouldn't be any real noticeable difference.

If you are happy already then get the easier one to source as it should IMO only effect the length of heat up times and only by a few seconds.
I tried a 30Q in my orignal Tinymight a few years ago without issue. I do remember at least one member here that had issues with his 30Q cutting out as the cell voltage dropped, but maybe it was a weaker cell?
There were no differences in heat up time (same with the VTC6) compared to the Molicel.
My 26A's stay stronger as they drop I'm voltage, but that's more noticeable in my unregulated mods.
 
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