TinyMight / TM 2
- Thread starter kuzko
- Start date
Dayseed
Well-Known Member
I’ve recently stopped using the CU for the Tinymight. I’m mostly using it with a WPA and a few different stems. I prefer an all glass setup and it means one less thing to clean.
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Dr. Vaporific, I presume? So I’ve got my TM open - I’ve already lost the thin rubber gasket atop the glass cylinder and can’t find it at all! - even removed the haptic thingy from the rubber housing with fine point tweezers (Nurse Ratchett, scalpel please), slightly bent up the contacts and reinserted the haptic thingy in the rubber housing with tweezers.
So far so good except I still can’t fucking find the oring! Oh and the board is loose and can slide a bit in either direction. Any suggestions for this? Do I dare tighten the screw holding the heater to the board which may help? Sanding will commence momentarily!
Lastly, for the first time in 3 times now I’ve taken my TM apart, the heater ring BELOW the screen heater ring came out when I turned it upside down. I’ve seen it in a rare photo and mentioned sparingly but it’s not an albatross. Very interesting!
EDIT: This is getting weird. Not only did I find the clear oring, I found 2! I didn’t think I replaced the original with 2. They were stuck together. I wouldn’t have done that but I guess i did. Wow. Only one is going back in.
So far so good except I still can’t fucking find the oring! Oh and the board is loose and can slide a bit in either direction. Any suggestions for this? Do I dare tighten the screw holding the heater to the board which may help? Sanding will commence momentarily!
Lastly, for the first time in 3 times now I’ve taken my TM apart, the heater ring BELOW the screen heater ring came out when I turned it upside down. I’ve seen it in a rare photo and mentioned sparingly but it’s not an albatross. Very interesting!
EDIT: This is getting weird. Not only did I find the clear oring, I found 2! I didn’t think I replaced the original with 2. They were stuck together. I wouldn’t have done that but I guess i did. Wow. Only one is going back in.
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Djsleepy
Well-Known Member
Do not tighten screw on circuit board is what tinymight told me, they said as long as contacts on board can touch bottom lid don’t worry about it. Also re: two orings stuck together let us know it works better with the two or just one, thx!Dr. Vaporific, I presume? So I’ve got my TM open - I’ve already lost the thin rubber gasket atop the glass cylinder and can’t find it at all! - even removed the haptic thingy from the rubber housing with fine point tweezers (Nurse Ratchett, scalpel please), slightly bent up the contacts and reinserted the haptic thingy in the rubber housing with tweezers.
So far so good except I still can’t fucking find the oring! Oh and the board is loose and can slide a bit in either direction. Any suggestions for this? Do I dare tighten the screw holding the heater to the board which may help? Sanding will commence momentarily!
Lastly, for the first time in 3 times now I’ve taken my TM apart, the heater ring BELOW the screen heater ring came out when I turned it upside down. I’ve seen it in a rare photo and mentioned sparingly but it’s not an albatross. Very interesting!
EDIT: This is getting weird. Not only did I find the clear oring, I found 2! I didn’t think I replaced the original with 2. They were stuck together. I wouldn’t have done that but I guess i did. Wow. Only one is going back in.
Bad Dog
Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
good luck DrDr. Vaporific, I presume? So I’ve got my TM open - I’ve already lost the thin rubber gasket atop the glass cylinder and can’t find it at all! - even removed the haptic thingy from the rubber housing with fine point tweezers (Nurse Ratchett, scalpel please), slightly bent up the contacts and reinserted the haptic thingy in the rubber housing with tweezers.
So far so good except I still can’t fucking find the oring! Oh and the board is loose and can slide a bit in either direction. Any suggestions for this? Do I dare tighten the screw holding the heater to the board which may help? Sanding will commence momentarily!
Lastly, for the first time in 3 times now I’ve taken my TM apart, the heater ring BELOW the screen heater ring came out when I turned it upside down. I’ve seen it in a rare photo and mentioned sparingly but it’s not an albatross. Very interesting!
EDIT: This is getting weird. Not only did I find the clear oring, I found 2! I didn’t think I replaced the original with 2. They were stuck together. I wouldn’t have done that but I guess i did. Wow. Only one is going back in.
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
This was the biggest surprise during open vape surgery. I really thought there was only one in there because… when I originally attempted the @dzoinp heater screen mod, the original oring came out by accident and I couldn’t get it back in as it was too curly and such. And the fact I didn’t have much experience doing it. Oh and it got lost behind a radiator so I got a few replacements thrown in with an accessories order. I really though I put just one in but I was definitely surprised two came out a few hours ago. Twins! Martha, we have twins! I guess it worked fine but I’ll I’ll put one back in. I’m still scratching my head how there were 2 in there.
The wood body is sanded using 220 & 400 grit sandpaper very gently. I did one pass with 220 & a couple with 400, all the while being careful not to upset the circuit board which is a bit loose. Still would like to hear if anyone has any suggestions to tighten or adhere it better to the bottom of the body. Everything else is cleaned with ISO and doing some Blu-Tac on all threads soon. Indeed, a full out cleaning (stem & CU too). I’ll apply natural beeswax when it’s assembled though I could be tempted sooner rather than later while it’s still disassembled.
Stay tuned for more on As the Vape Turns (Burns would be more appropriate but fuck combustion!)
stonedmallone
Well-Known Member
Used the CU the first week or so. Stopped and haven't looked back since.
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
It’s alive! It’s alive! My TM survived surgery and I again have haptic feedback. I dispensed with the tinfoil shim under the top contact below the top plate because I couldn’t seat the plate on top with it. Which is strange because I had one there previously though a bit thinner. I didn’t bother either with the original and just bent the contact up carefully with a needle nose pliers (my fave tool). Time to do a burnoff then a fresh load to celebrate. And then some needed natural beeswax. The wood is already smoother from sanding; is used a nylon brush to brush it off and a few gusts of air to rid of any sanded particulate before I put it all together.
What’s less nerving about the thin oring atop the glass cylinder is that it fits snugly in the top plate when putting the top plate into the body. I got agita a few times thinking I’d never seat that sucker correctly but it’s quite easy when the top plate is off. BTW, a Torx 15 works too which is all I have. I know T-20 is optimal but use what you got if it works.
Where’s the damn indica?
What’s less nerving about the thin oring atop the glass cylinder is that it fits snugly in the top plate when putting the top plate into the body. I got agita a few times thinking I’d never seat that sucker correctly but it’s quite easy when the top plate is off. BTW, a Torx 15 works too which is all I have. I know T-20 is optimal but use what you got if it works.
Where’s the damn indica?
Bad Dog
Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
My tinymight has been sleeping the past few days while I've been playing with my other vapes. Had a nice stem of skunk haze and man do I still love this vape! she is still my number 1! slowly temp stepping from 2 to 8, so freaking smooth! its a utter delight
viceroy420
Well-Known Member
noticed my TM wasn’t firing like it used to, would barely get a ring on it at 10 and couldn’t ever get the green out of the bud.
tried loosening and readjusting, cleaned the contacts and tried the foil trick and that did not help.
I ended up recalibrating it, turned it on at 5.5 and moved/saved it to 7.5, thing is back to normal, ripping like asshole, has me afraid of combusting if i hit it too long at 10
tried loosening and readjusting, cleaned the contacts and tried the foil trick and that did not help.
I ended up recalibrating it, turned it on at 5.5 and moved/saved it to 7.5, thing is back to normal, ripping like asshole, has me afraid of combusting if i hit it too long at 10
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Check your orings especially the thin one atop the glass cylinder. I’ve been tempted several times in 18 months to recalibrate my TM but never have and it’s always something else that needs adjustment.
viceroy420
Well-Known Member
I disassembled and reassembled it like 4 or 5 times checking everything, helped maybe a tiny bit but not anything i could really notice. Only recalibrated it when nothing else workedCheck your orings especially the thin one atop the glass cylinder. I’ve been tempted several times in 18 months to recalibrate my TM but never have and it’s always something else that needs adjustment.
WisePenny
unknown. unmember.
Possibly that 2nd o-ring necessitated the shim!
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Perhaps. Never thought of that. I was incredulous when two came out. I was not expecting twins but both were in there. Luckily they held their shape well and only put back one (and stored the other; I have one or two extra too). The one that came with my TM in March ‘20 accidentally dislodged (my own doing) after about 9 months and was so curly I couldn’t get it back in. I’m more seasoned now with that oring meaning I don’t touch it unless necessary. Live, learn, vape
DarkLodge
Member
I broke my long stem a few weeks ago and replaced it with a grav octotaster filled with 6mm borosilicate balls for cooling. It’s light years better than stock with cooling unit. The vapor is so much cooler, it's easier to clean, now cooks the herb perfectly evenly, and tastes amazing. You can also remove balls to increase the bowl size. You don't need many of them for a significant impact on cooling:
Seriously, the flavor just lasts for hit after hit, the vapor is super cool, and cleaning is basically just a swish in ISO. No need to worry about o-rings or taking nuts and washers out of the CU.
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Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
These are my favorite 1-2 combination too. Use them both daily. The IO is my go-to out-and-about vape and the TM mostly stays at home. After my TM ‘surgery’ I can safely say its long term prognosis is excellent; vapor quality was improved a bit at lower temps, which I’ve been doing with all my vapes for a couple of months now. I’m still using hollow CUs (sans nuts & washers) for some cooling - and easier cleaning. TM is simply da bomb! Love it too after 18 months. TGIF to all!My favorite vapes . True portable heavy hitters . TM for 18 months. IO for 2 weeks . Very love it
Quick customer service/repair review for TM.
Recently the button on my Tinymight broke after 1 1/2 years of daily use, the pins on the board had come away this seems to be an early unit design fault that has since been redesigned.
It took a couple of emails to get TMs attention, the above image seemed to help get past the language barrier. The returns process was actually pretty smooth once they knew the problem and sent a DHL returns label. TM seems to have improved the customer service over the last year as email replies were within a few days.
Within a couple of weeks my unit had been repaired (new button style / redesigned board mount) and returned I didn't get a brand new unit like some others have experienced in this thread, just my old one repaired but overall happy with the service. The new button has a much better feel to it very sturdy and no cost to me.
Well, i bought a Dynavap as a stop-gap while TM was away. VAS is real
Recently the button on my Tinymight broke after 1 1/2 years of daily use, the pins on the board had come away this seems to be an early unit design fault that has since been redesigned.
It took a couple of emails to get TMs attention, the above image seemed to help get past the language barrier. The returns process was actually pretty smooth once they knew the problem and sent a DHL returns label. TM seems to have improved the customer service over the last year as email replies were within a few days.
Within a couple of weeks my unit had been repaired (new button style / redesigned board mount) and returned I didn't get a brand new unit like some others have experienced in this thread, just my old one repaired but overall happy with the service. The new button has a much better feel to it very sturdy and no cost to me.
Well, i bought a Dynavap as a stop-gap while TM was away. VAS is real
Djsleepy
Well-Known Member
TM told me they had changed how button was attached to board when my first unit broke after a week. Mine literally was on four stilts(legs fully extended) and not actually touching board
. On another note: love my replacement I got! It’s been in heavy rotation.... love those giant hits that make me cough up a
! Have a good weekend!
florduh
Well-Known Member
I have almost the same setup! I basically took every internal part of the cooling unit out and used the top part to hold the balls in. Though, that still leaves metal in the vapor path. I went that way instead of using a screen, mostly because it looks cooler. I also hate it when my balls go flying, so I went with a more secure option.
It's so cool, I rarely want water filtration.
DarkLodge
Member
Funny enough, that's exactly how I cracked my long stem. The CU got wedged in there and attempting to move it shattered the stem. With my current setup, the glass screen of the octotaster keeps the balls from moving up, and the basket screen keeps them secured from below. After a couple of sessions, the resin build-up on the balls further secures them. The setup also allows me to easily adjust the bowl size by adding and removing balls in seconds.
florduh
Well-Known Member
Interesting. It is weird to pop the CU housing out since the bottom of the GRAV is sealed. I just use a long metal dab tool and stick it through the bottom, popping the CU out. Thanks for the warning though. I've also used the top and bottom of the CU without any washers in it to hold a bunch of balls in the long standard glass tube. More metal but easier to pop out.
I'd kill for an all glass cooling stem. Something with the balls permanently held between two glass stoppers. @invertedisdead also had a really cool looking glass cooling stem concept a few pages back.
jasp3r
Well-Known Member
Did you have to use any o rings?
Dayseed
Well-Known Member
Nope. This setup only works because the tapered mouthpiece will fit into the stem like you might use an MVS with a water piece.
The inner diameter of the stems varies quite a bit and I know some people who've been able to use the MVS in the correct orientation with o-rings. It's just bad luck that none of my glass stems have a wide enough ID.