TinyMight / TM 2
- Thread starter kuzko
- Start date
scooterboy
Muppet, not moped.
Yes I'm sure I have some around here in my workshop somewhere. :thinker:That’s odd. I guess not all cooling units are the same, or maybe yours is just different. Mine has all the washers and nuts. Easy enough to remedy - either contact the maker or go to a hardware store for a few pennies if you don’t have the same size lying around.
It’s almost TM time for me!
Yes I'm sure I have some around here in my workshop somewhere. :thinker:
With only the nuts inside the CU, it remains efficient.
Since yesterday I use my Cooling Unit (I didn't abbreviate it because CU means ass in portuguese, and it didn't sound right
) with only the nuts inside. The two parts of the CU are touching each other.Yesterday I could hear them tinkling freely when shaking the TM, today I already feel a stickier sound. Probably tomorrow they will not be heard. It can be a good warning for cleaning, right?
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LabPong
Well-Known Member
Seriously....both units I got had lots of dark material come off my ISO qtip.....not water or dry qtip!
Just take a ISO qtip to any of the threaded areas ....then take off your top aluminum piece without the bottom separating from the body.....then wipe off the underside of the top aluminum piece....you will understand then.
I pretty much got dark stuff off almost every aluminum part on both the TM's I have one early and one just recently.
I do not have that mark/material on any of the cells I use for my TM's. That is why I thought the manufacturing oil residue was what you are seeing there.
It also could be from how far you tighten down the lid....it can turn a ways past the point of when it buzzes from sensing the cell. I usually just go no more than 1/3 a rotation after the buzz.
Just take a ISO qtip to any of the threaded areas ....then take off your top aluminum piece without the bottom separating from the body.....then wipe off the underside of the top aluminum piece....you will understand then.
I pretty much got dark stuff off almost every aluminum part on both the TM's I have one early and one just recently.
Machining oil after 6 months of use ... my TM must have a carter somewhere.
It's aluminum residue resulting from opening and closing the battery door.
I do not have that mark/material on any of the cells I use for my TM's. That is why I thought the manufacturing oil residue was what you are seeing there.
It also could be from how far you tighten down the lid....it can turn a ways past the point of when it buzzes from sensing the cell. I usually just go no more than 1/3 a rotation after the buzz.
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Tweakz
Well-Known Member
@scooterboy - and here is my variant of using cu . only three parts inside
dude you really made me laugh. I don't know how , I have a large volume of lungs( in the past I played football) and I like hard hits . quick extraction is my choice.
I know what are you talking about.
It's aluminium dust...the same i found in my plenty. It came from aluminium and ss friction
I'm not worried at all, it's perfectly normal and I need two seconds to clean.
ISO and q-tip is the best...agree
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LabPong
Well-Known Member
RBT short straight side stems......it is the best we have now. The one that you saw on the TM site was not really that great.....hopefully they will do another design and have them soon. But for now...the RBT stems work very well...you just have to shape a 1/2 domed screen into a shape that will hold inside the stem.
I use a master adapter on the short stem. No CU. Does the job.
Nameless Horse
New Member
Would you be able to share how you wrapped the TM? Or a thread or a vendor?
Forgive the aesthetic questions, for I'm still staring at a pending order place on 05/05/20. And until I have hands- on, I won't really know what I'm talking about or reading. Between the TM and waiting on my MMJ card, this has been the longest month of my life.
Can anyone speak to using wood stain on the TM? I would imagine it could be problematic with the porous nature of wood. By tainting flavor profiles.
alleyhoops
Phila
Has anyone figured out a screen for the GRAV 3" Upline Taster? I am using these screens I got for my Sticky Brick OG. It works well, but the screen slides out a lot. I like it better than the stock stem and cooling unit. I get a more even toast and it's very tasty. I can use a little or a lot and it works great. I did a lot of testing and a slow and long draw prevents those scorch marks.
Siebter
Less soul, more mind
There are many options, pretty much the same as for the stock tube, as the inner diameter is the same (I think). I really like the →MistVape cup screens, seen here sandwiching a load combined with a glass spacer from the DaVinci IQ:
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
haha just made myself a 25 cm stem.. used 16 x 2.5 simax ,ID is only 11mm ,so CU dont fit,but this was the only size tubing i have atm. I thought i should make it dimpled but the vapor is super cool ,like it is. Maybe i will bend it into a j-hook,or something like that ,gonna post photos of the end results one of these days ) !
Edit: I can also confirm that the rings on the batteries are from the aluminum.It is a very soft material i can draw you a picture on paper with it.
) !Edit: I can also confirm that the rings on the batteries are from the aluminum.It is a very soft material i can draw you a picture on paper with it.
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oh yes they would be crying
i sold all my other vapes Mighty and so on, since i have TM and Milaana 2. but TM is all the best. just pre ordered an Hopper io too, but i think
that he will only be 2nd choice against TM.
TM is the KING in the jungle
Tweakz
Well-Known Member
I completely agree with you . it's just a small, powerful warrior. I love tm incredibly muchTM is the KING in the jungle
LabPong
Well-Known Member
You can make any screen fit a TM stem....as long as it is big enough. If you try to find something that magically fits tight and does not move around.....good luck. But if you try to bend the screen to fit yourself.....you can do wonders! It is pretty easy, just use the bottom of a 14mm male joint to form the base and sidewalls. Then you just need some minor tweaking to get it to fit well.
Usually if your putting a domed/shaped screen with sides.....after a few uses the reclaim will build and help hold the screen in place better when you got to stir....which puts the most pressure on the screen.
Once you get basic screen bending/shaping down...you can make screens for pretty much any fit you need.
One basic tool you will need is a nice small 2-3 inch scissors for cutting down the perimeters.
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scooterboy
Muppet, not moped.
Is there a trick to getting them to work well? When I tried one I got no vapor at all. Seemed like the air flow went right around the capsule.
Siebter
Less soul, more mind
I was not referring to the MV capsules, but their cup screens. I haven't had the best experience with the capsules either, they stretch the session quite a bit and even then I'll have to bump up the temp by a lot. I still like to use them for slow sessions on the go, though. The cup screens on the other hand work perfectly.
scooterboy
Muppet, not moped.
Ah sorry - my mistake. I've never used MV equipment, so I didn't even know the difference. Carry on!