TinyMight / TM 2

[LabPong]

Although from what I see the more recent versions seem to have red rubber (?) o rings (the old ones were clear silicone rings), I'm not sure how they behave. If it's actually rubber, they should be okay with being soaked in isopropyl, which means we wouldn't have to remove them prior to cleaning. Could someone enlighten us on that?

Silicone o-rings usually are available in 3 variants of formula/dye/differences.
clear= soft flex
black= med flex
red= stiff flex

So it is good to see Tinymight went with the firmer silicone one to help with it getting messed up when you insert it.


You can use ISO on the o-rings....just do not leave them for prolonged times in it. like a 1 min or less dunk is fine...I just submerge them for 5-10 seconds and wipe off and then hot water rinse. You can use dish soap on them too if they are not really gunked up.

 

[murf2010]

This thing sounds as good as a mighty but on demand heat! Well, has both modes if I’m not mistaken. Sometimes I don’t want to get a bed time dose in and I just want a focused buzz in which case I micro dose.

 

[Siebter]

@LabPong – Ah okay, thanks for posting the color coding, didn't know that.

I know silicone can withstand a bit of iso, but I soak my cu in a small bag with iso for at least 15 minutes, sometimes longer, that's why I prefer to remove them.

I agree using a bit of a stiffer quality silicone is a good upgrade, since the clear ones can slip out of the ridge sometimes when moving the cu.

 

[dudeguy]

To the people using a rbt short stem as WPA, are there any widely available screens that fit into the stem?

 

[Shit Snacks]

This thing sounds as good as a mighty but on demand heat! Well, has both modes if I’m not mistaken. Sometimes I don’t want to get a bed time dose in and I just want a focused buzz in which case I micro dose.

Many of us feel it is far superior to the Mighty, but cannot really compare as they are extremely different. The session mode on the TM is still NOT like the Mighty, as it is still the same pure convection like on demand mode, no constant cooking conduction (among other things)

To the people using a rbt short stem as WPA, are there any widely available screens that fit into the stem?

You can get the RBT sized basket screens from @Ratchett at Delta3D, he posted the specific size name somewhere here if you search by his username...

 

[murf2010]

Many of us feel it is far superior to the Mighty, but cannot really compare as they are extremely different. The session mode on the TM is still NOT like the Mighty, as it is still the same pure convection like on demand mode, no constant cooking conduction (among other things)



You can get the RBT sized basket screens from @Ratchett at Delta3D, he posted the specific size name somewhere here if you search by his username...

There are literally no downsides!

 

[farmerpalmersnt]

I'm sure it's already been mentioned but there are 2 types of RBT stem. One has a flat cut end and accommodates the CU the other does not as it has a pinched/tapered end I guess due to being individually formed. I cut this end with a pipe cutter (very carefully) sanded smooth and it's ideal as a short stem and now both accommodate the cooling unit.

I have an xlr8 too but to be honest haven't bothered as I'm more than happy with the stock and short stem cooling.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I'm sure it's already been mentioned but there are 2 types of RBT stem. One has a flat cut end and accommodates the CU the other does not as it has a pinched/tapered end I guess due to being individually formed. I cut this end with a pipe cutter (very carefully) sanded smooth and it's ideal as a short stem.

I have an xlr8 too but to be honest haven't bothered as I'm more than happy with the stock and short stem cooling.

There's actually way more than 2 out there! But maybe two types of smoked glass from the V2 and Mi3 etc? I have a lot of older ones, from various build periods, all different sizes, colors, and sources. I haven't been able to test all of them, but I can say that some have fit and some have not! Never tried to use the cooling unit in any of them though... I have still never removed it from my short stem since receiving my TM three months ago, but it is actually time to finally clean it (haven't done so because I am trapped in the house anyway so I'm using my normal Mi stem j hook set up at home pretty exclusively)

 

[dzoinp]

May I also ask if you guys are also purchasing extra stems as well plus o-rings?

already broke 2 stems...

Also they are sturdy and won't break very easily

i don't agree...2 little drops = 2 broke stems

Although from what I see the more recent versions seem to have red rubber (?) o rings (the old ones were clear silicone rings), I'm not sure how they behave. If it's actually rubber, they should be okay with being soaked in isopropyl, which means we wouldn't have to remove them prior to cleaning. Could someone enlighten us on that?

red ones are much better, but i only have the two ones that came with the new stem and CU

 

[dzoinp]

Both when cleaning ... one landed in the washbasin and broke, the other fell on the toilet mat rolled and hit the wall and broke.
Both were slight impacts ...

 

[murf2010]

Both when cleaning ... one landed in the washbasin and broke, the other fell on the toilet mat rolled and hit the wall and broke.
Both were slight impacts ...

haha that was too easy.

 

[Siebter]

Well yeah, it's glass so it can break. But I never had the feeling I had to be supercareful with them and I had some nice incidents dropping them as well – but again: at one point they will of course break.

 

[LabPong]

To the people using a rbt short stem as WPA, are there any widely available screens that fit into the stem?

I make my own and custom fit them.

I start with a rimless basket screen that has soldered edges. GET FROM HERE IN USA ON THE BAY
I actually use those screens for may setups....arizer wpa's too.

Then I take them and form them around a thinner and longer 14mm male joint end. I press the end down flat on the 14mm joint..and press the circumference to the sides to make almost a 90 degree bend in them. Then with the screen on a flat surface with edges down on surface.....push in the center to make a dent into it from the outside bottom.......I use the end of a Boundless cleaning brush.

When you are done....it should look like this.....the pushed up section in the middle of the bottom adds strength to the 90 bend and sides going up.....so it will keep more pressure to help keep the screen in place. After a few loads the gunk will help keep it in place better.

In this stem....I have the screen down low for larger loads...even though there is not much in there. I usually keep it just a bit higher than that....but always allow a good 6mm or 1/4 inch from the end of the stem. I like it farther from the heater than if you allow the load to be close to the end of the stem.

Silicone battery cases work awesome for protection...and more importantly from smelling up the joint. lol

 

[dudeguy]

Thank you, cool ideas

 

[Tweakz]

maybe I incorrectly assembled my tm after the General cleaning (completely disassembled the device). then I put it together and it all came together. but something with the air or the heater. steam stopped being generated and there was no traction. maybe I'm not sealed or improperly collected aboutno ?(although I have already checked 4 times)

 

[Siebter]

@Tweakz – Hm, that's weird. I think all you can do is dis- and reassemble it once more.

Does the coil get hot at all?

 

[Tweakz]

Hm, that's weird. I think all you can do is dis- and reassemble it once more.

Does the coil get hot at all?

I'll try . the coil stopped warming just

 

[Momor]

@Tweakz, are you sure you put back the screen above the heater with the wright side facing up ? (on one side the outer rim is wider and this wider part has to face up to seal with the stem)

 

[dzoinp]

@Tweakz, are you sure you put back the screen above the heater with the wright side facing up ? (on one side the outer rim is wider and this wider part has to face up to seal with the stem)

yes, the bottom screen has orientation ... but for sure it doesn't stop the vaporization

 

[LabPong]

Ok now I want the same vape with dual cells and a simple voltage/power% readout..... "PowerMight"

 

[Momor]

yes, the bottom screen has orientation ... but for sure it doesn't stop the vaporization

I just tried and although that makes a little difference it doesn't stop vapor production

 

[TommyDee]

Ok now I want the same vape with dual cells and a simple voltage/power% readout..... "PowerMight"

That cannot be too difficult to accomplish. Want some help

Oh, you wanted it to look good too.​

 

[Tweakz]

@Tweakz, are you sure you put back the screen above the heater with the wright side facing up ? (on one side the outer rim is wider and this wider part has to face up to seal with the stem)

thank you, you were right. I moved the screen holder and the steam production got better, But it started working like a third of the power. the heater or something is interfering with it . I don't understand what's going on.

 

[dzoinp]

thank you, you were right. I moved the screen holder and the steam production got better, But it started working like a third of the power. the heater or something is interfering with it . I don't understand what's going on.

Are you using the sony VTC6?

maybe I incorrectly assembled my tm after the General cleaning (completely disassembled the device). then I put it together and it all came together. but something with the air or the heater.

hehe it seems that the disassembly went better than the assembly ...
There is an o-ring at the top of the glass tube (the widest ... which is in contact with the wood) which is difficult to place correctly. check that!

... but when the assembly doesn't go well it is best to disassemble everything and try again

Ok now I want the same vape with dual cells and a simple voltage/power% readout..... "PowerMight"

I don't want that...this is perfect like it is

 

[Glatch]

So I just ordered the TM and the long can begin.