The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

Timps27

Feel like I’m winnin’ when I’m losin’ again
Try at the second mark in the VI, but close the carb hole on the stem body to start your draw. This is where you need to learn the feel a bit, with the carb hole open you are essentially just sucking in mostly fresh air from the hole with a bit of vapor from the bowl. But when you close the hole it is going to increase the draw on the bowl, and increase the amount of hot air being dumped in.
 

General Disaster

A Country Member
Sorry if I'm being a pain in the ass to everyone while I get used to the Tempest!

It's my first externally heated vape so I'm just getting used to it, could someone help me troubleshoot to see what is I'm doing wrong.
As it is I'm getting basically no vapor so I'm trying to understand what's going wrong.

I've been following people instructions but i can't seem to nail it down.

- So I'm loading a bowl, filling it up that it's nice and full but I'm not patting it down in anyway. It's full but not wedged with bud.

- Once it's loaded I'm holding it upright, with the mouthpiece at the bottom and cap at the top. I use a flame torch and have tried lower and slower power and I've tried it a bit higher powered.

- I heat it up with the flame about 1CM away from the device as instructed. I let it get to the 3rd dot on the visual indicator. This usually takes probably 40 seconds or a minute maybe perhaps.

- I inhale, no noticeable vapor. I've tried it after waiting a few seconds to let the balls heat up as suggested on here. I've tried slowly sipping it to heat it up but still no noticeable vapor other than occasionally. The only thing that seems to provide strong vapor is if I hold my finger over the adjustable air hole as I inhale, but it gets dangerously close to combustion and I'm not sure if that's how the vape is supposed to be used.

- When I empty the bowl to clean the device, the weed is cooked a bit but still has more life in it.


Can anyone notice what I might be doing wrong? Could the quality of the flame torch I'm using may not be good enough? This is the torch I use below.


Is there any steps I'm missing?

When the weed is loaded should it be closer to the balls in the cap or still closer to the bowl part?

I certainly don't seem to be doing anything too different than this video here:

The only thing I could think of is the quality of my torch isn't good enough?
If i had to guess, and remembering I'm not one hell of a lot more experienced than yourself, I'd start looking at how you've set up the stem. Maybe I was just a bit dumb, but couldn't find all the details on that, until I checked out the MH manual for the Revolve G2 on their site.
If it's not set up right, or you're not closing the carb hole (depending on how stem is setup), or you don't have the heater vents open enough and aren't drawing enough of the hot air through the bowl, this could be preventing your getting a proper pull.

Unless you indicator is not calibrated correctly, it sounds like you're putting the required heat into your balls (fnarr fnaar! 😉), and 40 to 60 seconds sounds in the right ball park (power of torch and distance depending).

Something I didn't understand fully was the 1cm thing, and my guess is it's meant to be 1cm from the inner brighter blue cone of the flame, not the actual tip (which is hard to see anyway), but again, i don't think that's your problem.
Sounds much more like airflow.

Other factors I've found are things like if you set it up for maximum cooling and close the carb too, a massive amount of heat is draw out the head and into the stem. I find the stem after one big hottish draw, can be almost too hot to touch nearer the bowl end, showing the vapour is coming through and depositing it's heat on it's way. Are you noticing this at all or does the stem stay pretty cool? That could also show you have the required heat but that hot air isn't getting through the weed in the bowl. Be careful of over filling/packing (I know you say it wasn't). I've found using the bowls capacity works less well than quite loosely packed allowing the air through easily - this gives a bigger hit in one or two draws, leaving much less in there. More packed and it takes maybe four or five draws, and the first couple aren't especially large.


Hello ,

I just Pop My Tempest in my wand at 320 Celsius Till it times out than i get big Clouds the Indicator is Right After the 2nd indicator (just a Little Bit)
Interesting, I go to 590 (nearly the same, except wanky old brits gits use Fahrenheit just to be awkward!) but my wand only takes about 30/35 secs from cold (~18℃) to push the the VI up to almost exactly on the third line (third strike and I'm out? 😏), and it rips nicely, but not the most, and then a ~10 second heat up after that and it's pumping so much vapour I keep thinking I've combusted! (I have such poor olfactory sense I can't always taste or smell when I get a combust!).

I use the Wand on it's side with the MD stand on back to front (stops it rolling to the side, the other side rests against anything that stops it rolling backwards (to the left) and the recharge socket faces me, coil furthest away) then balance the pest horizontally with heater end in the hole (coil) of the Wand, and the pests mouthpiece resting on the upside down funnel comes with the reload, but anything to prop it on that's about an inch high or less works. The pest isn't upside down but perfectly horizontal (to within a few degrees), the weed in the loose packed bowl stays in place, the head sits perfectly against the glass backstop within the coil so has constant positioning unless I change the glass adapter position.

So far this seems to be giving fairly repeatable bowls. Obviously still many other variables which is why I try to lock down those I can (temp, head position in heater, etc etc). So far I'm learning about how heat gets into the bowl (like finding that 10 second reheat that gets so much more out of an already medium toasted avb).

P.S. I look for the higher temp hits, FYI. Can't taste the flavours much and like the sedative effect later in the day than the buzz for the mornings that lets me work (sort of! My boss may argue that point, if he knew! 😖).


Oh yeah - caveat to reheating, the only real combust I've done on the pest yet, was third time using the wand, and experimenting -did a normal heat up plus two tokes, then put back in for a reheat, and tried waiting for the cut-off for the wand temp. This does not work! Not. One. Bit!!

However the wand detects temp, it doesn't work in the same way when already pretty hot as when heated from rtp. I found giving it about 5 secs then removing to check the VI, then another until VI is set, is far more effective and accurate - ping! No more combusts!

Also giving it maybe 10/20 seconds for the heat to distribute more evenly in the head, before pulling on it, seems to help too.
 
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leanpubpackage

Well-Known Member
Question for all. Has anyone tried with rubies? I know rubies hold more heat, but would it then take longer to heat up compared to zro2?
 
leanpubpackage,

kokolokokolokon

Well-Known Member
Completely idle curiosity (well, definitely idle) - what is it that you find better with zirc? And what size are they? (to compare with the ruby)
I tried 3mm, 2,5mm and 2mm zirconia. I prefer the 2.5 balls.
I find the 2,5 zirc better because they give, imo, better flavor and better heat retention.
The 2mm rubi balls were more similar to the 2,5 glass balls but needing more time of heat up and less initial punch
 

General Disaster

A Country Member
Interesting, thanks!
I guess (not being bothered to google it right now) the rubies are higher capacity/lower conduction (relative to each other) compared to the glass. So maybe better for longer slower sessions from a single heat up, rather than shorter intense hits but with less time to finish the bowl?
Can you also say the difference you notice just from change in size? i.e. how it effects the airflow. Thnx!
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
However the wand detects temp, it doesn't work in the same way when already pretty hot as when heated from rtp. I found giving it about 5 secs then removing to check the VI, then another until VI is set, is far more effective and accurate - ping! No more combusts!
I'm of the impression that the Wand doesn't detect temperature at all, and that it operates solely on time. In other words, increasing the "temperature" in the device just increases the amount of time that heat is applied. I'm sure somebody said this early on, but it also is apparent from my experience. That's part of the reason why people tend to overheat it on a reheat if they aren't careful.
 

leanpubpackage

Well-Known Member
Interesting, thanks!
I guess (not being bothered to google it right now) the rubies are higher capacity/lower conduction (relative to each other) compared to the glass. So maybe better for longer slower sessions from a single heat up, rather than shorter intense hits but with less time to finish the bowl?
Can you also say the difference you notice just from change in size? i.e. how it effects the airflow. Thnx!
This is the info I needed. I care more about speed of heat up (conductivity) vs heat capacity. I won’t bother with rubies then. The zro2 heats up pretty fast and provides plenty of heat calories
 

General Disaster

A Country Member
I'm of the impression that the Wand doesn't detect temperature at all, and that it operates solely on time. In other words, increasing the "temperature" in the device just increases the amount of time that heat is applied. I'm sure somebody said this early on, but it also is apparent from my experience. That's part of the reason why people tend to overheat it on a reheat if they aren't careful.
That makes a lot more sense! I was having problems working out how the bugger could detect the temp in a consistent way, especially with all the different adapters and types of vape, and it wasn't going to be something like IR, and what you say fits far better with the experience using it hot, thanks.

I'm getting best results so far by setting to about 580/590, then on the wand finishing and putting the VI on three, giving a gentle pull or two for a nice draw but nothing crazy, then giving it 2 to 4, 5 second bursts, checking the VI each time until it's back on three, and then she really goes to town with the vapour, as long as the bowls not to tightly packed. Leaves a nice toasty avb, but not right on the black, which is about how I like it - result! It's be nice if simply stepping up the Wand's 'temperature' could do it in one go, but I think there's something about the heat fully going through the matrix (piss off, Neo! gimme the blue pill!) that let's the pest hit full blast, but I need to play more with it.

It may just be it needs a little time to come to equilibrium, but there may be a factor of not heating too much, then after a time period needing just a little more to top it up, so it never goes above a certain temp inside due to heating too quickly. We shall see I guess, it's just that it's getting really tough to not fall off my chair after about half a dozen attempts! 🥴
Maybe I should wait an hour or so?

[Edit]
Actually, I think there is a temp sensor or two, but they measure the coil temp, but not the cup temp (internal). So there is some temperature limiting feedback, but to actually expect the number you select to equate to a real temperature within the pest is a rather tenuous expectation I think. But it still is massively useful simply in providing a calibration of some sort, to repeat the same action the next time (if wanted).
 
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Dabberhashery

electrobubblerizer
These hash worms that come out the holes on the side of the bowl have become my early warning sign that I'm gonna a have to clean it soon... especially when I've only been vaping flower

20240308-222037.jpg
 
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HaggisHunter

Well-Known Member
I dont think Im following. It may be because I have the Revolve V1 but are you saying the tube that holds the spinning MP is different now? Seems on V2 it was angle cut while now its more open?

I am understanding that the Tempest head has airflow adjustment but didnt the airflow stay the same on the stem?
I didn't do a good job of explaining that.
But @VapingYogi sorted that out.
 

grognard3r

Active Member
Is there any news about an "update kit" for early Tempest adopters?

I seem to remember reading something about that a while back.

I have a Tempest from the November 23 drop.
 
grognard3r,

grognard3r

Active Member
I think you get the final click discs, final VI spring, the two steel parts on the head have been remade in another steel.
Leather pouch.
Final bowl screens.
I'm in UK and the kit will be £25 I believe.
Thanks!

Putting the spring in the head properly is not so easy, at least for me.

Do you know if the click disks and spring will already be put together? It would be delicate to ship, I guess.

When I received my Tempest and installed the disks and spring, I thought I had wound the spring properly, but that turned out to be untrue. From that point forward, I only used the Wand and its lights for heat indicators.

The number of times the sping is wound is vital. I messed that up before and am pretty sure I'd mess it up again on a new spring.
 

hoyo77

Well-Known Member
New to this thread and my vape acquisition fever has kicked in.....so when will they have more in stock????
 
hoyo77,

Zow237

Well-Known Member
After some more time with this thing its pretty nice. Smoooth huge plooms now. I havent combusted in a while which is a plus too. I think i have dialed it in with a torch. I will get the wand eventually to try it out. This will be a keeper. The convections high is so hard to beat. Im glad i stuck with it. I felt dumb with this vape at first. @hoyo77 its supposed to be the end of the month. Delays may happen
 
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Brenyo

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
I think you get the final click discs, final VI spring, the two steel parts on the head have been remade in another steel.
Leather pouch.
Final bowl screens.
I'm in UK and the kit will be £25 I believe.
That’s correct, thanks!
The price of the kit is slightly cheaper now so the upgrade kit will be too, around £9 or 9$

so when will they have more in stock????
There won’t be more pre release units, the final ones might start the pre order around the end of this months and shipping in April, but there might be more delay.

Do you know if the click disks and spring will already be put together? It would be delicate to ship, I guess.
It almost could be done, however I don’t have enough extra of that small Ti VI pointer and it’s a bit expensive to make that delicate part, esp in small numbers :(

When I received my Tempest and installed the disks and spring, I thought I had wound the spring properly, but that turned out to be untrue. From that point forward, I only used the Wand and its lights for heat indicators.

The number of times the sping is wound is vital. I messed that up before and am pretty sure I'd mess it up again on a new spring.
You could only place it in the wrong way around, I don’t think that you can wind it a lot more than the half turn that’s needed to shrink it a bit.
I’ll make an easier to understand video on how to install it

This is the info I needed. I care more about speed of heat up (conductivity) vs heat capacity. I won’t bother with rubies then. The zro2 heats up pretty fast and provides plenty of heat calories
Def try the glass balls then, I think you’ll prefer it over the zirc
 

Strolling&Rolling

Active Member
After some more time with this thing its pretty nice. Smoooth huge plooms now. I havent combusted in a while which is a plus too. I think i have dialed it in with a torch. I will get the wand eventually to try it out. This will be a keeper. The convections high is so hard to beat. Im glad i stuck with it. I felt dumb with this vape at first. @hoyo77 its supposed to be the end of the month. Delays may happen
Do you mind explaining your process @Zow237 please?

i am having similar-ish issues to the ones you were having too, I'd be interested in hearing how you achieved some better results 😀
 
Strolling&Rolling,

General Disaster

A Country Member
These hash worms that come out the holes on the side of the bowl have become my early warning sign that I'm gonna a have to clean it soon... especially when I've only been vaping flower

20240308-222037.jpg
I have to say, this looks like the centre spread from last months copy of "Rectal Reaming & Vapin' Monthly"! 😳
 
General Disaster,

General Disaster

A Country Member
Do you mind explaining your process @Zow237 please?

i am having similar-ish issues to the ones you were having too, I'd be interested in hearing how you achieved some better results 😀
If it helps any, I'm a bit of klutz when it comes to this sort of thing, most especially if I've little feedback on the thing. So I found it much harder using the flame than I have since getting an IH about 4 days back. Big difference for me, but from comments this isn't universal for everyone by any means, so investing in one is better left for a while unless the money don't matter, and if you do get one, I'd go for a popular one if only because there are lot's of people who can help and advise (and the Wand is specifically mentioned in 'pest manual and has that adapter comes with).

Interestingly I'm finding it easier to apply heat source, easier in terms of consistency, accurate adjustment, repeatability etc. with an IH.
And the technique that so far has given the best results (not that the lighter was giving bad results, at all!) is to heat to the third line, take one or two gentle but definite tokes to draw the hot air through and spread the heat a bit inside the head, comes out like a normal vape (Crafty or suchlike) then apply another small reheat (only 5 to 10 seconds in the IH) checking that indicator every 5 secs until it just almost reaches third line again.

Using the IH the VI will continue to go up a little for a short time after removing heat to just a fraction over third line (I like 'em toasty), then start pulling, but make sure not to allow too much of the carb hole to be open if any, you want to make sure the heads air vents are fully open too. This way is for slow DTL, not MTL! Long slow steady pull, lifting your finger off the carb to cool/dilute as needed, after the first few seconds of the draw. The stem will likely be getting rather warm to the touch if you've kept the carb closed by the third pull (approx). I tend to keep the carb closed most of the time until near end of a draw.

Obviously that's written from an IH p.o.v. not a jet lighter, but the principles can be followed with a lighter. I find the IH heats a little faster than my three flame lighter, so any times given above should likely be a little longer but suck it and see, work up from cooler to hotter in your attempts, rather than too hot to start with. You can always retry a bowl of it never got hot enough, but easier to let it cool for 5 mins first than try to top up when v. hot.
I'm not saying that's the formula to follow for guaranteed success, just that's one way I've found of getting really big fuckin' clouds when I already thought it was good, it's got better! Bloody 'ell! 😵

I found, using a pocket three jet lighter, very slow spin, with the tip of the bright blue inner cone of the flame near to the surface of the heater (5 to 10 mm), always aimed between the two scored lines (at first, until it works, then adjust on later attempts). The reheat to get to that almost perfect point (as described above) is a little harder to hit just right, VI helps a lot, remember it lags sometimes by 10 seconds as the heat penetrates.

Pack the bowl loosely, just enough so it doesn't fall out easily if you tilt the 'pest.
 
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General Disaster,

Strolling&Rolling

Active Member
If it helps any, I'm a bit of klutz when it comes to this sort of thing, most especially if I've little feedback on the thing. So I found it much harder using the flame than I have since getting an IH about 4 days back. Big difference for me, but from comments this isn't universal for everyone by any means, so investing in one is better left for a while unless the money don't matter, and if you do get one, I'd go for a popular one if only because there are lot's of people who can help and advise (and the Wand is specifically mentioned in 'pest manual and has that adapter comes with).

Interestingly I'm finding it easier to apply heat source, easier in terms of consistency, accurate adjustment, repeatability etc. with an IH.
And the technique that so far has given the best results (not that the lighter was giving bad results, at all!) is to heat to the third line, take one or two gentle but definite tokes to draw the hot air through and spread the heat a bit inside the head, comes out like a normal vape (Crafty or suchlike) then apply another small reheat (only 5 to 10 seconds in the IH) checking that indicator every 5 secs until it just almost reaches third line again.

Using the IH the VI will continue to go up a little for a short time after removing heat to just a fraction over third line (I like 'em toasty), then start pulling, but make sure not to allow too much of the carb hole to be open if any, you want to make sure the heads air vents are fully open too. This way is for slow DTL, not MTL! Long slow steady pull, lifting your finger off the carb to cool/dilute as needed, after the first few seconds of the draw. The stem will likely be getting rather warm to the touch if you've kept the carb closed by the third pull (approx). I tend to keep the carb closed most of the time until near end of a draw.

Obviously that's written from an IH p.o.v. not a jet lighter, but the principles can be followed with a lighter. I find the IH heats a little faster than my three flame lighter, so any times given above should likely be a little longer but suck it and see, work up from cooler to hotter in your attempts, rather than too hot to start with. You can always retry a bowl of it never got hot enough, but easier to let it cool for 5 mins first than try to top up when v. hot.
I'm not saying that's the formula to follow for guaranteed success, just that's one way I've found of getting really big fuckin' clouds when I already thought it was good, it's got better! Bloody 'ell! 😵

I found, using a pocket three jet lighter, very slow spin, with the tip of the bright blue inner cone of the flame near to the surface of the heater (5 to 10 mm), always aimed between the two scored lines (at first, until it works, then adjust on later attempts). The reheat to get to that almost perfect point (as described above) is a little harder to hit just right, VI helps a lot, remember it lags sometimes by 10 seconds as the heat penetrates.

Pack the bowl loosely, just enough so it doesn't fall out easily if you tilt the 'pest.
Thanks very much for your help, I'm starting to get a little more consistent with it. I'm noticing I prefer the mouthpiece to be closed I think.

It suits my inhaling style a bit better and it heats up the bud a bit better maybe?

I've started to use a bigger flame on the torch but from a further distance and I think I'm getting more consistent results that way, maybe the heat covers a bigger surface area of the cap that way but I'm just guessing.

From what I'm seeming to notice, the effects of getting to Visual Indicator notch 3 on a lower and slower flame wouldn't necessarily match the effects of getting to visual indicator notch 3 more quickly with a powerful flame.

I just need to become more consistent at getting consistent results and identifying what is the sweet spot for me. I think I'll get a wand next month just to see what the experience is like.

Just out of curiosity, when you say the carb/carb hole which part of the device are you talking about? Is it the adjustment airflow hole?
 
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