The Screwball by Vapvana

JohnnyTorres

Well-Known Member
@JohnnyTorres do you mean the gap in your pics where the heater meets the lip of the bowl? Mine sits very flush all the way around. There is just a bit of wiggle, but that’s probably for anti-seize I’m guessing.
Yeah, that's the gap I'm speaking of. I expected a bit of wiggle, and had heard concerns about that fit being too tight on previous prototypes. My head fits over the bowl with about .25-.5mm gap all the way around, and has the angled gap you see in the pictures when you grip the bowl and head together in one hand.
 

TedJones

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's the gap I'm speaking of. I expected a bit of wiggle, and had heard concerns about that fit being too tight on previous prototypes. My head fits over the bowl with about .25-.5mm gap all the way around, and has the angled gap you see in the pictures when you grip the bowl and head together in one hand.
Yea, most likely getting air through that. Darn the luck, Cal will take care of that of course. I needed to tighten my lid down just a bit more. Some gems were holding it up so I unscrewed it completely and it was packed! Ended up removing some so I could screw it down all the way. My heater does turn both ways with some effort, but not a biggie since it seems to be working at the upper 400’s well for me.
 

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
I'm a silly fellow. There's so much more mass in the heater so you have to give it a way longer heat soak than what I'm used to


I'm finding my sweet spot is 515. With this lunar bubbler there's a nice open draw but I like to pull an little harder so I believe I'm having to compensate for that draw speed in my temp to get similar results to cal
 
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Razshiro

Well-Known Member
I would like to give a quick feedback after 3 months of using your vape. As you can see i had/have severals vaporizer:
Daily driver: Herborizer Ti
Desktop: EVO, Plenty, E-Nano, LSV
With Glass piece: Sublimator Apollo XLR 2.0, G43(wPSU)/Herborizer Ti, FlowerPot B0/B1/B1i-SH/WE,Supreme V3, E-Elev8R, DC-Elev8R, Lotus, Vapocane, FlipBrick, etc ...



I use mainly my desktop vape in my Mobius Stereo Matrix without water, the problem with many desktop vape is than the vapor is pretty harsh, too hot for my throat; the only vape than i can use "daily" without water are Sublimator Apollo XLR 2.0, the Herborizer Ti, EVO, E-Nano, the G43, the Supreme V3 (low temps) & the E-Elev8R !

Unfortunatly your vape is like the FlowerPot B0/B1 or the DC-ELev8r (or many ball vape than i've tried) i can't use it "daily" without water even at low temps (380ish). Your vape shine with water (one of the best hit i had, the vape signature is really good), the no-stirring is really a huge improvement but i would like to replace my daily driver Herborizer Ti with your vape but this is not the case ..... :'(

At the end i'm happy to have this vape in my vape collection; i still use your vape in my rotation or with friends and people are impressed by the power of the extraction !!!

Do you know if you can improve the "smoothest" of the vapor without adding water ?? this is my main complain ..... @Vapvana
Cheers man & i wish you the best for you & your business !!
 

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
So I do like to go quite a bit darker than the mighty would allow and I'm REALLY like it that 515 sweet spot. The resistance from the vape is just perfect. With this piece, the chug of it almost "purrs" if I pull TOO slow so I'm finding there is a certain amount that I do have to pull for a pleasant feeling drag. But with this vape, that extra airflow seems to be giving me better vapor production vs a slower pull anyway.

So between the pull on the bubbler and the resistance on the piece, there's this sweet spot where there's just a massive amount of vapor. There is SO MUCH vapor that the percolation in the bubbler stacks about twice as high when it's milking vs when I pull the heater off. It's like the extra "viscosity" in the air changes the fluid dynamics. All that being said, this is truly the most delectable vape I have personally used. Much tastier than any of my previous injectors (b2, b0, z8, zx). Much more even roast as well and less coughing due to exactly how OPEN in is. I find those 20mm bowls help with not adding resistance once the bowl is filled.

Im not seeing a huge difference between experience preheated and non preheated hits aside from the bowl itself being hotter.

Also, one last thing, the half bowl, tamped with the weight of the spoon, is the exact same amount as a lightly tamped mighty bowl. No more and no less. So, for anyone wanting a desktop that excels at what a mighty does (sessions), this is the one that does that, and then some imo.

I haven't tried a one hit extraction but will be attempting it with the full bowl this weekend

 
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TedJones

Well-Known Member
Great review @Zuhdj ! Yea, different pieces, percs, and adapters will all come into play when finding your sweet spot. I switched to the FC Mod from the double matrix. Way less diffusion and more “open” imo. Lowered my temp by 10 to compensate. Pretty good guess .. but still tinkering.
 

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
Great review @Zuhdj ! Yea, different pieces, percs, and adapters will all come into play when finding your sweet spot. I switched to the FC Mod from the double matrix. Way less diffusion and more “open” imo. Lowered my temp by 10 to compensate. Pretty good guess .. but still tinkering.
It's interesting because I had a beaker with a natural perc because the "less surface area" was theoretically better for flavor and stuff. I found the flavor was actually pretty bad and I coughed a TON. with my goo roo glass, I cough less but it's just such a huge piece and it takes a ton of lung to work it. I don't barely use my hydro base anymore because it's a bit too closed for me. So this new lunar bubbler has pretty much solved all that. I get a tone of air effortlessly with great flavor AND great cooling. Not sure how they did it but they did.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I would like to give a quick feedback after 3 months of using your vape. As you can see i had/have severals vaporizer:
Daily driver: Herborizer Ti
Desktop: EVO, Plenty, E-Nano, LSV
With Glass piece: Sublimator Apollo XLR 2.0, G43(wPSU)/Herborizer Ti, FlowerPot B0/B1/B1i-SH/WE,Supreme V3, E-Elev8R, DC-Elev8R, Lotus, Vapocane, FlipBrick, etc ...



I use mainly my desktop vape in my Mobius Stereo Matrix without water, the problem with many desktop vape is than the vapor is pretty harsh, too hot for my throat; the only vape than i can use "daily" without water are Sublimator Apollo XLR 2.0, the Herborizer Ti, EVO, E-Nano, the G43, the Supreme V3 (low temps) & the E-Elev8R !

Unfortunatly your vape is like the FlowerPot B0/B1 or the DC-ELev8r (or many ball vape than i've tried) i can't use it "daily" without water even at low temps (380ish). Your vape shine with water (one of the best hit i had, the vape signature is really good), the no-stirring is really a huge improvement but i would like to replace my daily driver Herborizer Ti with your vape but this is not the case ..... :'(

At the end i'm happy to have this vape in my vape collection; i still use your vape in my rotation or with friends and people are impressed by the power of the extraction !!!

Do you know if you can improve the "smoothest" of the vapor without adding water ?? this is my main complain ..... @Vapvana
Cheers man & i wish you the best for you & your business !!
Watch the Couch Log thread. @Beefcake@420Eng is making a 14mm humidifier for dry glass use:
 

JohnnyTorres

Well-Known Member
So between the pull on the bubbler and the resistance on the piece, there's this sweet spot where there's just a massive amount of vapor.
This is what I'm finding, as well. I was drawing strong and fast at first like I needed to for the whip-driven SSV, then overcompensating and drawing too slow to draw the heat through the matrix. After really watching some of the videos here, I dialed in a draw speed and technique that worked really well at 530. This morning, I dropped it to 490 to try the new draw, and I was pleasantly surprised. For anyone else having issues, this is what I did.

1. I treat this like an e-rig, and no longer remove the heater and/or bowl to clear after each draw. I only clear the piece after the bowl stops producing visible vapor.

2. This unit has almost no restriction, and pairing that with a big flower tube meant I was drawing air too fast and not utilizing the heat matrix properly. I used a fine grind with a hard pack to add a bit more restriction, and use a "slow but mighty" draw to pull the air through. Still using the half bowl, with about half a scoop, completely covering the screen and tamped flat.

3. Hold the damn heater. The weight of the handle makes the heater tip to the side, allowing just a little bit of cold air into the mix. This effect is amplified if you hold the heater and bowl as one unit, pinching the handles together, creating a gap on the far side. Elbows Out, Ladies and Gents! Hold that heater flush and proud! All the bowls have some room to allow for removal when hot, and machining tolerances mean some have bigger gaps than others. I saw the same effect happening in almost all the pics and videos I saw with people free-handing it, so I don't believe my unit's machining is out of spec.

I was not seeing the results I thought I should, and I looked for something mechanical right away. @Vapvana I hope I have not caused you too much stress with this! Your stuff is working properly! There are a lot of variables in this world, making it nearly impossible to create the same out-of-the-box experience for everyone.

I'm still curious about my temperature readings, and would love anyone else with the tools to chime in. I can aim the infrared beam at the coil itself, at the screen holding the gems, even the corner where the screen meets the walls, and nothing comes close to what I'm seeing on the PID. So where does it get it's number to display? Have all these e-nails been wrong this whole time? Have we been living a LIE?
 

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
This is what I'm finding, as well. I was drawing strong and fast at first like I needed to for the whip-driven SSV, then overcompensating and drawing too slow to draw the heat through the matrix. After really watching some of the videos here, I dialed in a draw speed and technique that worked really well at 530. This morning, I dropped it to 490 to try the new draw, and I was pleasantly surprised. For anyone else having issues, this is what I did.

1. I treat this like an e-rig, and no longer remove the heater and/or bowl to clear after each draw. I only clear the piece after the bowl stops producing visible vapor.

2. This unit has almost no restriction, and pairing that with a big flower tube meant I was drawing air too fast and not utilizing the heat matrix properly. I used a fine grind with a hard pack to add a bit more restriction, and use a "slow but mighty" draw to pull the air through. Still using the half bowl, with about half a scoop, completely covering the screen and tamped flat.

3. Hold the damn heater. The weight of the handle makes the heater tip to the side, allowing just a little bit of cold air into the mix. This effect is amplified if you hold the heater and bowl as one unit, pinching the handles together, creating a gap on the far side. Elbows Out, Ladies and Gents! Hold that heater flush and proud! All the bowls have some room to allow for removal when hot, and machining tolerances mean some have bigger gaps than others. I saw the same effect happening in almost all the pics and videos I saw with people free-handing it, so I don't believe my unit's machining is out of spec.

I was not seeing the results I thought I should, and I looked for something mechanical right away. @Vapvana I hope I have not caused you too much stress with this! Your stuff is working properly! There are a lot of variables in this world, making it nearly impossible to create the same out-of-the-box experience for everyone.

I'm still curious about my temperature readings, and would love anyone else with the tools to chime in. I can aim the infrared beam at the coil itself, at the screen holding the gems, even the corner where the screen meets the walls, and nothing comes close to what I'm seeing on the PID. So where does it get it's number to display? Have all these e-nails been wrong this whole time? Have we been living a LIE?
The temp differences are explained a way back in the thread

Is there a way Cal can find the difference between our PID temp and our ending bowl temp? I know there's about a 50 degree Fahrenheit between the temp setting and the convection airstream. But what is the difference between that convection air and the internal herb temp? Do we know?
 

JohnnyTorres

Well-Known Member
@Zuhdj I had seen talk about a 10-ish degree difference to account for heat lost to the banger in an e-nail setup, and I had seen talk to the 50 degree difference between PID setting and actual head/airflow temperature, but I'm seeing closer to 140-190 degrees difference between PID reading and my heater coil. Am I measuring from the wrong point, using the wrong tool, etc.?:shrug:

Either way, I'm happy with the performance. If I'm left wondering about what I did wrong, then so be it, I won't beat a dead horse. I kinda just want to know how crappy this thermometer is :lol:
 
JohnnyTorres,
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Pcloudy

Well-Known Member
@Zuhdj I had seen talk about a 10-ish degree difference to account for heat lost to the banger in an e-nail setup, and I had seen talk to the 50 degree difference between PID setting and actual head/airflow temperature, but I'm seeing closer to 140-190 degrees difference between PID reading and my heater coil. Am I measuring from the wrong point, using the wrong tool, etc.?:shrug:

Either way, I'm happy with the performance. If I'm left wondering about what I did wrong, then so be it, I won't beat a dead horse. I kinda just want to know how crappy this thermometer is :lol:
So that is a pretty extreme difference. If you have your pid set to 500 with the temp at the coil reading 300 something is either way off with your thermometer, the pid, or the coil. I’m not even sure if you’d get vapor at 300. I’ll have to dig through my posts on here but I was taking temps of my coil with a terpometer with the pid set to 500 and it should be way higher than 300. Was that after a good heat soak?
 

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
Is there a way Cal can find the difference between our PID temp and our ending bowl temp? I know there's about a 50 degree Fahrenheit between the temp setting and the convection airstream. But what is the difference between that convection air and the internal herb temp? Do we know?
I suppose I'm looking for the difference between the air temp and the herb itself. I assume the temp will never fully equalize so, even with the convection air being 50 degrees cooler than the PID says, the bowl itself will be even cooler. My question is, how much cooler is the bowl compared to that airstream? So if the bowl is hypothetically 25 degrees cooler than the convection air then we would be able to say the PID setting shows 75 degrees hotter than the temp within the bowl. I want to know the actual numbers though.
 
Zuhdj,
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coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know the the PID has an auto-off feature? If not, I think I have a defective unit. I left it on for an hour and came back to a cold heater:shrug: That first hit was much more than I’m used to and surpassed my expectations.
It 's fine, it does have an auto-shutoff. It's a bit of a pain in that regard, but I left mine set just for the little security boost,I guess. That and general laziness. ; )
 
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Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
I suppose I'm looking for the difference between the air temp and the herb itself. I assume the temp will never fully equalize so, even with the convection air being 50 degrees cooler than the PID says, the bowl itself will be even cooler. My question is, how much cooler is the bowl compared to that airstream? So if the bowl is hypothetically 25 degrees cooler than the convection air then we would be able to say the PID setting shows 75 degrees hotter than the temp within the bowl. I want to know the actual numbers though.
My advice to everyone using a PID controller driven ball vape is to ignore the numbers relative to anything else. Just think of higher is hotter, but it's not useful to compare even between different vapes on the same PID, let alone the estimated bowl temperature. There are frankly too many other variables (draw speed, glass piece, cannabis cure, ambient temperature, etc) to make this possible anyway.

And if you placed a probe into the bowl, what would that tell you? I'd avoid looking for specific numbers and experiment. Once you are satisfied with your settings, I'm certain the Screwball will perform consistently and reliably.
 

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
I know higher is higher lower is lower but I like science, even if it's questionable science :)

That all being said, one thing is scientifically accurate and that is that the full bowl filled to the brim is a MUCH better experience overall compared to anything else I've done with the vape. Except, of course, the sheer quantity required. This is where a good amount of cbd comes in real handy as a way of fluffing up your herb. To microdose, I Put a dyna bowl amount of thc flower and fill the rest with cbd. It will extract perfectly evenly so there's no need to worry about how you pack it.

The half bowl full is great but not quite as great. And not filling it is cool too. But getting that maximum conduction surface area definitely extracts nicer overall
 

Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
I know higher is higher lower is lower but I like science, even if it's questionable science
You should put a probe in your bowl. I want to see it! I don't think it will tell you anything useful about vaping, but it would be neat. I'd suggest a high temperature k-type thermocouple. Ideally not the immersion kind, but that will be close enough.
 
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