'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer

[blokenoname]

First attempt on a straight end glass heater cover, cut from 10mm OD boro glass straws:

10mm OD tubes just arrived They're fairly thick walled, too. 2+ mm, I'd Guess, as the 8mm ss tips can't enter.

The fit with the 13mm/10mm OD/ID stems is nearly exact, it seems. Meaning I can only slide one tube into the other, when I cut off the fire rounded edges of the bigger tube first, which is unfortunate

Alas... Dremel tool saved the day
Fixing it vertically in my vice, I used the flat surface of the diamond cutter disk to machine a step into the top end of the 10mm OD tube, by slowly rotating the tube on the cutter disk. Worked like a charm and the 13mm tube now slides over easily

I think, they will also make great mouthpiece tubes for a variety of roasting tubes/stems, one might dream up. As you've seen in Alan's thread... the possibilties there seem sheer endless

The HI is easily my most favorite Log vape until today. Soooo simple in its design, but so beautiful. Misty is really a HI tribute

Here's the machined down straight end glass hc:

So... looks like the perfect day for Log building
New maple glass core Misty in production

 

[brainiac]

It's looking good, Bloke
I'm making a batch of ss heater covers today and, quite frankly, the job's making that glass core option seem very attractive .

 

[blokenoname]

Now for a bit of soldering... and we're done

.... and done!

ETA:

Bloody perfect!

 

[Megaton]

Looks great! Love the hybrid stem!

 

[blokenoname]

Ah... this beauty works really well

Makes nice clouds with that hybrid stem... even with the lid screen in place. About 4-5 nice tasty draws, leaving coffee brown avb

Very lightweight unit, compared to the cherry steel core and the mahogany 14/23 glass core.

Just improvised the stem, using @brainiac s sycamore stem, exchanging its ss tip with the glass tip and a silicone sleeve temporarily

Will do some wood&glass stems tomorrow

 

[brainiac]

Wow! That came together really quickly.
The maple looks good too.
That's a very attractive unit you've got there

I guess you're running it through a dimmer? Approx what setting?
And what diameter is the air inlet hole?

A glass core is now definitely on my to-do list
Glad that sycamore stem's giving good service.

 

[blokenoname]

Thanks

Well, yes. But that's the really nice thing about it... I'm running it at a 12v straight now from my VVPS. So you can run it directly from the wall wart, probably
Steel core runs a tid bit too hot with the cartridge, to run w/o a dimmer. Lower conductivity of the glass core compensates for that.

This is a nice solution, indeed. Superior to the 14/23 joint tube, I used in the mahogany unit.
The female 14/23 joint of the GonG adapter robbed a lot of heat away from the hc in that one, so that you had to ramp up the voltage. A lot of glass to heat up, in that joint.
The smaller glass hc here works far more efficient

Air intake is 4mm. It's located at the base, opposite from the DC jack.

 

[blokenoname]

There! That's all the stem/GonG tube you'll ever need for the latest glass core Misty

In principle, it's a copy of Alan's 'slide a bowl type roasting tubes', but due to my inner 'sliding' tube being thicker walled, it now also provides you with two different sized bowls within one and the same stem

These are two boro glass tubes, that slide into each other, held by a silicone sleeve at the junction. Outer tube is 13mm/10mm OD/ID and will slide over the glass heater cover. Inner tube is 10mm/7mm OD/ID and moves within the outer tube. Each of the tubes has a small basket screen inside. Invert the stem, and the silicone sleeve doubles as a 14mm bong adapter

You can now either go for the...

a) 'big bowl' (10mm), by moving the screen inside the smaller tube to its utmost tip, so that it's sealed by the screen (like shown in the pic). Then draw the smaller tube back a centimeter or so. Front end of the smaller tube now forms the back end of your 10mm diameter chamber in the outer tube. Remove screen from the outer tube. Use straw method to suck some herb into the chamber and seal chamber with the screen for the outer tube, so no herb can fall out. Draw back the inner tube another centimeter and then push screen and load further back in from the front end, so that there's enough free space left for the heater cover to enter. Now connect to the heater. You can push the inner tube forwards now, bringing the load closer to the heater, as need be.
For 'stirring', just pull the inner tube back a bit and shake the stem, then push the inner tube back in.

b)... or the 'small bowl' (7mm), by removing the screen in the outer tube completely and then moving the screen inside the smaller tube a centimeter back in, so that the front end of the 7mm inner tube forms your chamber now. Push the inner tube in, till its front end is flush with the end of the outer tube, use straw method to suck herb in, draw inner tube back and proceed like in a). Stirring shouldn't be necessary, as the small bowl usually holds the same amount of herb as a ss tip.

You clean out the small bowl by simply blowing the load out. The big bowl gets cleaned by simply pushing the inner tube in, till the bigger screen and the load fall out.

 

[KeroZen]

Very cool! ... apart from the bloody silicone!

 

[blokenoname]

Very cool! ... apart from the bloody silicone!

It's miles away from the heat and completley outside of the airpath
And you can also use a sleeve made out of wood or a wine cork in place of the silicone here, as Alan demonstrates in his HI thread. I linked to his tubes a page back

 

[blokenoname]

Love me new Glass Core Maple Misty

 

[Megaton]

Looks great! I really need to make myself a couple of stem/ accessory stands.

Love that vong body modification you have done there too!

 

[brainiac]

The Glass Core Maple Misty - a new Misty chapter begins

It'll be interesting to get your thoughts on ss core vs glass core but, no doubt, you'll want to do some thorough testing first

And, as Megaton said, it's fine looking piece

 

[blokenoname]

@brainiac asked for some more pics in natural light

ETA: Ok... preliminary thoughts on the glass core:

Well, what I can say so far is, that there is a huge difference in conduction going on, when using the 7,5w cartridge heater in a steel or glass cover. There are also some differences in how the core itself is built.

For instance... in my steel core walnut I use the user serviceable heater, where the uninsulated cartridge is directly soldered straight onto the DC jack. This makes the DC jack part of the thermal mass of the heater itself, as it absorbs a lot of heat. No problem for the cartridge, as I can comfortably run the walnut unit at 11,7v, to get huge hits and dense clouds and coffee brown avb from my ss tipped stems. There is also the second ss washer in the base, that holds the nut for screwing in the heater. Absorbs heat too.

In my steel core cherry wood unit, I installed a fully insulated cartridge heater with about 8cm of insulated leads, which connect to the DC jack sitting at the side of the base. Here, the jack doesn't even get lukewarm, but remains indeed totally cold to the touch. However, I'm running that unit at a mere 10v now, to get the same effect as from the walnut unit above. At 11,7v, I burn the load! Though the walnut is denser than the cherry and radiates more heat, effects from this cannot be THIS pronounced to account for a full 1,7v in difference. So it has to be the core design (added thermal mass of the jack itself).

The glass core maple wood unit has the same fully insulated heater as the steel core cherry unit, but here you've a lot less conduction happening within the unit, due to the higher thermal resistance of the glass core. Running it at 12v straight gave me the best results here, resulting in dense clouds and coffee brown avb again. So the cartridge has a clear advantage over the resistor in a glass core here. Alan always remarked, that his resistor driven glass core HI provided a bit less than the optimal heat output compared to his steel core HIs. He tried to alleviate this problem, by adding a thin ss sheet, covering the resistor itself, to gain better heat distribution and recently also adding another rolled up ss sheet to cover the inside of the heater well, so that radiating heat from the resistor would be reflected back onto the glass core.
All this becomes unnecessary with the cartridge.

Taste is of course a bit more preserved with the glass core, as the roasting isn't so agressive, due to less heat transfered to the load via additional conduction, like is inevitably happening with a steel core + ss tips.

ETA2: forgot to mention, that the glass core also has a slightly higher draw resistance, compared to the steel core. That is due to the fact, that the inner diameter of the glass heater cover is only 7mm, while the cartridge itself is already 6mm in diameter.
In comparison, the steel heater cover's inner diameter is about 8mm.

 

[blokenoname]

Refitted the 14/23 mahogany glass core prototype with the new 10mm glass heater cover

Another one for @Megaton to test

BTW: before cutting and trimming glass... safety first!

 

[Megaton]

Whoop! It's like vape Christmas! Thank you @blokenoname can't wait to rigorously scientifically test it!

 

[brainiac]

Got your work cut out, eh @Megaton ?

Tidy refit on that mahogany unit Bloke
Matching base, too.
And, as I understand it, the glass core build is especially good for expressing flavour

Safety first indeed!
You should always wear one of those safety masks if you go anywhere near children

 

[blokenoname]

Just realized the pic!

That body is actually one of the very first mahogany bodies, I made. Just recycelt. And one of the better attempts, in producing a bottom cap. Still a tiny bit off, though.

 

[blokenoname]

Reusable straws are a great invention!

Bamboo straws like these might make for nice budget stems
All that's needed is cutting them to size and fasten a ss or glass tip to the front end:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0785SGRKY/ref=twister_B07CYYWHVT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Also ordered a longer Forstner bit. 5" long

 

[Megaton]

Got your work cut out, eh @Megaton ?

I have dedicated my life to the rigours extremely scientific testing.

Hahahaha good spot on that picture! Certainly wouldn't want to get a toddler in your eye!

 

[brainiac]

I have dedicated my life to the rigours extremely scientific testing.

+=


Some nice finds there, Bloke. I bought a bamboo straw recently and my OD 8mm ss tips fit snugly in the existing hole. Anything that saves drilling that hole down the centre of a stem is a boon.
You get one extra-long stem from each. Great for givaways.

Getting serious about halogen and glass core units here at Chateau Braniac.
Saw a dremel jig for glass cutting on youtube and put together a slightly ghetto version. It leaves both hands free for manipulating the glass, gives you a straight edge to work from and it's water cooled!

Splash guard included but not sure if it's really needed.
Bottle's not connected - works on a syphon system.

Cutting wheel can be moved back and forth allowing for a measured cut from that stop-board just below the head of the dremel. Could be used with a set-square to maintain a 90 degree angle.
Just press it against the wood and rotate. Should get a chance to try it out tomorrow.

 

[blokenoname]

Wow! Just wow! :top:

Very reasonable idea, that jig!

Now I've to make one myself

 

[blokenoname]

Bloody f*cking hell & bollocks & bugger me sideways

Glass tolerances again! One bloody 10mm/7mm glass straw out of six seems to have been a bit on the narrower side and slides aimlessly into the 13mm/10mm tube. The other 5 tubes won't fit, though! Simply too fat! 10th of a millimeter, or so

Luckily, I found 9mm/6mm boro glass straws now. Should arrive by tomorrow. For the glass heater covers, the 10mm straws are all right, as they get tapered anyway. But for the slide in tubes, I've to go for 9mm.

There was just enough left of that very first 10mm straw, to build the combo slide in tube for @Megaton s glass core beta from

Bit on the short side, though. Bit longer than a short Arizer stem now. Better wait until the 9mm stems arrive.

 

[brainiac]

Bloody f*cking hell & bollocks & bugger me sideways

Ha! So that was the final straw, was it?

Been cutting and drilling glass today. The dremel jig worked fine but the wind got up a bit and was blowing the water coolant stream about and had to move the water pipe in closer to the drill.

Cut 3cm off the bottom. Also trying out a new tech by drilling two holes near the base of the heater cover. They're placed to be level with the DC connector so that the wires can exit the glass tube without having to go out via the base. How this will work in practice I have no idea - but I'll let you know when I do

Below it is a bamboo drinking straw stem with bespoke tiny herb chamber for someone with copd.

 

[blokenoname]

Haha... yep! So to say

Man, that looks great! With being able to drill holes into the glass hc, this gives you a variety of options to try out, regarding wiring and air path

Bamboo straw stem looks great, too Hopefully, my stuff, tools etc. arrive all by tomorrow.

Was toying around with the Portable idea again, and something like a Misty Button happened

World's tiniest log on a stick, or so
There's a 50w cartridge heater within a glass hc inside.
Works with the 10mm glass stems. GonG is a shortened 12/21stem.

No idea, where this will lead. But it was fun to see it happening