Just received the
@DDave Chinese IH insert MOD. Originally, looking at the online photos of this little mod, I didn’t expect much. Thanks to this forum, at least I discovered it. I used what I had at home, you can see my temporary glass jar setup in photo a few posts up from this one. While it worked okay while I was waiting for the DDave mod, it was wonky. And Dave’s mod is so cheap, I figured let me see what solution he came up with, having proper materials and knowledge of the IH.
Before going further, the other reason to buy it, in my mind, is how many folks do you know take their time to develop a product that is not a money maker, and more likely just a pain to deal with business wise?
ANSWER: FEW
As well as being so specialized for a single cheap Chinese IH model. I wanted to buy it no matter how well my creation worked in comparison. (Dave’s is better). Anyways, cheers to Dave for making such an obscure and cheap add on.
Now, back to mini review. This mod will work on the SKJ Chinese IH heater, regardless of which removable insert the unit comes with. Evidently, there are some models, not sure if they are older units, but some came with a hard plastic insert, on these you place the mod into the insert following the instructions on Dave’s site. Other units, like mine come with a removable silicone insert. On these, you remove that insert and push the mod into the IH hole, with the mods silicone cut out tab folded out. It’s a tight fit, I used a touch of water for lube. I was able to get it flush to the rear of the units hole. The photo above shows how it looks all the way in. Like a stock piece!
I’ve done some temperature tests (see my post further up this page to see thermocoupler photo), with the mod all the way in. The results seem good, so I may not bother pulling it out further for more tests. I’m hoping the sweet spot for heating efficiency is all the way in, but if I get bored I’ll do more tests, with the mod not as deep in the unit. I think Dave nailed it though!
The mod holds both my 20M, and 19m mounted on a BB9 stem, HANDS FREE.
TESTS:
DV 20M at 68f room temp. All tests start with DV at room temp.
First insertion, IH cycles four times, temperature rises, IH times out, immediate reinsertion, after 2nd cycle, CAP CLICK.
TWO TEST RESULTS:
1) Temperature after the first 4 cycles = 266f
2) Temperature after the first 4 cycles = 274f
AFTER IMMEDIATE REINSERTION:
1) Two IH cycles to CLICK = 330f
2) Two IH cycles to CLICK = 351f
SKIP TOKE TEST:
Go to click in IH
Remove till cool down click, NO toke
Right back in to IH till click
FINAL TEMPERATURE = 385f (this is how I roll)
These temperatures above are representative of the inner tip measured on the SS screen, with no load. A fully loaded tip, until the herb is heat soaked is most likely less, not sure the by how much.
NOTE: No probe used on the glass BB9 wand, thermocoupler will NOT fit through the inner glass cooling nipples.
Every test with and without a herb load, got CAP CLICK right after final 4th cycle on IH before auto shutoff, so on a glass wand, the tip heats a bit faster. I’m hoping a Titanium tip will be even faster.
Now you know why the first hit after first heatup, is light vapor. And the second one, more vapor as metal has been preheated. I go to click, but no draw, cool down on magnet, then go back into Heater till click for my preferred vapor level. If you decide to go beyond the click, be careful, the IH heater will keep going, and you could combust. I haven’t yet, I’ll go a few seconds after the click, but no longer. Your mileage may vary, as well as differences between these cheap $50 heaters, using a glass stem, Stainless Steel tip versus Titanium tip (my first Ti tip is on the way). So there are lots of variables, but I can certainly say:
DDaves IH mod is a great and well thought out add on product that is never going to make him rich, so support the dude! If anyone can make a better one, bring it on......
