TETRAx

1nd3cEnt

Well-Known Member
The sticker said 0.191, cold read was 0.324,

That is quite a disparity, really does sound like a mod issue, as Golden said. For example, my tagged R is 0.248 ohms, & my Cuboid 200w reads the X's cold R as 0.248 ohms, absolutely spot on. Use the regulators to turn the display on, not the fire button, to keep the coils cold.

In the Tubo & Artic Fox firmware when used in Tubo/TC mode where temperature is user modulated, there are only 2 variables that are user configurable: R & TCR.

With regards to the variable P in Tubo/TC mode, user-configurability choice is only to set the maximum: P is equal to or less than 70.
 
1nd3cEnt,

SparkyMcBowl

Well-Known Member
Are you getting consistent cold resistance readings with the different mods you've tried?
The month old Gen3 Dual is getting 0.324. Two other mods (Cuboid 200, P80). wouldn't recognize it was there without putting a heat sink on first, then would both read 0.26x-0.28x.

That is quite a disparity, really does sound like a mod issue, as Golden said. For example, my tagged R is 0.248 ohms, & my Cuboid 200w reads the X's cold R as 0.248 ohms, absolutely spot on. Use the regulators to turn the display on, not the fire button, to keep the coils cold.

In the Tubo & Artic Fox firmware when used in Tubo/TC mode where temperature is user modulated, there are only 2 variables that are user configurable: R & TCR.

With regards to the variable P in Tubo/TC mode, user-configurability choice is only to set the maximum: P is equal to or less than 70.
With three otherwise perfectly functional mods all having problems, I'm certain the problem is with the one device that has trouble and has it across the board, the TuboX. I've left the tubo # set at 185, adjusting resistance as advised in the manual. As for other variables wattage is being kept at 25w, temp at 380F. I'm about to hunt down my multimeter.
 

1nd3cEnt

Well-Known Member
Are you referring to the "PWR" setting on the main page?

Yes, Power or P measured in watts shown on the primary display.
Two other mods (Cuboid 200, P80). wouldn't recognize it was there without putting a heat sink on first,

If I understand this correctly, it suggests that your X's 510 connector might be defective, possibly a loose wire somewhere in the wood housing.
 
1nd3cEnt,

SparkyMcBowl

Well-Known Member
If I understand this correctly, this suggests that your X's 510 connector might be defective, possibly a loose wire somewhere in the wood housing.
Yeah, that's what I'm afraid is the case, even though the soldering looks solid. I'm going to put it away until I hear back from Ralph. Really disappointing.
 
ginger_bier,
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funkyjunky

www.lamart.ch
Manufacturer
tuboman to the rescue! :spidey:

well it does sound like you are having contact issues. i suspect the center pin of the connector not making proper contact with the center pin of the mods. were you using an attachment with all those three that has a much protruding center pin?
its normal for tetrax that the handed out tag is not always on point since different models read resistance differently (even with the same model but different units) but 0.3xx something is too much to write it off as variance. id say 0.015 ohms is the max you should have to up or down from the recommended resistance.

i do test the devices during calibration with a p80 mod and all worked well, otherwise they wouldnt leave here.

anyhow i think it should work with the heatsink (which seems to add resistance on its own, you could get a better one with better materials to keep added resistance low). try the automatically read resistance at 0.26x on that mod that had this reading.

to tackle the real problem, here is a video of how to make the center pin protrude more if you like to try this. the idea is to squeeze the insulation polymer with pliers. if you dont want to fiddle with it, i am happy to perform this task for you.

 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
i informed fj too- The error "Device too hot" with wismec Reuleaux Gen3 , the solution is to check the golden screws under the battery lid. screw them tightly with small screwdiver, then you can cruise at 225c-230c without errors :rockon:
 
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GoldenBud,
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KurtSmoooth

Well-Known Member
Thanks for letting me know. I think my 420 order was lost by the post office. :thinker:
Oh well, at least the original one I own still works.
EDIT. Appears others in discord chat are also receiving items late. Hoping this is just a shipping delay and all I need to do is be patient.
@Potatovape lamart has bands in the store when selecting a vape or use a hair tie or rubber band.
 

dimmusp

Well-Known Member
tuboman to the rescue! :spidey:

well it does sound like you are having contact issues. i suspect the center pin of the connector not making proper contact with the center pin of the mods. were you using an attachment with all those three that has a much protruding center pin?
its normal for tetrax that the handed out tag is not always on point since different models read resistance differently (even with the same model but different units) but 0.3xx something is too much to write it off as variance. id say 0.015 ohms is the max you should have to up or down from the recommended resistance.

i do test the devices during calibration with a p80 mod and all worked well, otherwise they wouldnt leave here.

anyhow i think it should work with the heatsink (which seems to add resistance on its own, you could get a better one with better materials to keep added resistance low). try the automatically read resistance at 0.26x on that mod that had this reading.

to tackle the real problem, here is a video of how to make the center pin protrude more if you like to try this. the idea is to squeeze the insulation polymer with pliers. if you dont want to fiddle with it, i am happy to perform this task for you.


Interesting! I think mine has the same problem. I have tools, so I'll try doing it on my own. That said, it's not clear to me: why are you squeezing the insulation? Wouldn't the pliers end up cutting it, BTW? Thanks

Does anyone know where i can buy a silicone band to connect my tetrax to a mod?

Mine came with a silicone band (thoughtfully matched to the green and black cable), but I don't really know how I'm supposed to use it. It's too loose to hold the TETRAx to a P90 so I just hold both parts with one or two hands.
 
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dimmusp,

KurtSmoooth

Well-Known Member
Well my Tetrax 420 has arrived safe and sound! The mailman delivered it today by hand and said it may have taken a while because a digit was missing from my address on the label.
Shipped 4/28
Delivered 6/8
Hoping others are getting their orders soon!
Getting my box mod setup on tubo firmware right now. Will send pics in a bit.
 

VirginVape10X

Active Member
I received my Wismec Reuleaux RX Gen3 Dual today and proceeded to successfully update it with the TUBO firmware. I set and locked the coil resistance to .232 (per the paper as opposed to the mod reading it a bit higher at .266). I set Check to No and also confirmed that values M1-3 are set to 185. However, the wattage was auto-set to 70, which seems really high (considering my other mod vapes typically run around 40W), and I can’t seem to figure out how to change it while in TUBO/TCR mode. Also curious to know what I should set the lower end of the temp range to if I‘m going for flavor/terpenes. How about max temp if I want to avoid combusting? Appreciate any help!
 
VirginVape10X,

KurtSmoooth

Well-Known Member
I received my Wismec Reuleaux RX Gen3 Dual today and proceeded to successfully update it with the TUBO firmware. I set and locked the coil resistance to .232 (per the paper as opposed to the mod reading it a bit higher at .266). I set Check to No and also confirmed that values M1-3 are set to 185. However, the wattage was auto-set to 70, which seems really high (considering my other mod vapes typically run around 40W), and I can’t seem to figure out how to change it while in TUBO/TCR mode. Also curious to know what I should set the lower end of the temp range to if I‘m going for flavor/terpenes. How about max temp if I want to avoid combusting? Appreciate any help!
funky junk would have to comment with specifics but the firmware does not constantly supply 70w. It goes UP to 70w upon heatup but the coils are never locked at 70w. I've NEVER had my coils glow or even become warm.

You should be in TUBO mode not WATTage mode. As long as you are there, the vape will regular the wattage accordingly. If you use cruise control you can see this happening.

Temp range I don't touch I just select temps from about 385-440. Keep in mind high temps such as 440 are not the same as 440 on other vapes that directly come in contact with the heater. My apologies this doesn't directly answer but hoping it gets you on the right track.
 
KurtSmoooth,

MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
View attachment 1357
As promised, glamour shots. Boy this boxwood model feels even more well built than my original basic one. Got it up and running last night and performing just as good as my original one :)
Awesome that you finally got it. I noticed the 510 connector wood on yours is different from the box which is kind of unique. Both my pieces of wood were mahogany.
 
MikeRotchHertz,

MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
That is worth some cool points. Mine has the same cable colors and your wood looks mahogany too. I bet it was from the same piece of wood. That makes us like bud brothers or something
 

1nd3cEnt

Well-Known Member
the resistance read by my P80 is still between 0.28 and 0.30, which is way higher than the 0.217 in the calibration paper:

Dude, can you flash another mod with the latest Tubo firmware to make certain your P80 mod is not faulty?
 
1nd3cEnt,

dimmusp

Well-Known Member
Dude, can you flash another mod with the latest Tubo firmware to make certain your P80 mod is not faulty?
Nope, it's the only mod I have.

It's not completely broken though, if I raise the resistance in the Coils screen the TETRAx works. It's just that it's very strange that it's so different from what @funkyjunky measured.

Also, when I use it sometimes the temperature shows crazy values (like 500 C or something) for a moment and then goes back to normal.

Edit: Are there any newer single battery mods supported by the Tubo firmware? I'd rather not get one with two or three batteries due to the weight, lower efficiency per cell, and having to buy more batteries.
 
dimmusp,
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