StemPod by MPL

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I don't want to get too hung up on the Milaana comparison... I bought the StemPod because it's different and more flexible (in theory). I'm just trying to understand the results I'm seeing and hoping to compare with other StemPod users.

As it stands, if I set my wattage and TC temp lower (28-30 watts @ 380-400 with low airflow, for example), I have to draw for almost 30 seconds to get visible vapor... Which is difficult for me. As I go higher with a bit more airflow, I get decent vapor production, but with a very dark center in the bowl and it's shredding batteries (the battery use doesn't bother me per se, it just doesn't seem right).

Based on the videos and livestreams I've seen, I'm convinced I'm doing something wrong. I've tried drawing both extremely slow, faster and somewhere in between.

Anyway, I'll give the wattage mode a shot for testing but TCR is very appealing. Thanks for the suggestions!

Well sure we can figure out whats wrong. I stopped my count at 400 puffs at 29% power left on the batteries to test stempod today. Mine a 3 battery mod but still you should be getting more hits of battery than it sounds like.

TCR is very appealing reason suggested watt is to rule out something wrong with the mod. first before suggesting other causes.

If can get the hit you like you want in watt mode then it's a TC setting. What software are you using?
 

superdang9000

Flameo Hotman!
Well sure we can figure out whats wrong. I stopped my count at 400 puffs at 29% power left on the batteries to test stempod today. Mine a 3 battery mod but still you should be getting more hits of battery than it sounds like.

TCR is very appealing reason suggested watt is to rule out something wrong with the mod. first before suggesting other causes.

If can get the hit you like you want in watt mode then it's a TC setting. What software are you using?


Ah yeah, I hadn't really considered the mod since it's relatively new. I'm using a Voopoo Alpha One with their config app. It seemed to work well with my Sai but I haven't really tested it with anything else... I do have an EHPro that I could do some limited testing with as well, but the TC options are much more limited.

Anyway, I'll definitely try the wattage mode when I get home this evening.
 
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HerbieVonVapster

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This thread needs more pix of the vape itself and less of mods! :cool:

Hehe guilty I really need find a site to host pics. It doesn't look half bad on my wismec. Still waiting on a slow boat from china on the sinuous p80.

Finding the coil on the stempod to use slightly more wattage than the splinter. I also finding temperature control easier to set up out the box. Well the temperature where wrong value didn't have any trouble with not reading material. It might be it not having the mica or being 316L.

The adjustable airflow is something I need mess more with, but I already like that option. The glass included stem restricted draw still iffy on if I like. Getting great results from wooden stem so not sure how much I will use it. Still don't have a stem like it so will find some use for it.

Going play with it more tonight. Will try get some pictures up too.
 

ray_b

Well-Known Member
I've been running the StemPod in TCR mode on a Smoant Charon Mini and a Smoant Battlestar Mini. I've just about fine tuned my settings, almost there. With both mods I'm using TCR=285 (Dan's recommendation), 38 watts, and temp set for 410F for the whole session. Using the Charon Mini with water I use 40 watts and temp set at 420F, takes a little more to get browning the same as without water. Without water I have the air flow adjustment set for 1/2 - 1/3 open, with water 1/3 - 1/4 open. Battery life seems okay so far, doesn't seem excessively short.

I just finished testing the StemPod on the Battlestar Mini and it's a nice combo. Plus TC mode on my two Smoant mods just works so well that it's almost effortless to get dense vapor. I do turn the stem 1/3 - 1/2 rotation after each draw to minimize stirring. I used the included cooling stem and the standard (?!?) Splinter stem and the cooling stem is noticeably cooler for me. I like the cooling stem and I'll continue to use it.

I had written up a brief, preliminary review of the StemPod but my computer froze and I lost it on the reboot. So for now I'll say that the StemPod is fucking great. Any stem or glass that has an 18mm male connection will fit. No worries if this or that will fit, it all fits! It's an attractive 510 atty and the performance is outstanding, the stock coils are just right for how I vape. I've only been using it for three days but so far I'm extremely impressed with this vape.

PTwIuycC_o.jpg
gsBwjLWB_o.jpg


Edited to add:

I feel at the retail cost there should be a couple of extra rubber gaskets included. Maybe even a replacement set of coil and extra stem.
Agreed, especially extra rubber gaskets, looks like a high wear item.

Stems fit in nice and tight only you do need to be a little careful when pulling stem out. Or you might pull it off the deck. Hold onto stempod not mod when removing stem.
Good advice, spot on. One also needs to be careful when removing the stem from the StemPod, the rim of the basket screen can hang on the gasket/o-ring and send the ABV flying.

Personally i be using a wood stem. Planning this be used more when outside. With a wooden stem not much here to break.
Got a pic and/or link? A wood stem would be great when away from home. I like the included cooling stem but they are fragile. I bought two spares and broke one when washing them.

Hehe guilty I really need find a site to host pics.
I recently switched to imgbox.com from imgur and I like it a lot. Clean, simple interface and hot linking is specifically allowed.

Crap, just noticed I posted back to back. I'll edit my post.
 
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superdang9000

Flameo Hotman!
All right, little update here.

Got home and tried @HerbieVonVapster's suggestion to set in wattage mode. I was able to produce some pretty good clouds but I noticed it was still centralizing the heat quite a bit, about the size of a BB down the middle. Tried a few different draw techniques and airflow combinations, but same thing. Loaded a new bowl, set it back to TC to compare and... same results.

Decided to try it without the o-ring installed and noticed the stem sat at least a few mm lower in the chamber. The centralization wasn't nearly as bad this time, but still slightly present. So, I employed the same technique I used on my Milaana and rotated the stem about 1/4 turn for each draw. It gives a much more even heat distribution, I'm able to milk a bowl in fewer draws, and don't need to stir (mostly so far). So, it seems the combination of the bowl being closer to the heat and being able to rotate the bowl freely helped tremendously. It's possible the effect might be exacerbated with the XL8R stem because the joint is slightly shorter? Don't know if that'd make much of a difference but I do like being able to lift and rotate to control the bowl rather than stirring in between. In my experience, if you stir, it's much more likely to drop down to the bottom screen.

I did have to keep my wattage and temp fairly high for those bigger clouds but it feels much better. Going to continue playing around with it and tweaking settings, but here's what I'm using now: 34 watts, 440 F, TCR 285, 1/2 airflow
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
Hehe guilty I really need find a site to host pics. It doesn't look half bad on my wismec.

I gotta check out imgbox.com, but tinypic isn't bad, straight forward.

Will add the custom material in the fcshare file.

What is this?

Mine is a preorder so please keep that in mind.

What does pre-order have to do with anything? The SP is based on the 3rd & final prototype so I don't assume any further enhancements are gonna be made.

Finding the coil on the stempod to use slightly more wattage than the splinter. I also finding temperature control easier to set up out the box. Well the temperature where wrong value didn't have any trouble with not reading material. It might be it not having the mica or being 316L.

Please explain what you mean by your highlighted text above.

The device included stem with screen and allen wrench. I feel at the retail cost there should be a couple of extra rubber gaskets included. Maybe even a replacement set of coil and extra stem.

I can see an extra gasket & maybe a set of coils, but I think including an extra stem is a bit much. If you look at the Splinter at the same price point, you're only getting an extra stem (or arbitrarily 2) & 2 (or arbitrarily 4) baskets screens as accessories. With the SP, you're getting a case, while the Splinter only comes with a burlap sack.

And how many screens are included w/ the SP? I think 2 would sound about right.

I had written up a brief, preliminary review of the StemPod but my computer froze and I lost it on the reboot.

Just a well learned heads up: When you're gonna type something up always use Wordpad (assuming Windows) &, right after you type the 1st line or paragraph, save it so if the worst happens all your time & effort hasn't gone to shit.
 
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lazylathe

Almost there...
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ray_b

Well-Known Member
I have no clue about box mods at all....
And yet I find myself to be in possession of a Kangertech KBox Mini TC-74 that is brand new.
Would this work with a ModPod?
Or would something more substantial be better?

Found a manual if that helps at all!
I see it has various wire types it can be set to or a Watts mode.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...nual_2b878784-e3cc-4291-a915-54b76986259a.pdf
That mod should work fine with the StemPod. Are you concerned about lack of power because the mod is single cell? My Battlestar Mini is single cell and it works great. I was monitoring the heat generated by the StemPod, by the end of my session the top of the mod was warm but nothing alarming. A single cell mod might be a problem if you want to do a lot of back to back sessions.

I can see an extra gasket & maybe a set of coils, but I think including an extra stem is too much. If you look at the Splinter at the same price point, you're only getting an extra stem (or arbitrarily 2) & 2 (or arbitrarily 4) baskets screens as an accessory. With the SP, you're getting a case, while the Splinter only comes with a burlap sack.

And how many screens are included w/ the SP? I think 2 would sound about right.
The SP came with 2 screens. I agree with you, extra o-rings and maybe extra coils as part of the package. IMO the case isn't a big selling point, the lid on mine is funky and the case is kind of big. I can see the case being an advantage for ease of packaging and shipping and it does a good job of protecting the contents.

Just a well learned heads up: When you're gonna type something up always use Wordpad (assuming Windows) &, right after you type the 1st line or paragraph, save it so if the worst happens all your time & effort work hasn't gone to shit.
Heh. The same advice I give people who lose their work when posting to forums. I always use a plain text editor when preparing longer comments and involving image tags. But I've gotten lazy, I'll open the editor and type up my comments, never actually creating a file to save. Bit me in the ass today.:)
 
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lazylathe

Almost there...
That mod should work fine with the StemPod. Are you concerned about lack of power because the mod is single cell? My Battlestar Mini is single cell and it works great. I was monitoring the heat generated by the StemPod, by the end of my session the top of the mod was warm but nothing alarming. A single cell mod might be a problem if you want to do a lot of back to back sessions.

As I said, I know nothing about these things! LOL!
From what I have read it is desirable to have one that has a "cruise" mode?
Something that you can update the firmware on and use the Tubo firmware for superior performance?
Just want to make sure this one will work for the ModPd with just the Watts mode.
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Couple of questions reading the supplied info seems like you can remove the heat sleeve for cleaning. Cut hands up a bit trying get if off and wonder if doing something wrong.

Also how do you remove the gasket inside the bowl?

Got a pic and/or link? A wood stem would be great when away from home. I like the included cooling stem but they are fragile. I bought two spares and broke one when washing them.

The wooden ones I have are from Alan he does excellent work. Bought mine couple years ago and they held up wonderful. With hand issue glass isn't the best choice for me. Part of reason decided on stempod. I really like the splinter but fear I will break the glass too much to be portable.

I did have to keep my wattage and temp fairly high for those bigger clouds but it feels much better. Going to continue playing around with it and tweaking settings, but here's what I'm using now: 34 watts, 440 F, TCR 285, 1/2 airflow

Great news so on the right track. I looked up the mod you are using. Looks like it has the gene chip. It should be able do really good TC.

I did little searching and seems the suggested TCR for 316L stainless steel is 1300. We are getting bit away from stempod and into mod discussion going add a link to some tcr info on gene chip. It's a little different in way it does TCR.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/voopoo-drag-gene-chip-tcr-conversions.835787/

My best suggestion is do a search for TCR and gene chip. More than willing to help just not familiar with the gene chips. You have a fairly good mod from what I have read. When we do figure this out please do post settings in mod area. It would help others out with settings for the gene chip.
 
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ray_b

Well-Known Member
As I said, I know nothing about these things! LOL!
From what I have read it is desirable to have one that has a "cruise" mode?
Something that you can update the firmware on and use the Tubo firmware for superior performance?
Just want to make sure this one will work for the ModPd with just the Watts mode.
In my opinion your mod will work fine as is, don't worry about extra firmware at this point. Many box mods out there work fine out of the box for our vaping purposes. Start in variable watts mode so you can get a feel for the StemPod and how it heats. After vaping in VW mode for a while I'd recommend trying TC/TCR mode. TC is in the name of your mod so it should have TC/TCR mode. Do you currently have a StemPod?
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
In my opinion your mod will work fine as is, don't worry about extra firmware at this point. Many box mods out there work fine out of the box for our vaping purposes. Start in variable watts mode so you can get a feel for the StemPod and how it heats. After vaping in VW mode for a while I'd recommend trying TC/TCR mode. TC is in the name of your mod so it should have TC/TCR mode. Do you currently have a StemPod?

Thanks that eases my mind a bit!
I do not have one yet as I was not sure if the box mod I had would work.
Saw a post on Reddit and remembered it was on special for a while and checked to see if I had missed the boat! Appears I have not, now I just have to justify it to myself...
My cart is already loaded with a ModPod, extra coil thingies and some baskets and screens!
Just need to hit the GO button...
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I gotta check out imgbox.com, but tinypic isn't bad, straight forward.

HerbieVonVapster said:
Will add the custom material in the fcshare file.

What is this?

It's a file for dna mods that has some custom settings and screens to be used with DNA mods. Please use FCSHARE2.0

https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/?_fromLogout=1


What does pre-order have to do with anything? The SP is based on the 3rd & final prototype so I don't assume any further enhancements are gonna be made.

Sorry meant more the packaging than device. Mine didn't include stashpod since wanted it asap that a pre order option. Plus wasn't sure if was the final retail packaging. Hoping he see comments and adds either a repair kit on site or includes some extra gaskets screens in future.

HerbieVonVapster said:
Finding the coil on the stempod to use slightly more wattage than the splinter. I also finding temperature control easier to set up out the box. Well the temperature where wrong value didn't have any trouble with not reading material. It might be it not having the mica or being 316L.

Please explain what you mean by your highlighted text above.

From my understanding the coils in this are made with316L SS. I think the mica in splinter causes a little issue with TCR. Had some problems with splinter setting up TC. With the cvs file of 316L notched coil the temps displayed where way off. Adjusted file in FCSHARE2.0 corrects this and temp readout matches better.

HerbieVonVapster said:
The device included stem with screen and allen wrench. I feel at the retail cost there should be a couple of extra rubber gaskets included. Maybe even a replacement set of coil and extra stem.

I can see an extra gasket & maybe a set of coils, but I think including an extra stem is a bit much. If you look at the Splinter at the same price point, you're only getting an extra stem (or arbitrarily 2) & 2 (or arbitrarily 4) baskets screens as accessories. With the SP, you're getting a case, while the Splinter only comes with a burlap sack.

And how many screens are included w/ the SP? I think 2 would sound about right.

Good points although the splinter did include 2 stems. There where no other extra's included. The stems used with the stempod are also kinda fragile. I can see breaking one much easier than the splinter stem. Really don't see them costing very much. I feel for price point 2 would be nice. Can't comment on case since I passed on it. Already seen comments on one has broken already. Hopefully he allows us pre order folks a chance buying wooden one in the future.


Not sure did this right my answer are in the ones in bold above.

Ended up removing the inter gasket . I find with one good hand very hard to remove stems with it installed.
Getting better hits without it using a wooden stem.
 
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HerbieVonVapster,
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Well, I got my Stempod late in the mail late Wed, shipped out this monday, USPS priority across the continent, pretty good :tup:

I put a few sessions through the stempod and I must say :o @supershredderdan you really made a hit with this one! :clap::rockon:

Right out of the box, no modification needed, only to set your mod properly, and this thing can deliver "0-100 mph" quality convection vape real easy, and plenty much of it too! :brow: :science:

Results and impressions are "early" but very good so far, let me break it down if I could:

ZLqzceeM_o.jpg


I started with my trusty evic still loaded with AF that I set up a stempod profile for real quick. From reading others' early reviews so far, I decided to be "conservative" with a measly 30w, TCR 285, and 380F. I decided to go with my new showerhead ash-catcher + j-hook "sherlock" bubbler combo with an 18/18M joint (which I have been enjoying much with my tubo, lately, which looks on in the background)

First draws, I got only light vapor, with nice flavor, but very little vapor. I noted a very slight metallic taste first (and I did "burn off" the coils before I vaped with them first) but I really couldn't notice it later on.

I noticed on my evic's screen, that during my draw, the watt output was staying maxed out at 30w, and the temp was not reaching "protection" and hovering 20-30F under my intended temp....:suspicious: so in essence I was running it in "watts" mode, and I was under-powering it. (air throttle was wide open btw)

So naturally, I had to increase the watts, I upped it to 35w and got my next basket screen ready.

LoroFZbG_o.jpg

MkTvIQnK_o.jpg


That first bowl I loaded just like I do my tubo, lightly tamped rimless basket screen with a small mesh screen covering it. I was getting a slight browning in the middle of my flowers at first (even more than it shows in the pic), though not quite charring, far from combusting. With my full-lunged, watt-deprived draw, and no rotation of my stempod or glass stem during my draw, this is understandable. I wouldn't see this in my more successful, later loads.

EBYzf3Gd_o.jpg

The flowers of that first load, it was pretty nicely brown beside the little dark spots you can see. I didn't get a great cloud from this load, but @ 35w it was better. I managed to get a pretty decent cloud, but with raising temp to 390-ish, I saw my watt output was still maxed out @35w the whole draw, not quite reaching temp:shrug: My battery was already low, so I decided to give the stem-vic-pod a rest, charge it up, and load up tuboevic with some moar watts in TCR mode to really see what it can do...

So a few hours later, full battery, smooth flashing over to tuboevic, just set a few simple #s: TCR 285, 50w, my preferences for the "clicks" (2 clicks to cruise, 3 clicks for edit, 4 clicks for step-cruise) and also the cruise / step options also.

I locked the coil at 0.121Ω. It had "set" itself @ 0.123 by default, not locked, but I used the live-resistance monitor to see the coil Ω was extremely stable, no wobble at all, and it was resting @ 0.121, so I inputted that. All this took about 3 or 4 minutes, I'm quite familiar with tuboevic, myevic, etc.

95HreDHx_o.jpg

I moved over to my dhgate klein torus 14mm recycler rig with funkyjunky's 18/14mm adapter, and started at 390F. And the fun really started now! No more extra screen on top of my flowers, cruise mode, full open air throttle, I let the coil warm up for just 2 seconds before I take a long rip, and I pull the stempod & glass stem out of the rig to "carb it" and empty the rig to inhale my whole puff....:o :spliff:

:science: very nice! big smooth clouds, nice & easy...

I was making myself cross-eyed to observe the screen during my puff, but I saw the watts maxed out @50w for a while but it finally was hitting "protection" (or showing over the set temp, with tuboevic FW) and the watts output would throttle down to the 30-40s, indicating proper temp control function, to help avoid overheating / combusting :clap:

I moved up to 400F, and started twisting my SP around the glass stem during a puff on cruise mode to get the "swirl" effect and toast my flowers more evenly, and continued getting great puffs. The flavor was great on the first cloud, and it reduces a little from subsequent hits as you'd expect, but stays good and wasn't getting stale, over-toasted, burned-popcorn tasting...not at least until I would milk a good 10-12 puffs from a meager 0.1, 0.12g sized loads.

I had set a long cruise for 6 minutes, and after a quick swap onto a second load, I got a "device too hot" error on my mod :( but that might have been from my over-enthusiasm, and also maybe from leaving it on "cruise" when I wasn't puffing all the time. On cruise when you aren't puffing, the watts bounces low as it should, but it still lets the CPU get warmer, so maybe doing short cruises, clicking off when you don't puff, would be better.

q4AWTzBE_o.jpg

Those next 2 rapid bowls came out more evenly, with a much less pronounced hot spot in the middle. I don't think I even stirred, just swirled the SP.

We don't have lots of good pics of the SP deck up close, I think we could use those.
1B8vybYf_o.jpg

The middle part is paired with my 18/14mm adapter from the tubo evic here


RD79sLl1_o.jpg

And here above is the detachable, mid-section of the SP. Down this barrel is where your glass or wood stem, adapter, mouthpiece, etc is inserted. The o-ring serves it's function pretty well. It's a slight drag on a glass stem, but you can lift it gently for less resistance, if you like to twist. Maybe a little glycerin around the o-ring to make it glide too? :hmm: Supposedly you can remove this o-ring but that seems tough? I can see this being a "wear item" with heavy stempod use, I agree it would be a good idea for Dan to throw in a few extras in future orders ;)

EV48LckX_o.jpg

And this is the bottom end of the mid section, which slips over the deck and grips the o-rings on the 510-base, or build deck. With a twist, it glides over the deck with ease. Almost too easy, I wish when I was doing my "glass stem twist" during a puff, that I could grip & twist the mod, but that just twists the air intake closed during a puff. :( So you hold & twist the middle part of the SP, which might be difficult to do without cruise mode, but the twisty-swirl method is only optional. I think you can get even vaping of your load without it, and perhaps a little stirring?

So I'm really encouraged by my SP at this point, and got pretty damn lit vaping only about 0.4-0.5g on it so far in 4 sessions? So I decide to up the ante with some mild concentrates :evil: Mild in the sense that this is just some "volcano oil" as I call it. Just the condensation-scrapings that I recover from the inside of my volcano solid valve (and crafty cooling unit too) whenever I clean it. Been sitting in my jar for years, low-priority oil I don't care too much about, maybe only 40-50% thc with a little bit of dusty kiefy, vaped particles, but I "test vape / dab" this volcano oil at times, and it is still quite potent and tastes decent, with a shatter / pull snap consistency.

NGs3L1B2_o.jpg


vape...piff...:D

man..the SP really shined with that little dot of oil on top :brow: The flavor was still great with my old oil and tiny bed o' flower, I must have taken 20 puffs with a couple stirs to kill that bowl.

t3HPoJWd_o.jpg

It came out pretty dark because of my volcano oil getting stirred around, but very even, far far from combusting. I ended my cruise at 410F and even the contrived, assy-end hits weren't that bad. :)

So this is just one day so far, but I'm strongly impressed with the Stempod so far! It's solid and well-machined, with a little heft. You might say it's a little big, with the glass stem perhaps, but it's not prohibitively large, and I can easily see this thing making it's way into my rotation. I don't have lots of other on-demand convection portables to compare it too, but the vapor strength & smoothness is at least comparable to the tubo evic. :o:bowdown:and I'm not even pushing the limit 100% yet. There was slight harshness, but only on taking long, rapid, repeat draws, on the higher end of temps. Taste-wise? I think the glass & steel 'tubos' on funkyjunky's work might have a slight edge, flavor-wise, but it's really hard to say. I noticed only very slight metallic taste at the start, and couldn't notice it later. I'll look out for it, but maybe my coils just got broken-in and seasoned?

If I were to note some "down-sides" or other things: More regarding my mod & battery, I got "only" 2 bowls on a 70% full, old VTC5 at first, and I'm on track to get 4 bowls with a newer, fresh VTC5, which isn't all that great, but not horrible, and not an issue with an easy-cell swapping mod like a VTC/Vtwo mini. And for those that don't mind the heft, larger, 2 & 3 cell battery mods should match well with the SP.

Also, I was getting "device too hot" messages a couple times, somewhat easily, but I think if I don't let the device idle on cruise as much and get a better feel for it & practice, I can manage that better....

sooo....yea! w00t stempod!

Little reason to hold out on this if you're into 510 dry herb, full-convection, TC, open & adjustable air flow, adaptability & customizability! I think you've got a hit here, Dan. :clap:
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
:rolleyes: Sigh.... I struggle to squeeze these posts in to under 10k characters, but usually fail too. :rolleyes: But hopefully you stempodders will appreciate a little detail? So, no, Summer, we don't need to / can't merge my last 2 posts.

But I do have a few questions for @supershredderdan regarding some settings on the tuboevic software / firmware:

Are your recommended settings with the PID controller to be just the "stock" settings of boost 50%, and 4000, 650, 10 for PID?

These are the values that come pre-loaded, and it seemed to work just fine? Temperature will over-shoot, mostly when you stop your draw, or if you pre-heat your coils, not drawing, but this is pure convection, so that's ok. That's more-or-less what I observe on-screen with my tubo as well.

Also, for the SHUNT ("SHR" under expert) this is set to 125 (125%) by default, and I didn't even bother to notice this before I started vaping. It seemed to be performing fine this way, and this is how FJ has his tubo evics set up, but making shunt corrections is a rather critical parameter to be modifying, from what I understand, and shouldn't be moved from 100% unless you have a good reason to; measuring & calibrating the mod, right?

Should SHR be left at 125 or set to 100, or something else?

And also less critically, the battery profile. It's set for the 30Q (samsung) battery profile by default, I think this only affects the battery reporting regarding volts & charge % right?

I know you're crawling around the Champs probably having a good time, but hopefully you (or Kerozen :D) can answer when you get a moment, thanks!
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Thanks! :D Keep us on track & organized, Summer.

A kief-topped flower bowl in the morning for you.

K9887oDY_o.jpg


Do you have a SP already?

edit: thanks sickman. I did not try the econo-mode setting in the tubo software to see if that will help with the CPU / battery on cruise mode. I tried that setting with the actual tubo evic, but with the larger glass heaters on that vape, and my tendency to always use water, I didn't like how eco-mode took the coils an extra 3-4 seconds to "detect" my draw and start making vapor (not as "on-demand"), vs eco mode off, which would produce vapor instantly upon draw (when glass tubos are warm)

Eco mode on the tubo software might be more feasible for my style of usage in cruise mode now with the Stempod, since we have smaller, lighter heaters that might be more "responsive" to draws on eco mode? I'll try next time...

Edit 2: I got just a few good rips from that kief bowl but it packed a punch :ko:
 
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sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
I had set a long cruise for 6 minutes, and after a quick swap onto a second load, I got a "device too hot" error on my mod :( but that might have been from my over-enthusiasm, and also maybe from leaving it on "cruise" when I wasn't puffing all the time.

Great review VD650.

Have you tried using the battery Econo settings to turn down the battery consumption between puffs? This should stretch your battery life and may make the device cooler between draws.

I would be curious if the "device too hot" error is less likely if the mod is not physically higher than the SP?"
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Great review and thank you for sharing lots great info there.. Going follow this since no nothing yet about AF and FJ software.

Might be a great option for Dan to offer a Mod/Stempod package in the future.

He could program it to the best settings right out the box.

Figure that it would be closer to a tubo Evic in function. He should be able add a nice mod and stay close to tubo evic price point.

With all the different box mods it's going be a lot extra work for Dan answering mod questions. Much easier to have a official supported device. Direct other to the general mod setting thread.

Most of us are new to battery box mods. I feel there's a market here, that would buy a complete ready to go package.
 

Oogendoogan

Well-Known Member
:rolleyes: Sigh.... I struggle to squeeze these posts in to under 10k characters, but usually fail too. :rolleyes: But hopefully you stempodders will appreciate a little detail? So, no, Summer, we don't need to / can't merge my last 2 posts.

But I do have a few questions for @supershredderdan regarding some settings on the tuboevic software / firmware:

Are your recommended settings with the PID controller to be just the "stock" settings of boost 50%, and 4000, 650, 10 for PID?

These are the values that come pre-loaded, and it seemed to work just fine? Temperature will over-shoot, mostly when you stop your draw, or if you pre-heat your coils, not drawing, but this is pure convection, so that's ok. That's more-or-less what I observe on-screen with my tubo as well.

Also, for the SHUNT ("SHR" under expert) this is set to 125 (125%) by default, and I didn't even bother to notice this before I started vaping. It seemed to be performing fine this way, and this is how FJ has his tubo evics set up, but making shunt corrections is a rather critical parameter to be modifying, from what I understand, and shouldn't be moved from 100% unless you have a good reason to; measuring & calibrating the mod, right?

Should SHR be left at 125 or set to 100, or something else?

And also less critically, the battery profile. It's set for the 30Q (samsung) battery profile by default, I think this only affects the battery reporting regarding volts & charge % right?

I know you're crawling around the Champs probably having a good time, but hopefully you (or Kerozen :D) can answer when you get a moment, thanks!
I’m using the tubo software. Didn’t change any of the stock settings. Just set TCR to 285 as per dans reccomendations and it works like a champ. Works great in wattage mode too. I haven’t tried to mess with pre heat and I don’t even know what shunt means but I set my M1 TC to TCR 285 and it cruises perfectly. There’s some videos on my Instagram - @Oogendoogan feel free to check them out. If you have any advice for me about the FJ firmware I am open ears. But I don’t think any settings need to be changed, just use wattage mode or make sure your TCR is at 285.

I would love some advice though. I’m very unframiliar with the software and I’m hearing about pre heat and eco mode and “shunt.” Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
Oogendoogan,

PoopMachine

Well-Known Member
I feel like Im a little behind on my mod box game since I havent been using my DTs lately.

I have a Evic VTC Dual, a Cuboid Mini and a eLeaf Nano... Im not opposed to buying something else to run this beast but like I said, Im behind the times in the firmware game, mod selection, etc.

Whats some solid recommendations for a mod box for this unit? Ill probably try it on my VTC Dual in wattage mode just to see how it is but I wouldnt mind picking up something more current if something better is out.

Not trying to turn this into a mod box discussion.. Im only interested in a new mod for the Stempod. I can keep the others for DTs and my other portables.

Thanks!
 
PoopMachine,
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