Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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Easywider

Simple is the way
73.5W is insane.

73.5 IS insane! I saw that and thought @shervin2 was crazy and had to try it out for myself.
The Z kicks like a mule! Super responsive, I've been doing 1-2 second preheat , then about 2 seconds of medium fast draw then 2-3 seconds of fast ( like clearing a water piece draw ) massive clouds clear a stem in 2-3 short 5 second pulls. Breathed some new life into an old friend. Still 73 is a bit wild and I've settled at 65w for some wattage mode fun.
 

shervin2

The Two-Click Bowlshevik & Sticksimus Briximus
73.5 IS insane! I saw that and thought @shervin2 was crazy and had to try it out for myself.
The Z kicks like a mule! Super responsive, I've been doing 1-2 second preheat , then about 2 seconds of medium fast draw then 2-3 seconds of fast ( like clearing a water piece draw ) massive clouds clear a stem in 2-3 short 5 second pulls. Breathed some new life into an old friend. Still 73 is a bit wild and I've settled at 65w for some wattage mode fun.

Looks like I'm a heavy hitter, hah! I just like pushing things to the limit to see how they work. Anything above 50 is too much if you're not loading or drawing correctly, but I'm so used to drawing large air with a big torch, big clouds with the sticky brick (went through every scenario on that thing, truly a workhorse... It's like an instrument that takes time to play).

My mod isn't 100 percent accurate, and also battery amperages are a factor too, since they are user variables, so YMMV.

But anyway, I've toned it down a bit to around 60 with a fresh set of lg batteries. 5-6 second draw while holding down fire gives me just what I need.

RBT team, praises to you guys.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Ya'll are way above RBT recommended wattage and are asking for trouble. Any warranty support may be unlikely if you need it and your use can be determined...
Yeah, I think Herbie even lowered the max wattage in his dna TC profiles to max at 45W instead of 50W. And in that context it'd only ever be pulling that for a second or two.

I also don't like fucking with settings that put me close to combustion because it can put a stink on the vape that lingers after the stem has been cleaned.
 

david8613

Well-Known Member
guys we have to play nice with our toys! or mommy is gonna give them to the salvation army. but seriously guys use it as intended, its a beautiful vape.
 
david8613,

shervin2

The Two-Click Bowlshevik & Sticksimus Briximus
Ya'll are way above RBT recommended wattage and are asking for trouble. Any warranty support may be unlikely if you need it and your use can be determined...

I don't want to come off wrong, but I'm not advocating for anyone to go over what's on the brochure, but daredevils will be daredevils, and I have a wallet to feed the habit of destroying things :)

I'd be happy to pay RBT for another ZV2, but I don't think I would have to. This is not a fragile device unless you are reckless.
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I don't want to come that off wrong, but I'm not advocating for anyone to go over what's on the brochure, but daredevils will be daredevils, and I have a wallet to feed the habit of destroying things :)

I'd be happy to pay RBT for another ZV2, but I don't think I would have to. This is not a fragile device unless you are reckless.
For only $109 shipped I'd just get a spare or two so we're never without the ZV2 goodness.

Do we suppose there's increased danger of a battery mishap from overdriving a Splinter? It's one thing to be devil may care about a hundred dollar vape. Those clips of 18650s off-gassing are scary af though.

That reminds me, I need to head over to the box mod thread in Ask FC and get someone to remind of those exploding battery proof bags for storing my cells. I should maybe keep my Splinter menagerie bagged as well.
 
bossman,

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Do we suppose there's increased danger of a battery mishap from overdriving a Splinter? It's one thing to be devil may care about a hundred dollar vape. Those clips of 18650s off-gassing are scary af though.
I don't see any reason why overdriving the Splinter should be dangerous for your batteries. It's the mod that manages the batteries, not Splinter. I would think the danger is only to the Splinter. (I am NOT a battery expert, see the link in my SIG)
If money were not tight I would get a second Z as a backup, and I would probably get one of those expensive DNA mods as well. As it is I consider my Splinter a backup for the Splinter Z and my Milaana and my Zion backups for those.
I haven't fired up the Zion in a while, maybe this weekend. The Z and the Splinter are my main battery vapes these days...
 
cybrguy,
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Well, just don't go over 50W if you have a single cell mod, unless you are using 30A CDR cells... but no one here is using them so... Even with real 20A CDR cells, above 50W is asking for trouble and will kill them pretty fast, mod protection or not.
 

Easywider

Simple is the way
IMO if your not combusting then your not damaging your unit. It’s excessive heat that’s going to cause damage.
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Well, just don't go over 50W if you have a single cell mod, unless you are using 30A CDR cells... but no one here is using them so... Even with real 20A CDR cells, above 50W is asking for trouble and will kill them pretty fast, mod protection or not.

I noted an interesting math problem when trying to size a resistor for my MFLB. Basically I started with 3.6V and needed 1.2V at about 20 amps. Once I got done with the math, the voltage drop resistor would be just over 50W! And the box would drop about 24W. So even though the total watts is high at 74W, the current is still only 20 amps throughout the circuit. Obviously I was setting up a divider network. In your calculations, limiting a CDR to 50W is limiting the current to about 14 amps if the voltage is maintained to 3.6V. For 20A at 50W you would have internal impedance putting out only 2.5V in the cell which is bad news for this reason alone.
 
TommyDee,

Hammahead

Well-Known Member
Ya'll are way above RBT recommended wattage
Yeah, I think Herbie even lowered the max wattage in his dna TC profiles to max at 45W instead of 50W
The TC profiles had wattages of 60/65 Watts for pre heat and after Ryan changed the warranty conditions to exclude usage at more than 50 Watt and with longer than 30-second draws, he adjusted them to 50 Watts. I've used the exact same profile running before and after the changes and found no difference in general performance, it took maybe a second or two longer for the first vapor.

I can see though, how somebody would use higher wattages when using the watt mode. Ryan recommends a minimum of 40 Watts and I'm pretty sure it can go way higher than 50 Watt. But when I use it in Watt mode and go above 40 Watts, I only have a few seconds before there's combustion, so I can't really grasp how people use >50 Watts at all.
 
Hammahead,
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
@Hammahead temperature mode is a regulated mode where you can set the maximum 'punch' when it turns on, but it will turn itself off based on temp. On the other hand, if you source 40 watts constantly, the total amount of energy imparted on your source matter is much greater. I'm learning this with the Launch Box... more power just means 'faster' vaping at the risk of combustion. So a really hot cell can cause combustion if you don't modulate it to maintain a maximum screen temp. With crappy cells, I can keep it on continuously and I wait forever for a little bit of vape.
 

Hammahead

Well-Known Member
I'm learning this with the Launch Box... more power just means 'faster' vaping at the risk of combustion. So a really hot cell can cause combustion if you don't modulate it to maintain a maximum screen temp. With crappy cells, I can keep it on continuously and I wait forever for a little bit of vape.
Been there, the MFLB has really been eating cells which IMO didn't add to its predictability. I use 30 Amp cells in my mod for the Z, replacing them before they are down to 25% and that thing delivers like a mother and doesn'even get that hot using it.
 
Hammahead,

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I tend to replace my batteries when they drop below about 40%. That's about where I start to notice a change in performance.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Regulated circuits tend to have less trouble with energy output from cells. For constant current drivers, as long as the driver remains in regulation, it will deliver the very same output regardless of the cells state. Typically it is insufficient voltage that starts to affect the performance for regulated current drivers.
 
TommyDee,

david8613

Well-Known Member
This might be a dumb sorry I'm still learning this stuff. The milaana is "unregulated" is using a splinter or Z in watts the same thing? Your controlling the heat/power.
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
I'm gonna guess you're right @david8613 only in that I have not found full images of how the Milaana works. Unregulated typically means using a button to modulate the heat to the coil, screen, or heater.
 
TommyDee,

lordtinuviel

Well-Known Member
Got a splinter z v1 (arrived last Thursday) I have a sinuous p80 & loaded arctic fox, can anyone share the settings for wattage and how to configure tcr and cruise? Thanks
 
lordtinuviel,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
This might be a dumb sorry I'm still learning this stuff. The milaana is "unregulated" is using a splinter or Z in watts the same thing? Your controlling the heat/power.

Power level depends on battery level when unregulated. Less electronic protections
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@TommyDee: it's more complex than with the MLFB here. First of all, any Li-Ion cell operating at its CDR will have a shorter service life and will lose performance pretty fast. So we always leave a margin. Keep in mind the CDR will drop as the cell ages and its internal resistance rises, so your computation based on a new cell will need even more headroom to cope for that.

Then in a regulated mod, be it in power or TC mode, there is a DC/DC converter (buck or boost it doesn't matter), even if it's pretty good, it's never 100% efficient (say it's 90% efficient for instance) To keep the output power constant, with the cell voltage going down over time, it will need to draw more and more amps out of it. So the longer you discharge the more you put strain on the cell.

Thirdly, most people tend to use LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q over here, and those are only 18A CDR cells, not true 20A ones, like the 25R or the HE4 for example.

All in one, when you factor in the voltage sag which is pretty big at these load levels, your cell voltage will drop pretty fast to about 3.3V under load (ex: 0.2ohm and 50W max power). It will be outputting close to 17A with these example parameters, so really close to the CDR.

If you want to play with numbers there's a nice drain calculator here >> http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.html?b=LG_18650HG2&mah=3000&c=6.666666666666667
 

lordtinuviel

Well-Known Member
Can anyone help me setting up my sinuous p80 using arctic fox? I’m using the default settings in power and so far good but would like to improve the wattage and also use txt, etc
 
lordtinuviel,

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Can anyone help me setting up my sinuous p80 using arctic fox? I’m using the default settings in power and so far good but would like to improve the wattage and also use txt, etc
How much watts did u use so far? Try bumping it up to 50W max
TC mode not necessary
 
GoldenBud,
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