Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
Thanks! My mod is a DNAc mod, albeit not the highest end one in the world, but should be better than a cheap entry level mod. I will try those settings tonight.
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
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Thanks! My mod is a DNAc mod, albeit not the highest end one in the world, but should be better than a cheap entry level mod. I will try those settings tonight.
MasterChief
Well-Known Member
Which mod do you have?
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
HCigar VT75c
TiSteamo
VAPEnsiero... sull'ali dorate...
This is a flute that has to be played !!!
Playing the flute I get big clouds…
Question: today I extracted the mouthpiece to check the condition of the herb and I noticed that a thin wisp of smoke was emitted from the herb. Is it possible that there was combustion?
Moreover, could it not damage the base of the chamber, since there are no protective net-screens?
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bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
That's good news. And you're using the Splinter Z DNAc ecigprofile from this page yeah?
https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/
From there all I have to do on my VT75D is set the resistance to .4 and follow Herbie's instructions to extend the puff timer to twenty seconds.
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
I think mine is set to 20s but I’ll need to double check. Do you feel you need the full 20s to get the heater to the right temp?
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Twenty is just safely enough out. Ten is unworkable for me. Not to say I don't take hits under ten seconds, just that it's short of the range I want.
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
Okay so I think I’m starting to get the Z dialed in. I ended up setting my ohms to .39, temp at 380, watts at 50. With those settings, and the warm material file loaded, I’m getting consistent mid level vapor and the vapor is warm but not hot (the XL8R did get nice and toasty). The ABV is very even and looked the exact color I want. I was doing a rotation of the stem after each hit as I saw someone here mention that helped them reduce hot spotting.
A huge thank you to everyone who has helped me with this. I’m sure I have more to learn but after this session I’m feeling good about having at least a base level of performance I can always go back to.
And I also want to give a shout out to Scott at @VGOODIEZ. I emailed him with my issues earlier this morning and he was extremely responsive and even offered to test the unit for me to see if it was faulty. I’ve ordered a Glass Charlie vapcap cooling stem from VG before and was impressed with the service then as well. They are one of my favorite vendors.
A huge thank you to everyone who has helped me with this. I’m sure I have more to learn but after this session I’m feeling good about having at least a base level of performance I can always go back to.
And I also want to give a shout out to Scott at @VGOODIEZ. I emailed him with my issues earlier this morning and he was extremely responsive and even offered to test the unit for me to see if it was faulty. I’ve ordered a Glass Charlie vapcap cooling stem from VG before and was impressed with the service then as well. They are one of my favorite vendors.
jbm
Well-Known Member
Seconded. Scott has been incredibly patient and helpful with me in getting set up with a custom Z. I’ll be buying more from him in future.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
That's good. I noticed my Splinter Z is set to 55W. Maybe that's from an earlier Herbie ecigprofile.
The Z is a bit slower to warm up than a V1 or V2. Keeping that in mind helps me get the most out of it. Sometimes I'll switch to wattage for one or two five second preheats just to get it going.
Experiment with nudging the unlocked resistance higher and using lower temps. I find that helps with denser vapor.
You might consider that VT75D too if the Z is making short work of your batteries. I don't take mine below 70% because I feel like the performance suffers compared to when it's fully charged.
Hammahead
Well-Known Member
Thank you ever so much again... using this coil material file has improved my SplinterZ-experience so dramatically, it's ridiculous! I use it with the Splinter_Z profile and get massive, tasty clouds pretty much with the first toke, near to no hot spots, all I need to do is to rotate the mouthpiece a bit between tokes. Hammatime!
Talking mouthpiece - notorious all-thumbs me broke my cooling mouthpiece and while waiting for the replacement, I fiddled something together that might suffice for many users:
That's a replacement mouthpiece for a Focus Vape (about 5 Euros), fixed and sealed to the default Splinter mouthpiece by a small silicone ring, made by cutting about 1,5 millimeters of a soft silicone tube. It gets significantly warmer than the Easy Flow mouthpiece but way cooler than with the default mouthpiece.
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Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
Mine was also set to 55 watts but I pulled it down in my attempt to find the right settings for me.
jbm
Well-Known Member
So I just did a couple bowls of mixed CBD and THC at 32-35W in wattage mode. This thing is amazing. Clouds, flavor, such a lovely high. Used the short stem that came with it; it got warm but never hot. Good extraction. This is on a Espion 200w with Red Panda. Thanks everyone for your help.
TiSteamo
VAPEnsiero... sull'ali dorate...
I noticed that there is a small grain behind the "opaque" base of the XL8R, I don't think the glass is cracked but I can't understand it well.
It was already like this before the first use.
Somewhere another user was talking about a cracked glass but I can't find the post, nor am I sure he was talking about the mouthpiece but the glass in the chamber.
Anyway, I hope it's not something to worry about, for now it works well.
It was already like this before the first use.
Somewhere another user was talking about a cracked glass but I can't find the post, nor am I sure he was talking about the mouthpiece but the glass in the chamber.
Anyway, I hope it's not something to worry about, for now it works well.
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jbm
Well-Known Member
I actually bought a King Kooling kit with my Z but I was curious to see how hot the included stems would get. I’ve tried the long Xl8r now and it stays even cooler. Though I did notice that it doesn’t seal as tightly as the included stem.
Are the Xl8rs with thicker glass (“custom”) still being made? I bought the thinner glass kit, I think. Though so far they all work fine.
BlazeDis
Well-Known Member
Hi can someone point me to the Splinter Z profile and new coil material profile please ?
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/
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More questions for the experts while I learn my mod and Escribe. I've been firing in TCR with the Splinter Z profile since I got it (only a couple bowls, getting over a cold) and today I tried messing around with watt mode. I had everything hooked up to my computer and when I would fire the temperature on "device Manager" would just keep climbing if I let it. There doesn't seem to be any sort of temperature max cut off even though I have it set to 450°F under Mod->-Safety->Max Output Temperature. This is all on my Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250C with a Splinter Z V1 Bubinga. I'm going to stay in TCR for now as this freaks me out a bit and I don't know if it's normal.
Something I noticed was that some of the values in Escribe seemed off. What I mean by this is that once I loaded up a profile (Profile 1 -> Load Profile -> SplinterZDNAc.ecigprofile) it only affected the values under that tab and nothing under any of the other tabs (Theme-Safety-Display-Materials-Mod-Research). I looked at the "Hcigar75c.ecig" as guidance and lowered some values. I'll be honest I'm paranoid about messing something up and blowing this thing up in my face. I know, probably irrational thinking but better to play it safe until I'm comfortable with the settings.
One more thing. When I have the Splinter Z on my mod that is when I measure resistance but I should lock it correct? It's not in the pictures below. As the Splinter is used is rises from 0.387ohms to 0.41ohms. My mod will ask if I have changed to a new coil. This should (in my mind) mean that it will less effective overall with the higher resistance i.e. why I hear it brought up to check resistance when cold/ambient.
Anyways here are a few snap shots and combined with the above info I'm hoping for a little feedback.
Thank you to anyone that got this far haha.
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jbm
Well-Known Member
The straight non-cooling stems you mean?
jbm
Well-Known Member
Dc’d?
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