Phase3 Vaporizers

[invertedisdead]

I also just remembered how some vapes put out a more blue colored vapor compared to other vapes that put out a darker white colored vapor.

Maybe its the vape, but I feel like its do with the ceramic material since the vapes that use it are the ones i've got blue tinted vapor from.

I personally feel the blue vapors are more pure flavor.

But idk. Just some thoughts I had and wanted to see if anyone else has input?

It looks like this vape is putting out more white color vapor, but it might just be the lighting?

You can get that thin blue vapor at lower temps, if I set to ~550F that light blue mist comes in spades.
Higher temps will be denser and tend to be more opaque though. I find most of my vapes give that blue vapor at the end of the bowl too when everything is mostly evaporated.

@invertedisdead

About the vapor in the heater after a hit...
I remove just the heater and leave the bowl in for a few reason.
Firstly, it is easier for me to do this
Second, I continue my hit when I remove the heater to clear the bowl so no vapor ever enters a vape
third, i find it keeps a bit more flavor for the 2nd hit as I have totally cooled the herb down when clearing the bong.
That's just the way I do it! LOL!

Yeah it's always better to remove the heater between draws, but I guess I get distracted when the camera is rolling or sometimes the bowl will get bound up. I'm thinking that cutting part of the joint off will go a long way to reducing the bowl binding; what I think happens is a nice sized load can end up touching the joint and after a number of loads it can get just a little sticky, and with the big ISO shortage my gear isn't getting cleaned quite as frequently, though I did clean everything up sparkly new for today!
Another theory is the loose fitment of the coil on this prototype is "pulling" on the joint and lodging it in at a slight angle as its sitting on the bowl and then when you go to give it a quarter turn to remove it, the handle is twisting torsionally from the loose coil fitment and not helping it pull either. Those are my thoughts, I do think slicing off half the heater will go a long way there. In the meantime a quick swab of the heater joint with an ISO dipped Q tip has done the trick. That's why I'll probably do one more prototype just to test those couple changes that have been mentioned, and then this thing will be done

 

[lazylathe]

@invertedisdead

Try boiling water rinse and then heat up vinegar in the microwave and add. Swirl around and add a bit of bicarbonate of soda for foaming cleaning action!
Rinse clean and it is sparkly!

 

[invertedisdead]

Quick little afternoon sesh while the sun is still out, always makes for the best clouds!

Vaping on some KushWreck mixed with some Fire OG

Hope everyone is having a good day.

 

[nonamekevin]

Quick little afternoon sesh while the sun is still out, always makes for the best clouds!

Vaping on some KushWreck mixed with some Fire OG

Hope everyone is having a good day.

Hell yea homie, stay up!

Any news from recent research sessions?

 

[MileHighHuman]

So, I read boro can handle up to around 950F

I know you said your 1st attempt at this cracked from the coil contracting down.

I read boro has the max temp change of 320F, if any more it'll crack.

If you had slowly cooled down your coil on your first attempt at this, do you think it would have not broke?

 

[GoldenBud]

So, I read boro can handle up to around 950F

I know you said your 1st attempt at this cracked from the coil contracting down.

I read boro has the max temp change of 320F, if any more it'll crack.

If you had slowly cooled down your coil on your first attempt at this, do you think it would have not broke?

where did u read that? It has a boiling temperature of around 800C

 

[MileHighHuman]

where did u read that? It has a boiling temperature of around 800C

To be honest, I saw / read multiple different answers, so I wanted to get FC members input.

Lots of the info was old so, I just went with Wikipedia, which I know isn't reliable at all, but it seemed to provide more info than any of the other websites I read.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass

 

[GoldenBud]

To be honest, I saw / read multiple different answers, so I wanted to get FC members input.

Lots of the info was old so, I just went with Wikipedia, which I know isn't reliable at all, but it seemed to provide more info than any of the other websites I read.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass

ahhh gotcha, it refers to the DELTA of the temperatures! like if you heat it up to 200C then you cool it with some 35C liquid or so, it'll get broken

 

[MileHighHuman]

ahhh gotcha, it refers to the DELTA of the temperatures! like if you heat it up to 200C then you cool it with some 35C liquid or so, it'll get broken

So like if its hot and gets put under super cold water or vise vera?

So why did the 1st attempt at this vape crack?

I know he said from coil contraction.

So, my guess is that he turned off his controller and it cooled down too fast, therefore cracking the boro?

 

[GoldenBud]

So like if its hot and gets put under super cold water or vise vera?

So why did the 1st attempt at this vape crack?

I know he said from coil contraction.

So, my guess is that he turned off his controller and it cooled down too fast, therefore cracking the boro?

No clue why, maybe the glass wasn't too thick, but if it's possible, he should try using Quartz instead.
And yea, if you'll heat an Arizer Solo's stem with a torch, then put in under water it'll get broken. Happend to me.... :/
But if you'll heat the ELEV8R's quartz heater with a torch, and then water, nothing will happen to it.

 

[MileHighHuman]

No clue why, maybe the glass wasn't too thick, but if it's possible, he should try using Quartz instead.

yeah I agree also now. at first I was all in for the glass because of the flavor, but ive thought about it more and think the spheres probably have the most effect on the flavor profile and the quartz would be much safer against cracking.

 

[invertedisdead]

Hell yea homie, stay up!

Any news from recent research sessions?

I was just re-visiting this old study done with the Volcano, interesting how the "marijuana cigarette" compares to lower temp vapor.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DDsIN9iof35pgz_wUUs6bIOaa0xzqBUO/view

So, I read boro can handle up to around 950F

I know you said your 1st attempt at this cracked from the coil contracting down.

I read boro has the max temp change of 320F, if any more it'll crack.

If you had slowly cooled down your coil on your first attempt at this, do you think it would have not broke?

That one cracked from the coil being attached too tight, not from thermal shock.

 

[MileHighHuman]

do you think it would improve performance if you made it longer in length (with more beads) and also used 2 tall coils to cover all the spheres?

just a highdea


I like how small / simple it is currently.

 

[invertedisdead]

do you think it would improve performance if you made it longer in length (with more beads) and also used 2 tall coils to cover all the spheres?

Maybe, that would definitely give you more heated surface area. Whether it increased performance or not, I'd have to try it to say. You could also just use smaller pearls in the same enclosure if you wanted more heated surface area. I assume both would increase draw resistance. A bigger version could be made, here's a prototype extra tall 20mm coil from 710coils.

 

[lazylathe]

Maybe, that would definitely give you more heated surface area. Whether it increased performance or not, I'd have to try it to say. You could also just use smaller pearls in the same enclosure if you wanted more heated surface area. I assume both would increase draw resistance. A bigger version could be made, here's a prototype extra tall 20mm coil from 710coils.

Looking at the pic you posted of the Inverzion Vape, I am wondering if a slight redesign of the bead chamber may help? It seems as if 50% of the beads are around the heater and 50% above the coil.
Could your glass blower move the air inlet to be on top instead of coming out the side where the coil could be to increase the heating of the beads?
Or even in the middle of the top, so the ruby would be in the middle.

I know that after heating up it would heat soak all the beads but the recovery would be a lot faster if more beads were under the direct influence of the heater coils.

Just musing while stuff heats up!

 

[nonamekevin]

Looking at the pic you posted of the Inverzion Vape, I am wondering if a slight redesign of the bead chamber may help? It seems as if 50% of the beads are around the heater and 50% above the coil.
Could your glass blower move the air inlet to be on top instead of coming out the side where the coil could be to increase the heating of the beads?
Or even in the middle of the top, so the ruby would be in the middle.

I know that after heating up it would heat soak all the beads but the recovery would be a lot faster if more beads were under the direct influence of the heater coils.

Just musing while stuff heats up!

From my experience, putting the inlet on top creates a challenge when it comes to how you would attach the heater to the coil.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/m...-all-glass-enail-powered-dry-herb-vape.48410/

I agree with what you're saying about the 50% above the coil though.

 

[invertedisdead]

Looking at the pic you posted of the Inverzion Vape, I am wondering if a slight redesign of the bead chamber may help? It seems as if 50% of the beads are around the heater and 50% above the coil.
Could your glass blower move the air inlet to be on top instead of coming out the side where the coil could be to increase the heating of the beads?
Or even in the middle of the top, so the ruby would be in the middle.

I know that after heating up it would heat soak all the beads but the recovery would be a lot faster if more beads were under the direct influence of the heater coils.

Just musing while stuff heats up!

The coil is supposed to sit right under the handle/air inlet and in the middle of the pearls, it's just the loose coil fitment from the 20mm coil on a 19mm OD glass causing the coil to sag in the photo. Lately I've been spinning the coil clip a half turn; that pulls tension and makes a more snug connection on the coil and moves it closer to the handle, but I took that photo with a big old ipad while the vape was hot which was a little tricky and the coil must have sagged down again.

Keep in mind a lot of those beads above the coil at the top are directly touching the glass for conduction heating, and also absorbing radiant heat emitted from the glass oven housing itself and the sapphires below. That was one of the key reasons I chose sapphire for the oven core, its extremely inert with a neutral flavor profile but it conducts heat better than stainless steel or titanium, which helps equalize the temperature around the hot zone.

 

[invertedisdead]

Happy 4/20!

IT'S WOOORKING!

 

[lazylathe]

Happy 4/20!

IT'S WOOORKING!

Happy 420!!!!
That was an insane rip!! Huge bong as well...LMAO!!
Sweet dreads as well!

Best keep that bad boy on and ripping all day!


EDIT:
I was also thinking about the coil dropping.
How about a cool wire wrap to hold it in place along the air inlet?
Some awesome weaving designs out there and with aluminum, brass and copper wire it could be very cool!

 

[nonamekevin]

Happy 4/20!

IT'S WOOORKING!

Hell yea! Happy 420 homie!

 

[invertedisdead]

Happy 420!!!!
That was an insane rip!! Huge bong as well...LMAO!!
Sweet dreads as well!

Best keep that bad boy on and ripping all day!


EDIT:
I was also thinking about the coil dropping.
How about a cool wire wrap to hold it in place along the air inlet?
Some awesome weaving designs out there and with aluminum, brass and copper wire it could be very cool!

Cheers bredren!!

Hope you had a very chill day as well my friend
You already know the MaxVapor controller was pumping non stop yesterday, and the Inverzion Vaporizer saw a whole lot of air time!

I only switched it out a few times to fire up my banger and sapphire insert; I pressed out a little cuvee of Kandy Kush and Wet Paint on the 6 ton Dabpress into some nice "L'Orange Kush" rosin

Yeah every once in a while I pull out the old American Helix beaker! It's a pretty large tube for vaporizing but kinda fun sometimes I've got all the holes covered for no helix though lol.

That could be a neat idea about the wrapping, I think I've seen some of the designs you are talking about when I was looking for screen suppliers. The coil should grip the housing a lot better on the proper 20mm part to reduce or eliminate the coil sag, I don't think my earlier 20mm prototype had that issue, but obviously it broke from being on too tight.... so it's a Goldie Locks thing
Cool idea, @lazylathe that could definitely add some unique flair!

Hell yea! Happy 420 homie!

Here's a little blurb I found interesting.

Does metallic cutlery really affect perception of food taste?

We put this to Professor Mark Miadovnich, from University College London...

Mark: - I've got some cereal here and I'm eating it with a silver spoon. I wasn't born with a silver spoon in my mouth, but I've since acquired some. There is a slight taste from the silver, as I expected because we actually did some experiments, making spoons of different materials- gold, silver, tin, copper, zinc, and stainless steel of course. We did blind taste tests with just the spoon alone and found that people are very sensitive to the different tastes of different metals. In fact, they can distinguish between them very clearly. They find them to be, to a greater or lesser extent, bitter, metallic, unpleasant is another adjective people use for some of these metallic tastes. And that, we found out in the end was due to something called the electrode potential of the metal. So its ability to react in the mouth and produce ions of a particular type - so in the case of a copper spoon, copper ions, and in the case of silver, silver ions. So, the least reactive metals are the ones we expect to taste least, and that's broadly what we found.
https://www.thenakedscientists.com/...metallic-cutlery-affect-perception-food-taste

 

[MileHighHuman]

Happy late 4/20!!

You had talked about making a custom bowl so that the flower on the outer edges in the bowl get vaped evenly with the rest of the material.

I remember JoJo Monkey showing some chart about how the airflow will vortex when going thru the spheres. In my experience the GS vaped evenly.

Do you think you have enough space / spheres / time for the air to pass thru and create that vortex effect in the airflow that provides a more even extraction?

 

[invertedisdead]

Happy late 4/20!!

You had talked about making a custom bowl so that the flower on the outer edges in the bowl get vaped evenly with the rest of the material.

I remember JoJo Monkey showing some chart about how the airflow will vortex when going thru the spheres. In my experience the GS vaped evenly.

Do you think you have enough space / spheres / time for the air to pass thru and create that vortex effect in the airflow that provides a more even extraction?

When air passes through the open matrix between the spheres it experiences turbulent flow which promote faster heat transfer than laminar flow.

I don't know about it "vortexing" like say, a Helix pipe, which is using the venturi effect. I'm definitely not an expert on fluid dynamics, which is a shame - because you could build a pretty amazing vaporizer utilizing CFD. At least, theoretically. I saw Vape Engineering playing with the tech for their 510 design, cool stuff. I think the Dynavap team play with CFD a lot for their new models.

Here's a photo from a few months ago when I was experimenting, it's pretty even, it's just the outer lip that sits outside the heat zone. The inner diameter of the end of a tapered glass joint is only ~12mm which is why that's happening- The screen is 3/4"

The Glass Symphony had a 40mm long joint which is almost twice the length as the 19/22 - possibly that helped promote more mixing? Were JoJo's bowls off the shelf parts or custom made? I thought most of the later ones were custom built. The issue here is just that the bowls screen is a bit wider than the end of the heater, that's why I'm likely going to try cutting the joint in half. That should allow even more herb capacity, if wanted, as well as eliminate the small outer ring. Otherwise It's pretty much dialed in and done, although I know you really want it to be bigger. But then a custom coil would be needed for sure.

 

[MileHighHuman]

When air passes through the open matrix between the spheres it experiences turbulent flow which promote faster heat transfer than laminar flow.

I don't know about it "vortexing" like say, a Helix pipe, which is using the venturi effect. I'm definitely not an expert on fluid dynamics, which is a shame - because you could build a pretty amazing vaporizer utilizing CFD. At least, theoretically. I saw Vape Engineering playing with the tech for their 510 design, cool stuff. I think the Dynavap team play with CFD a lot for their new models.

Here's a photo from a few months ago when I was experimenting, it's pretty even, it's just the outer lip that sits outside the heat zone. The inner diameter of the end of a tapered glass joint is only ~12mm which is why that's happening- The screen is 3/4"

The Glass Symphony had a 40mm long joint which is almost twice the length as the 19/22 - possibly that helped promote more mixing? Were JoJo's bowls off the shelf parts or custom made? I thought most of the later ones were custom built. The issue here is just that the bowls screen is a bit wider than the end of the heater, that's why I'm likely going to try cutting the joint in half. That should allow even more herb capacity, if wanted, as well as eliminate the small outer ring. Otherwise It's pretty much dialed in and done, although I know you really want it to be bigger. But then a custom coil would be needed for sure.

Tuburlent flow! Thx for the info/correction.

Maybe not, bu ti think the Sublimator said their atomizer created a vortex effect (along with gasification)

Anyways thats not important haha.

I really like the size of this. One of the only reasons I sold my GS was due to the huge size. Im not sure about the bowls, but I I feel like the stadium and definitely glass bowls were custom. Im not sure about the funnel bowl?

im also surprised that more spheres in the joint wouldn't help. My G43 joint defiantly held heat without any spheres in the frosted area of the joint.

I do want to keep it the current size. Its nice like that, but im also all about getting it to extract to the best it possibly can.

I think thats a good idea to help even out the vaporization for the outer edges of the bowl, but if so that would eliminate having any spheres in the frost joint area. I know you said you felt it didn't help, but like said im just surprised since I feel the joint would be able to hold enough heat. Especially if using that 8 wrap coil.

Some of my suggestions might be good, others may not. Just throwing my thoughts out there.



edit: I ran across some ceramic screens. I know stirring would be more difficult, and finer grinded herb might fall thru and get wasted, plus they'd fall out after dumping the vaped herb every time, so lots of cons, but im curious if they'd improve the flavor and maybe also get the flower closer to the heater if you used 2 or 3?

 

[Easywider]

I just finished catching up on all 199 posts of this thread!
This looks awesome @invertedisdead, I'm certainly interested. I've been using a DIY Elev8r style set up recently and I've been shocked by how smooth the vapor has been. A 20mm coil set up sounds fantastic. Cover your eyes purists, I think It would be great to be able to use this with a torch as well