Discussion in 'DIY' started by Accept, Sep 25, 2017.
Temper the wire with a torch before you wrap it. It’ll stay in place with almost no springback.
Hadn't seen pics when replying - that's a leve3 inception coil! Didn't know anyone else was making these.
How/when did you come up with it? Is that the new version of the Immortalizer?
In the newest coils, extending the third level upward to create a loading stage that prevents top spatter.
And if I’m feeling rowdy
24ga Kanthal A1
Don’t over think it.
It’s a full contact inception, no gaps. 36ga Kanthal wrap over 28ga 420SS
It’s an old Prometey RTA from Titanium Mods.
I started designing and building Genesis attys 2007
VV power regulation for mods in 2008
Surprisingly, these coils work in TC, if you're into that. Have you come across anyone else who is making these? Seen standard level 2s, but never a level 3 or beyond.
Stove top coils work well.
Sorry for the delays but I’m making these coils as I’m posting.
Big fan of Bozhko's work - have authentic Achilles and Achilles dual. A little too cramped for these coils.
Meant inception coils specifically.
Just a simple knot under the stove-top?
First time I made an inception coil was ~2010. I was screwing around with the first ceramic wicks I designed. Needed a inside/outside tube heater element.
That’s how you start the wrap. The wire will double back over the first wrap,slip out and then you can start wrapping on top of the previous wrap. You need a bench coil jig to make them fast.
Something like this? How did you use the wicks?
Tempering some dual-core clapton wire that was too springy worked great, thanks!
This discussion has largely moved to this thread, which you might also find interesting.
i always wanted access to different shapes of ceramics. so many ideas of how to build concentrate heaters/wicks with them. this pic... i did this once, but with the thick readyXwick instead of a porous sintered wick. worked well, but RXW gunks quick. also porous and fibrous ceramic make me nervous so i switched to wickless builds only.
This is W9Tech's new wick. Still don't know what to do with this. Tried it with sappy concentrate and it spattered all over the deck. Next time there's ample solid concentrate, maybe try something else.
They were for a ecig design scubabatdan came up with. Didn’t really work.
Cool. The wire comes work hardened from the drawing process. Stress relieving it before a complex build helps a lot. Just don’t relieve it before making any kind of clapton. The hardness help the core wires from twisting while applying the wrap wires.
How do you guys clean your coils and how often? is a ultrasonic cleaner needed or is a ISO soak enough?
I built my first tiny coils from 316L fused staggered clapton. The taste from the first dab is really great and flavorful but then it's getting nasty fast. When I dry burn the unvaped oil out of the coil, the whole house is smelling like burnt roadkill ...
Congratulations on your first coils! An ISO soak gets rid of the gunk. An ultrasonic cleaner works better, and you can also use an oxide remover solution to get rid of any oxidation. Recommend building more coils - it gets easier and faster with practice.
as @Accept stated ISO or ethanol work great for soaking coils clean. how long to soak depends on how gunky you let them get. when using an ultrasonic cleaner i would put the coils in a small jar of ISO and put that into the ultrasonic cleaner dish. no water in the dish. only ISO in the jar. and this greatly speeds up soak time. i would always leave overnight anyways after to ensure a good cleaning. then pull them out of the jar one by one, with tweezers, and hold them under scolding hot water from my tap. if the soak was long enough then the water washes anything on the coils and they should look new. the color will never be a bright silver again like when you started working with the wire. if you stay on top of your coils they clean overnight with no issue. if you let them go you may have to repeat the “soak n rinse” a couple of times. but they will come clean.
my ultrasonic cleaner crapped out on me after about two years. it was a $40 model. i find simply soaking effective enough for my needs tho.
i keep 3 or 4 coils in rotation so when im using one the others stay soaking. when it comes time for a new coil they are ready to be rinsed, dried, and installed.
@Vapology how long after the first tasty rip are you observing the degradation of flavor from the coil? how many dabs? you said “getting nasty fast”, but how fast?
you may not want to be dry burning the coils to remove residual oils. at least not if there is a considerable amount left in there...? i dont ever dry burn coils unless there is very little gunk on them. otherwise yeah youre gonna get that nice combustion aroma of death. when this happens the coil needs to be swapped.
i did mention, in the one hitter quitter thread, about dry burning mesh between rips, but that was an experiment. and i was doing it from the first dab on. making sure there is VERY little of anything to actually burn off. if done from the beginning of the clean coils life then dry burning between rips may actually help keep them from gunking as fast. if you do a 1/2g + through a coil and then dry burn youll likely have crusties left in there. do not vape on it after that if you wanna taste it. lol. soak the crustified coil and it will live again!
That's a great idea - fill the rest of the basin with the oxide remover. A quick, two-step cleaning process. After drying overnight, they're placed in a plastic bag and then forgotten because new coils have already been wrapped. Must have a hundred inception coils in that bag.
Also, if you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, gently heating the ISO in a water bath also speeds things up.
I think my coil was just to hot/ red
I started to look at the coil now, not at the display from my evic. I managed to get 4 tasty little microdabs until now ... still counting ... like with everything else in life it's just practice practice practice
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