Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap
- Thread starter mr_cfromcali
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- induction heater
I suggest looking through the previous pages. Most of your points are covered.
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
Oh man I should have asked if you had any purple shells 
Also, how much room is there under the battery holders? I really enjoy my flite but having to remove the front plate to charge it is my only hurdle between this being an A grade device and an A+ grade device
Imagine a carbon fiber bottom panel/cutout where a wireless qi charging coil sits? No need to open the device up unless you wanted to tune your PWM... that sounds like a great solution to me
Also, how much room is there under the battery holders? I really enjoy my flite but having to remove the front plate to charge it is my only hurdle between this being an A grade device and an A+ grade device
Imagine a carbon fiber bottom panel/cutout where a wireless qi charging coil sits? No need to open the device up unless you wanted to tune your PWM... that sounds like a great solution to me
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dynavapmuser
Member
Thanks, I have been lurking for a few weeks and reading up in this thread and around the internet. I've just been waiting to find / buy a portable IH for the last few months and now it's almost time and I'm hoping I get it right
mecrobs
Member
Can't go wrong with any of the Fluxers, you're in the right place! The only bad thing about my Flite is how much weed it makes me go through lolThanks, I have been lurking for a few weeks and reading up in this thread and around the internet. I've just been waiting to find / buy a portable IH for the last few months and now it's almost time and I'm hoping I get it right
Eclipse
Well-Known Member
@mr_cfromcali
I think I like that purple... Any way you would take a pic of a purple Flix next to the purple Flite?
I think I like that purple... Any way you would take a pic of a purple Flix next to the purple Flite?
Oh man I should have asked if you had any purple shells
Well, I've only had the purple cases for a few hours - they arrived today - so they weren't an option when you were in the queue.
Also, how much room is there under the battery holders? I really enjoy my flite but having to remove the front plate to charge it is my only hurdle between this being an A grade device and an A+ grade device
Imagine a carbon fiber bottom panel/cutout where a wireless qi charging coil sits? No need to open the device up unless you wanted to tune your PWM... that sounds like a great solution to me
Thanks for your suggestions. At present there isn't any add'l room under the device, all the vertical space is claimed. I like the idea of adding wireless Qi charging, though - I'll see what I can do w/that. It's an excellent suggestion and one I'll keep in mind for the Flite v2.
BTW, we made a conscious decision to keep the charging port internal, to avoid the possibility that your keys might accidentally create a 10A hotspot in your pocket.
And finally, a reminder that "the perfect is the enemy of the good", and if I held v1 up to perfect USB-C and wireless charging, this wouldn't have seen the light of day until 2026... 
Thanks!
For sure, I was in the same boat and the Flite is my first IH. The investment was worth it and Jeff is amazing. It’s versatile and really covers all bases, can’t go wrong any way you set it up. Good luck!Thanks, I have been lurking for a few weeks and reading up in this thread and around the internet. I've just been waiting to find / buy a portable IH for the last few months and now it's almost time and I'm hoping I get it right
I'll do that when I get a chance, Eclipse. The shades are close enough that you may not be able to see much difference in my photos. The new purple is a little deeper, but the two are close. I was hoping for an even deeper purple, but this still turned out nice.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
I would comment only on the hotter setup. This will take you to the edge of combustion more often. The Default tune lets you heat a second heating after a forced cool-down click with less risk of combustion. This sounds like what you are after in the profile.
16mm is for a 'gentler' heat on the cap->chamber and also fits your profile.
Yes, when mine glitches out like crazy is it almost always with my 2020M's Captive Cap. Very rare with my other cap which is low temp, unless I am not holding it and the Tectonic Dynavap tilts to the side..
lemonSkunkie
Member
Hey guys! Flite #35 owner here. My flite was part of the second batch and only took 7 days in transport before it arrived in Australia.
A little late to write this but have just been giving myself enough time to get a feel for this awesome device.
Not sure if there is much I can add to what has already been said but the Flite IH has turned the vapcap (something i'm new to and wasn't really getting the hang of), into a super easy and hard hitting vape. Haven't really touched my Mighty or Solo II since figuring out how to hit this thing properly with the Flite. I love how it's just a one hitter which is usually all I need.
The guys at fluxer were good at responding to e-mails and helping me choose the correct set-up for my liking, cannot fault it now that i've figured it out.
Cheers guys! love this product and keen to get my hands on a new Flix whenever they drop
A little late to write this but have just been giving myself enough time to get a feel for this awesome device.
Not sure if there is much I can add to what has already been said but the Flite IH has turned the vapcap (something i'm new to and wasn't really getting the hang of), into a super easy and hard hitting vape. Haven't really touched my Mighty or Solo II since figuring out how to hit this thing properly with the Flite. I love how it's just a one hitter which is usually all I need.
The guys at fluxer were good at responding to e-mails and helping me choose the correct set-up for my liking, cannot fault it now that i've figured it out.
Cheers guys! love this product and keen to get my hands on a new Flix whenever they drop
Flavor Vaper
Well-Known Member
Can anyone compare the medium vs thick walls in the 16mm coil of the flix? Wondering how much they’d differ. Looking to maximize flavor, not concerned with clouds or heat-up times. Thanks.
Momor
Well-Known Member
My flite n°44 landed a few days ago. I went with 15mm default coil setting and push button activation, and i only have titanium tips with regular caps.
This is my first IH and I love it. I kept reading it's a game changer and now can confirm.
As it is, i get full extraction with very dark AVB in 2 cycles, taking the VC out at first click. If I go for a third one I can quite easily combust.
Jeff was nice enough to include with my flite a few little silicone discs of different thickness to put at the bottom of the coil in order to make the VC sitting a bit higher in the coil and thus lowering a bit the temperature at the click. I ended up by slicing in half the thinest disc and stuck it in. This way I can get a 3rd click to full extraction and it's perfect for me.
The only downside for me is that with or without the added disc my VC doesn't sit flat/streight in the flite. Is it the case for every flite ?
I didn't count the clicks from full charge to dead but I'm planning on doing it.
I noticed that when the battery depletes, my flite doesn't heat less, i can still get full extraction in 3 clicks even with the batteries near dead, but it takes a bit more time to heat to the click.
Aesthetically, it's very nice. It also feels very solid. It matches quite well my BCG.
I read on the manual that there is a way to change LEDs brightness but I don't see where on the circuit board ?
This is my first IH and I love it. I kept reading it's a game changer and now can confirm.
As it is, i get full extraction with very dark AVB in 2 cycles, taking the VC out at first click. If I go for a third one I can quite easily combust.
Jeff was nice enough to include with my flite a few little silicone discs of different thickness to put at the bottom of the coil in order to make the VC sitting a bit higher in the coil and thus lowering a bit the temperature at the click. I ended up by slicing in half the thinest disc and stuck it in. This way I can get a 3rd click to full extraction and it's perfect for me.
The only downside for me is that with or without the added disc my VC doesn't sit flat/streight in the flite. Is it the case for every flite ?
I didn't count the clicks from full charge to dead but I'm planning on doing it.
I noticed that when the battery depletes, my flite doesn't heat less, i can still get full extraction in 3 clicks even with the batteries near dead, but it takes a bit more time to heat to the click.
Aesthetically, it's very nice. It also feels very solid. It matches quite well my BCG.
I read on the manual that there is a way to change LEDs brightness but I don't see where on the circuit board ?
fak
The Dude
New Flite case colors!
The new cases are here. The next batch of Flite will add raw aluminum and purple as case colors. I stuck some pics behind a pair of spoiler tags to save you bandwidth, but please check 'em out and let me know what you think:
These will be available beginning in the next batch.
Cheers,
Loving the raw aluminum! It does look a bit scuffed/scratchy, I thought I might go raw aluminum to match my silver BCG and simrell, will they all appear similar to the one in this photo? Thanks!
dynavapmuser
Member
Raw metals will all scratch easily (unless it has an epoxy or coating over top of it) so I would expect that if it arrives with a pristine brushed aluminum surface it would start to show "scratches" like that fairly quickly being pulled in and out of a pants pocket with keys in there, etc...
Hi all,
A heads-up that I expect to post more heaters for sale in my store on Friday. These will be a mix of Flix v1, Flix v2, and Flite. I'll have more info tomorrow as I finalize the details. I do not expect to have a Flix v2 video or other supporting materials ready before I start selling these, but I posted about the differences in Flix v2 and discussed them with you recently, so please see that post for general info.
Regarding the PWM add-on module, I plan on offering a choice of either top or side mounting positions, and also a choice of either the "B" knob or the "F" knob, which were the two people seemed to like.
I'll review the pricing info tomorrow - there's an upgrade path if you have a v1 and want v2, etc. I'll also discuss the Flix v1 vs v2 differences, discuss the Flix v1 I'll be selling, etc.
I'm aware that I can overwhelm myself if I put too much up for sale at once, so we'll see if I can find the right balance here.
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Yes, the LED trim pot is tucked away on the bottom board, as that was the only place I could find room for it. It's connected by several circuit traces and things are kinda tight in this part of the board, so trust me when I say that this was the best I could do, location-wise
The trim pot's sweep is less than a full turn. Turning the adjuster to the right (clockwise) should dim the LEDs, if I recall correctly, and at the max setting they should turn off. You may also be able to make them brighter by turning the LED the other way, IIRC.
It is easier to adjust if you remove the heater from the case, but you can access it through the narrow gap between the corner of the case and the PWM control panel. You will need a tiny jeweler's screwdriver, such as the type used to tighten eye-glasses. Although adjuster has a Phillips head ( + ), it is very shallow, so this type is easier to adjust with a small flat blade screw driver ( – ):
Yes, this is true. It is raw and will show all scratches unless you cover it in clear coat or some other protective finish. Or, as they say in the antique biz, "it will show the patina of use."
BTW, since it is raw aluminum you can use rubbing compound and a polishing wheel to buff the finish to an eye-popping shine, if that's your thing. I did this with a raw Flix case some months ago to see how it would look, and the result was VERY FUCKING SHINY, lol. You'll leave kief fingerprints all over it if you do this. Also, don't stare into the polished aluminum surface if you're high, unless you don't have anything to do for a bit.
OK, some comparison pics for you, featuring the three purples I have, Flux Deluxe, Flix, and Flite:
Devices reversed, but the same (crappy) flourescent light source:
FWIW, I was hoping the new Flite cases would achieve a shade of purple like the color on the Flux Deluxe case above. They didn't quite get there, but it is a deeper purple than the shade they made for the Flix.
I hope that helps.
OK, I still have some heaters to complete for Flite batch 3.5, a couple of stragglers from Flite batch #3 (they were waiting for the new cases to get here), and some repairs to finish. I also have a few Flix waiting for v2 upgrades, and I am waiting on new glass inserts to complete those (they're due tomorrow).
Thanks again for sharing pics fo your new heaters, and thank you to existing owners for helping the newer folks when I've been too busy to reply quickly.
OK, off to do some stuff. Cheers!
A heads-up that I expect to post more heaters for sale in my store on Friday. These will be a mix of Flix v1, Flix v2, and Flite. I'll have more info tomorrow as I finalize the details. I do not expect to have a Flix v2 video or other supporting materials ready before I start selling these, but I posted about the differences in Flix v2 and discussed them with you recently, so please see that post for general info.
Regarding the PWM add-on module, I plan on offering a choice of either top or side mounting positions, and also a choice of either the "B" knob or the "F" knob, which were the two people seemed to like.
I'll review the pricing info tomorrow - there's an upgrade path if you have a v1 and want v2, etc. I'll also discuss the Flix v1 vs v2 differences, discuss the Flix v1 I'll be selling, etc.
I'm aware that I can overwhelm myself if I put too much up for sale at once, so we'll see if I can find the right balance here.
--------
Yes, the LED trim pot is tucked away on the bottom board, as that was the only place I could find room for it. It's connected by several circuit traces and things are kinda tight in this part of the board, so trust me when I say that this was the best I could do, location-wise
The trim pot's sweep is less than a full turn. Turning the adjuster to the right (clockwise) should dim the LEDs, if I recall correctly, and at the max setting they should turn off. You may also be able to make them brighter by turning the LED the other way, IIRC.
It is easier to adjust if you remove the heater from the case, but you can access it through the narrow gap between the corner of the case and the PWM control panel. You will need a tiny jeweler's screwdriver, such as the type used to tighten eye-glasses. Although adjuster has a Phillips head ( + ), it is very shallow, so this type is easier to adjust with a small flat blade screw driver ( – ):
Yes, this is true. It is raw and will show all scratches unless you cover it in clear coat or some other protective finish. Or, as they say in the antique biz, "it will show the patina of use."
BTW, since it is raw aluminum you can use rubbing compound and a polishing wheel to buff the finish to an eye-popping shine, if that's your thing. I did this with a raw Flix case some months ago to see how it would look, and the result was VERY FUCKING SHINY, lol. You'll leave kief fingerprints all over it if you do this. Also, don't stare into the polished aluminum surface if you're high, unless you don't have anything to do for a bit.
OK, some comparison pics for you, featuring the three purples I have, Flux Deluxe, Flix, and Flite:
Devices reversed, but the same (crappy) flourescent light source:
FWIW, I was hoping the new Flite cases would achieve a shade of purple like the color on the Flux Deluxe case above. They didn't quite get there, but it is a deeper purple than the shade they made for the Flix.
I hope that helps.
OK, I still have some heaters to complete for Flite batch 3.5, a couple of stragglers from Flite batch #3 (they were waiting for the new cases to get here), and some repairs to finish. I also have a few Flix waiting for v2 upgrades, and I am waiting on new glass inserts to complete those (they're due tomorrow).
Thanks again for sharing pics fo your new heaters, and thank you to existing owners for helping the newer folks when I've been too busy to reply quickly.
OK, off to do some stuff. Cheers!
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Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
@mr_cfromcali Does the LED do a little dance to let me know when my battery has died? Im counting clicks and would like to make sure that I'm not going to push the cells too far.
The BMS has a solid low voltage cutoff, so honestly you can run it until it dies if you want to, you won't harm the cells. But in answer to your question, the LEDs will begin to dim near the very end of the batteries charge, probably 3-5 heating cycles before they run out. And as someone else mentioned, you will also notice that the heating time increases as the batteries deplete and sag.
FWIW, someone else upthread suggested this 12.6V@2A charger for rapid charging - it has the correct 2.1mm x 5.5mm, center positive tip, so it is plug-and-play: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8DMSZ8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_4QX1SSKCKX4SPA1E4625?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I picked one up to try and like it so far - it recharges the Keeppower cells from dead to full in just over 40 minutes. I'll see if I can find a bulk source for these, they would be nice to offer as an option.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
Cooling, ventilation.
I added them for these reasons, as @RustyOldNail says. I added them fairly early in the FD development process, as vent holes sounded like a good idea for a 10A induction heater in a metal box that also holds 3x 18650 cells. I carried them over to the Flix and the Flite as options, for the folks that like the look and/or have one and want consistent aesthetics on another Fluxer they also own.
