Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Does the 16mm coil with thick glass give bigger hits than the standard 16mm due to increased heating time?

Hi, and thanks for the question. Yes, that's the idea behind it, at any rate. The thicker walled insert causes the heater to heat less efficiently as the work piece is held equidistant from the walls of the coil. Additionally, the thicker borosilicate material also very slightly blocks and weakens the magnetic field.

The positive effect of this is the vapcap heats more slowly, which produces better flavor with very low risk of combustion.

The trade-off is less efficient extraction over the course of the whole bowl. This insert produces some particularly good extraction on hits 1-3, but extraction falls off as you get deeper into the bowl, so you will need to leave it in longer (e.g., count of two) to heat more completely on bowl hits 4+.

FWIW, the choices I have now are probably going to grow by another option or two in the next few weeks. I'm currently testing a new wire and insert combo, and hope to share something about it shortly. Sorry to be cryptic, but I expect to have more to say on this topic soon.
 
Last edited:

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
@mr_cfromcali you can request 'machine after anodize' on the drawing. I get panels that way. I take it your case supplier is doing the machining? Domestic source?

...we should talk -

Sure - please send me a PM if you'd like, I'd be happy to benefit from your experience. My supplier is doing the cases for me, but they are in Asia and I was given the impression that 'machining before anodization' was my only option. But I will press for more info on this w/my supplier - thanks for the tip!
 
mr_cfromcali,

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Would it be possible to have the external light be used ONLY as a battery meter?

Funny you should ask that, @M3 Element, as I have been working on that and have an update: that capability will be be coming soon, at least for the green "power on" LED. The red side is going to continue to illumunate when the heater activates, at least for the time being.

Current Flux Deluxe PCBs without battery meters have the option of disabling the green "power on" LED via a small DIP switch on the circuit board. I've mentioned this once or twice in this thread, but I haven't drawn a lot of attention to as it's a relatively minor feature and it isn't available on all versions of the circuit, only those w/o the battery meter. I wanted to offer this with the battery meter, too, but I couldn't figure out how to toggle the power LED while still permitting the battery meter to function. :hmm:

A few weeks ago, out of the blue, I stumbled on the right solution to make this work with the battery meter version. :clap:

I revised the PCB to include the new switch, and the positions of both switches are shown below. When the new PCB is tested and ready to roll out, I'll mount a switch in one location or the other, depending on the version:

FD-PCB-with-gren-LED-switch-titled.png


This will be coming soon, but it isn't ready yet! But the first batch of 50 did arrive today, so if they test out, I can begin to use them.

Additionally, I have some PCBs that are already populated with components, and I need to work through those before I can afford to completely switch to the new ones. This feature is coming very soon, though, so if you order a FD with a battery meter and this is a must-have feature for you, let me know when it's time to confirm your order and I'll make sure you get the right PCB.

I'll make a more formal announcement when the feature is tested and ready to debut. Thanks again for a very well-timed question. :tup:

Cheers,
:leaf:

Updated for clarity.
 
Last edited:

M3 Element

Well-Known Member
Funny you should ask that, @M3 Element, as I have been working on that and have an update: that capability will be be coming soon, at least for the green "power on" LED. The red side is going to continue to illumunate when the heater activates, at least for the time being.

Current Flux Deluxe PCBs without battery meters have the option of disabling the green "power on" LED via a small DIP switch on the circuit board. I've mentioned this once or twice in this thread, but I haven't drawn a lot of attention to as it's a relatively minor feature and it isn't available on all versions of the circuit, only those w/o the battery meter. I wanted to offer this with the battery meter, too, but I couldn't figure out how to toggle the power LED while still permitting the battery meter to function. :hmm:

A few weeks ago, out of the blue, I stumbled on the right solution to make this work with the battery meter version. :clap:

I revised the PCB to include the new switch, and the positions of both switches are shown below. When the new PCB is tested and ready to roll out, I'll mount a switch in one location or the other, depending on the version:

FD-PCB-with-gren-LED-switch-titled.png


This will be coming soon, but it isn't ready yet! But the first batch of 50 did arrive today, so if they test out, I can begin to use them.

Additionally, I have some PCBs that are already populated with components, and I need to work through those before I can afford to completely switch to the new ones. This feature is coming very soon, though, so if you order a FD with a battery meter and this is a must-have feature for you, let me know when it's time to confirm your order and I'll make sure you get the right PCB.

I'll make a more formal announcement when the feature is tested and ready to debut. Thanks again for a very well-timed question. :tup:

Cheers,
:leaf:

Updated for clarity.
That would be amazing. Ideally I would like it so the red side doesn't even illuminate when the heater is activated and only the under glass LED engages (for me this would be blue) but if I needed to check the battery I would still have the external green/red lights as indicators. Unfortunately/fortunately I didn't ask to be put on to the waitlist until October 1st so I definitely have a while to wait but I guess the upside is this could be figured out?
 

AcidFlashbang

Well-Known Member
That would be amazing. Ideally I would like it so the red side doesn't even illuminate when the heater is activated and only the under glass LED engages (for me this would be blue) but if I needed to check the battery I would still have the external green/red lights as indicators. Unfortunately/fortunately I didn't ask to be put on to the waitlist until October 1st so I definitely have a while to wait but I guess the upside is this could be figured out?
You could always paint over the light's dome save for a small sliver that still allows you to see the LED color
 
AcidFlashbang,

endof3d

Cognitive Dissonance D4 ++++
That would be amazing. Ideally I would like it so the red side doesn't even illuminate when the heater is activated and only the under glass LED engages (for me this would be blue) but if I needed to check the battery I would still have the external green/red lights as indicators. Unfortunately/fortunately I didn't ask to be put on to the waitlist until October 1st so I definitely have a while to wait but I guess the upside is this could be figured out?

This is exactly the configuration I thought would be ideal for my FD. Any colour LED light under glass would be perfect. Big thanks for the continued innovations and updates Mr_C.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
That would be amazing. Ideally I would like it so the red side doesn't even illuminate when the heater is activated and only the under glass LED engages (for me this would be blue) but if I needed to check the battery I would still have the external green/red lights as indicators. Unfortunately/fortunately I didn't ask to be put on to the waitlist until October 1st so I definitely have a while to wait but I guess the upside is this could be figured out?

FWIW, I just looked, and at first glance this doesn't appear to be too hard to pull off. There's a junction in the circuit that could be exploited to facilitate this, and it's even near a location on the PCB where I could locate a DIP switch. I'm not going to rush to add this immediately - sorry - but I'll keep this in mind the next time I have a reason to make other changes. :tup:

Cheers,
:leaf:
 

M3 Element

Well-Known Member
FWIW, I just looked, and at first glance this doesn't appear to be too hard to pull off. There's a junction in the circuit that could be exploited to facilitate this, and it's even near a location on the PCB where I could locate a DIP switch. I'm not going to rush to add this immediately - sorry - but I'll keep this in mind the next time I have a reason to make other changes. :tup:

Cheers,
:leaf:
Welp I have my final spec figured out for when my time comes! :rockon:
 

rnartian

Earthling flora is... fascinating.
I've looked at a lot of the current induction heaters on here and on various other vapor-oriented websites, and I gotta say that I'm in love with this design. It's simple and clean, not too loud but also not lacking in features (from what I see, this gives a lot more control over exactly how you want your heater to function), and seems like it would be lighter than some of the other portable offerings. What sold me is that you offer a wood option for your cases. The only other wooden IH I've seen is slightly too large/over the top for me.

Sad I joined the waitlist only a few days ago, but I'll be checking back impatiently often :rockon:
 

Moses Baca

Colorado State Reformatory #8755
I love my red FD but I would have gone for the oiled cherry if it was an option when I got mine. I guess that's the price I have to pay for not waiting longer to sign up.

;)

It's well worth the wait, we use ours daily. I'm always looking around at the new stuff but I haven't found anything that fits our needs better.
 

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
I love the esthetic of wood - but for my uses, I couldn’t be happier with my FD: durability, portability, function, performance - adds up to a dependable unit that’s a pleasure to own and use.

For a larger, less mobile unit, like the MF, I think wood could work well with the original metal inspiration
 

boombastik

Well-Known Member
After two months the flux is my constant companion! I started off with a 15mm and then switched to a 16mm with thick glass. I’m actually thinking about switching back to 15 but it’s hard to part with this wonderful device for any amount of time. Perhaps once a find a lighter I'll consider it :lol:

Im having a hard time choosing coil size. I originally thought I would choose 15mm. Then Ive heard some like the 16mm better with the dynavap im choosing OmniVap XL Titanium. However, looking at the faq resources page the 17mm Seems interesting because "It heats less aggressively than the regular 16mm coil, but the larger size provides excellent heat penetration"

I want to get on the waiting list but I got no idea what coil size to go with :doh:

I would also strongly recommend investing in the external switch. I don’t find myself ever really leaving the house with my vapes, not getting that feature was a missed opportunity.

Ive thought about the external on/ off switch but Ive heard its really easy to move if your taking it on trips it can accidentally switch itself on/ off.

External on off switch is a necessity to me and needs a good push to throw.
One could always push a grommet over the toggle to stop it from moving.
Also consider the battery meter.


So the external on off switch is pretty hard to push on or off? I know its easy access, but I will be traveling with it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
boombastik,
  • Like
Reactions: Summer

lookhigh

FC member
So the external on off switch is pretty hard to push on or off? I know its easy access, but I will be traveling with it.
Never switched on when in my jacket pocket. As long as there is no metal parts ie keys etc. with it i would not worry about leaving it on.
 
lookhigh,

boombastik

Well-Known Member
Never switched on when in my jacket pocket. As long as there is no metal parts ie keys etc. with it i would not worry about leaving it on.

Opposite. i’m so glad i switched to the external switch!

So at first I thought I’d start off with 15mm because it’s in the middle but what’s your opinion on 16mm or 17mm? I’m going to use omnivap xl titanium. Seems like the 17mm is pretty efficient from the website ABV pics. 6-7sec heat time not that bad
 
boombastik,

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Im having a hard time choosing coil size. I originally thought I would choose 15mm. Then Ive heard some like the 16mm better with the dynavap im choosing OmniVap XL Titanium. However, looking at the faq resources page the 17mm Seems interesting because "It heats less aggressively than the regular 16mm coil, but the larger size provides excellent heat penetration"

I want to get on the waiting list but I got no idea what coil size to go with :doh:

You don't have to decide "for reals" until I am actually about to build your heater. All of the info I collect initially is useful and helps me plan, but it isn't intended to lock you into one set of choices. The info you submit just before I build your heater - THAT's the one that determines what you actually get.

All of the coil sizes work, by the way. Each simply has a different emphasis: the smaller diameter ones heat quickly and produce a hot vapor for quick extraction; the larger ones heat more slowly, and generally produce a cooler vapor. The middle 15mm and 16mm sizes do a bit of both, with the 15mm being "medium-hot", while 16mm is "medium-cool".

FWIW, I have been doing some add'l research and trying some new combinations of differently sized inserts and wire gauges, and have learned a few things in the process. My goal is to reduce the current large field of options to two or three very clear choices: a fairly hot one, a versatile middle option, and one with a cooler heating profile and longer heat up time.

I will put together a complete post here and also put the info on my web site once it’s ready. I will be finished soon.
 
Last edited:

boombastik

Well-Known Member
You don't have to decide "for reals" until I am actually about to build your heater. All of the sizes work. The smaller diameter ones heat quickly and produce a hot vapor, the larger ones heat more slowly, and generally produce a cooler vapor. The middle sizes are 15mm and 16mm: 15mm is "medium-hot", while 16mm is "medium-cool".

Ok, cool deal... then I’ll get on the waiting list Thanks
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hi all,

I have a pair of Friday Fluxer Updates for you - a product update first, followed by a business update.

Custom Machined Cases - the first prototypes are in-house

I am making some progress with my customized cases and wanted to share a few photos of the first prototypes.

These arrived yesterday and are the first physical samples. They are pretty close to final and only have two issues to resolve - the hole for the DC port is 2mm too low, and the large heater hole in the lid is missing its chamfer (which I’ve added by hand in the following pics). I have ordered another run of samples that correct these issues, and expect it here in another 10 days or so. If they look good, I should be ready to proceed w/the first order. :rockon:

These are some pictures of the first prototypes. After machining 180+ of these by hand, I appreciate the precision and cleanliness that a proper CNC mill can deliver:

IMG-8811-private.jpg


IMG-8812-private.jpg

I hand-machined the chamfered edge on the above hole to so I could see how I expect the final version to look, though we are still determining if the chamfers will be pre- or post-anodization. The hand-cut glass insert looks a bit crude by comparison, lol.

IMG-8816-private.jpg

This! This is what I have long wanted it to look like! :bowdown:

IMG-8817-private.jpg


:rockon:


Couple of other comments:

As you may have noticed, this case has the external switch. The external switch has proven to be very popular, so I'm going to include it in the first run of 200 machined cases. If there is still a demand for an internal switch - TBD in the future, not here/now! - I'll do a second run of these cases with a different lid.

I will still have the option of making lids for internally switched heaters as I have been doing, but the option will be a bit more expensive if I need to build it from two different cases. Stay tuned for more info.


Fluxer Heaters LLC

Finally, I also met w/my CPA to discuss Fluxer Heaters' future as a business, including my potential tax liability, insurance requirements, business licensing, etc. You know, the "business side" of running a business. Things look good overall, which is the sort of news you want from your CPA, but I will need to make a few changes behind the scenes to keep things on the right course. One change I can share now: Fluxer Heaters is now Fluxer Heaters LLC, a legal entity in California, with a tax ID number, etc. Woot! :tup: :rockon:

Being a formal business entity also means I will need to pay all of the taxes and fees of a formal business entity:

:worms: :rant::goon:

OK, I'm not really too put out by this change, as I have been anticipating it, but it does open a can of worms, and my expenses ARE going to increase as a result of these changes.

This is a notice to my future customers that I expect I will need to increase my prices to cover these new expenses. This cause and effect with regards to product pricing is Business 101, but I want to give folks a heads up that this is coming, and that it isn't being driven by greed. I still have a few business expenses I need to determine so I'm not yet sure where prices will land, but I don't see anyway around this. More to come.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=

That's it for now. I am all caught up on the last batch heaters, apart from a couple of stragglers, so I'll be sending out another batch of Order Confirmation invitations very soon.

Cheers, and have a great wekeend,
:leaf:
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom