I can't believe you ordered, at least, 6 DT V3's and you get so many mods and waterpipes
I currently have an aramada of 14 TC mods and I bought 14 v3 donut kits when they came out, (2 for friends) It's because of asshole donut hoarders like me that poor guys like
@Volteric can't get a single V3 donut right now
don't worry Matt will restock soon....I want a few black V3s and even
moar medium donuts haha
At least a few other guys got the medium donuts to play around with too
@Vape Donkey 650 I love all your setups. Which is the easiest setup to connect to a water pipe. I was thinking hydratube or my 510 nail glass but neither fit properly.
Easiest way? Do you already have a hydratube? If so, the way Steven is connecting the V3 base with a thin silicon band as the gasket and putting that straight into the bottom of the 18mm hydratube is the easiest way. Not as easy or elegant for a 14mm tube, I'm still working on that.
If you have a regular style rig with an 18 or 14mm input, you can use some glass angled adapters to connect a 1/4" silicon tube between the mod and the dab rig. To connect the bottom base of the V3 to the glass elbow, you will need a 1/2" silicon hose cutting to connect the 2. You can get all the silicon hoses from DDave here at FC
If you have an 18mm input on your rig, you can get an 18mm m/m adapter and use a larger 1/2" hose the whole way for bigger airflow and more vape like on 3 out of my 4 adapters.
What about your 510 nail? What size is it? Outside diameter? If it's between 12-14mm, maybe you can use the half-inch silicon tube to connect it direct to the V3 base?
quick thoughts (freshly baked): quercetin is a bioflavanoid if I recall correctly, related to vitamin C.
according to the wiki, quercetin is present in lots of foods and vegetables, so I'll rely on eating those for my good daily quercetin dose
I don't mind leaving a few mg specs of that in my reclaim, nor do I want to raise the temp of the rest of my cannabinoids
above combustion level just to boil a little querc'
as to using a pad or wick, I don't see why it should be a reclaim nightmare, it could very well make cleaning much easier... toss the pad in your ISO, put a new pad on, clean the old pad, lather, rinse, repeat
I meant that in the sense that all the splatter and reclaim that accumulates on the steel pad would be pretty difficult
(not impossible) to "reclaim" if one wanted to, for re-consumption.
(i would) I find mouthpiece splatter reclaim to be rather fresh and desirable, it's not really boiled up or degraded most of the time, just splashed. Not everyone wants to re-vape this, so if you don't want to recover the reclaim, this shouldn't matter if you want to mesh it up
I haven't used a wick, I take it these ceramic wicks are some porous variation? As long as they are inert and do the job
As for these ceramic fiber wicks, I have been using them for a couple months with great effect on some of my RTAs, and they seem to be performing very well and have
hardly any taste or noticeable sensation. Compared to cotton, which tastes like crap and leaves tiny particulates that irritate my airway... so that's not saying much.
They aren't porous, it looks like a regular threaded fiber string, but it's made from furnace cured ceramic at 1850F+ for 12 hours, which is supposed to make it "inert" and safe for vaping use? I'll take their word. I did some research on the readyxwick and one reviewer complained about how tiny visible fibers are released from the wicks easily upon contact, and presumably during vaping. The owner / maker of the wicks replied and said this is safe because these fibers are larger in average size than
10-12 microns, which is large enough be caught in your mucosa and flushed out of your body normally, unlike smaller sized particulates (like from cotton or combusting) which will be absorbed more permanently in your lungs
What do you think about that?
I can't find the original posts about the particulate thing but you can see more here
http://www.rbasupplies.com/READYxWICK.html
The large donut performs like a tank but only when the lead posts are already clogged I think. I notice a "break in" period after every thorough cleaning. Thus, I actually let my large donuts build up for a while. Once it gets a bit bad I do the same cleaning techniques as the v2.5 on the v3 but with the outer housing off. I'll clean it this way 2-3 times and then the dark cup will bother me too much and will end off cleaning it with the burner on my kitchen stove. I don't have torches anymore.
I've done something similar on my last couple of cleanings, but I just take the dirty donut out of the cup and casing, then hook it up to a bare naked base and terminals from another V3, burn the donut clean, then re-install into it's original cup and housing without fully cleaning those parts. I'll do this if the parts other than the donut aren't that fouled up, I can just scrape up the little reclaim if it isn't much before re-installing the clean donut.
I'm wondering why you feel that the large donuts perform better when the wire lead posts get clogged? Is it for less airflow coming into the cup or another reason?
Ok just got my v3, before I squish something yummy, what should I run this at on an Istick tc40?
DT tells you in the little instruction paper to start low and move upwards. With the Istick 40w TC you only really got 2 modes. I think he says 240-260 is good to start on TC-Ni. 40w is fine with large donuts, although you don't have a choice about that with your mod. If that high watts bothers you, VW around 18-20w should work ok.
(BTW, my Basic can go up to 60 watts although it seems ALL sites advertise 40).
They released a firmware update shortly after the initial release of the evic basic that boosted it to 60w. This has become a common joyetech gimmick, release a new mod with held-back wattage, then release a software update soon after that to pump it up to its real wattage capabilities
I just glanced at the FC rules and i didn't see anything against cross-comparing similar products in the dedicated thread for one of those product. I don't think DT or any of the rest of us mind hearing how those different atty's stack up against each other, I'd like to see that
hopefully enough to warrant a cleaning so I can comment on that process as well.
There's also a crack in the donut where the first spark emerged. So I'm going to try my (last) clean donut, hopefully that one doesn't go! I'm wondering if 25w is too high for preheat. It's essentially off (25w for 1 sec with punch 1) but maybe lowering it more will help.... I noticed too that this second donut kept kicking out of TC mode (display shows "OFF" for temp when firing) so I would unscrew and rescrew it back on. I definitely wouldn't recommend using a stock DNA device at this point, because I've blown a donut even after tweaking... I will go back down to 18W and see how it goes with the 3rd donut. Finger crossed!
No rig or bubbler too? 
