The Beagle
Bubbles & Bags
Accidentally combusted today while trying to draw slower than usual, I guess it runs hotter than what I thought without the dimmer.
'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer
- Thread starter blokenoname
- Start date
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Morning 
Yep. Without a dimmer/vvps, it runs on the brink of combustion, so to say, and when you draw slower, less air flows over the heater and so vapour gets hotter and denser. Slow draw = hotter; faster draw = less hot.
Especially with a water piece, the draw should be a bit faster, than when using it dry
Also, check load volume and screens. Gunked up screens can easily lead to overheating, as air flow is hindered then and too small a load also means too much heat in not enough of material, which also might end in combustion, though this again can be mitigated by a faster draw.
The latest iteration of the Misty run a tidbit cooler at max voltage now, than some of the older betas, as the double sleeved heater cover robs a bit more of the available heat out the equation, which is a welcome side effect.
ETA: Also note, that without a dimmer, the Misty also runs a tidbit hotter, than with a dimmer set to its max, as the dimmer itself robs some fractions of a volt out of the circuit for its own needs.
Yep. Without a dimmer/vvps, it runs on the brink of combustion, so to say, and when you draw slower, less air flows over the heater and so vapour gets hotter and denser. Slow draw = hotter; faster draw = less hot.
Especially with a water piece, the draw should be a bit faster, than when using it dry
Also, check load volume and screens. Gunked up screens can easily lead to overheating, as air flow is hindered then and too small a load also means too much heat in not enough of material, which also might end in combustion, though this again can be mitigated by a faster draw.
The latest iteration of the Misty run a tidbit cooler at max voltage now, than some of the older betas, as the double sleeved heater cover robs a bit more of the available heat out the equation, which is a welcome side effect.
ETA: Also note, that without a dimmer, the Misty also runs a tidbit hotter, than with a dimmer set to its max, as the dimmer itself robs some fractions of a volt out of the circuit for its own needs.
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brainiac
log wrangler
Here she is 
Came carefully wrapped in recycled packaging materials
The oak Misty - and what a beauty
. Great work, Bloke. Real craftmanship 
Mahogany unit there too, keeping it company
Plugged it in, selected a suitably epic strain (Skunk #1), and put it to the test.
Works brilliantly
Will report further in the near future but now I must resume the testing
Came carefully wrapped in recycled packaging materials
The oak Misty - and what a beauty
. Great work, Bloke. Real craftmanship Mahogany unit there too, keeping it company
Plugged it in, selected a suitably epic strain (Skunk #1), and put it to the test.
Works brilliantly
Will report further in the near future but now I must resume the testing
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Took some pics in brought daylight, before I sent it on its way...
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
Every time I pop in I feel like this.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Hmmm... 
Instead of cutting a nice GonG and a rather short glass dd stem, from one of the 14/23 gg joint lab tubes, I could also cut a middle length GonG/dd combo tube, that can be also used either with a sliding bucket screen or a ss tip. And then use the remaining piece to cut two glass slide over tips from, that can be fixed to a nylon or wooden stem. Of course, I'll machine down one end of the stem then, to properly seat the glass tip and not use silicone there. Just wanted to see, how that looks in general.
Instead of cutting a nice GonG and a rather short glass dd stem, from one of the 14/23 gg joint lab tubes, I could also cut a middle length GonG/dd combo tube, that can be also used either with a sliding bucket screen or a ss tip. And then use the remaining piece to cut two glass slide over tips from, that can be fixed to a nylon or wooden stem. Of course, I'll machine down one end of the stem then, to properly seat the glass tip and not use silicone there. Just wanted to see, how that looks in general.
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ubardog
Well-Known Member
I vape over smoking for Health reason's. A counter active statement I know. The more inert the material is, the better.
I suppose it come's down to cost to getting extra boro tubes ?
If given a choice, I would pay extra and go full glass like on the left. Adding less inert materials is never a good thing for taste and purity.
Kinda brings me to the next point. Make sure your materials are good. Like a lot of cheaper stainless steel is just "plated" often with straight chromium. When you start filling washers (Washers are cheap) You file off the plating and are left with a cheaper steel below which will rust. Carbon steel is mostly Zinc plated. I know this from site work and have seen supposedly SS washers rusting after a short time.
I suppose it come's down to cost to getting extra boro tubes ?
If given a choice, I would pay extra and go full glass like on the left. Adding less inert materials is never a good thing for taste and purity.
Kinda brings me to the next point. Make sure your materials are good. Like a lot of cheaper stainless steel is just "plated" often with straight chromium. When you start filling washers (Washers are cheap) You file off the plating and are left with a cheaper steel below which will rust. Carbon steel is mostly Zinc plated. I know this from site work and have seen supposedly SS washers rusting after a short time.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
I know all that, @ubardog . This is still mostly a DIY project, so use whatever materials you personally see fit. For a 'for sale' version, the washers will be replaced by custom made ones anyway, that I'll get from a locksmith around the corner, laser cut from quality 1,5mm stainless steel and with the fitting holes and notches already lasered out. Will be around EUR 2,- a pop.
And no... the boro lab tubing isn't expensive at all. About EUR 2,50 a pop, for the 14,5/23 ground glass joint tube. Just trying different configurations here. I can either cut a short GonG and a dd stem from one tube, but the dd stem is even a bit shorter then, than the all glass combo dd stem/GonG to the left (in the pic above).
I can also cut a long dd stem, by cutting the tube directly at the joint, but the joint left, is of not much use for anything then. And finally, I can also cut it the way you see above, and make glass tips from the remaining piece of the tube.
And no... the boro lab tubing isn't expensive at all. About EUR 2,50 a pop, for the 14,5/23 ground glass joint tube. Just trying different configurations here. I can either cut a short GonG and a dd stem from one tube, but the dd stem is even a bit shorter then, than the all glass combo dd stem/GonG to the left (in the pic above).
I can also cut a long dd stem, by cutting the tube directly at the joint, but the joint left, is of not much use for anything then. And finally, I can also cut it the way you see above, and make glass tips from the remaining piece of the tube.
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ubardog
Well-Known Member
Nice
It's all coming together then!I think i mis-understood alittle and was not trying to teach you how to suck eggs . Was just alittle FYI to others and myself.
You trying make the most out of what you have and weighing up options because this is still R&D atm.
Talking as a future customer I would prefer Glass/SS 316L only.
brainiac
log wrangler
@ubardog still working on an answer to your question..
Yep, Bloke's picture is closer to the real colour of the oak unit. Took it down the beach this afternoon
for a glamour shot
Cloudy day with flat light doesn't manage to convey the richness of the wood tone, tho.
Clearly, I'll have to try harder
@blokenoname - plenty of glass options you have there. I guess you use a Dremel for cutting?
Do you need to smooth off the cut edges?
Very much like the idea of custom made washers - or perhaps the entire heater cover like Ed uses.
There's a picture on his thread here.
If it was for a 'for sale' unit that extra couple of quid/euros would have very little effect on the retail price.
Yep, Bloke's picture is closer to the real colour of the oak unit. Took it down the beach this afternoon
for a glamour shot
Cloudy day with flat light doesn't manage to convey the richness of the wood tone, tho.
Clearly, I'll have to try harder
@blokenoname - plenty of glass options you have there. I guess you use a Dremel for cutting?
Do you need to smooth off the cut edges?
Very much like the idea of custom made washers - or perhaps the entire heater cover like Ed uses.
There's a picture on his thread here.
If it was for a 'for sale' unit that extra couple of quid/euros would have very little effect on the retail price.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Ed's heater cover is also just a tube, mechanically fastened (doesn't look welded) to that big, custom made washer, with his logo cut out for an air intake and holes for the screws. Looks impressive, sure, but that's mostly due to the Ti tube itself being a bit more complex, with the machined down step at the top for the Vapcap tip, the custom Ti screen and the engraved pattern along the tube.
So mine will be similar, but not exactly that fine looking
And the mechanical fastening, I'll do myself. And for the mentioned price, this is a no brainer anyway.But... and big 'but' here: the thing with handcrafting a vape is, it's not exactly like ordering stuff from a gourmet menu! Take a DC jack for instance. When 90% of all potential customers, that purchase those jacks for a multitude of applications, mostly only ever need plated pot-metal rather than stainless steel, then plated pot-metal jacks is apart from a few lucky exceptions maybe, very probably all that the retail market will have to offer for you at that time. No one produces or stocks stuff, nobody buys! Same is true for steel tubing, washers and whatnot. For washers, you can have mostly zinc plated carbon steel, or stainless 304! If you want 316L or better, you'll have to have them custom made for you. And while this might be still affordable for something simple like a washer, try that with thin walled, telescopic ss tubing, or the DC jack, mentioned above.
If you can afford to order a whole production run or two... well, yes. Someone will gladly produce them for you then. But if you need maybe 20 pcs or so... just spare yourself the trouble and simply go with 304!
Once your show takes off and you've capital to invest, then you can also have nice things made for you, like a complete heater cover
, but for a one man show like mine here... better to keep me head out of the clouds and my feet on the ground Glass cutting!
Yes! Using the Dremel tool with a diamond cutter disk for that. Still a bit experimenting there, how to do it best. Tried cutting all around and then all the way through with the disk at first, which works ok. But the cut gets more even, when doing it the classical way, by just cutting a groove all around with the disk and then simply break it in half. Takes maybe a minute all in all.
I then take my delta sander with 180 grit to go over the cut, then wash it up and finally heat up the edges of the cut to a slight glow with a 3-flame butane torch, to melt down the edges a bit. First glass pic above, the short piece to the right is still untreated.
Edit: Also, cuts above were all made hand held. Have to build me a small fixture for this, then the cut will be even more even
Love that Misty on the beach
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The Beagle
Bubbles & Bags
Love the glass and good to hear you can have custom machined parts. I'm very curious to see how the final version will turn out.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Apart from some minor changes (like different materials for some components), I'd say, with the oak unit above and the mahogany unit, shown in the pics last page (post #360), we've now reached 'Golden Master', so to say.
ETA: seems, I've finally found a reliabale retailer for the 7,5w cartridge heaters
Have a batch incoming for Wednesday
ETA: seems, I've finally found a reliabale retailer for the 7,5w cartridge heaters
Have a batch incoming for Wednesday
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Nice
3mm x 0,3mm ss tubing. Makes for an inner diameter of 2,4mm. Guess, we can make nice ss splices from this and maybe simply crimp the heater to the DC jack then and forego the soldering competley. Should also improve on the heaters stability and further minimize the risk of twisting it, when screwing in (though the heater is quite rigid as is).
3mm x 0,3mm ss tubing. Makes for an inner diameter of 2,4mm. Guess, we can make nice ss splices from this and maybe simply crimp the heater to the DC jack then and forego the soldering competley. Should also improve on the heaters stability and further minimize the risk of twisting it, when screwing in (though the heater is quite rigid as is).
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Pondering an alternate take on a glass heater cover, utilizing a 14/23mm male joint tube
The joint would accept the classic 8mm or 5/16" ss tips for slide in and a stem with a 14mm female as glass dd stem for slide over, and of course any off the shelf 14mm GonG adapter for use through water.
Could be set into a cork base and if I'm able to cut slits into the glass, would also work with the replaceable heater.
Just a mockup, to see how that could work (and think the cartridge sans the insulation, of course).
The joint would accept the classic 8mm or 5/16" ss tips for slide in and a stem with a 14mm female as glass dd stem for slide over, and of course any off the shelf 14mm GonG adapter for use through water.
Could be set into a cork base and if I'm able to cut slits into the glass, would also work with the replaceable heater.
Just a mockup, to see how that could work (and think the cartridge sans the insulation, of course).
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
New wood
Maple, walnut, cherry
Maple, walnut, cherry
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Walnut Misty
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
None at all! Maybe 3 minutes per bore with about ~900rpm (2nd lowest setting), and you're done with the bore on each end
According to this wood hardness chart here, all the woods I'm using so far, have a hardness between 1000 and maybe 1500. No match, for the old drill press
http://workshoppages.com/WS/Misc/Wood-Hardness-Chart.pdf
According to this wood hardness chart here, all the woods I'm using so far, have a hardness between 1000 and maybe 1500. No match, for the old drill press
http://workshoppages.com/WS/Misc/Wood-Hardness-Chart.pdf
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Heeeeeaaaaters! Yeah!
