Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
This one reminds me of the HGL coreHeater cover redesign
).. Nice one,cheers !
'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer
- Thread starter blokenoname
- Start date
).. Nice one,cheers !
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Thanks
Will streamline that a bit more in the coming days. Have found a new 28mm/9mm body washer now, that fits the heater cover exactly and is still wide enough to fill the bore, so that it can be fastened by the clipring. The two small M8 washers holding the bigger 30mm washer in place now, will go away then and the new washer will be held in place directly by the flare at the base of the tube, and fastened from the other end by the few centimeters of 10mm x 0,5 ss tubing, I slipped over it. Being thicker walled than my usual 0,3mm tubing, the fit is rather tight there and I'd guess after some heat up cycles, it'll be difficult to remove it at all.
Makes the heater cover a single component now.
With the drill press, making proper holes into the heater cover instead of slits, is just a matter of seconds now, which is great. High temp o-ring can go onto the stop on the new heater cover at the 9mm/10mm step, for better sealing with 9,5mm-10mm ID slide over glass stems and GonGs. Removable Arizer/Vapcap bushing can still go on top of this. We'll also have two holes for screws in the new washer, for not depending on the clipring alone, holding the heater cover in place.
Also reworked one of the rather inexpensive diamond shaped PWM dimmers from the beginning of this thread, that I all but discarded due to the high pitched noise they made when driving a 30w-40w load. No such problems with a 7w load so far. Its big rotary knob was broken and so I got me a new, smaller knob and printed out a clock-face dial for it. Can maybe go with the Misty eventually.
ETA: Also have new blanks incoming today and so we'll see some cherry, ash and oak units in the coming days
Will streamline that a bit more in the coming days. Have found a new 28mm/9mm body washer now, that fits the heater cover exactly and is still wide enough to fill the bore, so that it can be fastened by the clipring. The two small M8 washers holding the bigger 30mm washer in place now, will go away then and the new washer will be held in place directly by the flare at the base of the tube, and fastened from the other end by the few centimeters of 10mm x 0,5 ss tubing, I slipped over it. Being thicker walled than my usual 0,3mm tubing, the fit is rather tight there and I'd guess after some heat up cycles, it'll be difficult to remove it at all.
Makes the heater cover a single component now.
With the drill press, making proper holes into the heater cover instead of slits, is just a matter of seconds now, which is great. High temp o-ring can go onto the stop on the new heater cover at the 9mm/10mm step, for better sealing with 9,5mm-10mm ID slide over glass stems and GonGs. Removable Arizer/Vapcap bushing can still go on top of this. We'll also have two holes for screws in the new washer, for not depending on the clipring alone, holding the heater cover in place.
Also reworked one of the rather inexpensive diamond shaped PWM dimmers from the beginning of this thread, that I all but discarded due to the high pitched noise they made when driving a 30w-40w load. No such problems with a 7w load so far. Its big rotary knob was broken and so I got me a new, smaller knob and printed out a clock-face dial for it. Can maybe go with the Misty eventually.
ETA: Also have new blanks incoming today and so we'll see some cherry, ash and oak units in the coming days
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brainiac
log wrangler
Looking back to your first post here in April it's astonishing how far you've progressed in just a few short months.
Nicely customised dimmer there, btw. Is that what you call a closed circuit?
The new wood is an exciting developement. Feels like things are really moving along
.
And three great options. They'll all make brilliant logs
Can you post some pix when they arrive?
ATB
Nicely customised dimmer there, btw. Is that what you call a closed circuit?
The new wood is an exciting developement. Feels like things are really moving along
. And three great options. They'll all make brilliant logs
Can you post some pix when they arrive?
ATB
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
@brainiac
Thank you
And the new wood has just arrived
Even get it in ready cut pieces of 10cm length
Left to right, this is cherry, oak and ash. Pic doesn't translate the differences very good. Will be more obvious, once the wood is waxed. Really like the cherry, though
New Ohmites arrived too... and also new steel, ss screens and nylon rods. New 28mm washers and extension cords with 90° angled plugs are on its way and so is an M11/1 thread cutter bit
And yes... that's a very closed circuit there
Thank you
And the new wood has just arrived
Even get it in ready cut pieces of 10cm length
Left to right, this is cherry, oak and ash. Pic doesn't translate the differences very good. Will be more obvious, once the wood is waxed. Really like the cherry, though
New Ohmites arrived too... and also new steel, ss screens and nylon rods. New 28mm washers and extension cords with 90° angled plugs are on its way and so is an M11/1 thread cutter bit
And yes... that's a very closed circuit there
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
There we go
"Sits, fits, wobbles and has space to breathe!" ... as the German says
... though screws and clipring together, are a bit of an overkill here, I'd guess
So... and this is, how it looks finished
"Sits, fits, wobbles and has space to breathe!" ... as the German says
... though screws and clipring together, are a bit of an overkill here, I'd guess
So... and this is, how it looks finished
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Evening
So... the new 28 mm washers arrived, but proved a disappointment so far. While their 9 mm hole fits the heater cover perfectly, the 2 mm difference in outer diameter already makes it impossible, to fasten them properly with a clipring
Though drilling holes into them for fastening with screws does work, it comes at the price of needing a new steel drill bit every other washer or so, as those buggers are a whopping 3 mm thick and the bits get blunt fast. So we go back to the 30 mm washer and circlips for now, till I get the custom made washers I ordered some days ago (30mm/9mm/1,5mm with two holes for screws).
On a brighter note, the M11/1 thread cutters arrived too, and these work out fine indeed. So we can dispense with the washer holding the jack in place now and the heater gets simply screwed in with the jack from the bottom cavity of the log and becomes user serviceable as a neat side effect
This is Ash now
So... the new 28 mm washers arrived, but proved a disappointment so far. While their 9 mm hole fits the heater cover perfectly, the 2 mm difference in outer diameter already makes it impossible, to fasten them properly with a clipring
Though drilling holes into them for fastening with screws does work, it comes at the price of needing a new steel drill bit every other washer or so, as those buggers are a whopping 3 mm thick and the bits get blunt fast. So we go back to the 30 mm washer and circlips for now, till I get the custom made washers I ordered some days ago (30mm/9mm/1,5mm with two holes for screws).
On a brighter note, the M11/1 thread cutters arrived too, and these work out fine indeed. So we can dispense with the washer holding the jack in place now and the heater gets simply screwed in with the jack from the bottom cavity of the log and becomes user serviceable as a neat side effect
This is Ash now
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brainiac
log wrangler
That ash Misty looks brilliant
Pale wood logs are eye catching and ash is very pale.
Added to that is some well defined grain on sides and top.
but I'd also go for the cherry wood first .
Sounds like more good news regarding production issues, Bloke. It all looks very tidy in there now.
ATB. Keep up the good work.
Pale wood logs are eye catching and ash is very pale.
Added to that is some well defined grain on sides and top.
Really, I want one of each
but I'd also go for the cherry wood first .Sounds like more good news regarding production issues, Bloke
. It all looks very tidy in there now.ATB. Keep up the good work.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@blokenoname Glad you got around trying the threadcutters,been having this idea for a long time,good to hear it is working out for you .I also have a set sitting here,but still havent messed around with it. Managed to get a full set for 10$ from aliexpress ,really looking forward to playing with those when i get around making some SS cores for those cartridges i have .
Looking at your concept, it seems that the resistor is a bit too close to the jack,and there is an exposed plastic ring (where the middle wire connects),have you measured temps at that spot ?Have you inspected the jacks after few days of runtime ?
What are your insights on the taste profile from the Enamel vs SS cartridge ?To me the Enamels feels a bit smoother and tastier ,totally worth it even for the price of being a little bit less power and durable.
Looking at your concept, it seems that the resistor is a bit too close to the jack,and there is an exposed plastic ring (where the middle wire connects),have you measured temps at that spot ?Have you inspected the jacks after few days of runtime ?
What are your insights on the taste profile from the Enamel vs SS cartridge ?To me the Enamels feels a bit smoother and tastier ,totally worth it even for the price of being a little bit less power and durable.
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Megaton
Well-Known Member
Really, I want one of each
Haha that makes two of us! Gotta catch 'em all!
@blokenoname that ash looks great!
@Abysmal Vapor i find, similar to you, that i like the enamal slightely more, but then in general i prefer a high mass core, which really shine with the more powerful cartridges. So in a standard core i would always prefer a resistor, but my ideal log would be a high mass with cartridge.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
@brainiac
Thank you
Yep! I'd say, that's probably as tidy and neat as it gets, with all the wiring gone now
@Megaton
Thanks! I like the ash, but cherry is my favorite so far
@Abysmal Vapor
The (proven) concept of soldering the resistor straight onto the jack, I got from Alan 's Toasty Top and orgiginal HI design, which he commentd on already, several pages back. Those were of a similar length. The insulating plastic ring is a full 2 cm away from the resistor, which is kilometers in terms of the miniature scale we're dealing with here (and probably a temp difference of at least a 100°C or more)! Placing a load at that distance from the heater, a breeze of hot air'd be all you get at 7w and 12v, but no vapor
And of course, I exchanged heaters several times between units within the last week, also experimenting with diferent length for the design and the insulation showed no sign of heat degradation at all. Would be a poor jack, if the insulation couldn't handle that
I settled for an overall 5,5 cm length for the heater and jack (excluding the nut), b/c with the top leg of the resistor bent down in a spiral shape to create some disturbances in the air flow, that's the maximum I can get to solder it directly to the minus wing of the plug, without having to add a splice or an additional piece of wiring to bridge the gap. Keeps the soldering to a minimum, doing away with two additional soldering spots.
(ETA: Re the thread cutters: yup! Got me a similar multi part set for just € 15,- from Amazon. Thing is, it misses the M11/1 cutter bit, that is needed for cutting threads fitting for the M11 threading of the jack, b/c that's regarded as rather 'uncommon' (it has 5,6,7,8,9,10mm bits and then comes 12mm). The two bit M11/1 set there cost a whopping € 25,-!
You'l need to drill a 9,5mm hole for the M11 threading, BTW.)
ETA2: Here! This is the insulation after a week of use for maybe 10hours/day. The tiny white spots all across are just dust and wood particles (did some sanding around the top after the fact), reflecting in the flashlight, I used for getting better lighting there:
Hi folks
After some experimenting
with the newly arrived blanks, I've the numbers down so far now for an underlying standard, regarding minimum dimensions of a Misty unit, which needed some reworking due to having the base now accommodating the DC input plug and the midsection of the Misty housing the DC jack, onto which the heater is soldered.
Minimum hight will be 9 cm
Minimum diameter will be 4 cm
Top bore will be 3 cm * 4 cm (wide/depths)
Bottom bore will be 2,5 cm * 2,5 cm (w/d)
Mid section will be 2,5 cm
Heater cover will be 4 cm
Heater overall length (jack inclusive) will be 5,5 cm, extending up to 3 cm into the heater cover, leaving another centimetre for the internal air gap and the ss tip to enter.
Hight (and thereby distance to load) of the heater extending into the heater cover can be varied about 5 mm, by adding 1-2 retaining nuts at the base of the DC jack, before threading in, making it easy to do hotter or cooler running units, as need be or wished for.
As a general rule, Misty units can be bigger than this (I plan for 3 sizes/diameters: 4 cm; 4,5 cm and 5 cm diameter), but not smaller!
The 9 cm minimum hight leave another centimetre for adding an optional wooden bottom cap, which is pure pragmatism here. The blanks come pre-cut at 10 cm length. Will make a 10 mm bore there for the cord to exit, centred at 1 cm hight from the bottom of the blank and then cut off the blank at 1 cm, leaving an arched aperture of 0,5 * 1 cm for the cord to exit and a similar aperture in the cut off piece, that can serve as optional bottom cap then (interchangeable of course with other wood choices of the same diameter), so that we have a semi circular aperture there, if the bottom cap is applied.
Here is a shot of the three units I experimented with in broad daylight (l>r: Ash, Cherry, Mahogany) and another shot of an Oak blank, with the optional bottom cap bored and cut off, and yet another of how a oak cap would fit onto a Mahogany unit (the cap obviously not yet sanded and waxed).
Thank you
Yep! I'd say, that's probably as tidy and neat as it gets, with all the wiring gone now
@Megaton
Thanks! I like the ash, but cherry is my favorite so far
@Abysmal Vapor
The (proven) concept of soldering the resistor straight onto the jack, I got from Alan 's Toasty Top and orgiginal HI design, which he commentd on already, several pages back. Those were of a similar length. The insulating plastic ring is a full 2 cm away from the resistor, which is kilometers in terms of the miniature scale we're dealing with here (and probably a temp difference of at least a 100°C or more)! Placing a load at that distance from the heater, a breeze of hot air'd be all you get at 7w and 12v, but no vapor
And of course, I exchanged heaters several times between units within the last week, also experimenting with diferent length for the design and the insulation showed no sign of heat degradation at all. Would be a poor jack, if the insulation couldn't handle that
I settled for an overall 5,5 cm length for the heater and jack (excluding the nut), b/c with the top leg of the resistor bent down in a spiral shape to create some disturbances in the air flow, that's the maximum I can get to solder it directly to the minus wing of the plug, without having to add a splice or an additional piece of wiring to bridge the gap. Keeps the soldering to a minimum, doing away with two additional soldering spots.
(ETA: Re the thread cutters: yup! Got me a similar multi part set for just € 15,- from Amazon. Thing is, it misses the M11/1 cutter bit, that is needed for cutting threads fitting for the M11 threading of the jack, b/c that's regarded as rather 'uncommon' (it has 5,6,7,8,9,10mm bits and then comes 12mm). The two bit M11/1 set there cost a whopping € 25,-!
You'l need to drill a 9,5mm hole for the M11 threading, BTW.)
ETA2: Here! This is the insulation after a week of use for maybe 10hours/day. The tiny white spots all across are just dust and wood particles (did some sanding around the top after the fact), reflecting in the flashlight, I used for getting better lighting there:
Hi folks
After some experimenting
with the newly arrived blanks, I've the numbers down so far now for an underlying standard, regarding minimum dimensions of a Misty unit, which needed some reworking due to having the base now accommodating the DC input plug and the midsection of the Misty housing the DC jack, onto which the heater is soldered.Minimum hight will be 9 cm
Minimum diameter will be 4 cm
Top bore will be 3 cm * 4 cm (wide/depths)
Bottom bore will be 2,5 cm * 2,5 cm (w/d)
Mid section will be 2,5 cm
Heater cover will be 4 cm
Heater overall length (jack inclusive) will be 5,5 cm, extending up to 3 cm into the heater cover, leaving another centimetre for the internal air gap and the ss tip to enter.
Hight (and thereby distance to load) of the heater extending into the heater cover can be varied about 5 mm, by adding 1-2 retaining nuts at the base of the DC jack, before threading in, making it easy to do hotter or cooler running units, as need be or wished for.
As a general rule, Misty units can be bigger than this (I plan for 3 sizes/diameters: 4 cm; 4,5 cm and 5 cm diameter), but not smaller!
The 9 cm minimum hight leave another centimetre for adding an optional wooden bottom cap, which is pure pragmatism here. The blanks come pre-cut at 10 cm length. Will make a 10 mm bore there for the cord to exit, centred at 1 cm hight from the bottom of the blank and then cut off the blank at 1 cm, leaving an arched aperture of 0,5 * 1 cm for the cord to exit and a similar aperture in the cut off piece, that can serve as optional bottom cap then (interchangeable of course with other wood choices of the same diameter), so that we have a semi circular aperture there, if the bottom cap is applied.
Here is a shot of the three units I experimented with in broad daylight (l>r: Ash, Cherry, Mahogany) and another shot of an Oak blank, with the optional bottom cap bored and cut off, and yet another of how a oak cap would fit onto a Mahogany unit (the cap obviously not yet sanded and waxed).
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Megaton
Well-Known Member
Loving how the bottom cap is looking @blokenoname, il bet an ash body with a mahogany cap would look stunning!
Good that you have so many available options, something for everyone!
Good that you have so many available options, something for everyone!
ubardog
Well-Known Member
Well resistor arrivied today.
Its at this point i realised i should have ordered SUM of the other bits needed but im so dam POOR atm. Due to life and its little hic-ups but nvm that.
No SS tube atm so its in a 10-14mm adapter atm. placed a glass tube on top with gauss ect. No vaper no joy but i got terps, defo tasted em. I need to get load closer but i need to get some SS piping 1st. Just a mock up really just to test resistor and theory before i went any further
Couple of pics for you to lol at
Here i left it doing a burn off
Its at this point i realised i should have ordered SUM of the other bits needed but im so dam POOR atm. Due to life
and its little hic-ups but nvm that.No SS tube atm so its in a 10-14mm adapter atm. placed a glass tube on top with gauss ect. No vaper no joy but i got terps, defo tasted em. I need to get load closer but i need to get some SS piping 1st. Just a mock up really just to test resistor and theory before i went any further
Couple of pics for you to lol at
Here i left it doing a burn off
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
@ubardog
No worries there, mate! Look back to the beginning of this thread, and you'll see some bloke stuffing a ready made heater into maple wood goblets, covering up all the ugliness with a layer of cork tape and calling it a 'log'!
So you're already starting out much more creative there
The materials for the log do not need to be expensive, but must fit the requirements of your heater.
The idea with the glass adapters is a good one in principle, but the resistor is very tiny and doesn't provide much surface area, so that the amount of air it can heat up quickly is fairly limited... and that limit is defined by the volume of air, that can pass through a tube of 8-10mm diameter. Ye smaller, ye better! The glass adapters there can handle a much larger air volume and are already too wide for the resistor to cope. Also, as you already noticed yourself, you want the heater closer to the load. 5 to 10mm is a good point to start experimenting there.
And you'll need a proper body for your vape, to provide a minimum of insulation, keeping the heat in place, rather than just dissipating into thin air.
I'd go for a design like Alan 's budget Bamboo HI log here, as the needed parts are quite affordable (there is a pic of all the needed parts, Alan posted a couple of pages back here) and a minimum of tools. For this, you'd need:
The resistor (check!)
Piece of bamboo rod, ca. 4cm in outer diameter and 10cm length
Two corks of roughly 3-4cm diameter and about 1 cm length
A glass tube of about 6cm length and an inner diameter of about 8-10 mm (look for 12mm boro glass test tubes. Their inner diameter should fit and they're quite inexpensive, but you have to find a way to shorten them).
A ss DC input jack and some wiring to extend the leads of the resistor
A ss pipe screen to cover the resistor.
You'll need at least a handsaw to cut the bamboo, a drill to make the hole for the jack and some sanding paper, to sand down the corks to fit into the bamboo body. If you've got a soldering iron for extending the leads and connecting them to the input jack, good! If not, a couple of blank butt splices of a fitting diameter and pliers to crimp them should also do.
No worries there, mate!
Look back to the beginning of this thread, and you'll see some bloke stuffing a ready made heater into maple wood goblets, covering up all the ugliness with a layer of cork tape and calling it a 'log'! So you're already starting out much more creative there
The materials for the log do not need to be expensive, but must fit the requirements of your heater.
The idea with the glass adapters is a good one in principle, but the resistor is very tiny and doesn't provide much surface area, so that the amount of air it can heat up quickly is fairly limited... and that limit is defined by the volume of air, that can pass through a tube of 8-10mm diameter. Ye smaller, ye better! The glass adapters there can handle a much larger air volume and are already too wide for the resistor to cope. Also, as you already noticed yourself, you want the heater closer to the load. 5 to 10mm is a good point to start experimenting there.
And you'll need a proper body for your vape, to provide a minimum of insulation, keeping the heat in place, rather than just dissipating into thin air.
I'd go for a design like Alan 's budget Bamboo HI log here, as the needed parts are quite affordable (there is a pic of all the needed parts, Alan posted a couple of pages back here) and a minimum of tools. For this, you'd need:
The resistor (check!)
Piece of bamboo rod, ca. 4cm in outer diameter and 10cm length
Two corks of roughly 3-4cm diameter and about 1 cm length
A glass tube of about 6cm length and an inner diameter of about 8-10 mm (look for 12mm boro glass test tubes. Their inner diameter should fit and they're quite inexpensive, but you have to find a way to shorten them).
A ss DC input jack and some wiring to extend the leads of the resistor
A ss pipe screen to cover the resistor.
You'll need at least a handsaw to cut the bamboo, a drill to make the hole for the jack and some sanding paper, to sand down the corks to fit into the bamboo body. If you've got a soldering iron for extending the leads and connecting them to the input jack, good! If not, a couple of blank butt splices of a fitting diameter and pliers to crimp them should also do.
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Morning
Findings over the course of the weekend:
Internal dimensions of the body for the new heater design had to be altered a bit. Mid section, housing the jack will now be 3cm long. Bottom cavity will be only 2cm long now. Was 2,5cm before, but that is already too long, so that the angled connector sits too high up within the cavity and the aperture for the cord becomes the size of a barn door... which frankly looks like crap
Pic showing two discarded bodies with the 'barn door' effect to the left and with the cherry unit to the right, this is how it rather should look like.
As the bloody DC jack is hard to grab even with pliers for heater removal and replacement, I just milled its retaining nut down on two sides and it now can be easily grasped with some needle nose pliers for screwing in or out
Last but not least, a shot of an oak unit
Have a nice Sunday
@The Beagle
Have a beta unit ready for you, though its still one with the non user serviceable heater. Shoot me a PM for the details.
ETA: Mahogany Misty with ash bottom cap
Findings over the course of the weekend:
Internal dimensions of the body for the new heater design had to be altered a bit. Mid section, housing the jack will now be 3cm long. Bottom cavity will be only 2cm long now. Was 2,5cm before, but that is already too long, so that the angled connector sits too high up within the cavity and the aperture for the cord becomes the size of a barn door... which frankly looks like crap
Pic showing two discarded bodies with the 'barn door' effect to the left and with the cherry unit to the right, this is how it rather should look like.
As the bloody DC jack is hard to grab even with pliers for heater removal and replacement, I just milled its retaining nut down on two sides and it now can be easily grasped with some needle nose pliers for screwing in or out
Last but not least, a shot of an oak unit
Have a nice Sunday
@The Beagle
Have a beta unit ready for you, though its still one with the non user serviceable heater. Shoot me a PM for the details.
ETA: Mahogany Misty with ash bottom cap
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ubardog
Well-Known Member
Wow Beagle you a very lucky man
@blokenoname Im expecting a little mouse to poke his head out of them doors
brainiac
log wrangler
Strong grain effect coming thro there, especially on the ash and cherry.
Out of interest, if the base cap is cut from the same blank can you align the it so that
the grain lines match up ?
Also, you have the rims bevelled atm. Could they be rounded ?
I realise that your primary focus is on the practical issues, ofc, and these are purely cosmetic concerns.
Also in the Friday and Sunday posts there were important details regarding
the minimum and maximum sizes available for Misty. It's definitely starting to take shape.
They're all looking great and the oak unit has come out really well.
Switched from imgur to postimage.
Mahogany Misty still doing it's daily job
atb
Out of interest, if the base cap is cut from the same blank can you align the it so that
the grain lines match up ?
Also, you have the rims bevelled atm. Could they be rounded ?
I realise that your primary focus is on the practical issues, ofc, and these are purely cosmetic concerns.
Also in the Friday and Sunday posts there were important details regarding
the minimum and maximum sizes available for Misty. It's definitely starting to take shape
.They're all looking great and the oak unit has come out really well.
Switched from imgur to postimage.
Mahogany Misty still doing it's daily job
atb
Megaton
Well-Known Member
I had a really nice, rare for me, dry session with my misty last night.
Using an 8mm ss tip on a glass stem at 12v, lots of flavour, effortless clouds. Lovely lovely.
i can see how easy it would be to "accidentely" have too many bowls, as it is just there ready and waiting, and can be chain vaped without missing a beat! I found myself reaching for it just cos, rather than because i was in any need of a hit.
Or otherwise known as, for science!
Using an 8mm ss tip on a glass stem at 12v, lots of flavour, effortless clouds. Lovely lovely.
i can see how easy it would be to "accidentely" have too many bowls, as it is just there ready and waiting, and can be chain vaped without missing a beat! I found myself reaching for it just cos, rather than because i was in any need of a hit.
Or otherwise known as, for science!
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Afternoon
Great pic again
Aligning the grain when the bottom cap is cut from the same blank should pose no problem, though the bottom cap will be optional anyway. For the standard model, the bottom cavity remains open for accessibility reasons.
Rounding off the top of the vape instead of beveling is no problem at all. Did that already with the thicker walled pine prototypes a while ago.
Yep. Precise measurement and size restrictions have become more important now, that the heater is user serviceable, and the log also has to hold the plug and cord. So the heaters and heater covers must all have the same size now and a body must be designed in a way, to accommodate both and the input plug.
Guess, I have the standard body down to a t now and got the 'barn door' problem down to size now. We can refine from there.
Great pic again
Aligning the grain when the bottom cap is cut from the same blank should pose no problem, though the bottom cap will be optional anyway. For the standard model, the bottom cavity remains open for accessibility reasons.
Rounding off the top of the vape instead of beveling is no problem at all. Did that already with the thicker walled pine prototypes a while ago.
Yep. Precise measurement and size restrictions have become more important now, that the heater is user serviceable, and the log also has to hold the plug and cord. So the heaters and heater covers must all have the same size now and a body must be designed in a way, to accommodate both and the input plug.
Guess, I have the standard body down to a t now and got the 'barn door' problem down to size now. We can refine from there.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Musings on how to fasten bottom caps (cork plug)... and cartridge heaters directly soldered to the jack work great too, though I have to make them a few millimeters shorter, than the resistor heaters, lest they'll be running too hot and can easily burn the load.
Means also, cartridge and resistor heaters just became interchangeable between standard log bodies! Not satisfied with a resistor heater? Just get yourself a cartridge one, set it in and enjoy!
Means also, cartridge and resistor heaters just became interchangeable between standard log bodies! Not satisfied with a resistor heater? Just get yourself a cartridge one, set it in and enjoy!
