sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
I read this thread over a few days before I received mine. I saw that you can use a power bank to run the couch log.

I tried to use a Power bank and the cable that was recommended. I combusted. What did I do wrong? The CL is definitely hotter with the power bank.

Help, please. What Did I mess up?
 

Canna Chameleon

Muted by mods. Run off by rudeness.
I read this thread over a few days before I received mine. I saw that you can use a power bank to run the couch log.

I tried to use a Power bank and the cable that was recommended. I combusted. What did I do wrong? The CL is definitely hotter with the power bank.

Help, please. What Did I mess up?
The power supply with the couchlog is 6v 4a. The powerbank is most likely 12v 3a.

I use the Couchlog with an ATM and drive it at 4.8v-5.1v for desired results.

I’m guessing you’ll have to reduce the number on your Couchlog dial significantly.
 

TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
The power supply with the couchlog is 6v 4a. The powerbank is most likely 12v 3a.

I use the Couchlog with an ATM and drive it at 4.8v-5.1v for desired results.

I’m guessing you’ll have to reduce the number on your Couchlog dial significantly.
The CL heater can take a maximum of 12W according to the 420eng site. Most powerbanks should have the older USB-A connectors that are generally rated 5V, 2.4A = 12W so they can be well suited to power it since you know it can't provide more than 12W. You just need a USB-A to 2.5mm DC cable.

In other CL related news, I pulled the trigger on an inexpensive DHGate dimpled glass j-hook with 90deg angle and flattened mouthpiece. I only had a cheap regular hook before with no turbulent cooling and this new hook is so nice!

I can handle hotter vapor and the mouthpiece is really comfortable. I think I like it better than through water for the moment.
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
Have returned to the VGoodiez 14mm injector bowl, and think this is returning to be my all-around favorite. Solid seal, and just much easier to load, clean and replace screens. Dump it in iso and you are good to go. Screens stay secure (unlike my frustrating GBV glass diffuser bowl).

That JoDa is also great but I am finding basket screens a bit of a pain. Tho I like how they enable you to adjust screen depth (and amount of flower). But part of this may just be that I've got my injector routine down pat due to experience with that sort of bowl.

And I should also note that I'm a sucker for buying screens by the hundreds, and swapping them out frequently. So that's a big bias for cheaper flat screens.
 

TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
Have returned to the VGoodiez 14mm injector bowl, and think this is returning to be my all-around favorite. Solid seal, and just much easier to load, clean and replace screens. Dump it in iso and you are good to go. Screens stay secure (unlike my frustrating GBV glass diffuser bowl).

That JoDa is also great but I am finding basket screens a bit of a pain. Tho I like how they enable you to adjust screen depth (and amount of flower). But part of this may just be that I've got my injector routine down pat due to experience with that sort of bowl.

And I should also note that I'm a sucker for buying screens by the hundreds, and swapping them out frequently. So that's a big bias for cheaper flat screens.
So I was just saying earlier how I've forsaken the moveable metal screen and opted for the VGoodiez glass bowl with the fixed glass screen. Just spray with iso and rinse once in a few uses and it's clean again. Also gives you an all-glass air path when used with a hook or water piece for the taste purists out there 😋.

Of course a fixed screen distance means you might have to futz with temps to get your roast right instead of moving screens, but so far I've found the magic number and I'm happy. Did you consider trying the glass screened injector? Seems like the VGoodiez bowl with the metal screen has the ledge meant to hold the screen at the same distance as the fixed glass one from what I can see.
 

rvarick

Well-Known Member
QQ please - what PSU are you using to power your ATM in this configuration? Mine is a 24V 6A one. I saw earlier though that Chris said not to go above a 12V VVPS, plus I see you mentioned the stock power supply being 4A.

So I'm second guessing whether I'll fry my Couchlog if I try to run it from my ATM. Or does the PSU not really matter, since it's going through a variable converter anyway; as long as I don't go about 12W? (always feel dumb when it comes to electrical stuff).
 
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rvarick,

Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
QQ please - what PSU are you using to power your ATM in this configuration? Mine is a 24V 6A one. I saw earlier though that Chris said not to go above a 12V VVPS, plus I see you mentioned the stock power supply being 4A.

So I'm second guessing whether I'll fry my Couchlog if I try to run it from my ATM. Or does the PSU not really matter, since it's going through a variable converter anyway; as long as I don't go about 12W? (always feel dumb when it comes to electrical stuff).
Your ATM will step down the voltage to what you set. I will be fine if you don't run it above the prescribed voltage.
 
Grass Yes,
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RedZep

Well-Known Member
I would like some more neutral woods. All are quite sensitizing. Apart from Oak. But isn't Oak an open pored wood? It's susceptible to moisture and mold.

Just don't see why we can't get some Cherrywood. I thought Germany has it natively. Far too much emphasis on exotic wood imo, which many people avoid due to potential reactions or allergies.
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
But isn't Oak an open pored wood? It's susceptible to moisture and mold.
Will depend in part on the meaning of open pored.
Of the many species of Oak, they are divided by the lumber industry into 2 general categories, Red Oak and White.
The distinction between them is that Red is "ring porous" and White is not.

With a ring porous oak (Red) you can actually use it like a straw. Not across the grain (rings), but in the direction of the grain. Looking at the end grain with a magnifier, one can see holes in the red oak but not in white. The holes typically run through to the other end of the piece.

But oak in general is called an open-grain wood, even with the finest sanding or a sharp scraper the surface will always have some divots, uneven-ness. Wood finishers often apply a grain filler prior to a final finish. Filling grain can keep dust, etc. Out of the small crevices.
Maybe this open grain is what leads to the impression that oak will get moldy?

Maybe the Red is more susceptible?
White Oak is considered to be somewhat better suited for exterior use...

Sorry to run on, but I had a career with wood. I always remember it as 'Red= Ring Porous". The R's.
 

Canna Chameleon

Muted by mods. Run off by rudeness.
Oak is a dense hardwood. These woods are heavily sanded, finished and polished. Unless you use the stem its not in the airpath anyway and the sleeve can be removed.

edit: also material safety discussions are not allowed in this thread. If you have questions please post them in the appropriate place.
  • If you have a question or comment regarding material safety, post it in General Discussion. Do not post it in a model thread.
 

RedZep

Well-Known Member
Will depend in part on the meaning of open pored.
Of the many species of Oak, they are divided by the lumber industry into 2 general categories, Red Oak and White.
The distinction between them is that Red is "ring porous" and White is not.

With a ring porous oak (Red) you can actually use it like a straw. Not across the grain (rings), but in the direction of the grain. Looking at the end grain with a magnifier, one can see holes in the red oak but not in white. The holes typically run through to the other end of the piece.

But oak in general is called an open-grain wood, even with the finest sanding or a sharp scraper the surface will always have some divots, uneven-ness. Wood finishers often apply a grain filler prior to a final finish. Filling grain can keep dust, etc. Out of the small crevices.
Maybe this open grain is what leads to the impression that oak will get moldy?
Yes maybe I'm combining both in my judgement. So in CL case only the open grain nature of the oak is applicable. Thanks for the correction

Oak is a dense hardwood. These woods are heavily sanded, finished and polished. Unless you use the stem its not in the airpath anyway and the sleeve can be removed.

edit: also material safety discussions are not allowed in this thread. If you have questions please post them in the appropriate place.
My apologies. I should have been aware of that posting rule. I don't think a new thread will be necessary, as my aspersions have already been corrected by yourself and vapviking.
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
So I was just saying earlier how I've forsaken the moveable metal screen and opted for the VGoodiez glass bowl with the fixed glass screen. Just spray with iso and rinse once in a few uses and it's clean again. Also gives you an all-glass air path when used with a hook or water piece for the taste purists out there 😋.

Of course a fixed screen distance means you might have to futz with temps to get your roast right instead of moving screens, but so far I've found the magic number and I'm happy. Did you consider trying the glass screened injector? Seems like the VGoodiez bowl with the metal screen has the ledge meant to hold the screen at the same distance as the fixed glass one from what I can see.

Yeah, I have tried Vgoodiez glass screen options too, and can't say that I notice too much difference between replaceable metal screens and glass screen ones for flavor. But I do enjoy the ease of quickly popping in a fresh new metal screen. And those glass screens can get a bit clogged up if you don't stay on top of cleaning.

Currently, Couchlog stock mouthpiece has become my least used. Unlined wood (IIRC, most Dynavap/Simrell/Phat Piggie stems are metal lined, and in the back of my head I figure there must be a good reason for that. Maybe just ease of cleaning.). Stock screens get pretty clogged pretty quick. Stock screens are 3 for 12 euros, as opposed to 50 flat screens for 6 dollars. Cleaning requires disassembly. Too wide to use "drinking straw" inhale for loading that makes smaller diameter stems for logs (e.g. original Underdog) so quick and easy. Tho love the flat side that keeps it from rolling away from you!!

But I do have a hunch that there may be some ways to make use of the adjustable metal screens like those in otherwise really excellent JoDa stems/WPA much more efficient. Just need to spend more time with them. And those glass screens can just drop right into iso for a good quick clean.
 

Razhumikin

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I have tried Vgoodiez glass screen options too, and can't say that I notice too much difference between replaceable metal screens and glass screen ones for flavor. But I do enjoy the ease of quickly popping in a fresh new metal screen. And those glass screens can get a bit clogged up if you don't stay on top of cleaning.

Currently, Couchlog stock mouthpiece has become my least used. Unlined wood (IIRC, most Dynavap/Simrell/Phat Piggie stems are metal lined, and in the back of my head I figure there must be a good reason for that. Maybe just ease of cleaning.). Stock screens get pretty clogged pretty quick. Stock screens are 3 for 12 euros, as opposed to 50 flat screens for 6 dollars. Cleaning requires disassembly. Too wide to use "drinking straw" inhale for loading that makes smaller diameter stems for logs (e.g. original Underdog) so quick and easy. Tho love the flat side that keeps it from rolling away from you!!

But I do have a hunch that there may be some ways to make use of the adjustable metal screens like those in otherwise really excellent JoDa stems/WPA much more efficient. Just need to spend more time with them. And those glass screens can just drop right into iso for a good quick clean.
I went away from the stock stems for a long time but I have come back to them recently and have really been enjoying it. I actually find that they are much easier to keep clean than the injector bowls; once i am done with a bowl in the stock stem I can just blow out the avb as a solid brick, so it stays cleaner for much longer, ans when you need to eventually clean it you can just dunk the metal in some iso for 10 minutes, rinse and dry and its good as new. Im surprised you say its too wide for packing it with the straw method, because thats the only way I use it and I think it works very well. Its also nice to add a little conduction to the heating for varietys sake, I like switching back and forth between the different bowls in a session to get different signatures from the same vape. I also really like using the wood stems natively, someone at the beginnung of the thread said this method felt lile a vapor blunt and I have to agree.
 
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Texus

Well-Known Member
Im surprised you say its too wide for packing it with the straw method, because thats the only way I use it and I think it works very well.
Yeah, it may be with stock stem and adjustable baskets that I just need to work on my routine/technique. But even for the Nano XL, intermediate diameter between the Underdog and Couchlog, I don't find straw sucking works as well. Your post is good motivation to revisit that now that I have more log experience.
 

TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
Yeah, it may be with stock stem and adjustable baskets that I just need to work on my routine/technique. But even for the Nano XL, intermediate diameter between the Underdog and Couchlog, I don't find straw sucking works as well. Your post is good motivation to revisit that now that I have more log experience.
I've tried the straw method with the stock stem and although it works fine, I find I still need to clean off the outside rim of metal bowl where it mates with the CL. That takes a little bit of time with the golf tee tool otherwise the straw loading method would be really quick.

If you don't clean off this perimeter of the bowl, you can get some burnt taste where it makes contact with the CL injector head.
 
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ezpz

Well-Known Member
Here’s my preferred setups.

If I’m macrodosing (~.15), I’ll use the glass CL bowl with screen mod. Fill and tamp my bowl with the TRWW scoop and tamp, and run it through my j hook or small wp. I use a 3:1 cbd/thc ratio when using this setup (middle container of Reload).

If I’m microdosing (~.05), I’ll use the metal CL bowl with screen mod on my bocote pipe (Etsy). Fill and tamp using the TRWW OGB. This setup is high thc only (bottom container of Reload).


Sorry. No link on the screen. Mistvape out of business.
 

TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
Since it arrived this morning, I can't stop pulling on the glasspipe blackforest oak

GLASSPIPE-BLACKFOREST-OAK-1.jpg



GLASSPIPE-BLACKFOREST-OAK-2.jpg


:)
I can't say why, but this post stuck in my head a while back even before I got my Couchlog.

I was laughing to myself because now this has become my favorite setup. I can't stop either! 😄🚀
 

Zillacon

🤠🤠🤠🤠
After a bit of time with the humi I have some opinions.
The one thing I do not prefer is that it is more cumbersome by default, not much you can do about it but it's worth noting. The humi has changed the way I consume by reducing the need for water and enjoying more a dry/moist experience. I historically choose water for the ease on my throat and reduce any asthma flare-ups. The humi has really allowed me to change up my experience by getting as ose to that dry experience without destroying my throat. I actually would choose the humi over a normal water session except for when I am being lazy. The only real drawback is the fact it's something to tend to while vaping...small nit-pick honestly. So yes I like the humi and think you should give it a try if it interests you.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
What is this green box ? Humi ? What is Humi, because I was reading someone earlier taking about something like that ?
Yes, the little green box. It's a beta unit of a humidifier for dry vape/rig use. You fill the little reservoir with distilled water, place it uncapped onto a 14mm joint feeding into your dry piece, plug it into a usbc power source, and then choose from two rates of vapor production. Makes the experience more comfortable and it seems to me more flavorful.

Edit: Yeah, this is nice.
IMG-6487.jpg
 
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Electrofever

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the answer. This can really be called an ‘add-on’ ! Never heard of it before or even the concept of adding humidity to the vaporizing process. Seems interesting and from what I read seems quite enjoyable. I’ll be happy to follow your heads up !
 
Electrofever,

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the answer. This can really be called an ‘add-on’ ! Never heard of it before or even the concept of adding humidity to the vaporizing process. Seems interesting and from what I read seems quite enjoyable. I’ll be happy to follow your heads up !
I need more time with this but I think @Zillacon is right on with both how nice it is and that it takes some fiddling. It addresses a longstanding need for folks who like to use dry glass to cool their vapor without flavor loss: it's usually dry, sometimes uncomfortably so. The Humi's a great option, but getting it into the vapor path without too much rigamarole is my current challenge. I've ordered one of these adapters which should simplify things a bit:
14MM%20GLASS%20CARB%20CLOUD%20BUDDY%20ADAPTER-0001.jpg
 
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