Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

[EmDeemo]

A flat screw in lid for the WE gets my vote, 6 holes

Something akin to the lid on this battery compartment -

In other news... Im back to dabs, at last, on the VRod. I forgot to put the terp pearls in and was wondering why performance seemed somewhat lacking.

I've just put them back in and holy shit, thats better!

 

[PandaLee]

This past week has been my first time using terp pearls and they do make a difference! Plus I love hearing them zoom around under the cap! First time using it, on my second draw (I traditional remove the cap to clear my draw and check whats left) - man that pearl came flying out, bounced off my knee and landed across the room!

 

[Vaporware]

IMO it would be preferable to just increase the draw restriction in the heat exchanger by incorporating smaller bore air inlets than use a carb cap. Same principal, easier vaping - and no hot carb caps.

I think one of the issues is that a carb cap for the Weedeater would potentially cost as much as a Showercap, but would only have half the function since you can't carb a dab on the weedeater. I'd appreciate a FP with a bit more draw resistance though as I like to use Flowerpots with larger water tubes.

That could work, but it wouldn’t be adjustable. To keep the option for wide-open airflow like it has now, I still like my idea of adding threading on the top of the head and offering a cap that could screw on to restrict it for a session - or if the cap had adjustable airflow you could probably just leave it on and adjust it in place with a dab tool or tooth pick or whatever you had available.

...and since it would be attached you couldn’t accidentally fling it off like some people have done with other caps.

 

[EmDeemo]

...and since it would be attached you couldn’t accidentally fling it off like some people have done with other caps.

Plus no dabber attached to it, which is exactly how I accidentally fling mine to the floor

Tbf, the tiny ball point dabber has survived admirably, even if it is a little wonky now

 

[invertedisdead]

That could work, but it wouldn’t be adjustable. To keep the option for wide-open airflow like it has now, I still like my idea of adding threading on the top of the head and offering a cap that could screw on to restrict it for a session - or if the cap had adjustable airflow you could probably just leave it on and adjust it in place with a dab tool or tooth pick or whatever you had available.

...and since it would be attached you couldn’t accidentally fling it off like some people have done with other caps.

IMO a flowerpot without a carb cap rips exactly like a combustion bong hit - especially the way you have to control your own draw rate - BUT I think what some folks like about the carb cap is it adds some draw resistance which would normally be experienced from a packed push bowl. Whereas with a convection vaporizer bowl, with a fine grind and high surface area, the bowl never creates a bottleneck in the airflow. The carb cap adds the familiar "one hole restriction" which would be experienced with any type of classic glass push bowl dry pipe, bubbler, or bing.

Ultimately I don't feel adjustable airflow is necessary as I'm of the less is more/ KISS design philosophy, but I do feel the FP heat exchanger would be "easier" for all ranges of users if the airflow was slightly reduced to add a bit more back-pressure.

The good sir @KeroZen has talked about this a lot regarding conduction vaporizers where the draw rate is purposely restricted to force the user into a specific draw rate to avoid overpowering the heater, versus boutique convection vaporizers where the draw rate is very open and up to the end user to dictate. Ultimately I think there's a balance that can be met there.

The Showerhead has enough airflow that you can clear a water pipe without even removing the bowl, or the heater; and to me, that is one of the key differences between it and a combustion hit where you'd need to pull the slide for sufficient airflow to clear the tube.

 

[Vaporware]

@invertedisdead I agree with almost everything you said, but the adjustable part of the cap idea is totally optional.

Since you like it wide open (and I generally do too) I’d hate to see it much more restricted for everyone, but I think even a normal cap with a hole or two in it that screwed onto the top and provided restriction for those who wanted it would give WeedEater users the same set of options for flower as ShowerHead and VRod users while still keeping it pretty simple and not adding the extra problems that a loose carb cap brings.

In its simplest form the only drawback I can see is that you’d have to let it cool down before taking it off if you wanted to open the airflow back up, but I think that’s made up for by the other side of that feature - it maintains the simple head with no extraneous parts to worry about while you use it.

Alternatively a more restricted top half of the WeedEater could be swapped in, but then you have to deal with taking it off the coil and putting it back on which is a bit more of a hassle.

Anyway, it seems like a lot of people who know about the ShowerHead and VRod and have read about other people capping them are interested in trying their WeedEaters with more restriction, so some option for them would be nice.

 

[Baron23]

In its simplest form the only drawback I can see is that you’d have to let it cool down before taking it off if you wanted to open the airflow back up

Or to stir, empty, and refill.

Its just my design philosophy but I think screw on cap and adjustable airflow caps are more complex than the application requires.

I have a Liger cap adjustable for one to four open holes...never use it....and to me its a PIA.

 

[Vaporware]

Or to stir, empty, and refill.

Its just my design philosophy but I think screw on cap and adjustable airflow caps are more complex than the application requires.

I have a Liger cap adjustable for one to four open holes...never use it....and to me its a PIA.

Sure, an adjustable cap would be more complicated, that’s why I said it’s entirely optional and not included in the simple version.

I think I’m not making myself clear enough because there would be no need to do anything different than you already do with the WeedEater apart from having the option to attach or detach an airflow restriction cap on top of the head. It wouldn’t impact the bowl at all.

To give you a picture with existing parts, basically imagine screwing the ShowerCap onto the ShowerHead for draw restriction when you wanted it rather than having it just sitting loose on top. Does that make more sense?

Threading probably isn’t the only way to secure it, but since we’re already screwing the top and bottom of the head together I think we could handle it.

...but maybe screwing isn’t the best word here?

 

[Baron23]

It wouldn’t impact the bowl at all.

Ah...in re-reading...with actual comprehension (LOL) you were perfectly clear and I totally misunderstood.

Of course you are exactly right....no need to take it off to get to the bowl. Don't know what the hell I was thinking.

Cheers

 

[YaMon]

I purchased a WE to take to Jamaica in the Fall, so last night I disconnected my ShowerHead and fired up the WeedEater. I went straight to my tried and true 747. I can hear the crackle of the herbs when I set the WE on the bowl and the performance is flawless. WE is lighter and cleaner looking than the ShowerHead, but what about the carb cap dilemma?

I lowered the temp to 700 and once stabilized I fired up another bowl, but this time I tried the ShowerHead carb cap. It could be balanced on the bowl, but will not stay on it’s own. It does seal well enough to effectively lower the pressure and milk my stereo matrix. That said, it’s performance uncapped at a higher temperature was more than adequate. The decision matrix I published in http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/newvape-flowerpot-twax-vaporizer.23162/page-552#post-1358245 still holds true.

 

[nodrog]

TBH, one of the best controllers I have seen is an Omron E5CC based box. You get the Omron sub-assembly, a solid state relay, a power interface and power button, and that's about it for the guts of it.

Maybe you can help me out. I bought an Omron E5CC from Thick Ass Glass about 3 years ago. Have used it a bunch with my Liger. Temperature no longer staying steady. Bought a new coil some months ago, seemed to help. Then the temperature was going all wonky. Figured it was broken, stuck it in a box. Few days ago looked up autotuning and reset the autotune. Worked fine for a few days, now messed up again but differently. Before, the temperature vacillated a LOT. Now, the actual temperature is far lower than it should be but the reading on the E5CC unit stays steady.

Right after I autotuned it last week, I would set it at about 650 and the SiC dish in my Liger reads about 400-420 using the IR thermometer. But now, even if I go as high as 750-800 on the E5CC, the dish stays about 250. Even pointing the IR beam directly at the coils shows only about 400 when the E5CC is showing 700 without much variance.

So! The question is:
A) did I mess up the autotune somehow and is that worth revisiting?
B) Is this unit actually too old and starting to have problems I can't address? Ie, do I actually need to replace it?

I ordered a weedeater (CANNOT WAIT, WHERE IS MY SHIPPING NOTIFICATION!!!!!!!!!) and a box for that, may try plugging my current coil/Liger into it, see if that helps. But given that you mentioned the E5CC so positively, thought it might be worth asking if maybe there's a setting I missed that's making it malfunction. It won't heat up to the correct temperature, no matter what I have it set at. Again, relatively new coil too.

Thoughts?

 

[Baron23]

Maybe you can help me out. I bought an Omron E5CC from Thick Ass Glass about 3 years ago. Have used it a bunch with my Liger. Temperature no longer staying steady. Bought a new coil some months ago, seemed to help. Then the temperature was going all wonky. Figured it was broken, stuck it in a box. Few days ago looked up autotuning and reset the autotune. Worked fine for a few days, now messed up again but differently. Before, the temperature vacillated a LOT. Now, the actual temperature is far lower than it should be but the reading on the E5CC unit stays steady.

Right after I autotuned it last week, I would set it at about 650 and the SiC dish in my Liger reads about 400-420 using the IR thermometer. But now, even if I go as high as 750-800 on the E5CC, the dish stays about 250. Even pointing the IR beam directly at the coils shows only about 400 when the E5CC is showing 700 without much variance.

So! The question is:
A) did I mess up the autotune somehow and is that worth revisiting?
B) Is this unit actually too old and starting to have problems I can't address? Ie, do I actually need to replace it?

I ordered a weedeater (CANNOT WAIT, WHERE IS MY SHIPPING NOTIFICATION!!!!!!!!!) and a box for that, may try plugging my current coil/Liger into it, see if that helps. But given that you mentioned the E5CC so positively, thought it might be worth asking if maybe there's a setting I missed that's making it malfunction. It won't heat up to the correct temperature, no matter what I have it set at. Again, relatively new coil too.

Thoughts?

@710Coils
Tagging my friend, Shane, who helped me with mine.

TBH, its kind of hard to see how this could be the Omron sub-assembly as like many digital devices I should think it either works right or doesn't work at all.

From what you describe, I would suspect a bad thermocouple on the coil. I have had that once with a D-nail coil....controller is showing its at set point but the delta with the dab surface was far to big to be reasonable. Was the coil.

Also, below are the Omron settings that have been used by many and are what I used (again, from Shane).
==============

Omron E5CC controller settings:

Your settings should be as follows

Hold down 1st button for 4 seconds
- Press 2nd button to cycle through
- Use up and down arrows to select value

CN-t = 5
d-U = F
SL-H = 1300
SL-L = -200
CNTL = Pid
S-HC = Stnd
St = ON
CP = 2
GREV = GR-R
ALt1 = 2
ALH1 = 0.2
ALt2 = 2
ALH2 = 0.3

Hold Down 1st button for 3 seconds to exit/save

From Main screen
Press 2nd button to see option

R-5 = RUN
AL-1 = 0
AL-2 = 0

From Main Screen
Press 1st button
At = ON (setting will go back to off when you turn the unit off, this is okay because it is part of the calibration process, it only needs to calibrate once)

Links to how to set auto tune on the omron:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0235/4119/products/enail_instructions.png?v=1464960950
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0235/4119/products/enail_instructions_page_2.png?v=1459346379​

Hope this is helpful.

 

[thevapist]

For the past while, I was using two 5mm SiC terp pearls from ebay that were linked many pages back. Definitely a huge step up from no pearls... but now I'm trying four and wow, it really works a lot better IMO.

How many terp pearls are you guys using? I'm using the two 5mm SiC and then two 5mm quartz from NV. Not sure which is the correct size, but the ebay SiC are visibly smaller than the NV quartz pearls.

About to grab a bag of 5mm SiC from a bulk vendor.

 

[turk]

...using the two from new vape..but only with the dcup..haven’t even tried with the vrod..love it in the dcup!

 

[RBM]

Is the panhead bowl supposed to 'secure' to the post when you screw in the handle? My handle inset if far too short to achieve this.

 

[nodrog]

From what you describe, I would suspect a bad thermocouple on the coil. I have had that once with a D-nail coil....controller is showing its at set point but the delta with the dab surface was far to big to be reasonable. Was the coil.

OK. Re-reautotuned the E5CC. Worked great! Set it about 650, the dish stayed nice and hot about 400-415 per the IR thermometer, just where I like it.

Next time I tried to use it, though, wouldn't go above 300 in the dish no matter the temperature on the unit. Ordered a new 16-mm coil, hope that does the trick. I'm kind of lusting after the NV D-cup, but if a $60 coil takes me back to easy e-nail dabs, I think I'll forego the pleasures of the D-cup for the moment. The liger v2 does work well, after all, even with the relatively tiny dish. I'm not one of those guys stunting on IG with their massive globs anyway.

Thanks for the slightly off-thread help here!

 

[Baron23]

OK. Re-reautotuned the E5CC. Worked great! Set it about 650, the dish stayed nice and hot about 400-415 per the IR thermometer, just where I like it.

Next time I tried to use it, though, wouldn't go above 300 in the dish no matter the temperature on the unit. Ordered a new 16-mm coil, hope that does the trick. I'm kind of lusting after the NV D-cup, but if a $60 coil takes me back to easy e-nail dabs, I think I'll forego the pleasures of the D-cup for the moment. The liger v2 does work well, after all, even with the relatively tiny dish. I'm not one of those guys stunting on IG with their massive globs anyway.

Thanks for the slightly off-thread help here!

Did you check you settings per the data I posted?

 

[nodrog]

Did you check you settings per the data I posted?

Yeah, that was very helpful. It's set up exactly like your instructions but not putting out sufficient heat.

 

[710Coils]

@nodrog It could be the Omron controller or possibly the SSR relay. But the auto tune should only need to be ran once every blue moon.
I dont think its the coil since you described the issue happening with the old and the new coil.

Shane

 

[Baron23]

@nodrog

@nodrog It could be the Omron controller or possibly the SSR relay. But the auto tune should only need to be ran once every blue moon.
I dont think its the coil since you described the issue happening with the old and the new coil.

Shane

Hi Shane - the SSR? Really? I have a difficult time coming up with a failure mode on a solid state relay that doesn't result in either a full open or closed condition. How can that contribute to lower actual temps?

Also, I wonder what kind of failure mode would have a digital PID assembly not reading the return voltage on the TC correctly? Yes, there must be an A to D converter to convert return voltage to binary so maybe there.

But, as I read the OP's posts.....he has NOT yet tried another coil with this controller. He did order another one but is awaiting it.

hehehehe....bet you a nickel its his coil! haha ;-)

 

[710Coils]

SSRs can fail and become faulty without being always open or closed. The way you can confirm if its working as expected is to listen to the click noise it makes when it comes on and off. If you can hear it click when the heat rises and then click when it lowers. It should be working fine. SSRs like anything else can be built very cheaply and these are the ones that can cause issues.

The only reason I called out the SSR is there isnt much else that might be off beyond it or the PID that would cause the issues reported when using 2 different coils =)

 

[EmDeemo]

For the past while, I was using two 5mm SiC terp pearls from ebay that were linked many pages back. Definitely a huge step up from no pearls... but now I'm trying four and wow, it really works a lot better IMO.

How many terp pearls are you guys using? I'm using the two 5mm SiC and then two 5mm quartz from NV. Not sure which is the correct size, but the ebay SiC are visibly smaller than the NV quartz pearls.

About to grab a bag of 5mm SiC from a bulk vendor.

I had been wondering whats optimal with the VRod/carb cab holes/amount of terp pearls when I first started using them, but I quickly gave up as everything just works fine.

For the record, I'm using three pearls (I had four but inevitably one died very quickly due to me killing it ), a two hole carb cap, and temps in the high 500/low 600 range.

I'll be getting a DCup sometime soon tho so I doubt I'll be doing much research into this with the VRod

 

[Grifo]

Ive been using a cone shaped slide bowl and flipping my shower head upside down and swirling it in circles and getting very fast extraction. I dont think it has improved performance but its kinda fun for some reason.

 

[Chris_CH]

do show...

Ive been using a cone shaped slide bowl and flipping my shower head upside down and swirling it in circles and getting very fast extraction. I dont think it has improved performance but its kinda fun for some reason.

 

[EmDeemo]

Slight flower combustion incident last at 620f using the carb cap.

Forgot what I was doing for a moment, lost my damn mind there for a second!

EDIT: Double deckers, VRod, 620f, three NV quartz terp pearls, two hole carb cap.