Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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eideal852

Well-Known Member
not my Z but figured i would share. Went to take my V off the mod and it made a crunch sound then the wood spun on the metal base. Then i realized the glass was loose!!

@TiSteamo the glass goes all the way to the bottom and the screen sits in the middle of the glass.

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20191215-083159.jpg
Aha! Shorter glass than the US Z looks like.
 
eideal852,

eideal852

Well-Known Member
is this the squonk where you said stem doesnt fit?
does it fit an 18650?

the stems that come/came/combed with the Mi2 are my fave because they fit perfectly in the Mi Battery hole, it would be super dope if you could store the stem in the mod...
 
eideal852,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
is this the squonk where you said stem doesnt fit?
does it fit an 18650?

the stems that come/came/combed with the Mi2 are my fave because they fit perfectly in the Mi Battery hole, it would be super dope if you could store the stem in the mod...
No they don't fit. You can get one in there but the joint segment needs to be inserted awkwardly around the little nozzle that receives the tube from the squonk bottle and even then the plastic battery door doesn't quite fit right once it's in there.

Still a DNA250C for $64 shipped from a US seller though. My wenge Z is on a Drone and it's a great combo. I actually prefer the lighter weight compared to my three cell Think Vape Finder although better battery life is always better.
 
bossman,
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eideal852

Well-Known Member
No they don't fit. You can get one in there but the joint segment needs to be inserted awkwardly around the little nozzle that receives the tube from the squonk bottle and even then the plastic battery door doesn't quite fit right once it's in there.

Still a DNA250C for $64 shipped from a US seller though. My wenge Z is on a Drone and it's a great combo. I actually prefer the lighter weight compared to my three cell Think Vape Finder although better battery life is always better.
Damn you christmas!!!
 
eideal852,
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
And I even asked, out loud, for anyone to point out a decent sale on a DNA mod, and @bossman did exactly that. I wouldn't want to discourage people from following my own directions, ya know? :lol:

And yes, the ZV2 was quietly whining that it had to live on my RX 2/3. My regular Splinter will get that back now...
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
And I even asked, out loud, for anyone to point out a decent sale on a DNA mod, and @bossman did exactly that. I wouldn't want to discourage people from following my own directions, ya know? :lol:

And yes, the ZV2 was quietly whining that it had to live on my RX 2/3. My regular Splinter will get that back now...
Well, HCIGAR DNA75 is still under 58$ :tup:
 
GoldenBud,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
And I even asked, out loud, for anyone to point out a decent sale on a DNA mod, and @bossman did exactly that. I wouldn't want to discourage people from following my own directions, ya know? :lol:

And yes, the ZV2 was quietly whining that it had to live on my RX 2/3. My regular Splinter will get that back now...

Not that you asked for this one, but I might suggest watching sales for a Sinuous P80 for that regular splinter now, since it looks like Tubo firmware will be able to work with it (judging by the Tetra P80)... I'm so so sorry my friend lol
 

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
Well, I charged the batteries, attached the mouthpiece to the Z, attached the Z to the Geekvape Aegis X and somehow I failed. The Z appears to heat well as it gets quite warm, however the glass never really got warm. The ABV was still green. Absolutely no vapor.

The mod says 35W. The ohms are 39 at rest and 53 when applying the fire button. The volts indicate 37.0. The AMPS show .00 at rest and 8.20 using the fire button.

So, where did I go wrong?
 
Bazinga,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Well, I charged the batteries, attached the mouthpiece to the Z, attached the Z to the Geekvape Aegis X and somehow I failed. The Z appears to heat well as it gets quite warm, however the glass never really got warm. The ABV was still green. Absolutely no vapor.

The mod says 35W. The ohms are 39 at rest and 53 when applying the fire button. The volts indicate 37.0. The AMPS show .00 at rest and 8.20 using the fire button.

So, where did I go wrong?
That's fucked up. Try 38 to 40W? I'd obviously suspect the mod but just because I know nothing about that one. Somebody explained to me that certain mods are incompatible because of some ejuice-related protection but I think that was only supposed to affect TC.

A Z should always produce vapor even at the lower wattage you started with once it warms up though. That Drone deal plus an actually shipped rxg3d would be the best value.
 

IAmKrazy2

Darth Vapor
Have an 18mm whip attachment, that I have been using instead of a stem for about a week with my Z. Just a fun little way to walk around the house with this vape and puff away. Z is always in heavy rotation but had been neglected a few weeks. Hooking the whip up gives it a whole new fun feel.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Well, I charged the batteries, attached the mouthpiece to the Z, attached the Z to the Geekvape Aegis X and somehow I failed. The Z appears to heat well as it gets quite warm, however the glass never really got warm. The ABV was still green. Absolutely no vapor.

The mod says 35W. The ohms are 39 at rest and 53 when applying the fire button. The volts indicate 37.0. The AMPS show .00 at rest and 8.20 using the fire button.

So, where did I go wrong?

Just to clarify, you should be attaching the mouthpiece to the Z last, after everything is already connected to the mod... The glass mouthpiece is also your chamber/bowl, so you would load that with herb and then insert into the entire vape which would be the Z+mod... Then when you hold down the trigger at say 35 Watts, give it five seconds before you start inhaling slow and steady for at least eight seconds before you let go of the trigger and keep inhaling to clear... I don't remember if you are new to pure convection on demand or not, but figured I should mention that all before we get into any potential settings problems...
 

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
Just to clarify, you should be attaching the mouthpiece to the Z last, after everything is already connected to the mod... The glass mouthpiece is also your chamber/bowl, so you would load that with herb and then insert into the entire vape which would be the Z+mod... Then when you hold down the trigger at say 35 Watts, give it five seconds before you start inhaling slow and steady for at least eight seconds before you let go of the trigger and keep inhaling to clear... I don't remember if you are new to pure convection on demand or not, but figured I should mention that all before we get into any potential settings problems...

I have followed this protocol exactly. As I mentioned, I've increased the wattage to 39 and also tried pressing the fire button for about 20 seconds. No vapor.

Showoff !!! I noticed the temperature displayed on all 4 devices. Does this mean you are not using watt mode?
 
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Psyentist

Well-Known Member
I have followed this protocol exactly. As I mentioned, I've increased the wattage to 39 and also tried pressing the fire button for about 20 seconds. No vapor.
Hey mate, I’ve used my Z on an aegis legend and it worked well. The biggest hurdle I found when figuring out how to use my splinter was the inhale strength. Everybody says to inhale really slowly but I found I had to increase this to about a medium draw to get good results. Maybe try that. Also, pretty sure the geekvapes have a 10 sec cutoff so try releasing and repressing the fire button during your draw.


To be honest I used mine mainly in tcr mode. Locked the resistance and used tcr 140 and temp 410 values. This worked really well for me and was pretty close to my dna mods. Hope this helps. :tup:


Edit: And as others have said, the second draw is where the money is. Once everything is nicely warmed up.


ETA: I'd actually be curious as to why those of you who have manually changed your resistance have done so. Genuine curiosity. I do get part of why but I'd like to hear your thoughts on it.
I’m actually quite curious about this too, I have never felt the need.
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Showoff !!! I noticed the temperature displayed on all 4 devices. Does this mean you are not using watt mode?
I prefer to use both but I haven't learned to stop these DNAc boards from checking the resistance when I switch back to wattage. One unfortunate thing about DNAc mods is the extra button pressing: with most any other mod the up and down buttons are directly available to adjust the heater but with DNAc you have to select the temp or wattage field on the display and hit the center button to edit it. It's worth it but it's another thing that makes me lazy about switching modes. On the rxg3d I can set that to a triple click of the fire button.

Also, pretty sure the geekvapes have a 10 sec cutoff so try releasing and repressing the fire button during your draw.
Smart. I wish I'd thought to suggest that. I don't have any mods that timeout under 20 seconds so I forget.
 
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Cilleire

EuroVapeSim2





I've not seen anyone else doing this, I got fed up with weed falling out of baskets and not having dosing capsules which fit glass stems. I used a round wooden rod to push the basket back in on itself and a set of pliers to clean up the edges.
If you like to fill the glass joint itself the modified basket also works as a cap to keep weed closer to the heater.
 

Trackrat

Well-Known Member





I've not seen anyone else doing this, I got fed up with weed falling out of baskets and not having dosing capsules which fit glass stems. I used a round wooden rod to push the basket back in on itself and a set of pliers to clean up the edges.
If you like to fill the glass joint itself the modified basket also works as a cap to keep weed closer to the heater.
I think you found your calling
 
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