Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Nothing wrong I'm very satisfied with the fluxer and lucky not to have my relay go bad. I'm simply getting more cycles than I would like. The torch gives me 3-5 strong hits per load which I prefer rather than the soft 5+ hits I get with 16mm coil

PM sent. For anyone interested in a different coil size, I will be happy to swap coils for you for a modest $10 + shipping, to cover costs. Please send me a PM, we'll work out the details. Of course, you are also free to swap heaters if you can find a trading partner, but the coils are pretty easy for me to swap out.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Can you give us an idea what the waiting list is like?
Impatient but patiently waiting.:bowdown:

Unfortunately, the waiting list is long, and my pace is modest. The recent power relay and MOSFET issues have also slowed me down, as I only have so many hours in a week I can give to this project, and some of those hours have been spent doing repairs and research. I really want these to work for everyone, and it has been very frustrating to me that that has not always been possible.

So, the pace is slow, and the wait is long. Sorry. :rolleyes:
 

Mangu

Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong I'm very satisfied with the fluxer and lucky not to have my relay go bad. I'm simply getting more cycles than I would like. The torch gives me 3-5 strong hits per load which I prefer rather than the soft 5+ hits I get with 16mm coil

Can you just leave your load in there a little bit past the click? Wouldn’t that solve the issue for you as well? Just wondering....because I was having a similar issue with the PSM till I decided to simply leave the tip pressed down a second or two past the click and I get the perfect amount of heating.
 

started@52

Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong I'm very satisfied with the fluxer and lucky not to have my relay go bad. I'm simply getting more cycles than I would like. The torch gives me 3-5 strong hits per load which I prefer rather than the soft 5+ hits I get with 16mm coil
Is your temp control set to high temp? (all the way counter clockwise)
 

Gray Area

Well-Known Member
Can you just leave your load in there a little bit past the click? Wouldn’t that solve the issue for you as well? Just wondering....because I was having a similar issue with the PSM till I decided to simply leave the tip pressed down a second or two past the click and I get the perfect amount of heating.

This is exactly what I do with my 16mm coil. Always 2, sometimes 3 seconds past the click and it's just right :tup:
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder

mario

Well-Known Member
I can say that the 14mm coil does not need any extra time on my Ti tips. When it clicks it is ready. I get a sold 4 or 5 HUGE hits off of mine.

Now I will say that my Shadow M takes the longest of all my caps to heat. Normal SS is faster than the Shadow SS. Which I think has something to do with the coating, the only issue is that there is a lot of guessing when it comes to the shadow of when it is 'done'. If I go with the click there is a good chance that it won't even be close to done, other times it is a bit faster than that. I have put my shadow aside and use my lighter with that one, I just don't like how it performs in the IH.

My FD is functioning amazingly! I use it every day for probably a total of 10 to 15 caps on the weekends and slightly less on the weekdays. It performs perfectly every time. I installed a cut up business card between my coils and battery casing and there is no chance of a connection forming there. For all waiting, I say again, it is worth it. I love mine and take it everywhere with me.

I have a 2019 M on pre-order, I can't wait to try it out with the FD.

Also I bought a new cap and tip for my Omni and I have ONLY ever used the cap and tip with the FD, I have never used a lighter with it. You would be amazed how clean the entire vapcap stays when it isn't being hit with butane. Also the cap itself is a beautiful golden sheen without any scoring. The tip itself is starting to blue all the way down the bowl on the outside, I noticed it a while back but it is spreading down the tip and it looks gorgeous. So if you have a 'new' cap and tip I suggest putting one aside that only gets used with the FD or any IH and see the difference in the performance of a cap that is clean all the time. :)

Anyways, just wanted to post some of my thoughts again. :)
 

testymctest

Well-Known Member
i use the lg hg2s as well. This combo with the 14 mm ran very hot for me no wiggle room and often resulted in charring and uneven heating or combusting.
after MrC swapped out the coil for the 15mm it has been PERFECT! Heats quick, get separation of clicks and usually get 3-4 heat cycles to clear bowl. and potentiameter now has room to work. i used a plastic bread tab for the fix took 2 mins.
 

mario

Well-Known Member
So science question for everyone.

Is there something in the coating of the Shadow M that would make it resistant to the heating of an induction heater?

Anecdotal observations so far:

- Titanium tip, filled full bowl. Insert to click, take out immediately. Huge hit, clouds flavor everything.

- SS Tip, filled full bowl. Insert to click, take out 1 second after click. Huge hit, clouds and flavor.

- Shadow tip, filled full bowl. Insert to click, take out 1 second after click. Wisps at best.
- Second hit, hold 3 seconds after click. Modest hit, not worth writing home about.
- Third hit, hold 5! seconds after click. A hit I would expect to be on par with the first hit from the Ti tip.

And then I empty out the abv since I'm sure I've used everything in there by holding 5 seconds after the click. And it is almost GREEN still. Like nothing had happened in the bowl nearly at all. I don't even think that it heated the material until I held it in for 5 seconds.

So what is the deal? If I use the shadow with a lighter, it performs as I would expect, hard hit, lots of clouds.

EDIT: I should note I have the 14mm coil, so it should be pumping loads of power into the thing at 5 seconds past click.
 

started@52

Well-Known Member
So science question for everyone.

Is there something in the coating of the Shadow M that would make it resistant to the heating of an induction heater?

Anecdotal observations so far:

- Titanium tip, filled full bowl. Insert to click, take out immediately. Huge hit, clouds flavor everything.

- SS Tip, filled full bowl. Insert to click, take out 1 second after click. Huge hit, clouds and flavor.

- Shadow tip, filled full bowl. Insert to click, take out 1 second after click. Wisps at best.
- Second hit, hold 3 seconds after click. Modest hit, not worth writing home about.
- Third hit, hold 5! seconds after click. A hit I would expect to be on par with the first hit from the Ti tip.

And then I empty out the abv since I'm sure I've used everything in there by holding 5 seconds after the click. And it is almost GREEN still. Like nothing had happened in the bowl nearly at all. I don't even think that it heated the material until I held it in for 5 seconds.

So what is the deal? If I use the shadow with a lighter, it performs as I would expect, hard hit, lots of clouds.

EDIT: I should note I have the 14mm coil, so it should be pumping loads of power into the thing at 5 seconds past click.
Have you tried swapping caps?
 
started@52,

mario

Well-Known Member
I don't have more than one shadow cap since it is the one that came with the shadow and you can't buy extras. So i can't test it on multiples of those.
 
mario,

started@52

Well-Known Member
I don't have more than one shadow cap since it is the one that came with the shadow and you can't buy extras. So i can't test it on multiples of those.
Just wondering if a non shadow cap works fine on that tip.
 
started@52,

Obsessed 2

Well-Known Member
I don't have more than one shadow cap since it is the one that came with the shadow and you can't buy extras. So i can't test it on multiples of those.
Try putting on a regular cap on the shadow tip. This may be what @started@52 was asking. Your observations are intriguing to say the least.

Edit: looks like we replied at the same time.
 
Obsessed 2,

caseball2051

Well-Known Member
028 FD still kicking and working great.

I was able to install my own "bread basket heat sink" but I missed the post.

Would it be possible to get email updates for important safety information like this?

I wonder if there's any others I've missed...
 

mario

Well-Known Member
Just wondering if a non shadow cap works fine on that tip

That is a good idea, I will have to try this when I get home tonight. It will be good to know what part isn't absorbing the heat the way the others do. The cap is probably a good part of it.
 

mario

Well-Known Member
Now this I find interesting. Do you get good hits right after the click? Mine clicks at a decent time, but there doesn't seem to be a lot happening in the bowl.
 
mario,

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hi all, a brief update on everyone's favorite FD issue...

Power relay MOSFET failure update


As most fo you know, MOSFET failures continue to affect some FD owners, and I'm very eager to find both the true cause(s) of the issue and a solution, if possible.

To better understand the issue I've been reading up on common MOSFET failure causes, which, let me tell you, is a *great* way to cure insomnia!

Of the several causes I've read about, the likeliest so far seems to be inductive voltage spikes, which are large swings of energy that occur when an inductive process is stopped suddenly. All of that energy needs to go somewhere, and unless one gives it a specific path in which to drain, it can slam back into the MOSFET and cause damage to its structure. Sometimes the returning energy spike is strong enough to kill the MOSFET, but many times nothing bad happens, at least externally. This matches the particulars of our MOSFET failures as I understand them, so this sounds like a promising cause.

This writer had a good description of the issue, as well as some potential fixes:

https://www.daycounter.com/Articles/Inductive-Voltage-Spike.phtml

Anyway, that's my current hypothesis for the likeliest cause of these failures, that or something similar - there are several energy-spiking phenomena, and I think it may be one of these.

More testing ahead, hopefully resulting in a fix

Now that I have a viable hypothesis, as well as some potential fixes to explore if that hypothesis proves true, I would like to take some readings and confirm (or disprove) that hypothesis. Science, but more Sherlock-like ( :sherlock: ) than mad-scientist-like ( :science: ).

This issue should be relatively straightforward to see with a decent oscilloscope, and all but impossible without one. My current oscilloscope is barely an oscilloscope ( :shit: ), and not up to this task at all, so I've purcha$ed a better oscilloscope. It should be here Friday or Monday, and then* I can get a better look at what is going on inside the heater as it operates.

*Once I get it set up and calibrated. And climb a short but probably steep learning curve. And probably several other tricky things about which I am so far blissfully unaware. Sigh...:worms:

If the issue does turn out to be a voltage spike, there are several relatively easy ways of addressing that with diodes or other small components (discussed in the article linked above), including a few that might be easy to retrofit.

That's where things stand with this issue at the moment. I hope to know more within a week or so.

I am going to continue to build and ship heaters while I'm continuing to research this issue, as it seems premature to stop production at this point, but I'm aware that some of the heaters I am building now may be affected by this issue. I don't know if this is the right call - there are arguments for both sides... :shrug:

I am hopeful, though, that this new oscilloscope will help me identify the root cause and come up with a fix for the issue ASAP. :tup:

That's your mid-week Fluxer update.

Cheers,
:leaf:
 
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Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
Now this I find interesting. Do you get good hits right after the click? Mine clicks at a decent time, but there doesn't seem to be a lot happening in the bowl.
I have been using the regular cap since those tests, but tonight I will test out both and let you know.
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
I thought the Caps were all the same and the Tips and Screens are SS or Ti ???
Yeah, the shadow has a coating or something on it that seems to work differently. When I tested them, I used both a Ti tip and ss tip, and the click took the same amount of time on both tips. The only factor that changed the click time seemed to be the type of cap.
 

mario

Well-Known Member
So I did a test with my cap, and I think I have identified the problem. My shadow cap doesn't go down NEARLY far enough. My normal cap sits all the way down on the shadow tip but the shadow cap does not. I think when I put the shadow cap on the shadow there is a pocket of space between the top of the inside of the cap and the bowl. Which would cause it to not heat the material properly.

That is my current hypothesis on the issues I saw. My Shadow cap produces terrible vapor and a terrible experienced when used with either type of tip.
 
mario,
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