Those aren't all the exact parts from the HN-02, but they are equivalents of each part, without the enclosure or LED strip
Hex-Nail (HN-01) - RIP
- Thread starter HexNailAva
- Start date
Those aren't all the exact parts from the HN-02, but they are equivalents of each part, without the enclosure or LED strip
scalescliffs
cashed
The SSR in my HN01, just for reference, is an Omron G3NE-205T.
Elemen0py
Well-Known Member
I'm just tentatively chilling and watching for now. I don't really have a choice because I'm in Australia and MaxVapor doesn't have a 220V model and Hex-Nail is- well... Hex-Nail is what it is.
I do know what I want, though. I want a deluxe enail controller with tons of functionality and external connectivity with a big-ass screen (preferably a touchscreen) that's reliably stable. A fully functional and stable HN-O1 would be ideal, but that's not something that exists.
Either way, as soon as someone a whole lot more tech capable than I figures out how to reproduce such a thing then I'll get to ordering and soldering. I'm more than happy to fabricate my own chassis. I might do something cool with a local red morrel or jarrah burl or even commission something in stainless or aluminum if I have to. If MaxVapor drops a 220V model before that happens I'll probably invest in one of those in the mean time.
Either way, I'd be keen to get crafty once someone figures it out. I might even look into building a unit into my desk or even into my wall. Who knows.
I'd like to thank anyone who's putting the work in to figure this thing out. It'll be great if we can come up with some open source options to DIY our own custom systems, whether it's with Hex-Nail or MaxVapor architecture.
Great work, guys and girls. Keep it up.
I do know what I want, though. I want a deluxe enail controller with tons of functionality and external connectivity with a big-ass screen (preferably a touchscreen) that's reliably stable. A fully functional and stable HN-O1 would be ideal, but that's not something that exists.
Either way, as soon as someone a whole lot more tech capable than I figures out how to reproduce such a thing then I'll get to ordering and soldering. I'm more than happy to fabricate my own chassis. I might do something cool with a local red morrel or jarrah burl or even commission something in stainless or aluminum if I have to. If MaxVapor drops a 220V model before that happens I'll probably invest in one of those in the mean time.
Either way, I'd be keen to get crafty once someone figures it out. I might even look into building a unit into my desk or even into my wall. Who knows.
I'd like to thank anyone who's putting the work in to figure this thing out. It'll be great if we can come up with some open source options to DIY our own custom systems, whether it's with Hex-Nail or MaxVapor architecture.
Great work, guys and girls. Keep it up.
Elemen0py
Well-Known Member
Well call me Leia and throw me in a gold and burgundy bikini...You seem to be a kind of soulmate. Have nearly the same ideas
Elemen0py
Well-Known Member
Because I don't have the "credentials" to pull off a bikini and my beard would get caught in the neck restraint. Lets face it, nobody wants to see that.so why not if you'd look as nice as she at least?
Mr. Whitewall
Well-Known Member
Ok so my HN-01 has bricked 
I keep getting the "This site can't be reached" message screen, no matter how many times I reset.
Didn't change any setting, on router or unit. Everything worked perfectly until now.
Come to think of it, Skynet had been having a wonky temp control for the past week; managed to combust about 3 times in a row in two different days. Was pretty confused at first but now I see maybe why.
-I had a few questions for all you electronics savvy folks out there before proceeding with a totally reckless and unprofessional home fix of my own
:
Does changing the SD card fixed this issue for anybody?
I was also told by Ava not to open the HN-01 by myself, as it required some special procedure to disassemble.
Does anybody know how to proceed, if applicable? Or do I just have to unscrew and be a little careful with the screen?
...To sum it up, I just carefully unscrew the top, dig the old SD card and simply replace it with the new one am I correct?
Thanks!
I keep getting the "This site can't be reached" message screen, no matter how many times I reset.Didn't change any setting, on router or unit. Everything worked perfectly until now.
Come to think of it, Skynet had been having a wonky temp control for the past week; managed to combust about 3 times in a row in two different days. Was pretty confused at first but now I see maybe why.
-I had a few questions for all you electronics savvy folks out there before proceeding with a totally reckless and unprofessional home fix of my own
:Does changing the SD card fixed this issue for anybody?
I was also told by Ava not to open the HN-01 by myself, as it required some special procedure to disassemble.
Does anybody know how to proceed, if applicable? Or do I just have to unscrew and be a little careful with the screen?
...To sum it up, I just carefully unscrew the top, dig the old SD card and simply replace it with the new one am I correct?
Thanks!
buckhakeesah
Well-Known Member
You were cautioned probably due to all the hot glue in there holding things together. You may break the wood case opening it up. Hopefully some of the folks on this thread with technical chops can help get you back up and running.
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
buddingglasshead
Well-Known Member
Ok so my HN-01 has bricked
Didn't change any setting, on router or unit. Everything worked perfectly until now.
Come to think of it, Skynet had been having a wonky temp control for the past week; managed to combust about 3 times in a row in two different days. Was pretty confused at first but now I see maybe why.
-I had a few questions for all you electronics savvy folks out there before proceeding with a totally reckless and unprofessional home fix of my own
Does changing the SD card fixed this issue for anybody?
I was also told by Ava not to open the HN-01 by myself, as it required some special procedure to disassemble.
Does anybody know how to proceed, if applicable? Or do I just have to unscrew and be a little careful with the screen?
...To sum it up, I just carefully unscrew the top, dig the old SD card and simply replace it with the new one am I correct?
Thanks!
Yep your MicroSD card is bricked. Mine had wild temp issues until I swapped the microSD card. The only way to save it would be a new MicroSD card with the OS. You can't just swap the SD card, it has to have the OS and there is no way (that I know of) to obtain the OS elsewhere.
It shouldn't be an issue opening up the unit, but do be careful. I can't imagine anything being connected to the actual backplate that is meant to just cover... but who the fuck knows with the shoddy construction.
I'm not too familiar with Linux and have been waiting for @JigMelon 's guide to copying the MicroSD card. I could figure it out, but it's more of a time constraint than a knowledge issue. A how-to guide would fix that for me.
I'm sure he's just as busy, if not busier though.
Mr. Whitewall
Well-Known Member
Yea, I did have a cosmetic issue with the case... Some components seemed to be too hot/too close to enclosure and caused cosmetic damage to the outside. But is seemed to be ok after some beeswax.
Hear! Hear!
Why?
No idea!
Never got an actual explanation.@buddingglasshead thanks for the heads up.
I don't mind waiting as long as Skynet rules the temp waves again. I ordered an RDK-300 to tide me over, but would be very grateful if there could be any help in the future.
@Alex3oe Thanks for your reply!
Yes, just googled it and seems simple enough... Shame I don't have Linux! 
I see it's possible to do it in Windows too?...So solutions are pretty limited at this point are they?
Thanks all for pointing in the right direction though!
Lets see when @JigMelon or any other charitable soul comes up with a fix then.
@Alex3oe Thanks for your reply!
...So solutions are pretty limited at this point are they?
Thanks all for pointing in the right direction though!
You can always boot to any linux distribution LiveCD to have access to that environment.
@Mr. Whitewall @buddingglasshead @Alex3oe @psychonaut
Or, you could use Bash On Windows, or Windows Subsystem for Linux. Both work great, and much of my work is done in Ubuntu on Windows (my gaming desktop is the only thing with Windows on it lol).
I would strongly advise against using dd if you are not familiar with it. When using dd you need to make sure you are using the most appropriate settings for reading from or writing to the device, to ensure not only the ability for it to be restored reliably, but also that you are performing the least amount of read/write operations as possible. SD cards are EXTREMELY volatile (which is why I suggest backing yours up), and blindly copying from and writing to your SD cards with dd is a great way to shorten their lifespan. If you are not familiar with dd and *nix filesystems, I strongly suggest using Clonezilla, either via a *nix environment or via one of the many popular boot CDs which contain it. If you select to backup the entire disk, rather than individual partitions, it will automatically determine the appropriate settings for your device, and that will increase your chances of writing the backup to another card successfully. Clonezilla has the ability to create and restore backups. The only reason many use dd instead of relying on a suite of software such as that provided by Clonezilla is that dd is a built-in feature on most distributions (operating system versions), and if you know how to use the other often-built-in features to determine the optimal settings, you can save yourself the time and bandwidth to attain Clonezilla, as well as the bloat of installing additional software/libs if installing locally rather than using a live environment.
Assuming the same SD card is NOT in all units, I would advise against other's suggested values to use with dd. This is why I decided to use and suggest Clonezilla in the first place, since the only way to automate the calculation of proper values for use with your SD card would be using a bash script, which would essentially be doing the same thing as Clonezilla. No need to reinvent the wheel.
There are fantastic tutorials out there teaching you how to use dd properly, but if you are unfamiliar I suggest just using Clonezilla. It works great, consistently, and requires zero customization other than selecting the device to backup or restore to.
I don't think it's necessary to create a tutorial for Clonezilla, but if someone would like me to just let me know. This is the general overview, and essentially what the tutorial would be:
1. Download the official Clonezilla Live image from here - https://clonezilla.org/downloads.php
2. Use Etcher to write the Clonezilla Live image to a USB drive that you do not mind overwriting (ALL DATA ON THE DRIVE WILL BE LOST) - https://etcher.io
2b. I suggest Etcher because it is cross-platform (including OS X) and extremely simple. If you have any issues due to the UEFI/BIOS configuration on your computer, you may want to use the official manual method instead, after writing the appropriate partition table to the drive - https://clonezilla.org/liveusb.php
3. Reboot your computer and let it boot into the USB drive. You may need to visit your BIOS/UEFI settings at boot to enable USB booting or increase the priority of USB drives. You also could use the Boot Disk Selector feature if your BIOS/UEFI has that. On most modern computers, it should work fine out of the box by plugging in and rebooting.
4. Proceed with using Clonezilla as per their official documentation - https://clonezilla.org/clonezilla-usage/clonezilla-live-usage.php - The "general introduction" link should have all of the info you need, but there is more documentation if needed. You will have the most success saving and restoring Disks, rather than Partitions (may be referred to as Parts in Clonezilla), but feel free to experiment if you have extra SD cards at your disposal.
When using Clonezilla, make sure you are extremely cautious when selecting the disk to restore to; it is extremely easy to overwrite your computer's main storage media.
Unrelated: I officially have all the parts to build a HN-02 now, but I can't guarantee I'll get around to doing so or documenting it at a specific time. I expect to have it done by next Monday at the latest, but it's also possible that it could be as soon as tomorrow afternoon or as late as October. I have a lot going on over the next few weeks, as well as other distractions, and I may choose to spend my extra free time doing something less involved. I'll let you know when I have it built and working, but the idea is to include a wiring diagram and a tutorial for preparing a second SD card (much of which will be taken from the steps above). There shouldn't be much you need to change on the filesystem other than renaming the device (so you can control both via the webapp), but I haven't yet tested this. Also worth mentioning that they may have a list of unique identifiers which they could use for access control with the webapp, blocking unofficial units, but I wouldn't expect this from them. Considering that they kept the webapp server up, I think and hope that they are on our side in regard to this community effort, and are only keeping quiet for legal purposes.
Or, you could use Bash On Windows, or Windows Subsystem for Linux. Both work great, and much of my work is done in Ubuntu on Windows (my gaming desktop is the only thing with Windows on it lol).
I would strongly advise against using dd if you are not familiar with it. When using dd you need to make sure you are using the most appropriate settings for reading from or writing to the device, to ensure not only the ability for it to be restored reliably, but also that you are performing the least amount of read/write operations as possible. SD cards are EXTREMELY volatile (which is why I suggest backing yours up), and blindly copying from and writing to your SD cards with dd is a great way to shorten their lifespan. If you are not familiar with dd and *nix filesystems, I strongly suggest using Clonezilla, either via a *nix environment or via one of the many popular boot CDs which contain it. If you select to backup the entire disk, rather than individual partitions, it will automatically determine the appropriate settings for your device, and that will increase your chances of writing the backup to another card successfully. Clonezilla has the ability to create and restore backups. The only reason many use dd instead of relying on a suite of software such as that provided by Clonezilla is that dd is a built-in feature on most distributions (operating system versions), and if you know how to use the other often-built-in features to determine the optimal settings, you can save yourself the time and bandwidth to attain Clonezilla, as well as the bloat of installing additional software/libs if installing locally rather than using a live environment.
Assuming the same SD card is NOT in all units, I would advise against other's suggested values to use with dd. This is why I decided to use and suggest Clonezilla in the first place, since the only way to automate the calculation of proper values for use with your SD card would be using a bash script, which would essentially be doing the same thing as Clonezilla. No need to reinvent the wheel.
There are fantastic tutorials out there teaching you how to use dd properly, but if you are unfamiliar I suggest just using Clonezilla. It works great, consistently, and requires zero customization other than selecting the device to backup or restore to.
I don't think it's necessary to create a tutorial for Clonezilla, but if someone would like me to just let me know. This is the general overview, and essentially what the tutorial would be:
1. Download the official Clonezilla Live image from here - https://clonezilla.org/downloads.php
2. Use Etcher to write the Clonezilla Live image to a USB drive that you do not mind overwriting (ALL DATA ON THE DRIVE WILL BE LOST) - https://etcher.io
2b. I suggest Etcher because it is cross-platform (including OS X) and extremely simple. If you have any issues due to the UEFI/BIOS configuration on your computer, you may want to use the official manual method instead, after writing the appropriate partition table to the drive - https://clonezilla.org/liveusb.php
3. Reboot your computer and let it boot into the USB drive. You may need to visit your BIOS/UEFI settings at boot to enable USB booting or increase the priority of USB drives. You also could use the Boot Disk Selector feature if your BIOS/UEFI has that. On most modern computers, it should work fine out of the box by plugging in and rebooting.
4. Proceed with using Clonezilla as per their official documentation - https://clonezilla.org/clonezilla-usage/clonezilla-live-usage.php - The "general introduction" link should have all of the info you need, but there is more documentation if needed. You will have the most success saving and restoring Disks, rather than Partitions (may be referred to as Parts in Clonezilla), but feel free to experiment if you have extra SD cards at your disposal.
When using Clonezilla, make sure you are extremely cautious when selecting the disk to restore to; it is extremely easy to overwrite your computer's main storage media.
Unrelated: I officially have all the parts to build a HN-02 now, but I can't guarantee I'll get around to doing so or documenting it at a specific time. I expect to have it done by next Monday at the latest, but it's also possible that it could be as soon as tomorrow afternoon or as late as October. I have a lot going on over the next few weeks, as well as other distractions, and I may choose to spend my extra free time doing something less involved. I'll let you know when I have it built and working, but the idea is to include a wiring diagram and a tutorial for preparing a second SD card (much of which will be taken from the steps above). There shouldn't be much you need to change on the filesystem other than renaming the device (so you can control both via the webapp), but I haven't yet tested this. Also worth mentioning that they may have a list of unique identifiers which they could use for access control with the webapp, blocking unofficial units, but I wouldn't expect this from them. Considering that they kept the webapp server up, I think and hope that they are on our side in regard to this community effort, and are only keeping quiet for legal purposes.
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Mr. Whitewall
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the fast replies @JigMelon / @psychonaut ! Much appreciated.
Looks like a fun challenge! Nothing too complicated and a nice skill to have, copying SD cards.
I was actually looking to back some old photo collections up too!
Thanks again folks! Will report any new developments.
Much appreciated.Looks like a fun challenge! Nothing too complicated and a nice skill to have, copying SD cards.
I was actually looking to back some old photo collections up too!
Thanks again folks! Will report any new developments.
Quick heads up to anyone that purchased parts based on my list from the previous page:
The SSR I listed is the obsolete older iteration of the SSR in my HN-02. There was additional information which I didn't notice until removing more super glue. The one that I linked will work just fine, but it is not an exact replacement and may perform differently. I'm going to proceed with building my unit with the part I listed previously, but this is the part in my official unit:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Automation-and-Safety/G3MC-202P-VD-DC5
The part is G3MC-202P-VD DC5, which is the version certified by UL, CSA, and EN at a rating of 12v. Keep in mind the input voltage is still 5v, and the picture on this page is not of the part you are ordering; it is a different variant. Other suitable choices are G3MC-202P-DC5 (no certification, so only rated by manufacturer, rated at 5v, costs less due to no third-party certification) or G3MC-202P-VD-1 DC5 (insulated version of G3MC-202P-VD DC5, rated by UL/CSA/EN at 24v). All of these should work the same as long as you ensure the input voltage is 5v DC (that's the DC5 tag, in this case). The rating is what it has been tested to withstand; not what it runs at. The wiring is the same regardless of the variant you buy, including the obsolete model I previously linked.
If anyone is looking for other SSRs to use, if you are using the IRM-10-5 power supply then you can use just about any SSR with zero cross, 5v DC input, 2A output load, and 100-240VAC output voltage. Just note that by using a different SSR, your saved profiles from the original unit will not be accurate and will require adjustment if you would like them to be. Different units have different profiles. Also, whether or not you use a part with zero cross makes a large difference. Whether or not that is for the better or worse depends on the environment and other factors. Zero cross will always be more stable, but it can (though not always) have increased latency. If you intend on using features like Glob Mode, I would make sure you get a zero cross version, to prevent potential noise from interfering with the hexnaild's operation. Without looking at the source (which we do not have), we don't know how it reacts to noise.
Maybe someone with more electronics or IC experience could provide more info and correct any inaccuracies I may have written. I'm very inexperienced with this, but I tried to obtain a decent understanding before writing this post.
I took apart my HN-02 today completely; removed all the glue, and some connections. I sketched a wiring diagram with the original parts, and when I make a digital/clean version I'll post it. I'm also going to rewire my original so it's less of a mess... I'll update you guys as there is progress.
The SSR I listed is the obsolete older iteration of the SSR in my HN-02. There was additional information which I didn't notice until removing more super glue. The one that I linked will work just fine, but it is not an exact replacement and may perform differently. I'm going to proceed with building my unit with the part I listed previously, but this is the part in my official unit:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Automation-and-Safety/G3MC-202P-VD-DC5
The part is G3MC-202P-VD DC5, which is the version certified by UL, CSA, and EN at a rating of 12v. Keep in mind the input voltage is still 5v, and the picture on this page is not of the part you are ordering; it is a different variant. Other suitable choices are G3MC-202P-DC5 (no certification, so only rated by manufacturer, rated at 5v, costs less due to no third-party certification) or G3MC-202P-VD-1 DC5 (insulated version of G3MC-202P-VD DC5, rated by UL/CSA/EN at 24v). All of these should work the same as long as you ensure the input voltage is 5v DC (that's the DC5 tag, in this case). The rating is what it has been tested to withstand; not what it runs at. The wiring is the same regardless of the variant you buy, including the obsolete model I previously linked.
If anyone is looking for other SSRs to use, if you are using the IRM-10-5 power supply then you can use just about any SSR with zero cross, 5v DC input, 2A output load, and 100-240VAC output voltage. Just note that by using a different SSR, your saved profiles from the original unit will not be accurate and will require adjustment if you would like them to be. Different units have different profiles. Also, whether or not you use a part with zero cross makes a large difference. Whether or not that is for the better or worse depends on the environment and other factors. Zero cross will always be more stable, but it can (though not always) have increased latency. If you intend on using features like Glob Mode, I would make sure you get a zero cross version, to prevent potential noise from interfering with the hexnaild's operation. Without looking at the source (which we do not have), we don't know how it reacts to noise.
Maybe someone with more electronics or IC experience could provide more info and correct any inaccuracies I may have written. I'm very inexperienced with this, but I tried to obtain a decent understanding before writing this post.
I took apart my HN-02 today completely; removed all the glue, and some connections. I sketched a wiring diagram with the original parts, and when I make a digital/clean version I'll post it. I'm also going to rewire my original so it's less of a mess... I'll update you guys as there is progress.
Hollabackatcha
Well-Known Member
I am not sure of the legality of it but i'll ask anyway. What are the chances someone out there has a HN-01 SD image to test my DIY HN-01 build?
Ferrusbuelker
Well-Known Member
This has been sitting in a drawer for months as has my hex but I’m assuming this what you need
https://imgur.com/gallery/tW5eCy6
I can’t seem to insert picture so sorry about the link
https://imgur.com/gallery/tW5eCy6
I can’t seem to insert picture so sorry about the link
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Hollabackatcha
Well-Known Member
LOL that is an image but what I meant by image was ISO of the SD
I would gladly create an ISO and return the original if someone was to offer.
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Ferrusbuelker
Well-Known Member
Just letting you know I’m not real attached to it......
pxl_jockey
Just a dude
Time for a DM @Hollabackatcha you gotta do this! I had no idea anyone was that close on a DIY build, that’s very exciting! Please please keep the sad people like me in your thoughts, I don’t have a lot going on, obviously since I habitually check this extinct thread. Can the intrepid members of FC make their own super kick-ass controllers without a hot glue gun and doll furniture? Tune in tomorrow for more “HexNail Hospital”! 