Custom CARBLESS VapCap Ti stems

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
While I'm waiting for the titanium tubing to arrive ,
I'm reaearching about the titanium anodisation thing.

Recently I'tried the so called "Type II anodisation" or AMS2488 Ti anodising.

http://anodizetitanium.com/titanium-anodizing-tips-and-tricks/ams-2488-type-ii-titanium-anodizing/

It's quite different in many aspects from the "traditional " color anodising.
And kinda more tricky .

Anodic oxidation of titanium can be
identified and classified on the basis of the oxide characteristics:

- a “traditional” anodizing, whose result is a compact oxide
layer, up to a few hundred nanometers thick, which
often lends the metal a surface color.

- a more onerous process, which leads to a further thickening
of the oxide layer and its crystallization: the process
is referred to as Anodic Spark Deposition (ASD), or
Plasma Electrolytic oxidation (PEO), or MicroArc Oxidation
(MAO) because of the development of plasma
discharges
on the surface.

Anodic spark deposition (ASD), also called microarc oxidation or plasma electrolytic oxidation,
diverges from traditional anodizing not in the procedure but in the process
parameters necessary to produce the microplasma state,
which are far more onerous than those required by the color anodizing procedures.
At first, a uniform amorphous oxide layer is formed on the titanium anode,
whose thickness increases with increasing feeding voltage ( ~ 2 nm /V ) and
creates a compact dielectric barrier that prevents ionic current from further
flowing through the oxide itself. If the breakdown voltage of the oxide is exceeded,
the barrier is overcome and the oxide keeps growing (dielectric breakdown).
Since the oxide obstructs the current flow, the whole available current concentrates in few oxide weak
points, as defects or localized stress states, where the dimorphology electric barrier is less effective: the electric fields reaches extremely high values in these points, so as to cause atom ionization and a localized microplasma state, with kinetic temperatures up to 7700 °C !!!
The dielectric breakdown is accompanied by a cracking noise and by the rise of small electric discharges defined as white tiny sparks, which last a few milliseconds and seem
to move along the whole surface
, creating small electric arcs,
as sparking moves from one weak point to another;the discharges become greater as the process moves forward. The high energies involved in sparking causes the damaging of adjacent oxide areas which were still intact, and therefore cause the process to extend over the whole anodic surface.

Of course it's just amazing to see it happening in front of your eyes.
( Maybe I should try and upload a vid about it.You should see this while it's happening ! )

The part being oxidised (rather than anodised) that way has a powdery looking white coat ,
when the process is finished.That is usually removed with bead-blasting the surface.
I did it with a rotary felt wheel and some polishing compound.

At the pic below ,a ti tube oxidised to AMS2488.The oxidation was almost totally removed on the right with some 400 grit sandpaper ,to get a first evalutaion of the oxide layer.
Notice the white powdery coat.Underaneath thaty is the thick gray oxide layer.


And eventually I discovered someting about the Arizer Air.
Comes in a weird -but really nice- brownish-graish hue ...
Why on earth is named "Titanium" ?
It's the "mil-spec" gray .

A 4th gen Ti tip oxidised to "mil spec gray".Notice deep inside,between the fins
the whitish -powdery coat ,that the felt wheel was unable to reach :






**The stem is anodised with a new variation : the "Gel-Ti-dation " .
A thick hydrophillic ,gel-like ,layer of a metastable type crystallic titania ( mostly anatase )
is formed.Still at experimental stage .More info on a future post.

Cheers.
 
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V-apE

☮☮☮
Hi Beautifull peeps of F.C:wave:

A couple of days ago i got a very nice present from Stardustsailor
and i decided to put on some pics,the pics are made by a inexpensive phone but i did my best.

I tried it with the condenser/tip of the "M" and everything fitted like a glove.

It is just a piece of art, the tube is slightly wider then the original stem of the "M" which is nice.
also the texture of the stem is helping a lot while heating and turning.

The only thing i don't get is that the originals don't have a carbhole.
Well i've been vaping for only 2 years so maybe someody can enlighten me.:D
I did tried it to cover up the carb but then i have to pull sooooo hard that my
eyes almost popped out.:hmm:

I like the stem a lot and i think with the prices stardustsailor is asking he WON'T get rich!:disgust:
I guess he is making them out of love for Ti:love:

Thanks again sir for this beautifull gift...very happy!:clap:

Ron

8x0z2t.jpg

n5rehy.jpg

2rh00p4.jpg

b88jex.jpg
 

DirtyD

Well-Known Member
While I'm waiting for the titanium tubing to arrive ,
I'm reaearching about the titanium anodisation thing.

Recently I'tried the so called "Type II anodisation" or AMS2488 Ti anodising.I'm

http://anodizetitanium.com/titanium-anodizing-tips-and-tricks/ams-2488-type-ii-titanium-anodizing/

It's quite different in many aspects from the "traditional " color anodising.
And kinda more tricky .

Anodic oxidation of titanium can be
identified and classified on the basis of the oxide characteristics:

- a “traditional” anodizing, whose result is a compact oxide
layer, up to a few hundred nanometers thick, which
often lends the metal a surface color.

- a more onerous process, which leads to a further thickening
of the oxide layer and its crystallization: the process
is referred to as Anodic Spark Deposition (ASD), or
Plasma Electrolytic oxidation (PEO), or MicroArc Oxidation
(MAO) because of the development of plasma
discharges
on the surface.

Anodic spark deposition (ASD), also called microarc oxidation or plasma electrolytic oxidation,
diverges from traditional anodizing not in the procedure but in the process
parameters necessary to produce the microplasma state,
which are far more onerous than those required by the color anodizing procedures.
At first, a uniform amorphous oxide layer is formed on the titanium anode,
whose thickness increases with increasing feeding voltage ( ~ 2 nm /V ) and
creates a compact dielectric barrier that prevents ionic current from further
flowing through the oxide itself. If the breakdown voltage of the oxide is exceeded,
the barrier is overcome and the oxide keeps growing (dielectric breakdown).
Since the oxide obstructs the current flow, the whole available current concentrates in few oxide weak
points, as defects or localized stress states, where the dimorphology electric barrier is less effective: the electric fields reaches extremely high values in these points, so as to cause atom ionization and a localized microplasma state, with kinetic temperatures up to 7700 °C !!!
The dielectric breakdown is accompanied by a cracking noise and by the rise of small electric discharges defined as white tiny sparks, which last a few milliseconds and seem
to move along the whole surface
, creating small electric arcs,
as sparking moves from one weak point to another;the discharges become greater as the process moves forward. The high energies involved in sparking causes the damaging of adjacent oxide areas which were still intact, and therefore cause the process to extend over the whole anodic surface.

Of course it's just amazing to see it happening in front of your eyes.
( Maybe I should try and upload a vid about it.You should see this while it's happening ! )

The part being oxidised (rather than anodised) that way has a powdery looking white coat ,
when the process is finished.That is usually removed with bead-blasting the surface.
I did it with a rotary felt wheel and some polishing compound.

At the pic below ,a ti tube oxidised to AMS2488.The oxidation was almost totally removed on the right with some 400 grit sandpaper ,to get a first evalutaion of the oxide layer.
Notice the white powdery coat.Underaneath thaty is the thick gray oxide layer.


And eventually I discovered someting about the Arizer Air.
Comes in a weird -but really nice- brownish-graish hue ...
Why on earth is named "Titanium" ?
It's the "mil-spec" gray .

A 4th gen Ti tip oxidised to "mil spec gray".Notice deep inside,between the fins
the whitish -powdery coat ,that the felt wheel was unable to reach :






**The stem is anodised with a new variation : the "Gel-Ti-dation " .
A thick hydrophillic ,gel-like ,layer of a metastable type crystallic titania ( mostly anatase )
is formed.Still at experimental stage .More info on a future post.

Cheers.
 
DirtyD,

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
The only thing i don't get is that the originals don't have a carbhole.

Mouthpulls is the answer.The same way used when smoking joints/splifs/blunts/etc.
"Suck" the vapor using your facial muscles and not by using your diaphragm.
Using your diaphragm and a carbless VC ,will not get you anywhere.
On the other hand ,using your facial muscle power with a carbless VC will
get you everywhere you wished to be ! ;)
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/custom-carbless-vapcap-ti-stems.25324/page-2#post-1165044
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/custom-carbless-vapcap-ti-stems.25324/page-2#post-1165044

Cheers.
Glad you liked the lab-rat ...
:science:

Rich ?
It depends on what exactly is considered as " wealth" .

Power to rule ?
Money ?
Time ?
Wisdom ?
Family & friends ?
Happiness ,maybe ?

...Or maybe even the ability to create happiness out of nothing ?


Cheers.
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
These days,while I'm waiting for the new Titanium tubing to arrive ,I'm doing a
rather extensive research & experimentation around Titanium anodising.

Learned a lot .
About how to achieve maximal brightness and/or saturation ,
how to make the oxide layer thicker and harder ,in order to withstand wear
and quite a lot of other stuff.
Really is an art with quite a few secrets .

Definately not a simple thing ,afterall.

Still,I 've made a new type of electrolyte ,
also now using a double anodising technique and quite
a few things and stages are added in the whole procedure.
The result ,of course, is more vibrant colors and more durable oxide layer.

For those interested to learn something more about color anodising of Titanium :

https://www.researchgate.net/public...m_Effect_of_electrolyte_and_colour_durability

https://www.researchgate.net/public...rence_colors_of_thin_oxide_layers_on_titanium

https://www.google.com/patents/EP1199385A2?cl=en

https://www.researchgate.net/profil...hnical-aspects-to-biomedical-applications.pdf

Cheers.
 
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Baron23

Well-Known Member
@stardustsailor - beautiful work. I particularly like the bark design anodized and then with the a bit of sanding to take it off of the salients. Really nice.

One point I would like to make, and I understand we are all different with different wants and capabilities, but I do not "mouth pull", which is basically how most folks smoke a cigarette, but rather suck direct to my lungs.

With George's latest Ti tip, with the widened lans on the tip and the cuts at the end to allow airflow, this direct draw tech works just fine.

I do also use this tech with the glass OG, but agree with @KeroZen that the draw resistance is VERY high....so I feather the carb in order to not pass out from lack of oxygen, but still direct draw and get great vapor. But it is a PIA, admitedly.

I have a @phattpiggie carbless stem on a latest gen Ti VC tip and it works GREAT.

Very nice work, @stardustsailor. Very nice.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@stardustsailor - beautiful work. I particularly like the bark design anodized and then with the a bit of sanding to take it off of the salients. Really nice.

One point I would like to make, and I understand we are all different with different wants and capabilities, but I do not "mouth pull", which is basically how most folks smoke a cigarette, but rather suck direct to my lungs.

With George's latest Ti tip, with the widened lans on the tip and the cuts at the end to allow airflow, this direct draw tech works just fine.

I do also use this tech with the glass OG, but agree with @KeroZen that the draw resistance is VERY high....so I feather the carb in order to not pass out from lack of oxygen, but still direct draw and get great vapor. But it is a PIA, admitedly.

I have a @phattpiggie carbless stem on a latest gen Ti VC tip and it works GREAT.

Very nice work, @stardustsailor. Very nice.

Thank you for the kind words.
Still you got me a little confused here ...
:shrug:

"but I do not "mouth pull", which is basically how most folks smoke a cigarette, but rather suck direct to my lungs"

but ...

"I have a @phattpiggie carbless stem on a latest gen Ti VC tip and it works GREAT. "

Now ,you 've a carbless stem that works great ,without doing mouthpulls ?
:hmm:
Like to provide some details on that ?

Cheers.
:peace:

Edit : As you 've already stated : we are all different with different wants and capabilities.
Myself found it to be quite a trouble ,maybe even a hassle ,trying to find the carbhole after the
heating click.Moreover ,when I was letting the carb uncovered ,the vapor was too diluted with air ,at least for my taste.Tried then a smaller diameter carbhole ,but still too diluted.
I used to smoke for 22 years. Vaporising using a VC without a carb ( mouthpulls ! ) is not
so alien technique to me.To be honest I've almost forgot about it ,by using electronic vapes & vaporisers ( for herb and for e-liquid ) .
Still ,a carbless VC offers me the greatest pleasure ( and effect ) of all the rest vaporising devices.
For me (and I'm aware that I'm not the only one around ) a carb hole is a totally useless thing
and maybe even more than that : a real hassle .
I want my vapor thick ,strong .
And spend those precious seconds from "click-to-click "to be inhaling vapor.
And not trying to find where the F#%^ is that f#$^% carb hole !

Lastly ,I very much dislike the " provoking " or " suspicion arousing " or even " musical instrument " aesthetics of a carbed stem .
( A dude once asked if it is some kind of a fancy two-tone dog whistle for hunting signals !!! )

No,sir.
No need and no place for a carb hole at the stems I make.
The few fellas using them ,know much better what I mean .
;)


Cheers.
 
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Baron23

Well-Known Member
Now ,you 've a carbless stem that works great ,without doing mouthpulls ?
:hmm:
Like to provide some details on that ?

Not sure what details there are to tell....its a Phattpiggie carbless stem on a DynaVap latest gen Ti tip and I draw direct into my lungs like I have since I started using cannabis 50 years ago (shit, I'm getting old...sigh).

Here is a pic of it:

MUNr5vK.jpg
 

Prolusio

Well-Known Member
I draw direct into my lungs like I have since I started using cannabis

Nice stem @Baron23, that green acrylic is one of my favourites. I do pretty much the same thing with my draws I think, never really liked mouth pulls as much.

The way I do it is just create suction/pressure by drawing into my lungs, and wait. I don't keep forcing it (which leads to that trying to suck a golf ball through a straw feeling) I just make comfortable pressure and wait for the vapour to come.

The air intake on the vapcap is really small without a carb, so you can only get so much air through. It's not difficult to create air flow but it is very difficult to force more air through past a certain point.

You can test this by drawing on a vapcap with no herb in it and listening closely. You'll notice it doesn't take much force to start the air flowing, but relatively quickly you'll get diminishing returns no matter how hard you suck. I consider that my effective draw range and just make sure never to force my hits.

I get large hits click to click every time I use my caps this way. If I need fresh air I just loosen my lips and draw around the stem, works just as well as a carb for me! Just requires a little patience; sometimes I don't feel anything for a few seconds. But after that short delay, oh man..:whoa::D

Love that there's so many ways to use the Vapcaps! Such a well designed product.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Interesting remarks. Allowing to control the air flow rate is I think the only way to enable precise temperature control. It took me a while to be able to phrase it precisely.

With conduction vapes with feedback loop temperature regulation, the temperature is always at or below the set temperature. They are able to usually control pretty well how hot the bowl is, but if you draw too fast you can overcome the conductivity rate of the bowl material (usually ceramic or stainless steel) and thus the temperature of the material inside the bowl drops below the set-point.

Back then there were already two schools: open air flow like the Ascent or restricted air flow like the Solo (to name the two extremes) With the former it was nearly impossible for non initiated users to get good hits, it required quite the self control to create the regulation, otherwise nearly all of them drew too hard or fast and got only wispy vapor. With the Solo it was the inverse, the vape created the right amount of restriction such that it was easy to get vapor, if you drew too fast the vape would restrict you so you were always in the right zone. But of course this came at the cost of comfort with many people finding the restriction unbearable (the famous golf ball through a straw comparison)

Fast forward to convection vapes and we find ourselves in a comparable situation excepted it's reversed: they tend to be at or above the set temperature, because they can not adapt to the flow rate because they don't measure it (some vapes have draw detection but to my knowledge none has any real air flow rate sensor, as it's either pricey and/or impractical)

We also have open air flow vapes like the Milaana, where you have to create the restriction yourself, either by forcing to slow down your draw or by letting the screen clog a bit. At the other end we have the CFV / SwiftPro which have the exact same characteristic as @Prolusio described above: if you force too much you're not getting more, so in a way they ensure you are always drawing inside a very narrow rate band.

And this is the key! The SwiftPro is the only temperature regulated full convection vape that I have that is able to create the "level depleted" effect that I have with my Ascent and other properly regulated conduction vapes (i.e. you can set a given temperature level, deplete completely the level until vapor production almost stops, then as soon as you raise the temperature to next level, production restarts, proof of excellent regulation)

Even with the Project or the iHeat using TC mode with good mods and/or firmware, it's the same as with my manually regulated convection vapes: it's is possible to extract the entire bowl at any given temperature setting provided you get enough time... because naturally you will draw harder and longer as the session advances and this is what creates the "automatic temperature stepping" effect. It's not the (very limited) amount of conduction created by the SS or glass bowl (proof is, I get the same with @Alan's wood stem in the iHeat and the bowl is almost cold at the end) (or well, more precisely it's the inverse, the bowl mass is robbing less and less heat from the system over time, but it's not that, the effect is minimal)

Without draw rate sensing, even with very good temperature regulation at the coil(s)/heater (and in fact the better the regulation the truer the following is) the temperature at the material will rise the harder you draw. The heater will keep heating more and more air at the right temperature (if properly regulated it doesn't drop much or at all, especially if you give it ample power like we do) thus more hot air is available, the bowl material receives more calories, extraction temperature gets higher and this is what gives us the temp stepping (@Shit Snacks this should put words on your "just a number" remark)

So if we want true temperature regulation with (on-demand or not) convection we need either:
1) use flow rate sensing on top of temperature sensing in a closed loop
2) have the vape create a flow rate restriction (at the cost of people complaining like for the CFV)
3) force ourselves to always draw at the exact same rate and strength (at the cost of requiring a technique and being not user-friendly and noobs complaining they got nothing or that it's not working)


PS: (3) can be eased by using so much power that the heater can't be overwhelmed, allowing to draw at nearly any rate (like the Tubo, but at the cost of excessive power consumption) but it doesn't solve the "temperature regulation at the bowl location" aspect

PS2: with conduction the important variables are known: it's based on the surface area, and the heater is fixed so it becomes a constant. With area, coef of conductivity and temperature, we have all important parameters. With convection we are dealing with a moving mass of air, but we just monitor the temperature and not the flow rate, it's evident that we are missing half of the equation.
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Very interesting stuff !

Here's what I think it happens when using a carbless stem with a VC tip.

Ok,yes two ways .
One way the diaphragmatic inhale ,where you create a negative pressure using your diaphragm &
in case of prolonged/deep inhales , the rib side muscles as well.In our case this technique can not be fully
performed .The high air path restriction of the VC tip & cap combo won't allow for the "smoothness"
and moreover for high velocity incoming air current.It steals the "freedom" of that technique.
You need a carb hole to set you free ,at this case.
;)

The vapor path from the other hand, at the case of carbless VapCaps is quite straightforward and without any restriction.
Since the vapor path has a relative short distance ( herb => mouth ) and taking into account
that there's not really a high solid partcle filtration provided by the CCDs,the vapor can be hot and
harsh due to solid particles .

Here's where the good ol' "mouthpulls" come into play.
Using the lips and /or chicks (as muscles ) a negative pressure inside the mouth is created .
It's many times more powerful that the negative pressure than can possibly be created by the diaphragm
&/or the ribcage muscles.

Thing is that there's actually no real "duration" of inhaling.
Rather ,they are short / brief "bursts" of negative pressure ,that fill
the volume of the mouth with vapor.
Which in turn,gets " saliva filtered" where most solids stay stuck in the mouth cavity
and of course there's a significant decrease of vapor's temperature .Heat is absorbed
by saliva,the tongue,the teeth and rest of tissue of the mouth cavity.

Still,one can control ,up to a certain degree ,the velocity of the incoming air of these short /brief
bursts ( puffs ) of negative pressure .One can go by puffing repeatedly plenty of brief and strong puffs
,or can go with only a couple or few more ,slower,"relaxed" and more "deep " puffs.

The former provide a rather cool & fresh aromatic vapor (never starts to be really hot ) and can be combined with heating high on the cap ,but vapor lacks of "body" ,
:haw:
while the latter provide a more "heavy" ,hotter and "full of body" vapor
and can be combined with heating low on the cap for that extra ...thing.
:zombie:

Yes,it's a totally different way on using a VapCap.
Has it's con's and pro's .
And as always ,it remains a matter of taste.

Cheers.
:peace:
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Have some updates to announce .

1) No more custom orders.There's no time to satisfy the needs.
I will be making some stems and those fast and/or lucky enough may be able to get them.

There are three members on a waiting list.
Soon,they will receive a pm with some offerings.

2) Because most-if not all-have non-anodised tips and I really do not
won't the anodising to become the " main theme" of a stem's aesthetics,
I'm changing totally the styles.More info later on.

3) Payments are done in Euros from now on.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A friend "donated" back an old stem I'd made for him
and "updated" that stem for him,according to my new style(s).

Some pics,just for you to get a slight peek & a faint idea of what is to come ...









Cheers.
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
That is so beautifull and i like the 2 crowns and SS mouthpiece. ;)
"SS mouthpiece " ?
No stainless steel used.Only titanium.
But I guess that you 've already knew that one !
;)
Yes,from now on the stems are going to have bands,rings ,grooves,more textures
and LESS anodised surfaces as also LESS hues available( only hues after yellow.Cause of thicker oxide layer.Thus,durability. ).A plain (non-anodised) Ti or SS tip will "fit" aesthetically like a glove .

More to come soon.

Cheers.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
It's sextremely satisfying to watch your development process. Please keep sharing your experiences because I read them with a lot of pleasure.
Yeap,will do.

Can't go for mass production (and to be honest I do not want it ).
I need the time to evolve the art and constantly keep refining the pieces made .
I want them to be real pieces of art.Jewellery for the VapCaps.

Cheers.
 
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Drexciya

Homage to the Deepsea Dwellers
Nah, I just copied the href from the stuff you posted. If they don't have a ubb variant of the code tag it will probably not work on a forum
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Would love to see you do a blk knurled one! But you don’t have a cnc machine do you?

Knurled Andromeda Green would get some galactic woot! woot! :tup:


No need for a CNC machinery to do knurling .
Actually it needs an ordinary metal-working lathe (which is out of my reach for the moment )
and a knurling tool for lathe .


I really want to buy myself a small metal-working lathe .
Maybe in the near future,if my economics will allow for that . .
Cheers.
 
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